Finishing Garage Walls with Plywood

[andyvh1959]

When I built my detached shop in 2020 I had two rows of 8" block set on the slab to allow for grade on the east and south wall. But doing this also means no moisture issues at the sill plate, so I covered the interior walls with OSB. Walls were framed for 8' height on top of the block so two sheets of OSB makes 8' high, or one sheet vertically.

 

[cls89]

Another option I am considering is using 4x6 smart siding (engineered wood siding) that's 3/8" thick. This product is on sale for $19 / sheet. The surface is primed for paint.

The only issue is my walls are about 7ft high, so a 4x6 sheet hung vertically would still leave 1-ft of empty space I would need to cover with something else.

I can get 2x6 pallet boards for free from work, so I was thinking about doing two rows 2x6 pallet boards (staggered) at the bottom and then 4x6 smart siding on top of that. Not sure what everyone's opinion is on this idea, or if there are other / better inexpensive ways I can cover that 1-ft gap?

 

[TonyG109]

My thoughts are that the paneling is too pretty to use in a garage! And 3/8" may be a bit thin for fastening items to the wall. But if you aren't planning on putting a bunch of screws into the wall to hang lightweight items and re-configuring later on, then go for it. If the bottom 1' is done in a tasteful manner, it could be made to look like a base molding of sorts. I guess it all depends on what type of "look" you're going for.

Heck, how many 2x6 pallet boards can you get? Maybe do the entire garage with those boards?? You'd have a rustic look with lots of durability.

 

[LopezBart]

Another option I am considering is using 4x6 smart siding (engineered wood siding) that's 3/8" thick. This product is on sale for $19 / sheet. The surface is primed for paint.

The only issue is my walls are about 7ft high, so a 4x6 sheet hung vertically would still leave 1-ft of empty space I would need to cover with something else.

I can get 2x6 pallet boards for free from work, so I was thinking about doing two rows 2x6 pallet boards (staggered) at the bottom and then 4x6 smart siding on top of that. Not sure what everyone's opinion is on this idea, or if there are other / better inexpensive ways I can cover that 1-ft gap?

Rip a few of the sheets into 1 foot strips, and fasten those at the bottom.

 

[MooreGarage]

Another option I am considering is using 4x6 smart siding (engineered wood siding) that's 3/8" thick. This product is on sale for $19 / sheet. The surface is primed for paint.

The only issue is my walls are about 7ft high, so a 4x6 sheet hung vertically would still leave 1-ft of empty space I would need to cover with something else.

I can get 2x6 pallet boards for free from work, so I was thinking about doing two rows 2x6 pallet boards (staggered) at the bottom and then 4x6 smart siding on top of that. Not sure what everyone's opinion is on this idea, or if there are other / better inexpensive ways I can cover that 1-ft gap?

This is what I used. And I raised it up about 6" off the floor to eliminate concerns about moisture. My garage also has issues with condensation on the floor (although way less now that the garage is insulated), and also I wanted to use 8' boards with slightly over 9' ceilings. So I made the 8' boards work with an 8" pine board at the top, and a 1x4 PVC trim board at the bottom, and the remaining gap to the floor covered with a really thin PVC trim board that was roughly 0.125"x1". The only place I had to deal with **** seams was on the ceiling, and I used 1x4 pine trim to cover those.

 

[cls89]

This is what I used. And I raised it up about 6" off the floor to eliminate concerns about moisture. My garage also has issues with condensation on the floor (although way less now that the garage is insulated), and also I wanted to use 8' boards with slightly over 9' ceilings. So I made the 8' boards work with an 8" pine board at the top, and a 1x4 PVC trim board at the bottom, and the remaining gap to the floor covered with a really thin PVC trim board that was roughly 0.125"x1". The only place I had to deal with **** seams was on the ceiling, and I used 1x4 pine trim to cover those.

What type of fastener did you use for the smart siding? Screws or nails? If screws did you use a washer head type of screw?

 

[MooreGarage]

I used these Torx screws (in the 2" size):

DECKMATE #9 x 2-1/2 in. Tan Torx Flat-Head Wood Deck Screw (5 lbs. / 435-Piece) 115981 - The Home Depot

Protect your air conditioning unit from weather elements when not in use with this DECKMATE Star FlatHead Wood Deck Screw.

www.homedepot.com

Spaced at 12" intervals.

A quick dab of caulk over the screw heads before painting, and you can only find the screws when you are really looking for them (it helps that all of the screws are inside the grooves).

 

[MooreGarage]

Also for the overhead stuff, I used a cheap drywall lift from Amazon, worked great. I was able to do it all without any assistance.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

I am putting a utility room in my pole barn.

