SilverJimmy
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One of my favorite old Snap-On boxes, KR537/KR557 combo. The small drawers behind the door on the top box is so useful for organizing tools!
Above 1200 Sq/FT My Retirement Shop, Pole Barns, Old Truck and Questionable Decisions Thread
- Thread starter SouthernIllinois
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
csp
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Interesting to run across your compressor lines thread and find the link to this one. I thought I had a unique idea to run the interior water line in our barn like you ran yours, with a frost free hydrant. Currently ours comes in through the floor of a utility room/bathroom into a ball valve, then branches off to a wash bay and water bowls in every stall (23 stalls).
The place sat empty for several years and there are several splits in the copper from water sitting in them and freezing. If I open the ball valve where it enters through the floor there's a split on the output side of it that leaks. As long as it's off there's no leakage and heat tape is keeping it thawed. The bathroom has a fiberglass shower stall and my plan was to remove that, break up the floor in a 2'x2' area and install a hydrant for the water source. I'm also going to utilize a pitless adapter at the bottom of the hydrant to make replacement easy, similar to what the kits found here use. https://mitimfg.com/. I can find the pitless adapter for $60 and I have 6" Schedule 80 PVC that I can install it into, just like a well pump. I would just plug the bottom outlet and drill out the barrier between the inlet and the top threaded area that's used to pull a pump out of a well.
Seeing yours in place helps me realize this is a valid idea. The rust issue may come into play, we do have one hydrant that doesn't drain like it should and we do see rust when it sits unused for a long period. It could be 40+ years old too.
The place sat empty for several years and there are several splits in the copper from water sitting in them and freezing. If I open the ball valve where it enters through the floor there's a split on the output side of it that leaks. As long as it's off there's no leakage and heat tape is keeping it thawed. The bathroom has a fiberglass shower stall and my plan was to remove that, break up the floor in a 2'x2' area and install a hydrant for the water source. I'm also going to utilize a pitless adapter at the bottom of the hydrant to make replacement easy, similar to what the kits found here use. https://mitimfg.com/. I can find the pitless adapter for $60 and I have 6" Schedule 80 PVC that I can install it into, just like a well pump. I would just plug the bottom outlet and drill out the barrier between the inlet and the top threaded area that's used to pull a pump out of a well.
Seeing yours in place helps me realize this is a valid idea. The rust issue may come into play, we do have one hydrant that doesn't drain like it should and we do see rust when it sits unused for a long period. It could be 40+ years old too.
OP
SouthernIllinois
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One of my favorite old Snap-On boxes, KR537/KR557 combo. The small drawers behind the door on the top box is so useful for organizing tools!
Thanks.
Before I left the bodywork trade and joined the Navy, I had this set up and loved it. When I got this set up I thought I was King $hit...lol.
For almost two years I have been searching for another set.
Most I found were beat up, rusted and overpriced.
Just recently I found this set - nearly identical to what I had in 1989.
They belonged to an aircraft mechanic - I assume that is why they are still in this condition.
These are 1987 models. A few scratches here and there but remarkable shape for their age.
OP
SouthernIllinois
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I wish I had been aware of the pitless adapters when I did this - I didn't even know they existed.
I did take a plastic sump pump well and cut the bottom out of it and put the hydrant in that and filled that with gravel - the hydrant is not cemented in.
I did put a whole house water filter right off the hydrant to catch any rust.
All the plumbing is done with each leg having its own isolation valves and the hot and cold sides have connections for an air hose. I can selectively isolate any individual leg and blow it down with compressed air to winterize it if needed. I do have an outside deep sink and spigot that I will need to winterize. I intend to keep the building heated all winter so the inside lines shouldn't be an issue.
I did put a 110V, 30 gallon water heater in and put a hot & cold spigot on the patio and on the interior near an overhead door for washing snow and ice off stuff.
I guess I will know how it all works out soon.....lol
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
One of my favorite old Snap-On boxes, KR537/KR557 combo. The small drawers behind the door on the top box is so useful for organizing tools!
^Agreed Sterling. I had that exact setup during the 90's at work. I purchased it from my boss at the time as he was upgrading. I liked those small drawers behind the hinged cover on the right as well. Made organizing small tools neat and orderly.
@SouthernIllinois the shop is looking amazing. Congrats on being able to start moving things in. I remember the day I moved my tools into my new shop and the toolbox was the first item I moved in.
