Recent content by woodbutcher80

Hi there. Well definitely lots of updates to share.. The drywall was done and then came the arduous task of what kind of shelving, where to put toolboxes, pegboard wall, etc. I put 21 lights in the gym area of the garage, and sectioned off a 16x11ft office that I’m typing from right now. The...

Drywall is coming along good. All 4,000 sq ft of it! taping will be done within the week.

Hi there. Yes I stapled to the inside of the stud. In regards to installation on the ceiling...I have no idea if you are supposed to remove the paper facing. It would be pretty difficult to keep the insulation in place since you wouldn't really have anything to staple. as far as changing...

Finally got a break from my toddler and 5 week old newborn, so i prepped for drywall over the weekend. i moved everything away from the walls, including one of the car lift posts so itll be easy to install the drywall. Wiring is 100%, reznor is installed and works great. the downstairs goes from...

hey there. Life got in the way so its been pretty stagnant lately. ill take more photos when the drywall gets put up hopefully by end of this month. i built the wall in the back left corner for the clean room (just brewed a beer back there), a wall upstairs for the office, and ran miles of...

Hey there rad. That's what I decided on.. I really like the cable suspension system that it comes with. I'm just running. 12-18in of greenfield which is very flexible so if I need to do any maintenance on the light I can just lower it so it's 18 inches from the ceiling. The cable tensioning...

I like that idea. I just took typical metal work boxes and hung them on the joist right above the lights, ran my 14/2 and my 18/2 dimmer wire into those boxes, and then out of the box with 3/4 inch Greenfield and down to the lights. That way I only have 1 hole to pop for a knockout in the light.

yup. armored galvanized whip is what you need. buy it with 14/2 already in it at home depot. my lights had 1/2" KOs for that reason.

Well you have couple options. By NEC code you have to have a work box to put the wires in. With my lights I have about six or seven inches to work with sticking out of the light. You can wire it like any other ceiling fan or ceiling light and just the connections and tuck them into a work box...

Glad things worked out so far. The $75 High Bay lights I referenced above are actually their newest model I was told. I know they are slightly smaller in dimensions. Anyways, I ordered three just to play with and they came in today. They are bright little buggers. The hanging wires that they...

you hung the frosted ones and not the OP's higher lumen ones? either way any info would be good. i know i want frosted lenses, and the OPs link doesnt say that in the description. but who knows. i emailed the company. anyways, my ceiling is 2x10 joists right now since there is a room above...

any updates with the brackets? also were the lenses frosted? it didnt say it in the description, and the below one does. i want frosted for sure, even though the below one has a little less lumen output than yours...

Platonic... In reply #41 you wrote: Sounds logical, as long as you don't have the power feed of all the fixtures going to that switch. This was the whole reason i suggested to beef up the wire to 12 gauge. All 13 will be controlled by 1 15a circuit breaker that is controlled at 3 different...

found this statement in another post: For 20 AMP you have 20A*120V or 2400 watts and 15 AMP you have 15A*120V or 1800 watts. Good Electricians will only plan for 80% load so you have 1920 and 1440 watts respectively at your disposal per circuit. i would have 1430 watts with 13 in main garage...

Hmmm. I could always run 12/3 in between the switches, and 12/2 to all 13 lights. That would definitely cover me from overloading one circuit (20a capacity). Those lights are 110 watts each. 13 of them should be around 12-13 amps total. No? I guess I'm just trying to avoid having more than four...