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Above 1200 Sq/FT The Suburban Working Garage in VA...now building the Highland House in the Teton Valley

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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Nolift911

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While I haven't commented on your thread here before, the only comment I'd offer for now is to never rely on heat tapes to fully protect pipes from freezing in brutal winters such as you will experience in the Tetons area. The reason? Power failures! All it takes is a day without power and pipes in vulnerable walls will freeze. If you have planned a whole house home generator, then maybe, but if you aren't there when the failure occurs, then the pipes will still be vulnerable. I'd suggest turning off the water supply when not there to prevent massive flooding. A neighbor of mine here in Chesterfield, VA suffered over $200k in damage a few years back while they were on vacation in Hilton Head. A toilet supply pipe on the second floor froze and burst. The water ran for over a day before a neighbor and I discovered a 10 foot long icicle hanging from a window, water in the house was several inches deep. Took more than 6 months to repair the damage. ou only have to see something like this once to understand why your builder and others here recommend to never put pipes, even insulated ones in an exterior wall. And that is my .02.....

Good points! Most of the stuff in the house is gas/propane with regard to heat and then electric back-up for heat. But yeah for heat tape - the power does go out. I will say the main access road is called powerline road - no trees in sight and from the locals "power outages are rare - (and a treat") Whatever that means...

I need to figure out what all this stuff does...

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cccoltsicehockey

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So I am a Google guy - not an Apple guy. :cool: I need to get on the Ubiquiti site and design a system for myself.
Haha, I hear you. Same here. I have been team Nexus/Pixel since the beginning, almost. Was slightly limited on Verizon since the newtork wasn't open. Came from the original Windows Mobile. Can't do the Apple garden. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Nolift911

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Haha, I hear you. Same here. I have been team Nexus/Pixel since the beginning, almost. Was slightly limited on Verizon since the newtork wasn't open. Came from the original Windows Mobile. Can't do the Apple garden. :ROFLMAO:

Yeah old school software developer here - never got on the Apple train. Have had brushes over the years with needing two phones for work and one was an iPhone but I am a Droid guy through and through. I am the odd man out at my house...I pay for 3 Apples and 1 Droid :cool:

Jeff I see long nights curled up by the fire with a bourbon and owners manuals for all your fancy house tech in your future.

For real - looking forward to that - although these days my bourbon collection is taking a tremendous hit so hopefully there will be bourbon to drink at the end of this odyssey.

Does he need the fire because he can’t figure out how to turn the lights on?

Ha - yes definitely. Which reminds me the builder was asking about fireplaces and one had a gas "starter" but takes logs as in wood...not sure how that works. More to learn.

In other news I we made it back east successfully with no drama which is good - or great. Dogs did great and the LR4 got another 5000 miles with zero issues - coming up on 180k fast. Time for an oil change and a good cleaning. Will be nice to be able to rotate some of the other trucks in the mix once the house is done.

The ability to lower and raise the suspension for the dogs is a big help in getting them in and out of the car - full sqaut.

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If you are ever in Davenport, Iowa and need a good spot for grub hit Cheesy Cow - Jalapeno, bacon mac and cheese on a cold day is the bomb and then some Hurts Donut for the rest of the drive.

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Before we left caught one more sunset - always tough to leave.

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Lost a trail camera - stopped reporting and went to investigate before we left and it was full of water - not happy about that Tactacam!! Probably will not replace and soldier on until the end with just two now.

Dogs after the 5k journey -

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Thinking about a haircut for the New year...? Maybe.

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Also people were asking about social media - I have an account on Instagram for the house (try to keep updated) @tetonhighlandhouse for those that follow.
 
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Nolift911

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So I will take "other things you didn't think you needed to worry about category" for $100 Alex...

I think my builder is getting testy with me - between me and my better half it is like good cop bad cop...

Builder says - what do you want to do about trim? I think I mentioned the need to purchase doors and I was steered away from all 10 foot doors for cost reasons, which is fine. We do have a number of interior 10 foot doors and most exterior are 10 foot.

So for windows and doors and baseboards. Kerfed, not kerfed, base, floating base, no base trim...? WFT?

For example this was how things were trimmed at the house we were staying at - I think they call this kerfed doors - AKA no trim:

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From what I have researched and read you typically do not do base with these - or you do floating base - again a whole other cost level.

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The primary issue is all of the windows that are floor to ceiling - so no base on those which is pretty much everywhere...so how do you trim this stuff out?

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I think running base up to these might look odd with a terminus? More to think about...

I did not realize that 10 foot doors have 6 hinges vs. 3 or 4 for a larger door - I just figured they would be larger and more robust. Hard to tell in the is pic but there a 6 hinges on every 10 foot door.

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I did crawl around the attic a bit when I was out there...

Heat and A/C unit for the house - there should be the same setup for the garage...although my builder and I are going round and round on cost for that...also noted that this house will have "Kramer" stamped on it until its demise :ROFLMAO:

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Which brings me to another round and round topic - access points to the attic. I hate those in living spaces. So there is one in the utility room, I get that, but there will be one in the second office which is right by the "shed" or room off of the garage - why not put it there?

"well that is flat roof" - ok then where else? "You want full HVAC in the garage"...compromises.

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Nolift911

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Sunset looks fantastic, but you can't just mention jalapeno, bacon, mac and chease and not provide a picture of said delicacy.

Just keep letting the hair rock till the house is complete haha.

