What type of drywall should I use? 5/8, 1/2? Moisture resistant?

[MelvinManiac]

Ceilings are 24" oc.

I'll be having blown in insulation (R38) in the attic after the drywall is hung.

It's detached and there are no permits/inspections... So, I can use whatever I'd like. Just want to make sure it won't sag on the ceiling and I don't want to worry about mold. It'll be somewhat climate controlled, but still...would prefer mold-resistant if there are no tradeoffs.

I had one guy tell me not to use mold-resistant drywall on the ceiling because it's heavier and will sag. No idea if it's true. It's also hard to find in 5/8".

Pretty much everyone told me that 1/2" would be fine for the ceiling, and mold resistant wasn't necessary, but figured I'd ask here also for some outside opinions.

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

5/8 isn’t that much more and is better

Stronger, more sound resistant etc

 

[PoorUB]

1/2" will sag over time, especially with the weight of insulation.

 

[LXCam]

Even though you’re not having it inspected I still suggest 5/8” type X all the way around and maintain a rated envelope. You don’t need green board for this area imo.

Nice garage btw!

 

[PCustoms]

In the Northeast we always strap a ceiling, mine (attached) is 16" O.C. and I used 5/8" drywall as it's below occupied space. Otherwise would have been 1/2" lightweight or something entirely different.

Have you considered metal liner panel?

 

[Skiff Builder]

That will be a nice space you'll have!
Used double 5/8 Type X @ 16o.c. (by code) in mine. Live next to salt water/high humidity. Only heat space when working in it. 10 years on, no issues at all.
Are you hanging/taping it yourself?

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, 5/8" Drywall is more Fire Resistant than 1/2".

 

[jkuro]

What PC said.

 

[MelvinManiac]

That will be a nice space you'll have!
Used double 5/8 Type X @ 16o.c. (by code) in mine. Live next to salt water/high humidity. Only heat space when working in it. 10 years on, no issues at all.
Are you hanging/taping it yourself?

Hell no!! Ive done sheetrock before. This would take me the whole summer to do on my own.. No way Im doing it.

Got quotes ranging from $7k to $14k.. Choosing the contractor with the smallest criminal record.

 

[eviltwin]

Anymore pics of the build? Looks like a nice place!

As asked before, have you considered steel?

 

[NUTTSGT]

Hell no!! Ive done sheetrock before. This would take me the whole summer to do on my own.. No way Im doing it.

Got quotes ranging from $7k to $14k.. Choosing the contractor with the smallest criminal record.

If you can hang drywall, you can hang steel....one and done. Save those $$$ for a lift, tools or other things.

 

[loganb]

24" OC usually goes 5/8"

Steel liner panel could make this a pretty easy DIY job...though if you want drywall agree with paying for it to be done. A couple guys would fly thru that. Around here that would be an easy cash job for the crews to do nights or weekends after the normal work is done

 

[tarmy]

5/8 or you will get some sag over time with that insulation and building movement.

 

[Rusted Nut]

You can get 1/2” “ceiling board”, which is more resistant to sag than regular 1/2”. Millions of buildings have regular 1/2” on the ceiling though. 5/8” Type X definitely preferable for fire, especially if you’re welding.

 

[PCustoms]

You can get 1/2” “ceiling board”, which is more resistant to sag than regular 1/2”. Millions of buildings have regular 1/2” on the ceiling though. 5/8” Type X definitely preferable for fire, especially if you’re welding.

Never heard of it being more sad resistant, have heard ( and felt lol) it's lighter

 

[finn]

Steel, especially if it isn’t conditioned.

 

[JohnX14]

In the Northeast we always strap a ceiling, mine (attached) is 16" O.C. and I used 5/8" drywall as it's below occupied space. Otherwise would have been 1/2" lightweight or something entirely different.

Have you considered metal liner panel?

Exactly what I was going to say, aside from the liner panel. (not that I disagree with looking into the panels) We "strap" ceilings here. (pretty unique to central MA, wasn't aware that VT picked up that practice - though I have limite VT experience...) Lots of advantages, and quick and cheap. In the OP, the span decreases (obviously) to 16", eliminating the sag, and also ties the trusses together to make a much more stable ceiling.

As far as other postings:

As far as 5/8 type X in a detached garage, I don't see the need/ advantage. It'll slow the burn, but it isn't saving lives. If you're in the garage - get out. If you're not there, and there is a fire, you saved a half hour or so to the burning demolition.

Sag resistance isn't well quantified or defined. If it gets damp, of course it'll sag more over a longer span. It shouldn't get compromised. It isn't a damp location, so "greenboard" serves no purpose, IMO.

I have a 24 x 24 detached, with blueboard and plaster. strapping 16" o.c. full storage above with stairs and TJI 560's 16 oc. 5/8 does nothing in this application over 1/2". There is no required fire resistance rating.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Another vote for steel. No painting, ever...

