Recent content by xroad

Met up with my friend, who has a welder. We welder the big 3/4" nut onto the face of the bumper. Put the threaded rod in ..... humm, it is not straight out 90* to the bumper. Well, of course, the bumper is bent inward. The face of the bumper is facing off to one side. So, I placed the 6x6"...

The plastic bumper wrap, the bumper, and the sheet metal under it all ..... are like 3 sheets of paper crumpled together. If I peel off the plastic wrap, or the bumper, it will never be able to go back on. I started to take the plastic wrap off at the right side, behind the rear wheel ...

I have to do it with the bumper still mounted to the car. Otherwise, the straightened bumper will not line up to the mounting points.

My son have the car (1999 Infinity I30) now. Moving back to his college dorm. I'll get some pictures, soon. A come along sounds like a good possibility. Not sure if I can get an attachment of anything around the bumper. It is a crushed compressed mangled mess under there. -Bill

Hi Folks, My son's car got rear ended. The car is old, high mileage, still drive-able. I am unemployed and money is REALLY tight and I don't want to sink any money into this project. We'll drive this car to the ground and be done with it. So, I want to just pull the now v-shape bumper back...

I did a quick eye ball measurement of the lobe to lobe distance of an E14 and E16 wrench. E14 shouldd fit a 9mm hex head fairly snug. The E16 will be very loose on a 10mm but if you file down the peaks of each lobe a tiny bit, it will fit a 11mm hex head. (the information is the best...

Wow that is a great primer. Well, good for adding to my knowledge. As for possibility of pursuing this little experiment, it is a no go. My "facility" does not go beyond a propane torch and sledge hammer. Thanks.

The purpose of this HYPOTHETICAL mental excercise is not to make a functional tool, or try to turn it into a Snap-on wrench. I just want some education on metalurgy ... and entertainment.

I found a new crappy double box end wrench. It was really sloppy when I tried it on a fastener, as expected. So, here is a hypothetical question ... Can I un-**** the crappy tool by heating it red hot and whack it with a sledge hammer and hope that the compression will "tighten" the box end...

I don't think circulating the air would help unless you are pulling in dry air to dilute the moist air. Otherwise, you'll be coating all surfaces evenly with what ever moisture there are in the room. If the outside air is more humid ..... even worst. Most of my humid air comes from the side...

Ehhh ... I can help with that one. From experience, I ran a very long small diameter tubing from the dehumidifier to the sump pit. Problem is the LONG thin tubing presents sufficient resistance (drag) to not allow the water to flow. The potential pressure (height) is not enough. I propped...

Speaking of light bulbs. One of my friend have a dirt floor garage to park his motorcycle. He keeps the bike cover with a waterproof cover and keeps an incandescent bulb under the bike to keep warm air raising into the bike cover.

I know I am pulling lots of water out of the air. I use to empty the bucket couple of times a day. Now I connected a hose and run it to the sump pit. I use to have an old dehumidifier that cycles on and off per my setting. Recent years, all the units I purchased would get trigger on and...

My back door leads to stairs to go up to the kitchen or stairs to go down to the basement. The back door is the most used door so hot humid air from outside gets "mixed in" often. I have not seen moisture on the surfaces but I assume that is the cause of the surface rust. My friends detached...

I have a basement that is very humid. Some of the tools I have shows surface rust. I now have a dehumidifer running on a timer. It runs for an hour every 3 hours. Here is what I have read, may or ay not be true. 1/ High water content in the air (most humid) may not be the most damaging...