Recent content by tintoptexan

It's been a while, but I finally finished the shop. Here's a photo with Emma Bell and Gertie out front.

About the only thing I can add to this discussion is that when the Sheetrock is horizontal there are unsupported seams between the studs. If there are any hard bumps on the wall at the location of the seam, it could crack the bed joint compound. When vertical, all of the seams are on a stud and...

I went metal weld up 50X60 w/3-12 foot wide OH doors and 2 personnel doors, 12 foot side walls and a 4/12 pitch on the roof. Slab and building was $12.00 per square foot. Plumbing, electrical, spray foam insulation etc. was all additional. Metal prices in your area will affect the cost a little...

10-4 to that. We do a lot of soil work in my line of work. I've been with the US Army Corps of Engineers, Construction Division for 27 years. We have a tendacy to overkill sometimes, but always with good intentions. To me, construction is not much more than a series of problem solving...

I failed to mention, this is for back fill. If you want to see what the soil you are placing the fill on then you will need borings or density tests on the undisturbed area. On our sites we excavate and go back with compacted select fill.

Any lab should be able to guide you. Typically it is; 1.Have a proctor run on the soil to determine the maximum density. 2.Place the soil in 6 to 8 inch lifts and compact each lift. 3.test each lift using the sand cone method or nuclear density. Preferably the first test a sand cone and the rest...

"ive seen some real bad advice here already. you almost NEVER need to add moisture to dirt for good compaction. 99% of the time, you want to get the moisture OUT of the dirt for good compaction." This is a quote from an earlier post that probably needs clarification. There is actually "Optimum...

Keep in mind that reinforcement does not keep the concrete from cracking. It keeps it from shearing and seperating. Nothing can replace proper compaction in the proper lift thickness and the soil at its optimum moisture level. What type of siol are you dealing with? If it is high in clay...

Is 4" concrete thickness sufficient? Seems a little shy. Joe

Keep in mind, the masonry as is requires "NO" maintenence. If you attempt to stain, paint or whatever, you will probably start something you don't want to. I made the mistake of preping and painting a brick wall one time, and wound up painting it again in 3 years and then again in another 3...

"I had the grinder for 12 hours, 10 of which was spent behind it. " Is that you behind the grinder? or is that the better half running it? Credit where credit is due! Back to the finish. I put a hard steel finish on my concrete and plan to work on it as is, however that finish you put on looks...

Here's a shot of the Spray Foam I used and how it looks on the walls. I plan to spray it white for better light reflection. I is 1" thick and really sealed up the building. After getting quotes any where from $1.25 to $1.95 per square foot, I found a person that came down to $.95 per square...

To combat the condensation problem, I had 1 inch foam insulation sprayed top and side walls. Seems to have done the trick. I'm amazed how it seems to tighten the whole building up. Heres a photo of the work in progress. Joe

It's a 12/12 pitch and 19 feet wide overall. The door is not exactly in the center due to the 5 foot offset on the left. that makes it about 9+ feet to the peak. Useable clearance upstairs is reduced only the thickness of the rafters which is 6". Useable dimensions upstairs would be 27 feet by...

That second floor really added useable space. I did something similar to a small garage for my wife to park her pick-up. [/IMG]