Recent content by switchgear12470

R49 in ceiling, R15 in walls Yes

Most of the energy going to heating my garage will be lost through the slab, which is a considerable energy sink up here in Zone 6. I was thinking that some sort of floor covering that has a slight air gap could offer a small thermal break and insulating value. Something like the DMX floor...

Is your slab insulated? The manual J app I used indicates 40% of my heat loss is through the floor lol. The concern with my zone is that -7F isn't just some one off winter storm, it could be most of January. I've been reading up on Senville units, they are the exact same as the Blue Ridge units...

Nope!

Hey fellas, OP here just giving an update. I'm going to start my garage project in June- insulation, paneling, electrical. I have two weeks off between jobs that I'm gonna spend trying to get the garage as finished as possible. So I AM sticking with a mini split, and it's actually going to...

I'm also going to do a 12x16 and put in a manual garage door, my thinking being that if I ever sell the house it could be advertised as a third garage stall. The limit in my jurisdiction is 200sqft before it requires building permits. As much as I'd love to do one of those taller structures for...

Honestly, I have no idea how the framing was attached. There is no evidence of anchor bolts for framed walls and none of the voids are filled to the brim with grout. I think I'm gonna get that 24" SDS bit and make sure the courses are well anchored to the pad, and then do what you recommend...

It's block on pad, I assume the pad is thickened edge but I haven't verified that. To clarify: are you saying you would epoxy in vertical rebar every third cell down into the pad? I have a beefy hammer drill but I'm not sure how to do that without removing courses, that would be one insane...

Only the cell with rebar is grouted, but only about 50% filled. The spacing on the rebar appears to be approximately every 4ft.

On my property there is a concrete pad with two courses of concrete blocks leftover from a single car garage that was demolished by a previous owner. I believe it is 50s era. I already have a 2.5 car garage and would like to build a shed on the skeleton of this old garage to store yard tools and...

As governments start to push consumers away from natural gas and towards electric appliances I wonder if we will see something comparable to UL spring up for HVAC, and then municipalities will start requiring "listed" units to be installed for permitting.

It's hard to keep track of which rebrands are which! But from my research, Midea and Gree are two of the best of the Chinese heat pump manufacturers, so regardless and as you point out it's still going to be a well made unit.

I've settled on a mini split. After consideration, my main concern with running natural gas to the garage is that it would require a licensed plumber to do if I want to go the permit route- which I do, just to stay above board. The new Blueridge XS6 model, which I believe is a rebadged Gree...

SEER is only for cooling efficiency, which I do not care about. HSFP2 Region V is a more telling number for heating efficiency in MN. Every ceiling mounted forced air heater I've seen so far is vented.

I'm originally from Michigan, but have lived in Kentucky for the last 13 years. I can confidently say I don't need the mini split for cooling!