Truths - apologies...that glob of goodness is not just sour cream but butter and honey infused as well. Comes with cornbread - not pictured :cool:

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For the hair - I spend a fair amount of time at the Pentagon (where everything is "high and tight") so when a 4 star refers to you as "the guy with the hair" it may be time for a trim. Also, given the rate of the house progress...the hair may need its own zip code at the end of that. :ROFLMAO:
 

fouckhest

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For the hair - I spend a fair amount of time at the Pentagon (where everything is "high and tight") so when a 4 star refers to you as "the guy with the hair" it may be time for a trim. Also, given the rate of the house progress...the hair may need its own zip code at the end of that. :ROFLMAO:

As a WFH guy that travels enough for work, I like rocking either the log hair and trimmed beard or as you say, high and tight and a mountain man beard! LOL

Plus, being "known" has it pros and cons, I like the stand out in a sea of same, remember that 4star general puts his pants on the same way as everyone else.
 

GRN96WS6

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cccoltsicehockey

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As a WFH guy that travels enough for work, I like rocking either the log hair and trimmed beard or as you say, high and tight and a mountain man beard! LOL

Plus, being "known" has it pros and cons, I like the stand out in a sea of same, remember that 4star general puts his pants on the same way as everyone else.
That mac and cheese looks damn amazing. I was all set to love the above post because of it, but the last segment definitely required the laugh.

I grew my hair out for the first time ever just before COVID and during COVID it got even longer. Now it doesn't get trimmed till it gets into my shirt collar these days which is when I start to find it annoying.
 
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cccoltsicehockey

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So I will take "other things you didn't think you needed to worry about category" for $100 Alex...

I think my builder is getting testy with me - between me and my better half it is like good cop bad cop...

Builder says - what do you want to do about trim? I think I mentioned the need to purchase doors and I was steered away from all 10 foot doors for cost reasons, which is fine. We do have a number of interior 10 foot doors and most exterior are 10 foot.

So for windows and doors and baseboards. Kerfed, not kerfed, base, floating base, no base trim...? WFT?

For example this was how things were trimmed at the house we were staying at - I think they call this kerfed doors - AKA no trim:

PXL_20251231_153119702.jpg

From what I have researched and read you typically do not do base with these - or you do floating base - again a whole other cost level.

PXL_20251231_153111593.jpg

PXL_20251231_153114772.jpg

The primary issue is all of the windows that are floor to ceiling - so no base on those which is pretty much everywhere...so how do you trim this stuff out?

PXL_20251225_192514486.jpg

PXL_20251225_185652658.jpg

I think running base up to these might look odd with a terminus? More to think about...

I did not realize that 10 foot doors have 6 hinges vs. 3 or 4 for a larger door - I just figured they would be larger and more robust. Hard to tell in the is pic but there a 6 hinges on every 10 foot door.

PXL_20251225_190051532.jpg

I did crawl around the attic a bit when I was out there...

Heat and A/C unit for the house - there should be the same setup for the garage...although my builder and I are going round and round on cost for that...also noted that this house will have "Kramer" stamped on it until its demise :ROFLMAO:

PXL_20251225_190335281.jpg

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Which brings me to another round and round topic - access points to the attic. I hate those in living spaces. So there is one in the utility room, I get that, but there will be one in the second office which is right by the "shed" or room off of the garage - why not put it there?

"well that is flat roof" - ok then where else? "You want full HVAC in the garage"...compromises.

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I almost responded to this with more network talk until I finally realized you were talking about attic access and not access points :ROFLMAO:
 

fouckhest

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That mac and cheese looks damn amazing. I was all set to love the above post because of it, but the last segment definitely required the laugh.

I grew my hair out for the first time ever just before COVID and during COVID it got even longer. Now it doesn't get trimmed till it gets into my shirt collar these days which is when I start to find it annoying.
Funny @cccoltsicehockey same story, to a T, then shaved my head spring 2024 and then a couple times that summer, I think that was the last time and now my hair is getting to the collar point, which is annoying, but it works out b/c its time for a trim before tradeshow season.
 

DeeDubz

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I dabble as a semi professional barber if you're interested. But I only do one style, shaved w/o the guard. It's less maintenance try it sometime. Early into my career I used to have spiky hair. My hair would get all jacked putting on my helmet or headset for the engine. After a few years I gave up. Wife was pissed at first but she got over it. Also I gave you a follow on IG. My handle is the same as its on here or pretty close to. Nice build... hopefully theres more build on the bourbon side as well.
 
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Nolift911

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As a WFH guy that travels enough for work, I like rocking either the log hair and trimmed beard or as you say, high and tight and a mountain man beard! LOL

Plus, being "known" has it pros and cons, I like the stand out in a sea of same, remember that 4star general puts his pants on the same way as everyone else.

Indeed - lots of brass at Pentagon. I am just a lowly contractor. :ROFLMAO: Speaking of... anyone follow this:
Kinda funny but not funny..

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Well its not always bad to be recognized by a 4 Star!

Also, did someone say bourbon collection?
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This is at one of my golf buddies house. He hosts an after Christmas party each year that also includes a bourbon tasting. This is only part of his stash.

That is a collection - lots of good stuff there. Everyone has their thing - love the Weller and Col. Taylor, Old Fitz. Never was a Roses guy, not sure why.


Thanks - I headed over there for a sip or two...:sneaky:

That mac and cheese looks damn amazing. I was all set to love the above post because of it, but the last segment definitely required the laugh.

I grew my hair out for the first time ever just before COVID and during COVID it got even longer. Now it doesn't get trimmed till it gets into my shirt collar these days which is when I start to find it annoying.

Ah the COVID days...no personal hygiene and camera time was not always required. :ROFLMAO:

I almost responded to this with more network talk until I finally realized you were talking about attic access and not access points :ROFLMAO:

I need to build my Ubiquiti layout. I am talking to a local network/AV guy on Friday.

Gas starter for a wood burning fireplace is just one gas outlet placed under the wood grate height. You turn the gas on and ignite it and it burns constantly until gas is shut off. Easy way to get your logs started, don't need paper or other starter stuff.

Ah - ok, so I was thinking like a gas ignitor or pilot - if it is a full on burner until the wood gets going I can see that.

