Recent content by The Wolff

Central Tennessee---40 x 60 pole barn w/12 foot walls and a 12 x 60 covered lean-to as well. Insulated walls, 6" concrete floor, 300 ft gravel road to lead up to it and a 24 x 47 foot drive pad in front cost me about $85K total. I am very happy with the construction. They used scissor trusses...

Shelbyville, TN....about and hour east of Nashville.

I've been on this forum for years and learned allot from other members but I have never posted. I built a 30 x 50 all metal building in Florida a few years ago but recently relocated to a 16-acre 1900's farm in Tennessee. I have the original barn that needs to be restored but right now I have...

"Hurricane Deductible"....a special rider for us that live in hurricane zones. Your deductible is usually 5% of the value of the house....higher if you chose a cheaper policy and raised the deductible. On a $250K house...the first $12,500 is on you at 5%....

I just got done going through a bad topcoat finish. Mine was dusting and showing areas of small crumbling. The concrete contractor totally blew me off and blamed the concrete company when it was really his fault. To make a long story short, I hired another guy who ground it down and flooded...

Did you repair the spots that gave you a problem? My floor is in 10 x 10 sections separated by the expansion cuts. If I recover a whole section, does the epoxy need to be completely stripped from that section or just sanded and cleaned before reapplication? Thanks

After a "professional" epoxy install, I have several areas of epoxy that appear wrinkled for lack of better words. The wrinkles can be moved with a fingernail so they are obviously soft. My question is...can epoxy be spot repaired or does the whole area need to be removed and re-applied?

Since you are talking Sika...I just had my floor epoxied and some ran into the joints....can I still apply Sika or will it not adhere where epoxy entered the joint? Thanks,

I'm just about to start electrical and lighting. I had a huge delay due to problems with the "top cap" of my concrete floor. It was poured during a huge rain storm and power-troweled way too long. This left it in a dusting condition. I had to have it ground, hardened and coated.....took forever.

I'm in Florida and had a 30 x 50 just built a few months ago. Carolina Carports was the install crew as well. I have never been happier than I am with these guys. They did the whole building in two days----with three overhead doors and factory insulation. The building is dead on level, every...

There are several areas that are still slightly sticky/tacky...small but still a problem.

My concrete guy poured my 30 x 50 slab 8-months ago about two hours prior to us having 3" of rain. He power troweled it for hours and covered it the best he could but I wound up with a smooth slab but a very soft top cap--you could dig a groove into it with a key alone! It was dusting very bad...

How would you tell if you have this weak cap concrete before you start coating?

This is really nice! I like the arts & craft design with the posts! Great Job!