 

[MelvinManiac]

Another vote for steel. No painting, ever...

Yea, but it's going to be a somewhat climate controlled garage that could be converted to living space in the future. Not sure who I'd get to install it and how sealed up it would really be climate control purposes. Although another big plus for steel is there is no taping/mud work.

I think I'm just going to see if we can go with 5/8 standard (white board) for the whole garage... Give me the best chance against sagging and cracks I supposed.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Yea, but it's going to be a somewhat climate controlled garage that could be converted to living space in the future. Not sure who I'd get to install it and how sealed up it would really be climate control purposes. Although another big plus for steel is there is no taping/mud work.

Sounds like there might be more to the story....

 

[JD Miller]

What size is your shop? 40x60?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

You need 6mil poly up before anything if it's climate controlled, regardless of what you put up.
2 people and rolling scaffold will do the job for steel. 3 would be ideal.

 

[MelvinManiac]

What size is your shop? 40x60?

36x48

 

[racecougar]

Liner panel can be sealed up quite well. Install your vapor barrier, then liner panel, then blown insulation on top.





It looks quite nice once complete, IMO.

 

[NORTON'S SHOP]

Yea, but it's going to be a somewhat climate controlled garage that could be converted to living space in the future. Not sure who I'd get to install it and how sealed up it would really be climate control purposes. Although another big plus for steel is there is no taping/mud work.

I think I'm just going to see if we can go with 5/8 standard (white board) for the whole garage... Give me the best chance against sagging and cracks I supposed.

Probably should adjust your overhead doors before converting to living space.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Liner panel can be sealed up quite well. Install your vapor barrier, then liner panel, then blown insulation on top.



It looks quite nice once complete, IMO.

If the OP has hung drywall in the past, hanging steel is very much the same.

The sheets might be a bit longer but lighter for the most part. ..

Using a drywall lift like @racecougar allows one person to hang it. Buy a drywall lift from HF or FBMP and pawn it off to the next guy after you are done.

But to each their own and and if you want to throw big money at someone to hang/finish it, by all means, it's entirely up to you.

 

[racecougar]

Yep. I did my shop myself. Used the lift to get the sheets up, and the dead men to hold them while I shot the first screws.

 

[Dig Doug]

Like said before

5/8 type X walls and ceiling

just make sure all your Ruff In is done
electric and pumping ceiling fan etc

 

[MelvinManiac]

Probably should adjust your overhead doors before converting to living space.

I have no plans to convert to living space, just something in the back of my mind that's a possibility for the next person who owns this property. I assume they'd want to eliminate at least 2 of the garage doors.

 

[MelvinManiac]

Like said before

5/8 type X walls and ceiling

just make sure all your Ruff In is done
electric and pumping ceiling fan etc

Yep that's the current plan. I messaged the contractor and can hopefully get him on the schedule a few weeks from now.

 

[PCustoms]

I have no plans to convert to living space, just something in the back of my mind that's a possibility for the next person who owns this property. I assume they'd want to eliminate at least 2 of the garage doors.

Once I stopped thinking about "the next guy" my projects got easier, cheaper and more enjoyable

 

[MelvinManiac]

Once I stopped thinking about "the next guy" my projects got easier, cheaper and more enjoyable

lol Good point. I'm always imagining the time to sell stuff.

 

[MelvinManiac]

Anymore pics of the build? Looks like a nice place!

Here is the whole build

36X48 Garage Build - AKA "I Love Debt" is Underway!

Ground was broke today. Excited and nervous. Most folks in the construction world start work at sunrise. I work often at night, so probably won't be sleeping much while this is going on. Day one, they did the digging and got the footing poured. All concrete work should be done early next week...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[rlitman]

...You don’t need green board for this area imo...

...
As far as 5/8 type X in a detached garage, I don't see the need/ advantage. It'll slow the burn, but it isn't saving lives. If you're in the garage - get out. If you're not there, and there is a fire, you saved a half hour or so to the burning demolition.

Sag resistance isn't well quantified or defined. If it gets damp, of course it'll sag more over a longer span. It shouldn't get compromised. It isn't a damp location, so "greenboard" serves no purpose, IMO...

I'm not sure where the greenboard idea came from. Green is moisture resistant, but is NOT remotely mold resistant. I don't know of ANY good use for greenboard.

Purple is mold resistant, but is not moisture resistant. That's what you want. Type X is fiberglass reinforced, and is more sag resistant than plain 5/8 (if you can even find plain 5/8, because most 5/8 is type X anyway).

 

[PCustoms]

lol Good point. I'm always imagining the time to sell stuff.

I did the same thing when I started a renovation.