Funny @cccoltsicehockey same story, to a T, then shaved my head spring 2024 and then a couple times that summer, I think that was the last time and now my hair is getting to the collar point, which is annoying, but it works out b/c its time for a trim before tradeshow season.

Collar length is getting long - issue is for me some parts grow faster than others and you don't want to get to "pseudo-mullet" territory for meetings. During COVID I would just hack off an inch in the rear and quarters to keep it tight. :cool:

Maybe think about adding catwalks now in the attic so you don’t have to hop from joist to joist in the future? Not sure what you are doing for insulation

There are some up there - but most is covered in equipment. There really is not much pitch area to the house for room and the garage has the largest volume but no attic there to speak of.

I dabble as a semi professional barber if you're interested. But I only do one style, shaved w/o the guard. It's less maintenance try it sometime. Early into my career I used to have spiky hair. My hair would get all jacked putting on my helmet or headset for the engine. After a few years I gave up. Wife was pissed at first but she got over it. Also I gave you a follow on IG. My handle is the same as its on here or pretty close to. Nice build... hopefully theres more build on the bourbon side as well.

Ha - yeah that is really high and tight. I will say I did pick up one of these:


Really good for the beard - super fine, super tight lines. Where was this when I was doing my "skin tight fade" and listening to Vanilla Ice in college?

Anyway - say one good thing about a Rover and it bites you - LR4 sat for a few days in the driveway and noticed some droopage or "shrinkage" - however - you want to look at it. About 100k on the front bags so maybe they are due.

Need to get fixed ASAP or the compressor will run endlessly and kill itself which is more $$ - could also be the valve block o-rings...I might checkbook this just to get it done. Down on time and space for full suspension diag and repairs.

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In other news, working through house stuff. Tracking garage doors that have fallen into the ether from CA to ID - "so you lost them?"

My wet room in the bathroom and steam. This is a room where everything wet happens. Was supposed to have steam although my builder says the Pella window in there with painted wood trim will not handle it - then fix that?

Old man needs steam so we will see who wins. Again, all of us talked about that for years. Going to do can lights over the loft in the garage instead of the high bays an dimmers. Rest of garage gets high bays - still deciding on which ones.

I did take some pics based on the house renders and where things sit to a before and after comparison - I will get those posted up next.

Here is my other part time job these days...some kinda fresh hell this is...more on that later.

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Speaking of bourbon - anyone ever see a bottle of BT in 1.75 like this shape? Its not the fatty round style that is typical for a 1.75.

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Anyone headed to the Rolex this year - I re-upped since a missed last year with everything going on. Wanted to go this year so I pulled the trigger:

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Life is short - do the things.

Serenity now. Time for a pour.

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Nolift911

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Never seen that shape for the 1.75L of buffalo, odd. The pizza tracker is funny and people invest a lot of time in it, it seems haha.

***** about the BMW and LR, esp in this cold if it can be indoors work.
In all my years have never seen it - new, old or other? All I know is it was a gift from a co-worker from a liquor store in DC.

Need much more bourbon for the BMW conversation or updates...been wrangling with insurance companies now about that car for 9 months and just starting on this round.
 
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GRN96WS6

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In all my years have never seen it - new, old or other? All I know is it was a gift from a co-worker from a liquor store in DC.

Need much more bourbon for the BMW conversation or updates...been wrangling with insurance companies now about that car for 9 months and just starting on this round.
Insurance is THE WORST! Pay pay pay, but they rarely live up to their end of the bargain.

It's a new shape per the googs to fit in bars better which makes sense.
 

cccoltsicehockey

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Sorry to hear about the LR and the BMW. That is awful to have to fight with the insurance company for that long.

It has been over a year in some way or shape that I have been running my hyperlite high bays and they have been great so far. Really happy with my Lotus high output recessed as well, but so many options in that spectrum.

Look forward to hearing how your meeting with the network guy on Friday goes.
 
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Nolift911

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Insurance is THE WORST! Pay pay pay, but they rarely live up to their end of the bargain.

It's a new shape per the googs to fit in bars better which makes sense.

Thanks and the bottle shape makes sense!

Sorry to hear about the LR and the BMW. That is awful to have to fight with the insurance company for that long.

It has been over a year in some way or shape that I have been running my hyperlite high bays and they have been great so far. Really happy with my Lotus high output recessed as well, but so many options in that spectrum.

Look forward to hearing how your meeting with the network guy on Friday goes.

Missed the network guy but spent some time on the Ubiquiti designer - WiFi

WiFi.jpg

Security

Security.jpg

This needs to be tweaked a bit but its a start - for drops.
 

Clemson13

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Thanks and the bottle shape makes sense!



Missed the network guy but spent some time on the Ubiquiti designer - WiFi

WiFi.jpg

Security

Security.jpg

This needs to be tweaked a bit but its a start - for drops.
Makes me happy to see you are going with 4 APs and will have stellar coverage everywhere. I figured that those would well distributed locations with your floorplan. :rocker:

On the camera front, consider a hardwired POE doorbell cam from Ubiquity as well, I have been a fan of mine. You also may want to mount a camera on the back corner of the garage facing forward so you have coverage over your big garage windows. It would also be neat to mount a camera under the floating room facing out (i think over the gap in coverage you have on the right of the layout).

Edit: now that I think of it a camera under the floating room may end up buried in a snow drift every winter and become useless?:lol:
 

badonk

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Thanks and the bottle shape makes sense!



Missed the network guy but spent some time on the Ubiquiti designer - WiFi



Security



This needs to be tweaked a bit but its a start - for drops.

Looking good! AP placement - no WiFi deadspots for you. Mine are mostly running and I noticed there's some Wifi AI optimization option to run on the console that analyzes usage data, etc, then makes recommendations for channels to use and other optimzations. I found it when I was trying to get my ecobee thermostats to all cut over to 5 Ghz. They were that way yesterday and then something changed and they all went to 2.4 Ghz.

