Recent content by Teufelshund1097

I think overall, you may be right. Snap on toolboxes, overall, have withstood the test of time. They command a high price, and generally retain their value pretty well. There are reasons for that and being under-built would not come to mind. While I do think brand recognition and psychological...

I recently acquired a Baker-Case machinist chest with a National 56 E-1 lock. If anybody has the matching key please post a pic for me. I'm trying to make my own and I've gotten close but there's a minor detail I can't quite figure out. Thanks in advance.

Any idea what HPS gets for a seal kit these days?

I had no luck beyond what I had already tried. Everything is solid and tight so I’ll probably just leave well-enough alone. The oiler works so I’ll be able to apply lubrication periodically.

So it is an oil ball. There’s got to be almost as much pressure on this pin as the lift arm pivot; seems like a grease fitting would have been justified. As far as the retaining screw - by my rough calculation there is possibly a .250 ring left, just over 22 thousandths thick - holding the pin...

I’m getting around to tearing down my S4 (finally) and have a couple of questions for those who know… I’m trying to remove the pivot pin that attaches the lifting rod? to the lift arm? — not sure about the terminology but I’ll attach a picture for clarification. I had no luck removing the 1/4”...

Try Firefox - that's what worked for me.

Mine works well. I think they’re particularly useful when you need to get way underneath - because they do all the pumping at the end of the handle’s range of motion. Raising one wheel of your truck from under the axle would be one example.

Full strength is roughly 24 hours. If you’re going to wait that long the accelerator isn’t going to make any difference. It works on the front end when you need it to set up quickly. Regardless, I shouldn’t have used the jack and placed any pressure on sealant until the next day.

That’s a great idea; superglue or possibly even something like JB Weld should do the trick. Give it a light hone afterwards and maybe try an oversized seal. I went back into mine some time ago and adjusted the nut at the bottom of the pump piston until I got just the lightest drag - as Hiball...

Hey TTLF; did you ever sort the plunger seal out? Hiball mentioned a slightly oversized cup seal... Mine still leaks; I have been adding hydraulic fluid but I am getting tired of the puddles on the floor ;) I have not been receiving notifications for this thread but it looks like you haven't...

Haha - I noticed this about the jack also. I wonder if I/we have the packing too tight on the release valve? I think a thicker rod down the length of the handle would be an improvement.

Good work; on mine that is a c-clip, which isn't much easier to get off... I just use a piece of 2x lumber inside or on top of the saddle - keeping the grain perpendicular to the weld seam. Some day I might get a fancy adapter for use with pinch welds ;)

It's hard to imagine why the threads on that nut would be stripped. When you talk about working on the old American (or any other) equipment I guess that's part of the adventure - trying to understand, and in some cases undo what was done by others who were there before you...

I originally installed mine from the top as well; #38 was easy enough to get off. I must have installed the piston seal cup too loosely, however, because I had leaking from the top when I used the jack. The nut at the bottom of the piston was originally staked, I believe. It was much easier to...