The poor-boy workaround for crappy flare nut wrenches is to squeeze them with a large pair of vise-grips while you loosen the fitting to stop them from spreading.can't help but can say i just threw out my harbor freight set. Tried using several times over the years and piece of **** just flexed.
SnapOn. There is no other worth mentioning.
I really don't know, I haven't tried them. I have bought SnapOns used for less than the new Williams would cost.Are the USA made Williams equally good?
I’m going to go against popular opinion and say I have several 70’s Craftsman wrenches 1/4. thru 11/16 that served me well at home for a lot of years doing side jobs when my Snap-on wrench’s were at work.
The smaller sizes did a lot of brake line work and the 5/8 wrench did a couple hundred tune ups over the years with no problems I remember.
I do know I never rounded off a GM Quadra jet fuel line fitting while changing a fuel filter, nor found a fitting I couldn’t loosen while doing a tuneup, with the 5/8” Craftsman line wrench.USA made Craftsman line wrenches are what made me buy Snap Ons. Those pieces of **** weren't worth the energy it took to get them out of the drawer.
I do this even with my Snap-On flare nut wrenches, I figure it saves stress on the wrench and minimizes the chance of rounding off the fitting.The poor-boy workaround for crappy flare nut wrenches is to squeeze them with a large pair of vise-grips while you loosen the fitting to stop them from spreading.
I've done the vice grip thing more than one time when things were starting to go south. It works!The poor-boy workaround for crappy flare nut wrenches is to squeeze them with a large pair of vise-grips while you loosen the fitting to stop them from spreading.
I have kept using my Harbor Freight set and doing this rather than purchasing a decent set from Snap-On because I am notoriously cheap and rarely need line wrenches. It is not a realistic solution for a professional mechanic.
It's about time we had another thread about these.What absolute MUST sizes do you all look for in SAE and metric sets?
Mostly would be plumbing/HVAC and automotive use but I'm finding a lot of "missing" sizes from sets I have.
Add a 14, 15, 17 and a 19mm and you got it covered for the aircooled stuff.For the old VW Type 1 and the Porsche 914 it was an 11mm.
Almost impossible to do a direct comparison since once a nut is removed it's removed but this sounds to me like that 1% extra you gain by spending the stupid extra money on the Snap-on.I work on cars in Texas so no rust. I honestly don't even own a metric flare nut set and I get by just fine! I do have a set of Proto SAE but what I have found is they will still round off any really corroded flare nuts on classic vehicles.
On late model vehicles 25 years old and newer I have never rounded off a flare nut with an open ended wrench.
And a 7mm if you want to use one on the brake bleeder.Add a 14, 15, 17 and a 19mm and you got it covered for the aircooled stuff.
My biggest issue today isn't with rounding the nut off it's with the nut being corroded to the brake line. I deal with this on Dodge Trucks a lot where I brake the nut loose then notice the hard line is flexing with the nut. I try soaking them in oil and everything and nothing ever seems to work!Almost impossible to do a direct comparison since once a nut is removed it's removed but this sounds to me like that 1% extra you gain by spending the stupid extra money on the Snap-on.
The fitment and lack of spread keeps the grip nice and tight.
There are varying levels of corrosion though so if it basically has no integrity left it won't matter what wrench you try, you're in vise grip territory.
Ah yeah. No wrench can fix that. PB Blaster seems to work for me.My biggest issue today isn't with rounding the nut off it's with the nut being corroded to the brake line. I deal with this on Dodge Trucks a lot where I brake the nut loose then notice the hard line is flexing with the nut. I try soaking them in oil and everything and nothing ever seems to work!
I do know I never rounded off a GM Quadra jet fuel line fitting while changing a fuel filter, nor found a fitting I couldn’t loosen while doing a tuneup, with the 5/8” Craftsman line wrench.
YMMV
Mac USA are every bit as good (and even slightly better according to TTC's testing). Having metrics in Snap On and SAE in Mac, both are every bit as good as each other.SnapOn. There is no other worth mentioning.
Heat works.My biggest issue today isn't with rounding the nut off it's with the nut being corroded to the brake line. I deal with this on Dodge Trucks a lot where I brake the nut loose then notice the hard line is flexing with the nut. I try soaking them in oil and everything and nothing ever seems to work!
Mac USA are every bit as good (and even slightly better according to TTC's testing). Having metrics in Snap On and SAE in Mac, both are every bit as good as each other.
Hmmm... I will have to watch that episode again. I don't anyone rating anything higher than Snap On.
I know TTC rated the Milwaukee at #3. I don't remember #2, maybe it was MAC.
Not sure if those numbers have been updated at any point since whatever episode that was I watched.
That being said, I traded my Snap On back to my dealer in 2023. I just found myself never using them. I have the Milwaukee set and feel comfortable that the 1 time I might need them, they should do the job.
I've had also had the Gearwrench set in the past, but again don't think I ever used them, and that was when I was still working in a shop.
On-topic; in the automotive world flare nut wrenches are mainly used for brake lines/bleeder screws which are smaller sizes. I know they can also be used on power steering lines and transmission fluid cooler lines as well, which are generally larger. I think a standard set from 8mm to 19mm would be sufficient if you actually need/use them.