You'll like the cameras too. I finally had a few more cameras installed today. The AI tracking is pretty cool, picking up trucks arriving and people moving around.
 
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Nolift911

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Makes me happy to see you are going with 4 APs and will have stellar coverage everywhere. I figured that those would well distributed locations with your floorplan. :rocker:

On the camera front, consider a hardwired POE doorbell cam from Ubiquity as well, I have been a fan of mine. You also may want to mount a camera on the back corner of the garage facing forward so you have coverage over your big garage windows. It would also be neat to mount a camera under the floating room facing out (i think over the gap in coverage you have on the right of the layout).

Edit: now that I think of it a camera under the floating room may end up buried in a snow drift every winter and become useless?:lol:

Yes on the doorbell - updated diagram. I was trying to hold with 4 cameras but yes there are gaps - maybe if I get the ones I could move - I could take care of that and fine tune gaps. The other thing is the 2 on the garage are up high - so once they are installed would need help moving or adjusting without a 30 foot sectional. Maybe adjustable for just those two - are those still just PoE or do you need extra power?

new cameras.jpg

Looking good! AP placement - no WiFi deadspots for you. Mine are mostly running and I noticed there's some Wifi AI optimization option to run on the console that analyzes usage data, etc, then makes recommendations for channels to use and other optimzations. I found it when I was trying to get my ecobee thermostats to all cut over to 5 Ghz. They were that way yesterday and then something changed and they all went to 2.4 Ghz.

You'll like the cameras too. I finally had a few more cameras installed today. The AI tracking is pretty cool, picking up trucks arriving and people moving around.

Thermostats are a good topic - which to spec? Will have radiant and HVAC's - not sure how many zones yet. Need to be able to control remotely.

Speakers and other internet drops in diagram below. Red are speakers and green stars are drops for TV's. I assume I need just one drop in the mechanical to run all this shizzo? I also need to understand what other Ubiquiti equipment I need to make all this work. Builder is just on me for insulation and sealing up walls so I want to get wiring done.

speakers and internet.jpg
 

badonk

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For cameras are you wanting 100% perimeter coverage? If so, maybe go for a pan-tilt-zoom (PTZ) camera with tracking. Ubiquiti G6 PTZ. I have some that are up high too and at this point, we'll set it the way I think I want it and hope that's where it needs to be. Otherwise I'm borrowing a 30 ft ladder. Aside from the APs and cameras you choose for Ubiquiti, I'd recommend a dream machine for your cloud gateway and a switch. I did a dream machine pro (cheapest - didn't need the features in the special edition or max version) and a pro max 24 poe switch. That allows 24-32 things to be hard wired in via ethernet. If you have more things to hard wire, buy a switch with more ports. They make tons of switching options just be sure to get a PoE switch - that powers everything you plug into it. I would rack mount the dream machine and switch, with a keystone panel on the rack as well. You may also want something for power management. I threw a cheap UPS in there that everything plugs into. You can check out my build thread for pics of the rack install.

My contractor liked Ecobee thermostats. There are 3 price levels (essential, advanced, and premium). I was told I needed the premium ones whenever I needed to control the separate radiant heat flooring and traditional A/C systems. There were ways to get the less expensive ones to work but it required other equipment that would be more expensive in the long run. I have many radiant heat zones (basically one for every room), but only 3 A/C zones. More A/C zones added a lot of cost and it is something I don't think I'll be using often. Long story short, I used 3 of the premium thermostats, advanced everywhere else to control the remaining radiant heat zones.
 
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Nolift911

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Do you have 'stated value' coverage on the BMW?

Working on it - likely after this round of fixes. I have stated value on my 911 and Defender. I knew I should have it for this as well - its on the list of to-do's.

For cameras are you wanting 100% perimeter coverage? If so, maybe go for a pan-tilt-zoom (PTZ) camera with tracking. Ubiquiti G6 PTZ. I have some that are up high too and at this point, we'll set it the way I think I want it and hope that's where it needs to be. Otherwise I'm borrowing a 30 ft ladder. Aside from the APs and cameras you choose for Ubiquiti, I'd recommend a dream machine for your cloud gateway and a switch. I did a dream machine pro (cheapest - didn't need the features in the special edition or max version) and a pro max 24 poe switch. That allows 24-32 things to be hard wired in via ethernet. If you have more things to hard wire, buy a switch with more ports. They make tons of switching options just be sure to get a PoE switch - that powers everything you plug into it. I would rack mount the dream machine and switch, with a keystone panel on the rack as well. You may also want something for power management. I threw a cheap UPS in there that everything plugs into. You can check out my build thread for pics of the rack install.

My contractor liked Ecobee thermostats. There are 3 price levels (essential, advanced, and premium). I was told I needed the premium ones whenever I needed to control the separate radiant heat flooring and traditional A/C systems. There were ways to get the less expensive ones to work but it required other equipment that would be more expensive in the long run. I have many radiant heat zones (basically one for every room), but only 3 A/C zones. More A/C zones added a lot of cost and it is something I don't think I'll be using often. Long story short, I used 3 of the premium thermostats, advanced everywhere else to control the remaining radiant heat zones.

Yeah as close as I can get - still working on the "security system" that is not all hard wired. Again we will not be there full time for a bit so need something that can keep me apprised of goings on. I installed alarm systems in high school and college so part of me is like go HAM and wire it all - but budget and technology these days makes that not very cost effective.

Cameras will be one part so need to investigate interior options for alarms - lots of glass also.

I didn't know if the PTZ's required additional power over and above POE since motorized.

HVAC control just need to be able to remote monitor - nothing too fancy. I have heard that radiant systems take a while to heat up so it would be nice to fire that up ahead of when we roll in. There is also back up electric fan forced.


