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Building me a shop-advice/questions

kingcobb

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Mar 4, 2026
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My family lives in North Texas just south of the Red River. We have a currently existing metal building that is 12x20. Its used for various bits of storage and for 5 weeks a year we use it to raise the kids 4-H broiler projects. The people we bought the house from have a large metal barn behind us for their RV, storage, tools etc. We bought the house with the idea they would sell the barn and adjoining property to us, but 10 years in that hasn't happened yet and who knows when they will feel like selling.

There is a rusted up 40 year old home depot type metal building next to our chicken barn and a little "garden shed" built for someone about 5ft tall. I'm 6'4" so it isn't very useable. There is also a 12x14 empty space between the cottage and the chicken barn.

Our idea is to demo the garden shed and haul off the old metal building and demo the sporadic concrete that us there in places. Pour a new concrete pad and build either a 27x20 or 27x25 shop in the space.

Have a local metal building guy that does good work and is very honest that will do the build. Thinking regular steel building as red iron sounds like overkill for our purposes.

Part of the impetus for doing this is we need some shop and storage space, also the people who own the big barn have let us store stuff, including our gravely mower in their barn, but are now saying they ned us to move some of it out in the near future. Also our youngest will also be showing broilers in 4-H next year so we need more space for chickens.

My questions:

Insulation- The default answer around here(real world) seems to be 4 inches of closed cell spray foam. But on here yall seem to be more in favor of rockwool or dating or other options. We did spray foam on our other barn, but we only did 2 inches so we need to get that thicker, but just curious what is recommended?

2-Roll up garage doors-Is there a big difference in companies and quality? We have an overhead door co nearby that replaced our home garage door but I know there are other options. I have read a lot about the difficulty of insulating and sealing roll up doors on some older threads, is it still that big of an issue or have they made improvements since 2010 and 2011?

3-On the chicken area, we either make a permanent 10x10 room in the barn that for 5 weeks a year has chickens in it....for the broiler project this is probably the best way to go vs a temporary building in the barn, but it does section off a large area of the shop.

4- our breaker box is currently about maxed out, I have enough left to basically wire the shop, but adding 220 for welding, tools, etc will require either enlarging the breaker box or adding a sub panel I suppose. The house was built in 1970 and the panel is original. I dont think adding a separate meter for the barn makes any sense, but that could be the way to go, suggestions?

U will certainly have more to come but here is a start as we are going at this idea.

Attached is a basic drawing of what we are playing with. The measurements were early, the possible chicken room would probably be 10x10 now.20260114_125537.jpg
 
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Uncle murph

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Harford county
My family lives in North Texas just south of the Red River. We have a currently existing metal building that is 12x20. Its used for various bits of storage and for 5 weeks a year we use it to raise the kids 4-H broiler projects. The people we bought the house from have a large metal barn behind us for their RV, storage, tools etc. We bought the house with the idea they would sell the barn and adjoining property to us, but 10 years in that hasn't happened yet and who knows when they will feel like selling.

There is a rusted up 40 year old home depot type metal building next to our chicken barn and a little "garden shed" built for someone about 5ft tall. I'm 6'4" so it isn't very useable. There is also a 12x14 empty space between the cottage and the chicken barn.

Our idea is to demo the garden shed and haul off the old metal building and demo the sporadic concrete that us there in places. Pour a new concrete pad and build either a 27x20 or 27x25 shop in the space.

Have a local metal building guy that does good work and is very honest that will do the build. Thinking regular steel building as red iron sounds like overkill for our purposes.

Part of the impetus for doing this is we need some shop and storage space, also the people who own the big barn have let us store stuff, including our gravely mower in their barn, but are now saying they ned us to move some of it out in the near future. Also our youngest will also be showing broilers in 4-H next year so we need more space for chickens.

My questions:

Insulation- The default answer around here(real world) seems to be 4 inches of closed cell spray foam. But on here yall seem to be more in favor of rockwool or dating or other options. We did spray foam on our other barn, but we only did 2 inches so we need to get that thicker, but just curious what is recommended?