Guess what? 10yrs later I hate the bathroom. Good things the enclosure didn't last, this summer I'll do it the way I want it.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Once I stopped thinking about "the next guy" my projects got easier, cheaper and more enjoyable

No kidding. That's whoever buys it's problem, not yours.

 

[Scotto]

I went with steel panels on the ceiling and drywall walls. It came out sharp looking IMO. Easy to install with a buddy (with my makeshift rolling scaffolding) and no painting or mudding.
I put up plastic vapor barrier and blew in 24" of insulation on top. I know you're concerned about climate control - my garage is tighter and easier to condition then my house!

 

[Nofries]

I'm not sure where the greenboard idea came from. Green is moisture resistant, but is NOT remotely mold resistant. I don't know of ANY good use for greenboard.

Purple is mold resistant, but is not moisture resistant. That's what you want. Type X is fiberglass reinforced, and is more sag resistant than plain 5/8 (if you can even find plain 5/8, because most 5/8 is type X anyway).

LOL
Purple green blue they are all moisture resistant. Different colors for different manufacturers.
5/8X is not fiberglass reinforced. it is a fire rating chemical added to the core or the board. there is also 1/2C which is also just as fire resistant.
Fiberglass reinforced is tile backer and or exterior sheathing, all blue Yellow, green and purple plus even white. Different manufacturers different color.

5/8 will not sag as soon as 1/2" if it is conditioned and no roof leaks it shouldn't sag.
If you haven't hung it before I'd recommend finding someone else to do it, unless you have two other friends to help. Or have tons of time to spare. Find someone that is willing to do it on the side.

I work for a drywall company that installs millions of feet of drywall a year. Answers above are entertaining.

I like the steel panel route.....but it will be louder in the shop

 

[rlitman]

LOL
Purple green blue they are all moisture resistant. Different colors for different manufacturers.
5/8X is not fiberglass reinforced. it is a fire rating chemical added to the core or the board.
...I work for a drywall company that installs millions of feet of drywall a year. Answers above are entertaining.

I stayed at a Holiday Inn. It didn't have a Murphy bed, and I didn't need a Bandaid. Nobody cares what color the Sheetrock comes in, but terms stick. When I hear someone saying greenboard, I hear a reference to the first gypsum drywall panel that came out on the market that was green. That paper (on one side only) was resin treated to resist moisture transfer, and any place it would have been used, cement board products work better today.

USG had a green on both sides product come out in 2007 (MANY years after greenboard was a thing), that actually offers mold resistance, but I've never heard it called greenboard. Probably because National Gypsum added anti-microbials to their Gold Bond XP product, and put purple paper on it to indicate that it was actually mold resistant back in 2003. Either of these products would be fine for the OP.

Type X drywall absolutely is fiberglass reinforced. I don't know what "chemical" you think they add to the core, but I'll give you a hint. It's glass fibers! Why do you think cut type X drywall has glass fibers glistening out of the snapped parts? It's there to keep the gypsum from collapsing in the event of a fire. Gypsum itself is the fire resistant chemical, because heat causes it to release the water that's chemically holding the cured plaster together. The problem is that once the water escapes (when exposed to sufficient heat to chemically liberate it), the plaster returns to it's powder form, and the "wall" crumbles. The glass keeps it standing just a bit longer, which keeps the fire out of the wall cavity for more time.

I didn't say it's covered in glass fiber (like the yellow exterior Densglas). That's paperless.

 

[Nofries]

I stayed at a Holiday Inn. It didn't have a Murphy bed, and I didn't need a Bandaid. Nobody cares what color the Sheetrock comes in, but terms stick. When I hear someone saying greenboard, I hear a reference to the first gypsum drywall panel that came out on the market that was green. That paper (on one side only) was resin treated to resist moisture transfer, and any place it would have been used, cement board products work better today.

USG had a green on both sides product come out in 2007 (MANY years after greenboard was a thing), that actually offers mold resistance, but I've never heard it called greenboard. Probably because National Gypsum added anti-microbials to their Gold Bond XP product, and put purple paper on it to indicate that it was actually mold resistant back in 2003. Either of these products would be fine for the OP.

Type X drywall absolutely is fiberglass reinforced. I don't know what "chemical" you think they add to the core, but I'll give you a hint. It's glass fibers! Why do you think cut type X drywall has glass fibers glistening out of the snapped parts? It's there to keep the gypsum from collapsing in the event of a fire. Gypsum itself is the fire resistant chemical, because heat causes it to release the water that's chemically holding the cured plaster together. The problem is that once the water escapes (when exposed to sufficient heat to chemically liberate it), the plaster returns to it's powder form, and the "wall" crumbles. The glass keeps it standing just a bit longer, which keeps the fire out of the wall cavity for more time.

I didn't say it's covered in glass fiber (like the yellow exterior Densglas). That's paperless.

Learn something new every day.