In other news my garage doors finally made an appearance after 4 months...kind of anti-climatic. I informed my builder that all of the hardware needs to be powder coated to match the anodized black doors...never heard some of those expletives before.

IMG_20260124_210717.jpg

Couple truckloads of stone showed up also - I don't think they will start this until the weather cooperates.

Screenshot_20260120-153632.png

IMG_20260129_124007.jpg

IMG_20260129_124007 (1).jpg

This stone, along with the siding and garage doors may end the exterior portion of the program - will not be much to see after that is all done and things will move to the interior.

The trades and have been there (plumbing, HVAC and electrical) going on 4ish months now - will be wrapping up soon. Then insulation and drywall. I went through a punch list of items that "needed" to be done before they seal up the house. With the insulation they are using it will be tough to run anything after, wires or plumbing.

Shifting gears - I picked up this pump at home to drain the hot tub, my old pump was cast iron, old, heavy and slow. The specs on this submersible pump indicated to me it should drain my 500 gallon hot tub in 7-10 minutes. I am bad at math. It took about 30 minutes so is that dependent on hose size?

PXL_20260115_170254979.jpg

PXL_20260115_170250608.jpg

Found this last piece of beltline trim for the Volvo in Australia of course...$$

PXL_20260113_224635177.jpg

I think I mentioned the wet room steam saga - all about the window in there. Pella can build a fiberglass custom version to match the other windows for about $5k - the window in there is $5k. Or they can "coat" it with some type of marine grade enamel. Not sure how it was not brought up or came up with Pella.

The other windows that were ordered correctly but made incorrectly are still here. It is the one to the left.

PXL_20251225_192513710.jpg

I think we will upcycle it and put it in the garage/office to go here: This is supposed to be a glass wall from the office to the garage. Should save some $$ and then just need a door either 10 foot or 8 with a transom.

PXL_20251225_185044313.jpg

Builder went up to the property at night with a night vision scope - this was probably 100-200 yards away. Said it was a blend of moose, elk, coyotes and deer.

 
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givemethewillys

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Sep 21, 2009
Messages
173
Location
New Kent, VA
Loving your build and looking forward to seeing it come to fruition! Not many folks responded about your truck question, but I'm going to give it a shot.

So the f150 is definitely going to be more reliable and comfortable, but 100% not as cool. An old bumpside or dentside Ford will absolutely kill it on the cool factor, but will be exponentially more work. If you're about to retire and you enjoy working on vehicles (which I'm confident you do), I think you'll be happier in the long term with the older truck. I personally would someday like to build out a late-70's f250 extended cab, with a godzilla 7.3 and a 6-speed. In blue/white (my dad had an '87 f150 in those colors).

I guess you'll have to really take into consideration your use case; do you strictly want it as a fun, powerful shop truck for getting around town? Or do you want that, but also something to tinker with, that will turn heads everywhere you go?
 
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Nolift911

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Lansdowne, VA
Loving your build and looking forward to seeing it come to fruition! Not many folks responded about your truck question, but I'm going to give it a shot.

So the f150 is definitely going to be more reliable and comfortable, but 100% not as cool. An old bumpside or dentside Ford will absolutely kill it on the cool factor, but will be exponentially more work. If you're about to retire and you enjoy working on vehicles (which I'm confident you do), I think you'll be happier in the long term with the older truck. I personally would someday like to build out a late-70's f250 extended cab, with a godzilla 7.3 and a 6-speed. In blue/white (my dad had an '87 f150 in those colors).

I guess you'll have to really take into consideration your use case; do you strictly want it as a fun, powerful shop truck for getting around town? Or do you want that, but also something to tinker with, that will turn heads everywhere you go?

Thanks!

You pretty much hit the nail on the head. Do I need another project? But late 70's F250 Highboy is what I really want. Lots of companies doing resto mods on those and prices are soaring. I definitely want the patina and the cool factor. New F150 is fast and fun and reliable but still more like an appliance. I need something with no rust, great patina (so I don't need to worry about it) with solid drivetrain so I can just get in and go. It will not be a long hauler just trips around town. If I could do that for $30-40k - I would be happy. Also, would put a plow on the front for winter.
 

cccoltsicehockey

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Messages
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Location
Charlotte, NC
Yes on the doorbell - updated diagram. I was trying to hold with 4 cameras but yes there are gaps - maybe if I get the ones I could move - I could take care of that and fine tune gaps. The other thing is the 2 on the garage are up high - so once they are installed would need help moving or adjusting without a 30 foot sectional. Maybe adjustable for just those two - are those still just PoE or do you need extra power?

new cameras.jpg



Thermostats are a good topic - which to spec? Will have radiant and HVAC's - not sure how many zones yet. Need to be able to control remotely.

Speakers and other internet drops in diagram below. Red are speakers and green stars are drops for TV's. I assume I need just one drop in the mechanical to run all this shizzo? I also need to understand what other Ubiquiti equipment I need to make all this work. Builder is just on me for insulation and sealing up walls so I want to get wiring done.

speakers and internet.jpg
I am late to the party here. Wifi coverage looks good. To me camera coverage is lacking but I went a bit overkill there as well. If you don't care about 360% coverage that is fine. I personally like to see a camera by all main entrance points. I understand for privacy reasons maybe not wanting them outside of sliding doors that are on bedrooms but what about the second person doo on the other side of the main entry front door? I like to be able to watch people as they walk up to doors for hopeful facial recoginition.

I wouldn't mount any cameras 30ft up. I did some 22ft up and highly regret it. They should have been mounted on the walls a max of like 12-13ft off the ground. They even say less than that for best facial rec.

PTZ are really great but I wouldn't leave them on motion tracking unless you also have another camera primarily covering the same area as you could end up with it seeing motion of something you don't care about and missing something you do. I plan to replace 2 of my stationary cameras with them but not for the AI motion tracking abilities but rather the zoom and ability to search for things manually.

