Recent content by spike95

Yes, some of it came off. No, the flaws underneath the chrome obviously did not come off. this was my first time to buy an expensive new tool that needed to have stuff polished off of the chrome.

Yep. Me having an issue with the finish on a tool is a relatively minor thing in the grand scheme of things. It was just about important enough to ask about on a tool forum, but not important enough to get in online battles over. No need for online shouting matches. Furthermore, my comment was...

I’ll go you one better. Rush… Also, they make a lot of the SnapOn boxes there.

I had a relatively minor issue with a tool… and this turned into a geo-political trade warfare thread. How about tone it down guys. Japan makes great stuff. The US makes great stuff. Germany makes great stuff. Canada makes great stuff. Even Taiwan makes great stuff. Let’s bring it down a notch.

I never saw your question asking me that. The first things I saw were little divots underneath the chrome, so looks like flaws were there before chroming. Not a huge deal breaker, but I didn’t expect to see that. The flaws on the 17mm were on the finish. I tried to see if they would scratch off...

I literally opened them this afternoon (Sunday). I didn’t want to go raise hell with the manufacturer or seller if that was just par for the course, so I came here to the best source I have for tool knowledge and experience to ask around before I did so. I will definitely be getting in touch...

Yes, they seem extremely comfortable in my hand. I paid $249 for the set. Everywhere else was around $258. So close enough to full price in my book.

I can see how some of the flaws are requiring some scrutiny to see, but the third wrench I pulled out (the 17mm) doesn’t require a close look to see flaws all over the finish. I’m kinda shocked at that one. I’m going to contact Wright directly and see what they have to say. I’m really wondering...

EDIT: I was able to polish out the surface marks on the 17mm, so I’m feeling much better about that. There are still the little divots in places underneath the chrome that look more like some kind of machining issues on several of the other wrenches. Not my favorite, but not really a big deal. I...

I know that this thread is ancient, but I just have to thank you for this tip. That material is so strong for its size. I tried it today, and it worked fantastically. Saved me some money, and more sturdy than most of the tools available for sale.

Once again, the bit that worked was many years old and never sharpened. The bits that did not work were BRAND NEW and never used before.

I am only trying to get to 1/4” hole. I center punched and then started with a brand new (very first use) 7/64” Snap On bit planning to step up to 1/4. These were the nicest ones they sell on the truck. I have never had an issue getting through anything like this before. I swear it is like...

I do like that idea of starting with a die grinder. I bet that would do the job on this. Does anyone have any specific bits that they can recommend that are better/harder than Snap On solid cobalt ones?

The Snap On bits I used were brand new and sharp. My coworker’s bits were old and never sharpened. I always use a punch before I start drilling any kind of metal. It was not able to get to the base metal on this bumper. I also used cutting oil and my drill on low speed. I have not tried...

Hi Guys, I am having an issue at work. We just got in some new trucks and need to drill holes in the bumpers to mount the license plates. My coworker started trying with his set of Blue Point bits, and wasn’t getting anywhere. I tried with my Milwaukee cobalt bits and some cutting oil. I could...