This is VERY interesting to think about. An ever so slight upward and outward angle on the sprocket shaft to match the infeed rate as to not "push/pull" the sprocket. My initial thought was that the sprocket is too blunt. Maybe I could sharpen one to a point for better incisions or cut out a...
I'd move the joist/truss over 3.5" and add 2x4s from floor straight up through opening and leave wild for now. Nail to floor joist/truss. Does 3 things. (1) op says he wants to do a paint booth of sorts under the stairs if my memory is correct. This creates a wall for that. (2) stair stringer is...
Thats interesting about the chipper roller......my brain was thinking kinda along those lines about a roller with track shoe spikes drilled/tapped every inch or so all around it.
Thinking 3/8". 100s of posts. I have a tank with and apparatus that will fully submerge at least 20 at a time. Still brainstorming on the building of the incising part of it.
If your joists are 16" tall as per the plan you're not going to need any of that stuff. Double up the last full length joist as stated and hanger header directly into double joist. Hanger stair stringer into header and block if needed
A hydraulic driven molar or bicuspid?? I would just use a chain to pull out a fence post or the thumb on an excavator.
Winner. Lots of ingenious people out there. Thought someone may have built their own and would share a few pics.
Add one more step and notch the bottom of the stair stringer to sit on the existing header. Then cut a 2x4-6 on the same angle as stairs and nail to existing header under stringer.
edit: disregard, I didn't read question correctly
The range lives. Some may not like my "fix" but it saved me several thousand dollars and it don't leak. I ended up buying a PC of 3/8 ID alum tube to fit over the 3/8 OD tube and sawed off just under an 1/8" long piece. That piece essentially took the place of the second bubble and acted as a...