Recent content by TRWham

We did a similar project a few years ago, but a 4’ cantilever. We ran 4 LVLs above the space in the attic and suspended the addition. The LVLs ran back into the attic and were tied down to the rafter ties.

You are right, as the return current will follow ALL paths of less than infinite resistance, not just the mythical one of least resistance. You may find it hard to detect the leak assuming there is a nice low impedance path available, but I have seen a building operating with a severed POCO...

You would get 240 V on one coil, and 120 V on the other 2, and about 50% of the heat.

Retorqued the head on the Norton (the second of three times) then checked the valve clearance (no change). While I did that, my son was installing a new fuel tank in his 1975 F150. The Aprilia is his.

I missed that, but it's logical. That or there was an early expectation that they might want the neutral at some point so the 14-50 was chosen for potential future use. The only waste is the 4th wire so I suppose it's not a major concern and does offer flexibility regardless of the reasoning.

I guess this is your snarky way of saying none do, and it's fair to say I know of none. However, as a contractor, we have been guided to install 14-50 receptacles and it seems many or most level 2 EVSEs are provided with the option of a 14-50 plug or hardwiring. I have been told this is because...

I think that would be because it's common to provide a 14-50 receptacle for EVSEs because some do need the neutral, thus it makes sense to include a 14-50P even if the unit is 240 V only.

The last step to finish the Commando was to install the seat. I only got a short test ride this evening, but the lighter pistons, longer connecting rods and new Isolastics make for a much smoother running Norton.

Maybe the F1 makes it a unique SKU for FastenersPlus?

It’s so hard to order a slider…

We spend $1.5 million a year with THD and they would not accept a return of a custom order if we screwed up. It’s right there on the quote.

This has been quite enlightening, though we don't do many windows anymore. We have always installed Low E with argon which gets us to 0.29, and would need to add EPS spacers (or triple Low E at even more $$$) to comply with 2024, but we are still on 2015 in Georgia and 2021 in Florida.

Well, you still need pressure, otherwise your superheat and subcooling numbers may be skewed. I imagine temp/temp may be close enough in many cases, but you cannot be sure, so a pressure reading seems a small price to pay for better information, especially if you're trying to set it really close.

The tag on the tank will likely be the ASME label for whoever made the tank. It will have a date of manufacture and information about the tank material, test pressures, etc. There may also be a label or logo of the compressor OEM on the tank, but not always. Look on the pump itself to identify...

Or maybe a Kellogg-American. Those intercooler tubes look more like Kellogg, as the SBs I have seen use a big, cast intercooler.