Recent content by tylernt

Maybe this flue gas condensate thing depends on local climate? I'm in a semi-arid region and atmospheric water heaters here last for decades at 120°F and then die of mechanical malfunction, maybe because there's not much humidity in the air to begin with.

You've got me worried now... no radiant heat, but I have an natural draft water heater and a recirc pump on my house. What about it kills the water heater? Just that it runs so frequently when used for radiant?

6-space interior (not weatherproof) sub-panels run about $20. For example, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-Homeline-100-Amp-6-Space-12-Circuit-Indoor-Surface-Mount-Main-Lugs-Load-Center-with-Cover-HOM612L100SCP/100190554 I haven't used that 6-space one personally, so...

What brand are they?

For a recently made (say 10 years) panel from a major manufacturer (Square D, Cutler-hammer, GE, Siemens, etc), you can get replacements for just about any part through an electrical supply house locally or online. But for an older or less popular brand of panel, yeah, probably just easiest to...

Is 6ga thinner than what was there before? Thinner wire has more voltage drop. Also, 16ft of wire will have more voltage drop than 6ft. Won't matter for bulk charging at say 25A, but for a 250A jump start your motor might turn over a little slower due to the resistance in the longer / skinnier...

Physical size, no, you can go as big as you want. But if it has more than 6 handles, it must include a Main breaker or disconnect so that all power to the structure can be killed with one throw.

Again, that's inductive (motor) logic. By that logic, applying 240V to a 120V light bulb will make it half as bright. In reality, the light bulb will get REALLY bright for a heartbeat or two, right before it blows. ;) 12.5A @ 208V = 2,600W From this we find that the heater element has a...

While this logic (more V = less A) may apply to inductive loads such as a motor, I beleive it is incorrect for a resistive load. Ohm's law: http://www.electriciantalk.com/f2/208v-vs-240v-heater-elements-35009/#post655951

Copper is expensive. If you want it cheaper you'll probably have to steal it. :(

That's why I prefer surface-mount conduit for shops. It's a shop, not a 5-star hotel -- why restrict yourself to the limits of in-wall wiring?

A resistance heating device (like an oven) will run hotter at 240V than it will at 208V. Whether this makes no difference, causes the device to catch fire, or something in between, depends on a lot of factors... I would try to contact the manufacturer, and if you can't get them to confirm or...

"Frame a hole", as in, for a through-the-wall unit? If so, you may want to have him frame a 4' wide hole so you can use a PTAC (the type used in motel/hotel rooms). PTACs are generally more efficient than a window/through-the-wall A/C, and have more features (such as "freeze protection" that...

Actually, I've got my pulley adjusted to the minimum CFM. On 'high' mode, my cooler about blows me out of the room so I see no need to push the max! The nameplate on my motor shows 8.4A on high and 4A on low. So, a little less than half the cost of high. Don't forget installation costs. Your 26...

I believe there are two kinds of breaker. The most common is the magnetic or instant-trip. That's what you see for sale in big box stores and what is normally installed in residential 99% of the time. But I believe you can special-order (or an dedicated electrical supply house may stock) an...