July 4, 2017.
SilverJimmy
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Before Snap-On started making the KR series roll carts with all drawers on the front I sold many used KR557’s to my transmission R&R techs. They didn’t need a really large box for the job as it didn’t require a lot of tools and they liked that magnetic socket holders would stay in place on the top. And we discovered that if one carefully drilled a 1/2” hole thru the top in the rear top corner a GAX36 slid perfectly down into the box. That 1/2”x3/8” 36” long extension was crucial for quickly removing and replacing transmissions! Now nearly every roll cart made has that feature!
Homebody
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Wow, Great looking shop you've got there!! Welcome to Illinois!!
csp
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I did see how you isolated the different water runs as well as the whole house filter. I'm not sure that a sediment filter is going to stop rust that's in solution though.
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SouthernIllinois
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Air lines and filter/regulators are in, making headway on getting outlet (120v & 240v) and lighting conduit ran. Tool room interior OSB is up and primed. It will be haze gray by the end of the weekend. Air compressor to be delivered next week and get the wainscot and barnwood on the exterior of the tool room.
adsinnott1
Well-known member
Following up from your response in the plywall thread.
First off, AWESOME build!
I am going to run water to my detached shop (located in Kentucky). I have an electric heater in my shop and it is insulated. I have not typically been running the heater unless I am going to go work out there. This makes up for I would say a few weeks out of the year where the temperature in the shop is below freezing.
Is the reason for the main feed being a frost proof hydrant that in the event heat fails you have a shut off? Why not just pipe in and have a shut off? I am assuming because you could still get a freeze in the line coming in when you get above the freeze line. The same could be said for a house though, but you would likely realize thee was an issue with the heating before it came to this. Maybe you could not be in the shop for days and not realize the temperature dropping and then a pipe bursting.
I think I have answered most of my questions... HAHA. I am curious to hear your response though and do feel that I may end up going this same route for my setup.
First off, AWESOME build!
I am going to run water to my detached shop (located in Kentucky). I have an electric heater in my shop and it is insulated. I have not typically been running the heater unless I am going to go work out there. This makes up for I would say a few weeks out of the year where the temperature in the shop is below freezing.
Is the reason for the main feed being a frost proof hydrant that in the event heat fails you have a shut off? Why not just pipe in and have a shut off? I am assuming because you could still get a freeze in the line coming in when you get above the freeze line. The same could be said for a house though, but you would likely realize thee was an issue with the heating before it came to this. Maybe you could not be in the shop for days and not realize the temperature dropping and then a pipe bursting.
I think I have answered most of my questions... HAHA. I am curious to hear your response though and do feel that I may end up going this same route for my setup.
OP
SouthernIllinois
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Thank you - seems like an endless process.
Waited 9 months for the builder's next build slot.
Rained like hell for weeks when it was time to pour the concrete.
I still don't have electricity to it because the power company keeps dragging their feet.
It will be spring or even summer before we can re-shape the driveway and get the asphalt butted up to the apron.
Patience is not my strong suite...lol
As far as the water...
I guess I could have just piped it in and put the valve below the frost line but this seemed easier. I can't take credit for thinking of this. Most of the pole barns around here have their water coming in the same way.
If I lose heat or just decide to shut it off when leaving town for more than a few days I can just disconnect the jumper hose, shut off the hydrant, drain the water heater and blow down the lines and not worry about it.
On various barn, shed, garage social media pages I have been told I am a fool for doing this and that those Iowa hydrants fail all the time. All I can say is I have four others on the property that were installed 29 years ago and all four still work flawlessly. I did put it in a plastic sump well with the bottom cut out around it before they poured the concrete and filled it with gravel so I won't have to bust cement to change it if I do have to pull it. In all honesty, the easiest way to change it out if I ever needed to would be to dig it out from the outside of the building with a mini- excavator (that's how we put it in).
Some more detailed pics of my set-up.
Not a fan of the PEX "manifold" - I wish they had used copper and a modified an in-floor radiant heat manifold instead of all the PEX but the plumber ensured my I wouldn't have an issue and if I did, he would stand behind it. He is a local fella with a good reputation so I hit the "I believe button".
The key chain labels on the valves are in case something happens to me, whoever is left to clean up after me knows what is what.
This small diameter, braided hose has since been replaced with a shorter 3/4" hose.
