Recent content by srracer

I've moved mine several times all by myself with nothing more than my Suburban, an engine hoist and utility trailer. By unbolting the top from the spider (4 bolts) you can use the engine hoist to place the entire head and ram in the back of the suburban or pickup. Brace it and strap it down...

There is no neutral in a 220v circuit - just 2 hots... -Chris

Yeah - I wanted the slatwall (our store has tons) but they want $50 / sheet. I'll keep offering $15 until they get desperate enough to say yes.. -Chris

Thanks Mike!

Here are some high resolution photos of the finished floor: http://picasaweb.google.com/slideruleracer/GarageFloorEpoxyJob# I've started moving some of the tools back in and just need to finish furring out the concrete walls and putting up drywall before I can get the cars back in. Even...

I've used purple degreaser with good luck in the past: - Pour on the degreaser liberally - Wait a little while for it to loosen the oil - Scrub with an acid brush - Rinse/Wash with pressure washer - Repeat 1-3 times as necessary If its really deep, the oil-eating microbes may work well , but...

Well, the floor is repaired and finished and it looks great. Unfortunately, my repaired areas are noticeable, as the decoflakes didn't quite settle the same way as when I did it the first time - particularly in the areas where I tried to blend the repairs into the floor... the color coat was...

Unless you're grinding right on the floor, the grinding wasn't a problem for me with my earlier epoxy floor (I just finished my new floor so I haven't really tested it yet). As for the welding, I did get burn marks on the old rustoleum epoxy floor from welding slag that ended up on the floor...

Lighting/Electrical first because you want that stuff run behind the drywall. Everything else you really want on the other side of the drywall so its much easier to add later. If you;ve got the lighting/electrical worked out, then the next thing I'd do is the floor and then the compressor...

Hi Roger, I'm sure your choice will work out fine for you, but this was an email I received from Eric regarding thickness: "We don't offer a 1-Gallon kit at this time. As far as flake coverage goes, it is all a matter of opinion. Reducing the flakes is the best place to save money. A thicker...

At the time, the minimum thickness being tossed around was .015" and Eric said they really preferred .020". The kits were only being offered in 3 gallon kits (at least that I was aware of), so 3 kits only got me to .018" thickness. I went with 4 to get me to Eric's recommendation and the extra...

At the time, the minimum recommendation was 15 mils if I remember correctly. I wanted the floor to be stout since my intention was that if $200 more now meant that it would hold up better to my abuse and I didn't have to do it over again, then it would be well worth it. I don't regret going...

Fred/Eric, Since I waited for the epoxy to cure, its now been 2 weeks since the color coat went down. I can't really wipe the floor with Acetone without compromising the flakes.....do I need to worry that the clear coat will not adhere well considering that there is relatively little color...

So back to the deco flakes for a minute... Wolverine says .01 lbs per square foot gives medium coverage. Initially I had ordered 20lbs (in the spring), but I kept thinking that I'd probably want heavier coverage. So I ordered an additional 50 lbs from Fred to get me to their 'medium...

When I put the bondtite down, it didn't go down as glass smooth as I expected it to. It concerned me a little at the time, but in retrospect, it is of little importance. You may see little bubbles when it is wet, but they smooth out by the time it dries. I did get a few e actual bubbles...