POE wise, you could go 16 ProMax for buy once, cry once and be able to power regular and high-power POE devices, no problem.

On your alarm topic. I went with no motion sensors in my house and now the garage. Too many falses in the past at my previous house plus with our dogs at home the motion are terrible with that. I went with glass break sensors in every room and door sensors on every door.
 

kj_mustang

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Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
1,213
Location
Harrisonburg, VA
PTZ camera power needs will depend on the camera and your poe switch. Check the camera specs for required watts and see how many watts your switch can provide. Willing to bet you will need additional power for the PTZs.
 

badonk

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Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
223
PTZ camera power needs will depend on the camera and your poe switch. Check the camera specs for required watts and see how many watts your switch can provide. Willing to bet you will need additional power for the PTZs.
Just to add some more detail here and maybe help guide you through the process...when you buy a PoE switch for a home, there are three major capacities to consider.

1) Throughput - for most of the ubiquiti switches I don't think this would be a concern
2) Ports - how many things do you need to plug in and at what speeds
3) Power - how much total power can the switch provide, and then how many PoE+, ++, or +++ ports you need for the specific devices you plan to run

For example, a G6 PTZ is PoE+ and uses 24.5 watts max whereas a G6 turret is PoE and uses 12.5W and a G6 Bullet is 9.9W. Identify you devices, their power consumption, add it all up, then you know how much power your switch needs.

A Pro Max 16 PoE switch has 180W total power supply with 12 PoE+ and 4 PoE++ ports. If you ran 4 U7 Pro XG access points, those would take up all your PoE++ ports since you want the 2.5 Gb backhaul and they would consume 22W each / 88W total of your 180W capacity - leaving 92W for cameras, etc. Since the PTZs tend to draw more power, you might want a switch with more capacity. Or you could provide power separately with PoE adapters/injectors for the locations the draw a lot. I went with a Pro Max 24 PoE - maybe a little overkill since I'm only drawing 126W from my switch. But in the end my limiting factor was ports. For network, camera, and other things that are up and running now before I've even moved in, I'm using 10 ports. That leaves 14 ports to run to various rooms around the house.

Another thing to note that I think we texted about - many TVs only have 10/100 ethernet ports on them but have 5 ghz wifi capabilities. I didn't know this before I started looking into it recently. So while I had planned to run my TV via wired ethernet because I thought that we be the most reliable and fastest connection, I will actually run it on 5 Ghz Wifi - which will be 5x faster.
 

badonk

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Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
223
Thanks!

You pretty much hit the nail on the head. Do I need another project? But late 70's F250 Highboy is what I really want. Lots of companies doing resto mods on those and prices are soaring. I definitely want the patina and the cool factor. New F150 is fast and fun and reliable but still more like an appliance. I need something with no rust, great patina (so I don't need to worry about it) with solid drivetrain so I can just get in and go. It will not be a long hauler just trips around town. If I could do that for $30-40k - I would be happy. Also, would put a plow on the front for winter.
100% agree on the # of projects and do you need 1 more. You have a lot of projects on the go already so the question is - when will you get them off your plate and just enjoy driving them? Once the Volvo is done that should be pretty reliable - but will you ever actually call it done? And the 911 is super reliable and could be driven across the US and back with zero issues. But something tells me you won't ever call that done either. And the real question around project --- how many rovers are in the fleet? Then again this is all part of the fun. You have enough cars that you'll never be without something that runs. If the Highboy is in the middle of something and not usable, take the Defender. Or the Disco. Alternatively, there's also a lot of fun in a high hp manual trans turn key f150 that you can bomb around in with NFG.
 

cccoltsicehockey

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Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
1,388
Location
Charlotte, NC
Just to add some more detail here and maybe help guide you through the process...when you buy a PoE switch for a home, there are three major capacities to consider.

1) Throughput - for most of the ubiquiti switches I don't think this would be a concern
2) Ports - how many things do you need to plug in and at what speeds
3) Power - how much total power can the switch provide, and then how many PoE+, ++, or +++ ports you need for the specific devices you plan to run

For example, a G6 PTZ is PoE+ and uses 24.5 watts max whereas a G6 turret is PoE and uses 12.5W and a G6 Bullet is 9.9W. Identify you devices, their power consumption, add it all up, then you know how much power your switch needs.

A Pro Max 16 PoE switch has 180W total power supply with 12 PoE+ and 4 PoE++ ports. If you ran 4 U7 Pro XG access points, those would take up all your PoE++ ports since you want the 2.5 Gb backhaul and they would consume 22W each / 88W total of your 180W capacity - leaving 92W for cameras, etc. Since the PTZs tend to draw more power, you might want a switch with more capacity. Or you could provide power separately with PoE adapters/injectors for the locations the draw a lot. I went with a Pro Max 24 PoE - maybe a little overkill since I'm only drawing 126W from my switch. But in the end my limiting factor was ports. For network, camera, and other things that are up and running now before I've even moved in, I'm using 10 ports. That leaves 14 ports to run to various rooms around the house.

Another thing to note that I think we texted about - many TVs only have 10/100 ethernet ports on them but have 5 ghz wifi capabilities. I didn't know this before I started looking into it recently. So while I had planned to run my TV via wired ethernet because I thought that we be the most reliable and fastest connection, I will actually run it on 5 Ghz Wifi - which will be 5x faster.
You make a very good point to consider total power consumption as well as leaving a little overhead for potential future devices. If going to run more cameras than he is currently looking at, or if he goes all G6 PTZ, then he will need more power. A good combo might be the Pro Max 16 and the UDM Pro SE as it would give an additional 180w POE and POE+ where he can run turrets or bullets. It would also give redundancy if the cameras are split between two devices in case of a chance the switch fails. It would actually also end up cheaper than a regular UDM Pro and a Pro Max 24 while having a total POE output that is higher. I think the only reason to go the Pro Max 24 route would be if more POE++ ports are needed.