In it will be the breaker panel, water heater, urinal, frost proof hydrant that serves as shut off valve for the building and a big 80 gallon air compressor.

1/2" OSB on the exterior and interior walls.

Exterior walls will have rusted barn metal wainscot, barn wood on it with a sliding barn door.

Put one coat of Sherwin-Williams Extreme Block oil based primer on the interior a couple days ago, caulked the seams yesterday with DAP Alex Plus caulk. I'm going to let that cure a couple days then I am going to give it another coat of primer and then paint the walls and ceiling with haze gray latex.

I used a 1/2" nap roller for the first coat of primer which I now realize was a mistake. I have 1 1/4" rollers for the next coat of primer.

 

[cls89]

I used these Torx screws (in the 2" size):

DECKMATE #9 x 2-1/2 in. Tan Torx Flat-Head Wood Deck Screw (5 lbs. / 435-Piece) 115981 - The Home Depot

Protect your air conditioning unit from weather elements when not in use with this DECKMATE Star FlatHead Wood Deck Screw.

www.homedepot.com

Spaced at 12" intervals.

A quick dab of caulk over the screw heads before painting, and you can only find the screws when you are really looking for them (it helps that all of the screws are inside the grooves).

Thanks. Question with the material being about 3/8" thick, would a screw with a washer style head be better? I would imagine using a screw without the washer head would lead to countersinking and probably a weaker connection?

 

[SouthernIllinois]

Thanks. Question with the material being about 3/8" thick, would a screw with a washer style head be better? I would imagine using a screw without the washer head would lead to countersinking and probably a weaker connection?

I used cabinet screws to attach my OSB.
Torx head with a "washer" style head.

 

[cls89]

I used cabinet screws to attach my OSB.
Torx head with a "washer" style head.

Yea that seems like the ideal choice for thinner panels. About 1-1/2” length?

 

[Cougar]

I used some composite decking trim board (waterproof). Sealed it against the floor with urethane caulking and screwed to the studs. My walls are drywall so I put a J channel along the bottom of the drywall and it sits on top of the deck trim which is also 1/2".

This is a good way to go.

 

[MooreGarage]

Thanks. Question with the material being about 3/8" thick, would a screw with a washer style head be better? I would imagine using a screw without the washer head would lead to countersinking and probably a weaker connection?

I didn't have any problem with this. The torx screws give you really good control so you don't drive them too deep. I just drove them in until flush or ever so slightly indented.

 

[gmoss]

Thanks. Question with the material being about 3/8" thick, would a screw with a washer style head be better? I would imagine using a screw without the washer head would lead to countersinking and probably a weaker connection?

I have gone thru about 50 lbs of these in my shop, ceiling and walls. They work great. They have little ridges on the head that help keep them tight. If your drill has a torque cutoff setting maybe figure out where to best set it for correct penetration. With the washer style, it will be harder to set flush. But I can see a reason to use them.

 

[jollygreengiant]

I'm surprised, 3 pages of replies about garage interior finish options and no one has mentioned trusscore or plastic coated plywood. I haven't made the decision yet but that's likely the route I'll go for my garage.

 

[adsinnott1]

I am putting a utility room in my pole barn.

In it will be the breaker panel, water heater, urinal, frost proof hydrant that serves as shut off valve for the building and a big 80 gallon air compressor.

1/2" OSB on the exterior and interior walls.

Exterior walls will have rusted barn metal wainscot, barn wood on it with a sliding barn door.

Put one coat of Sherwin-Williams Extreme Block oil based primer on the interior a couple days ago, caulked the seams yesterday with DAP Alex Plus caulk. I'm going to let that cure a couple days then I am going to give it another coat of primer and then paint the walls and ceiling with haze gray latex.

I used a 1/2" nap roller for the first coat of primer which I now realize was a mistake. I have 1 1/4" rollers for the next coat of primer.

Is the frost free hydrant going to be the main water supply to the shop? I am looking to do something similar. Will you be blowing out the lines in the shop fed by the hydrant, to sink, etc... in the winter? Assuming unheated or not heated all the time. Sorry to thread jack. Can bounce to PM.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

Is the frost free hydrant going to be the main water supply to the shop? I am looking to do something similar. Will you be blowing out the lines in the shop fed by the hydrant, to sink, etc... in the winter? Assuming unheated or not heated all the time. Sorry to thread jack. Can bounce to PM.

Yes, it is the main and only water supply to the building. Pretty common around here.
The building will be heated all year.
I have the interior and exterior water lines plumbed with isolation valves and quick-connect air fittings.
I can and plan to isolate and blow down the exterior water lines in the winter while leaving interior water lines on.
Should I decide to turn off the heat, I can also shut off the hydrant, drain the water heater and blow down all the lines.