Recent content by The Tool Tyrant

Parts book shows part # 7 (3/8-16 x3/4") torque at 30 ft.-lbs. I would try loosening all 4, then retorquing them in a diagonal pattern (10:00-4:00-8:00-2:00) and see if that cures the leak. If not, use a thin sealant like 'GASKET CINCH' between all shims after cleaning them of any oil.

https://www.beko-technologies.us/en-us/products/condensate-technology/condensate-drains/ I have one on our shop compressor and has operated flawlessly for over 20 years.

That *****. It must have been a tough piece of rust that held on at 250 psi! Better you found out now!

Thanks to OldMachineNut & MacMcMacmac for sharing their knowledge regarding the OLD Quincy's being splash lubed. I learn something new here daily!

Well Hank, I checked Quincy's literature library again and the oldest ROC for the 212 is still ROC 25, so it appears they haven't found any additional info for the ROC 17. On the later ROC model, the oil pump is located where your hydraulic unloader is and the unloader is around the corner on...

Sorry to hear this. You seemed so pumped (no joke) when you scored that gem. I hate to say it, but unless you find a buyer that knows QR series Quincy's value, you're probably not going to get what it's really worth. Being as the receiver is only 30 gallons, it's really not sized for the pump...

Rent a cherry picker?

Welcome Matt, from beautiful San Diego California! My Grandfather came from northern Italy, close to the Swiss border.

Don't forget ME!

I believe Firebrick is correct in what he is describing. Since the new shed rear wall is inline with the existing wall, the CORRECT design is basically shifting the existing hip/ valley to the right. Being as the new shed adds overall width, the ridge will naturally be higher than it is...

I understand and being as you have standard colored concrete on both, is a non-issue. If you would have had a different color or finish on the approach, you could have still placed the expansion joint where you have it, along with adding rebar dowels mid-height of the garage slab to connect the...

Tarmy's center photo is a prime example of what I mentioned in my post #4 above. If the garage slab would have been formed to the rear side of the front wall, the concrete approach would have been continuous to the door. This is very noticeable if you have anything other than standard grey...

To add to ConCretin's post, if you're planning on colored concrete /stampcrete/ pavers etc on the ramp, stop the garage slab BEHIND the garage door stem wall. By doing so, when your door is closed, you'll have a continuous surface to the door rather than 8" +/- of plain concrete butting your...

You're overthinking this. What you want to build is VERY, VERY common...nothing new, nothing at all complex.

Unfortunately, I'm not a CAD guy...at all, but you can get the idea in this pic. At the point where that 'broken hip' intersects with the existing ridge is the point where the opposite valley would start and terminate at the inside corner of the building offset. Hopefully the pic and my...