Recent content by tankd0g

I guess with proper drainage I should be all right, mine is actually going to be higher than the surrounding driveway because I have to drive up slightly into the garage.

Finally! I am in the finishing stages of my garage, I bought a trench drain to put across the door, the instructions say to pour concrete around it 4" below and at least 6" all around. I feel like there is no way that a 12'-4"x6" block butted up against my floor is going to stay put after the...

Thanks, I have an email into Selkirk support, I'll see what they say about it.

Maybe I installed it wrong but it is a rectangular support box with a round sleeve that slides over the pipe to keep the insulation from touching the pipe. You can't really see in that picture but the way I have it installed, the flange of the attic insulation shield sits on top of the 2x4...

It's a round cylinder in a square hole so there's 3 or 4 sq. inches at the corners above the decorator trim ring. It's really not the best design in the world. There's a gap where the shield touches the chimney also that I'd have to silicone to be air tight but that might be necessary to vent...

I'm just putting the finishing touches on my garage and I realized I'm getting a massive draft out of the gaps around the insulation shield of the Selkirk chimney. I didn't tape the vapor barrier to it and it just has roxul insulation pushed around it. The easiest thing to do would be spray...

Makes sense, thanks.

Thanks, I have not purchased a valve yet because I wasn't sure it would work this way. Do you have to put your circulation pump before the cold side T in order to push water into the valve?

We had one for years, I don't recall the band, it was very high maintenance just due to the filtering requirements and required shop air to run. the model we had used a preheater and we had to cut the oil 50/50 with bunker C or it wouldn't run reliably because of all the water and brake fluid...

Thank you for your concerns but the heater is more than capable of doing the job, it's rated for use as a radiant heat source and it even tells you how to hook up a hydronic loop in the manual. My only question relates to the fact that I do not have an external cold water source. The schematic...

I only have 240v/40A availabe in the garage, otherwise I would have gone electric and not had the expense of a chimney and oil tank. Even though electricity is quite expensive here at $0.1465/kWh, most hydronic setups here are done with electric hot water tanks or tankless domestic "boilers"...

Well as I said in my post, I have been in the shop that is running 60-70F water from an electric hot water heater and it's perfectly comfortable to work in, in the middle of February (-20C). The overall air temp is not actually 70F, that would be too hot to work in, but that is the temerature...

when I layed out the loop, the calculator said 140F but I don't think it cares if your floor cracks or not... By condensation do you mean condensation in the flue because the burner will not run long enough per cycle?

It's a domestic hotwater tank with an oil burner, so I assume it's designed for cold water intake exclusively, so I don't think I need to worry about going the other way and keeping the intake temperature up.

I have Roth tanks and I didn't install their fancy float pickup system, I just have a copper hard line to about an inch off the bottom, I have a water seperator in the oil filter. I don't have any water in my tank yet but I'm told that if it is outside, the water in the bottom may freeze and...