Recent content by spy604

About 31"

Real quick calculation with a 5x Safety factor says on a 20' span you can load it up with 3880# in the center.

I just got the Torque app for my phone (android, don't know if its on iOS). it was a few bucks. Then I bought a bluetooth OBDII plug on amazon for 15 bucks. It will read any sensor you want, data-log, clear codes, etc. It can even use the accelerometer/gps in your phone to calculate mpg, 0-60...

And its way easier to remember the drill size for 1/2-13 is 27/64"

The big question is what is the material of the threaded rod? grade 2/5/8? if you put 150 ftlb (1800 inlb) then T=kFd k=.18 for steel on steel lubricated 1800 = .18*F*.625 F = 16,000 lb of tension If the rod was grade 5 and everthing else could handle the force T = .18 * 53125 *.625 T =...

How did you fasten the top to the frame?

2400 is certainly the lifting capacity, after the safety factor. get a grade 5 nut. i wouldnt trust a grade 2 nut for anything, especially in a lifting application

it all depends on the grade of the nut. I would use a grade 5 or better in a lifting application, which would be fine for lifting 2400lb

The manual for the welder might say how many kW it uses at the rated load. For example, a Hobart 187: Rated Output at 30% Duty Cycle 130 A at 21.5 VDC Amps Input at Rated Load, 60 Hz 230 V 20.5 A kW 3.88 dont know what price you pay per kwh, around here its about $.07 so if you ran it an hour...

I wouldnt worry about a few holes in the top web for bolts, the beams are sized for deflection, not for strength, they are very low stress. Thats one of the advantages of steel. Just dont put it out on the edge and you'll be fine. As far as the ceiling loading is concerned, you could look at...

The table takes into account the fact that there is living space above that beam, so that includes walls, floors, people walking, etc. I did a quick calc on the additional weight for the lift, and strength wise it is completly safe, and if you were to lift 2000#, it would defect an extra .22"...

If you wanted a 14" beam, the lightest they make is a W14x22, which is grossly oversized. Nothing wrong with that, its just way more than you would need, safety-wise. If you thought you needed more room, there a W16x26, but now we're back at 16" and 26#, where you could save yourself some time...

You lost me with the coping. If you are going to upsize the beam, you gotta do the whole beam. Well you dont have to, but thats a whole lot of work and steel is cheap. While OP hasnt responded yet, the W8x28 would be a good choice. If the joists were 2x8, we are back to the 16" tall that he had...

Youre absolutly right, they are sized for economy. A W12x14 has a moment of inertia of 88.6in^4, so we need to stay above that to maintain our deflection. To go to a 10" beam, you would need a W10x19 - I=96.3 or a W8x28 - I = 98.0 None of this takes into account using it to lift anything. I...

I have seen that too, and it works. The real problem with that for OP is that theres no room for a trolley if its done like that.