The current hydrant hose rig. The black 3' hose is for filling 5-gallon buckets right at the hydrant.
Waited 9 months for the builder's next build slot.
Rained like hell for weeks when it was time to pour the concrete.
I still don't have electricity to it because the power company keeps dragging their feet.
It will be spring or even summer before we can re-shape the driveway and get the asphalt butted up to the apron.
Patience is not my strong suite...lol
As far as the water...
I guess I could have just piped it in and put the valve below the frost line but this seemed easier. I can't take credit for thinking of this. Most of the pole barns around here have their water coming in the same way.
If I lose heat or just decide to shut it off when leaving town for more than a few days I can just disconnect the jumper hose, shut off the hydrant, drain the water heater and blow down the lines and not worry about it.
On various barn, shed, garage social media pages I have been told I am a fool for doing this and that those Iowa hydrants fail all the time. All I can say is I have four others on the property that were installed 29 years ago and all four still work flawlessly. I did put it in a plastic sump well with the bottom cut out around it before they poured the concrete and filled it with gravel so I won't have to bust cement to change it if I do have to pull it. In all honesty, the easiest way to change it out if I ever needed to would be to dig it out from the outside of the building with a mini- excavator (that's how we put it in).
Some more detailed pics of my set-up.
Not a fan of the PEX "manifold" - I wish they had used copper and a modified an in-floor radiant heat manifold instead of all the PEX but the plumber ensured my I wouldn't have an issue and if I did, he would stand behind it. He is a local fella with a good reputation so I hit the "I believe button".
The key chain labels on the valves are in case something happens to me, whoever is left to clean up after me knows what is what.
This small diameter, braided hose has since been replaced with a shorter 3/4" hose.
The current hydrant hose rig. The black 3' hose is for filling 5-gallon buckets right at the hydrant.
captain14
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Very good looking shop as others have said. Waiting to see what’s going to be worked on inside .
OP
SouthernIllinois
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Mr onetwo
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I don't know what code you are under, but where I am you can't install PEX within 18" of a water heater. 2021 UPC
OP
SouthernIllinois
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Idk - no permits or inspections out here in BFE.I don't know what code you are under, but where I am you can't install PEX within 18" of a water heater. 2021 UPC
manwithtools
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In IL you are on the International Plumbing Code (IPC) which allows PEX to connect directly to an electric water heater.
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SouthernIllinois
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Thanks.
I am pretty confident they are 100% legal - I asked them to plumb my urinal drain into my downspout drains.
They said they couldn't do that but they would stub out the drain and what I did after they left was all on me....lol
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
When it comes to the urinal, I hope you don't mean that literally
You know if you make that keg urinal low enough, the womenfolk could use it !
Place is looking great and since it has turned into a build thread, I've moved it to the Gallery Section. You can do like the rest of us have done after the build is finished, just continue with the in shop projects.
Place is looking great and since it has turned into a build thread, I've moved it to the Gallery Section. You can do like the rest of us have done after the build is finished, just continue with the in shop projects.
OP
SouthernIllinois
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Thanks - I appreciate itYou know if you make that keg urinal low enough, the womenfolk could use it !
Place is looking great and since it has turned into a build thread, I've moved it to the Gallery Section. You can do like the rest of us have done after the build is finished, just continue with the in shop projects.
OP
SouthernIllinois
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Tool room progress. Ceiling and walls are now US Navy bilge grey, lights are up, outlet are in and the compressor disconnect installed. Dust & Sons delivering compressor Tuesday. Hopefully Ameren will have us power next week!
Last edited:
OP
SouthernIllinois
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Compressor delivered today.
Local, family owned place sells them, they are also a Champion service and warranty provider.
They broke it in and delivered it for free. Paid $50 extra to have an hour meter installed on it.
Now if I could only get the damned power company to come finish hooking up my electricity!!
Left plenty of room around it in the tool room so I can reach to open the window for cooling and fresh air and to change the belts when that day comes.
Local, family owned place sells them, they are also a Champion service and warranty provider.
They broke it in and delivered it for free. Paid $50 extra to have an hour meter installed on it.
Now if I could only get the damned power company to come finish hooking up my electricity!!
Left plenty of room around it in the tool room so I can reach to open the window for cooling and fresh air and to change the belts when that day comes.
Mr onetwo
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That is a very nice compressor 
OP
SouthernIllinois
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An update from the Hilltop
Electric work is going well - conduit is almost all in and we have started pulling wire.