2-Roll up garage doors-Is there a big difference in companies and quality? We have an overhead door co nearby that replaced our home garage door but I know there are other options. I have read a lot about the difficulty of insulating and sealing roll up doors on some older threads, is it still that big of an issue or have they made improvements since 2010 and 2011?

3-On the chicken area, we either make a permanent 10x10 room in the barn that for 5 weeks a year has chickens in it....for the broiler project this is probably the best way to go vs a temporary building in the barn, but it does section off a large area of the shop.

4- our breaker box is currently about maxed out, I have enough left to basically wire the shop, but adding 220 for welding, tools, etc will require either enlarging the breaker box or adding a sub panel I suppose. The house was built in 1970 and the panel is original. I dont think adding a separate meter for the barn makes any sense, but that could be the way to go, suggestions?

U will certainly have more to come but here is a start as we are going at this idea.

Attached is a basic drawing of what we are playing with. The measurements were early, the possible chicken room would probably be 10x10 now.20260114_125537.jpg
If you’re going to control the climate in there definitely go with more vs less on the insulation.As far as the panel goes,do you have enough capacity for the extra building? If so I would go ahead and install a subpanel but if need more capacity you might as well just put a meter on the new building.
 

dcg9381

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Location
Austin, TX
Insulation- The default answer around here(real world) seems to be 4 inches of closed cell spray foam. But on here yall seem to be more in favor of rockwool or dating or other options. We did spray foam on our other barn, but we only did 2 inches so we need to get that thicker, but just curious what is recommended?
There is a recommended R value in Texas, but it's for residential, IE heated and cooled all the time. Spray foam is expensive.
Closed cell is more expensive per R value, so if you have the (insulation) space, no real reason to use it over open cell.
You'll get some various feedback on the use of spray foam, but I know of 20+ buildings in Texas that have it without issues.

To me it comes down to how often you heat/cool the building. If 24/7, by all means go for recommended R value or above. But that's good money. For me, I did 3" of open cell and slightly over-powered with HVAC. I cool the building probably 90 days a year and the savings on insulation costs was $5-10k, which pays for a lot of electricity.

You can "hybrid" insulate too. 1-2 of closed cell and if you're framing in, add bat insulation. Best of both worlds.

2-Roll up garage doors-Is there a big difference in companies and quality? We have an overhead door co nearby that replaced our home garage door but I know there are other options. I have read a lot about the difficulty of insulating and sealing roll up doors on some older threads, is it still that big of an issue or have they made improvements since 2010 and 2011?
I just replaced a 14x14 roll up door with an insulated panel door. Having lived in the shop that had 3 roll up doors, they ****. Difficult to seal, they rattle like traps in the wind. But they are cheap. Can you get a roll up that doesn't rattle? Dunno.. The cost of this one panel door was more than 3 roll up doors, so something to consider.


4- our breaker box is currently about maxed out, I have enough left to basically wire the shop, but adding 220 for welding, tools, etc will require either enlarging the breaker box or adding a sub panel I suppose. The house was built in 1970 and the panel is original. I dont think adding a separate meter for the barn makes any sense, but that could be the way to go, suggestions?
Various ways to approach this. Here, if I add a new meter, I pay an additional base fee and other fees just for having the meter... If you have two slots, you simply run down to a new shop sub-panel, that assumes you have enough available power, some houses in 1970 were 100A.
 

My Old Tools

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Hamrick Lake, TX
Have the frame wrapped with standard metal building roll fiberglass insulation before putting the metal on, then go inside and strap additional insulation on the ceiling. We get most of our heat through the roof.
 

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kingcobb

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Have the frame wrapped with standard metal building roll fiberglass insulation before putting the metal on, then go inside and strap additional insulation on the ceiling. We get most of our heat through the roof.
Thanks, what kind of insulation is that in your pic? Do you suggest it over spray foam?
 