Because I had a TV kill itself during a firmware update, I no longer put my TVs on the network to use the internal apps. I always suggest people use them as a screen and then use a streaming box, which, if you have it a lot of time have a hardwired connection. Steaming boxes are cheaper to replace than a TV. Many these days are 1000mb but 100mb isn't an issue, though, since 4k doesn't even exhaust that. The only thing that will eventually not be handled by 100mbs is 8k but we are so far away from that it doesn't matter. We can't even get quality 4k sports on a regular basis these days.
 
Last edited:

badonk

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Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
223
Because I had a TV kill itself during a firmware update, I no longer put my TVs on the network to use the internal apps. I always suggest people use them as a screen and then use a streaming box, which, if you have it a lot of time have a hardwired connection. Steaming boxes are cheaper to replace than a TV. Many these days are 1000mb but 100mb isn't an issue, though, since 4k doesn't even exhaust that. The only thing that will eventually not be handled by 100mbs is 8k but we are so far away from that it doesn't matter. We can't even get quality 4k sports on a regular basis these days.
I had Roku and was happy with it for a while. Also makes the UI the same across TVs, simplifying stuff for the wife and guests, so I thought. I used Logitech Harmony remotes also to ensure all remotes work the same. But eventually Roku was a problem. It started skipping/lagging on some content whereas the apps on the TV were just fine. Widely reported by others too. So I've gone to native apps on the TVs themselves and everything is fine. In fact wife and guests find it simpler to just use the standard TV remote, even though on TV is a Sony and another is LG. Going with a big TCL in the new house - considered a UST projector also.
 

cccoltsicehockey

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Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
1,388
Location
Charlotte, NC
I had Roku and was happy with it for a while. Also makes the UI the same across TVs, simplifying stuff for the wife and guests, so I thought. I used Logitech Harmony remotes also to ensure all remotes work the same. But eventually Roku was a problem. It started skipping/lagging on some content whereas the apps on the TV were just fine. Widely reported by others too. So I've gone to native apps on the TVs themselves and everything is fine. In fact wife and guests find it simpler to just use the standard TV remote, even though on TV is a Sony and another is LG. Going with a big TCL in the new house - considered a UST projector also.
I have issue with one of my Rokus but the rest are still problem free. The one that started to be an issue is fine if I reboot it once a month so haven't bothered to replace it yet. I actually went with GoogleTV devices in the garage. They seem to work better with a secondary device for audio. Some of the newer Rokus do from what I have been told but all of my Rokus are 7-8 years old now. I also like that the GoogleTV devices can run a VPN app which comes in handy for certain things.
 
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Nolift911

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Lansdowne, VA
I am late to the party here. Wifi coverage looks good. To me camera coverage is lacking but I went a bit overkill there as well. If you don't care about 360% coverage that is fine. I personally like to see a camera by all main entrance points. I understand for privacy reasons maybe not wanting them outside of sliding doors that are on bedrooms but what about the second person doo on the other side of the main entry front door? I like to be able to watch people as they walk up to doors for hopeful facial recoginition.

I wouldn't mount any cameras 30ft up. I did some 22ft up and highly regret it. They should have been mounted on the walls a max of like 12-13ft off the ground. They even say less than that for best facial rec.

PTZ are really great but I wouldn't leave them on motion tracking unless you also have another camera primarily covering the same area as you could end up with it seeing motion of something you don't care about and missing something you do. I plan to replace 2 of my stationary cameras with them but not for the AI motion tracking abilities but rather the zoom and ability to search for things manually.

POE wise, you could go 16 ProMax for buy once, cry once and be able to power regular and high-power POE devices, no problem.

On your alarm topic. I went with no motion sensors in my house and now the garage. Too many falses in the past at my previous house plus with our dogs at home the motion are terrible with that. I went with glass break sensors in every room and door sensors on every door.

Yeah so the drops were a tussle - "way more than we had discussed" via the builder. Plus cost wise for the cameras I get decent coverage and I can adjust angles to fine tune. Was not really a privacy issue just a what can I get away with without a lot of noise.

Agreed on the mount high - but some areas not much choice unless I want them hanging off a wall, which I think would look bad. I currently have 4 cameras mounted up about 40 feet at my townhouse - it's a set and forget type deal without a sectional.

So the electrician pulled Cat6 so that is good. I can deal with the switches later. I did not budget for $10k in LAN/Security gear and $10k for speaker/sound gear - so that may be a baby step thing. LAN first, obviously.

This Ring camera has been hanging tough - literally with a massive icicle on it. I need to find a away to defeat the icicle without it tearing down the camera. It is about 35 feet-ish up

PXL_20260202_151915518.jpg

And this one - massive. Hopefully the gutter hangs on.

PXL_20260202_151911721.jpg
PTZ camera power needs will depend on the camera and your poe switch. Check the camera specs for required watts and see how many watts your switch can provide. Willing to bet you will need additional power for the PTZs.

Right - my initial concern was the cable if CAT 5/6 is capable regardless of power demand.

Just to add some more detail here and maybe help guide you through the process...when you buy a PoE switch for a home, there are three major capacities to consider.

1) Throughput - for most of the ubiquiti switches I don't think this would be a concern
2) Ports - how many things do you need to plug in and at what speeds
3) Power - how much total power can the switch provide, and then how many PoE+, ++, or +++ ports you need for the specific devices you plan to run

For example, a G6 PTZ is PoE+ and uses 24.5 watts max whereas a G6 turret is PoE and uses 12.5W and a G6 Bullet is 9.9W. Identify you devices, their power consumption, add it all up, then you know how much power your switch needs.

