well i have a very similar as rated gun here in the uk @350f t lbs
it did as you say removed lug nuts off the van (17mm) by not before sitting there for about 20 seconds beating on it with the wrench and the land rover lugnuts just laughed at it
I was miffed but noted a mate had a dual hammer...
Knife edge race pullers for wheel bearings
An pneumatic Vac bleeder
And a nice battery charger that does testing battery's alternators and load testing as well as charging and recovering batteries
Urgh bondo.
A light skin of p38 over some panel beaten welding is ok but what you have posted is a bodge good and propper.
That rust will be back from under the bondo quickly
Cut rust out and weld in good metal but if painting worrys you I guess weldings out the question ?
A bondo bodge...
theres an 8mm 1/4 drive socket in my van engine bay at the moment. Dropped it off the end of an extension when i was changing the battery and it dropped down into the bay but not onto the floor.
can i find it - can i **** . Have not driven the car since other than back and forth while braking...
needed a new box. it just got too much(i spannered on push bikes professionally so my tools just for that fill a stack on their own if you actually want to organise them) and now ive been adding to my car tools with a number of nice to have speciality tools as im no longer scared of **** like...
Its been a while since ive been about - works just been heavy as hell.
18 months later still going strong - just been for its second MOT after12 months on the road and 6 months standing as i was working abroad - but it sailed through.
Goes to show do it right first time and it'll stand you...
500 miles in
after a slight hickup where the starter solenoid died the day after mot.... DAMNIT
its averaging 28mpg(thats a uk gallon) brim to brim on the first 2 tanks of fuel.
goes like a stabbed rat from 0-40 - does 70 on the motorway eventually and still wants to pull.
turns you inside...
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-handlebar-holder-hbh2/rp-prod17706?gs=1&gclid=CMTDgOu5rcYCFRTKtAodXZsO0Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
you throw one of them on when working with it straight up to stop the bars turning.
works really well and easy. mines was much cheaper than that mind you.
We used to use a a rope from the celing on our building station but for any real work efficiently a stand is much better imo.
Think of it as a ramp vs a jack and stands. It can be done on a jack and stands but most jobs are easier on a ramp with the car up in the air...
i would make it from nylon and still use rubber in the jaws to protect.
I would not make/buy a clamp from metal your only going to damage componants and tubes.
even on our park workshop* stand the clamp head was nylon with rubber inserts although thee mechanicals were all metal.
* 10 years...
over the moon mate..
its been 5 years since it was last on the road according to previous mot docs - december 2010 was when it expired :s
and it feels so tight almost new car like - even has the obligatory draft from where the drivers door doesnt quite fit right against the seal.....
the...
Well it failed.....
But very minimally.
Rear fog light didnt work .....- it did prior to test. How ever if you held the switch in it did work , so ive stripped it down and cleaned the contacts. Working grand,
The headlights are dim .... He reckoned the earth , i think the bulbs are just...
while it does hold all the weight - it only holds the weight on the roller bearing and the railko bush at the top where the hub is mounted too and the bolts at the back.
the actual sealing surface that i have epoxied the chrome on is only a seal surface.
MOT tomorrow....bit nervey to say the...
aye its hugely motivational......
i mind the boost when i got the 200tdi started for the first time.....
then the next step was to get it rolling forwards sand back wards....
then the brakes....
then i took it for a drive - and it **** on me. i was down and bummed till i saw it was my...