Hooked

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League City, Texas
Have the frame wrapped with standard metal building roll fiberglass insulation before putting the metal on, then go inside and strap additional insulation on the ceiling. We get most of our heat through the roof.
Hijack. Was your building designed for the I-beam down the center or did you just 'wing it'. I have considered this for my shop but didn't include this in the original design so thinking it isn't a good idea.
 

dcg9381

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Thanks, what kind of insulation is that in your pic? Do you suggest it over spray foam?
That's the standard "insulation package" offered by many steel building manufacturers. It's basically a "blanket" that they lay down and put panel on top of...

It's basically incompatible with spray foam. But it's a lot less expensive.


1772741222237.png
 

My Old Tools

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Hijack. Was your building designed for the I-beam down the center or did you just 'wing it'. I have considered this for my shop but didn't include this in the original design so thinking it isn't a good idea.
It was designed in, one ton with traveler. It is very handy. Great for getting stuff in the loft.
 

My Old Tools

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That's the standard "insulation package" offered by many steel building manufacturers. It's basically a "blanket" that they lay down and put panel on top of...

It's basically incompatible with spray foam. But it's a lot less expensive.


1772741222237.png
Except on the roof. If you look close you can see the strapping where we added another 8 inches.
 
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kingcobb

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after doing some research on my electric panel and determining it is a 100amp panel original to when the house was built, that is completely full. I'm having the electrician quote me on just completely upgrading the panel. Its hillarious to me that he installed the original panel when the owners built the house in 1972 and he and his son will be the ones that do the upgrade. Probably just gonna go to 200amp panel....Is there a reason to go to 300 or 400? I'll have a welder and table saw and such in the barn but I don't figure that will need me to go to 300....I didn't even know a smart panel was a thing until today.....
 

My Old Tools

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200 will do everything you need. Have him move the 100 amp panel to the barn or shop as a sub. You already have all the breakers you need I bet.
 
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kingcobb

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Coming back to this topic with another question regarding spray foam insulation.

Looking at doing closed cell in part for the increased rigidity in our high winds.

But I am getting varying answers on thickness.

Ill have some fans and vents and such in the shop, but not currently planning any A/C or HVAC or any of that.


One installer talked with said that an inch on the sides and 2 inches on the ceiling is all I need since no A/C.

Other installer said 3 inches to a max of 4 on ceiling and 2 inches on the walls?

Any suggestions one way or the other?
 
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kingcobb

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Ok...there is the possibility of some kind of HVAC in the barn depending on room in the budget.....At this rate I'm gonna have to sell a rolex to pay for this thing 😆
 

CluelessPro

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so any suggestions regarding closed cell thickenss?
I've got 2.5" all around in upstate SC and it does quite well. Thickness is really up to how insulated you want the building to be. A flashing of closed cell will make the building airtight. Each inch is roughly equivalent to R6-8. R-Value isn't really a fair comparison for spray foam however due to how it insulates. Tractor Time with Tim has IMO one of the best videos explaining...

 
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kingcobb

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I've got 2.5" all around in upstate SC and it does quite well. Thickness is really up to how insulated you want the building to be. A flashing of closed cell will make the building airtight. Each inch is roughly equivalent to R6-8. R-Value isn't really a fair comparison for spray foam however due to how it insulates. Tractor Time with Tim has IMO one of the best videos explaining...

Thanks, I am enjoying the video. Trying to make sure I get this done right and don't have to try to fix something in the future. Currently debating between a 25x27 foot shop or a 30x27 foot shop. Would love to do the 30....but we have a beautiful liveoak tree there that would be about 6 feet from the foundation. The forestry major in me is saying thats too much root disturbance for the tree to handle.....the other part of me is saying I did way more root disturbance to the other live oaks when we put in our sprinkler system and didn't lose a one....
 

finn

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When they did our kitchen addition, with basement, I think they did an inch of closed cell, followed by open cell to get the R value we targeted. Not sure if that was only the basement walls, though.

Knowing how many leaks I have in my metal shop roof, I’m even more concerned about water retention and eventual rust out on a metal roo with closed cell insulation under a roof.

Lots of people do it, though.
 
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