A Pro Max 16 PoE switch has 180W total power supply with 12 PoE+ and 4 PoE++ ports. If you ran 4 U7 Pro XG access points, those would take up all your PoE++ ports since you want the 2.5 Gb backhaul and they would consume 22W each / 88W total of your 180W capacity - leaving 92W for cameras, etc. Since the PTZs tend to draw more power, you might want a switch with more capacity. Or you could provide power separately with PoE adapters/injectors for the locations the draw a lot. I went with a Pro Max 24 PoE - maybe a little overkill since I'm only drawing 126W from my switch. But in the end my limiting factor was ports. For network, camera, and other things that are up and running now before I've even moved in, I'm using 10 ports. That leaves 14 ports to run to various rooms around the house.

Another thing to note that I think we texted about - many TVs only have 10/100 ethernet ports on them but have 5 ghz wifi capabilities. I didn't know this before I started looking into it recently. So while I had planned to run my TV via wired ethernet because I thought that we be the most reliable and fastest connection, I will actually run it on 5 Ghz Wifi - which will be 5x faster.

I will have to calculate for the switch - again, was trying to carve out wiring for the electrician since they want inspections done, insulation, then drywall. I need to figure out fireplaces and cabinets next.

So good research on the TV - I still ran cable to them but will check the specs. Likely a 90" for the family room and slightly smaller for the bedroom. I need to figure out motion/refresh rates for TV's that size. The 75" Samsung I got last year is ok - not great for sports/racing etc. Movies are fine in 4k so might not be the TV's fault.

100% agree on the # of projects and do you need 1 more. You have a lot of projects on the go already so the question is - when will you get them off your plate and just enjoy driving them? Once the Volvo is done that should be pretty reliable - but will you ever actually call it done? And the 911 is super reliable and could be driven across the US and back with zero issues. But something tells me you won't ever call that done either. And the real question around project --- how many rovers are in the fleet? Then again this is all part of the fun. You have enough cars that you'll never be without something that runs. If the Highboy is in the middle of something and not usable, take the Defender. Or the Disco. Alternatively, there's also a lot of fun in a high hp manual trans turn key f150 that you can bomb around in with NFG.

I just need to get motivated to tidy these projects up before they head west. Dreaming about a heated/cooled garage with endless space/lifts for projects won't get things done now. Weather is **** here so moving stuff around is hard - and the garage is packed. I did set an internal rule for myself in terms of all vehicles need to be driven west vs. trailer even the FZ6 :ROFLMAO: so that is motivating.

You make a very good point to consider total power consumption as well as leaving a little overhead for potential future devices. If going to run more cameras than he is currently looking at, or if he goes all G6 PTZ, then he will need more power. A good combo might be the Pro Max 16 and the UDM Pro SE as it would give an additional 180w POE and POE+ where he can run turrets or bullets. It would also give redundancy if the cameras are split between two devices in case of a chance the switch fails. It would actually also end up cheaper than a regular UDM Pro and a Pro Max 24 while having a total POE output that is higher. I think the only reason to go the Pro Max 24 route would be if more POE++ ports are needed.

Because I had a TV kill itself during a firmware update, I no longer put my TVs on the network to use the internal apps. I always suggest people use them as a screen and then use a streaming box, which, if you have it a lot of time have a hardwired connection. Steaming boxes are cheaper to replace than a TV. Many these days are 1000mb but 100mb isn't an issue, though, since 4k doesn't even exhaust that. The only thing that will eventually not be handled by 100mbs is 8k but we are so far away from that it doesn't matter. We can't even get quality 4k sports on a regular basis these days.

You can always add another switch right? Do they fail? Wonder if they will do the Superbowl in 4k, I think they did last year?

Roku devices are ridiculously cheap and work great, especially compared to the soon-obsolete software in TVs (that are probably spying on you as well).

Yes have 4 of them - using the memory cards also helps IMO. I do reboot them every once in a while since I don't feel they are good on that on their own without a power down or they pick inopportune times to reboot - when they start getting squirrely its time for a reboot.

I have issue with one of my Rokus but the rest are still problem free. The one that started to be an issue is fine if I reboot it once a month so haven't bothered to replace it yet. I actually went with GoogleTV devices in the garage. They seem to work better with a secondary device for audio. Some of the newer Rokus do from what I have been told but all of my Rokus are 7-8 years old now. I also like that the GoogleTV devices can run a VPN app which comes in handy for certain things.

I might look into the Google TV device.

In other news the battle of the "Snowcrete" continues almost two weeks later. I am on the HOA board and folks are getting heated. :rolleyes:

In our neighborhood part of it is VDOT snow removal and part is private contractor. VDOT never showed up. People don't understand that in a once in a 10 year storm VDOT are trying to keep major arteries open. I drove from Leesburg VA to DC the other day and it is sketch, everywhere. 3 lanes at 70MPH suddenly reduce to 1 single file trail that looked like a 5 year shoveled - be patient. Conditions are still bad all over. You can't move this stuff with a plow you need heavy equipment, even Bobcats with treads are having a tough time.

Issue is/was it snowed about 8-10" in most areas, some got a foot or more but the tail end of the storm was ice - like 3 to 4 inches of ice which made it concrete to move, then temps never budged.

@cccoltsicehockey was looking at your plow pics and wondering how your setup would have worked here?

I was out shoveling (still) this past weekend and talked with this guy for a bit. Hard to tell in the picture but he had a wad of tissue stuffed up his nose and still bleeding. He said he had the cab window cracked for air and a piece of ice flew in and smacked him on the face. Whole cab was ****** but he soldiered on. He had been working double shifts for 10 days.

PXL_20260128_185105912.jpg

Poor guy was like "can you just tell your HOA we are doing the best we can - I know there are tons of complaints and it falls on us"

Yes! I can do that -

Screenshot_20260129-174543.png

Anyway the Karen's are rampaging - temps here never got above freezing since the storm hit and lows in the single digits, schools closed for 8 days - even this week all/most schools on a two hour delay for the rest of the week.
 
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