I have also started on storage and shelving in the tool room.
A couple pics from this morning.
Electric work is going well - conduit is almost all in and we have started pulling wire.
I have also started on storage and shelving in the tool room.
A couple pics from this morning.
Mr onetwo
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It's coming together!
OP
SouthernIllinois
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Started on the exterior of the tool room.
Should get the door on tomorrow.
An old high school buddy, neighbor and home builder took care of the heavy lifting. I think he was glad for some indoor work - been brutal cold here.
Should get the door on tomorrow.
An old high school buddy, neighbor and home builder took care of the heavy lifting. I think he was glad for some indoor work - been brutal cold here.
Jblount3
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Looks good saw it on fb too
OP
SouthernIllinois
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Door is on an floor swept
Sifan
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hello from Carterville!!
IBEW702
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Ok, another guy from Carterville checking in.
OP
SouthernIllinois
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hello neighbor, I am down in Effingham county
Sifan
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Used to do business with Equity, have family that farms in Douglas Co.
OP
SouthernIllinois
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Power to be hooked up tomorrow but I wanted to see how my lighting was.
Back fed panel via an extension cord.
Twelve 150W high bays with diffusers on 12’ ceiling.
56x36 floor space.
I couldn’t be more pleased.
Back fed panel via an extension cord.
Twelve 150W high bays with diffusers on 12’ ceiling.
56x36 floor space.
I couldn’t be more pleased.
OP
SouthernIllinois
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The shed has power after a couple of weather delays.
Power company came out and killed the pole, tied into the new meter and they were on their way.
No permit or inspection required.
Power company came out and killed the pole, tied into the new meter and they were on their way.
No permit or inspection required.
KansasProud
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Looking good man! I really like the barn wood on the exterior of the tool room. I'm going to be in your neck of the woods this weekend at the Mule Barn in DuBois for Pulaski Day. Have you ever been to the parade? It's a hoot!
OP
SouthernIllinois
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Wired up an old pair of Great Lakes steamer navigation lights.
Red means the tool battery chargers are energized. Their outlet is on a switch on the exterior wall of the tool room above the light switch.
Green means the air compressor is energized.
Did this so I wouldn’t forget to kill power to them before I left the shed.
Red means the tool battery chargers are energized. Their outlet is on a switch on the exterior wall of the tool room above the light switch.
Green means the air compressor is energized.
Did this so I wouldn’t forget to kill power to them before I left the shed.
SilverJimmy
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Wow! I need both of those lights for my build! Now I have another place to look for them.
Mr onetwo
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What a clever idea and so much cooler than a couple of pilot light switches or other boring standard solution.
OP
SouthernIllinois
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Bad case of the flu has had me down for over a week.
We did get the propane tank in place so Farm Services can come and install the radiant tube heater on the ceiling.
Electrics about halfway done. We have lights, garage door openers and about a third of the outlets powered up.
Made a compromise on a project car .. late 60s Camaros, Mopars and Nova/Malibus are simply too expensive for my budget.
Found a 1965 Corvair in decent shape for a Midwest car.
The price was right and something about the looks kind grabbed me.
It runs and drives. Body needs work which is what I was looking for.
Any real work will have to wait until the shed is 100% complete and we have fully moved in - I still have tools and some equipment in storage.
For those that say highbay lights won't work with 12' ceilings .... I can't disagree more.
These Saturn lights with diffusers light it up beautifully. Perfect for paint & body work.
We did get the propane tank in place so Farm Services can come and install the radiant tube heater on the ceiling.
Electrics about halfway done. We have lights, garage door openers and about a third of the outlets powered up.
Made a compromise on a project car .. late 60s Camaros, Mopars and Nova/Malibus are simply too expensive for my budget.
Found a 1965 Corvair in decent shape for a Midwest car.
The price was right and something about the looks kind grabbed me.
It runs and drives. Body needs work which is what I was looking for.
Any real work will have to wait until the shed is 100% complete and we have fully moved in - I still have tools and some equipment in storage.
For those that say highbay lights won't work with 12' ceilings .... I can't disagree more.
These Saturn lights with diffusers light it up beautifully. Perfect for paint & body work.
ericm
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When I was a kid my mom drove a '64 Chevy II (Nova) that same color. It was even an SS I think. With a 283 and automatic. They were cheap back then but they are pretty expensive now.