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What did you do "IN" your garage today?

kaymccampbell

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Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,478
Location
Upstate New York
Dragged out tools. Designed and printed a leveling foot for the icemaker. Put away tools. Loaded up a new slicer, Orca, cause Flashprint doesn't do fuzzy skin the way I wanted. Wrangled with all the usual suspects in loading a new software on Linux. Spent way too much time applying fuzzy modifiers to my part. Changed out the filament. Started the printer on the first printer cover part.
IMG_20260311_132934.jpgIMG_20260311_213359.jpg
 
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rharman

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Apr 22, 2012
Messages
8,769
Location
SoCal
You'd have to be walking under the bench for either to be a trip hazard.

My recommendation was to do what the Oregon State Parks Dept. did back in the '90s and replace them with "tip-proof" tables.

Here's an example:

shopping


Expensive. We have about a dozen picnic tables.

I'll respectfully disagree. I think they'd hit it while exiting/entering sideways'ish. Don't underestimate people's doofishness.
 

Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,703
Location
Far NE Oregon
I'll respectfully disagree. I think they'd hit it while exiting/entering sideways'ish. Don't underestimate people's doofishness.
Another problem entirely is that some of the benches extend a good foot out beyond the legs length-wise. Those can pitch-pole if a biggie is sitting outside the legs. Bosses want that fixed, too.

For that problem, the only good solution I can see is cutting the bench down to about an inch outside the legs. Poor design to begin with.
 

DGersic

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Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,286
Location
DeKalb, IL
Repaired “my” toy vintage sewing machine.

IMG_8771.jpeg

1950s vintage Gateway Engineering NP-1 that I bought for Mom at a garage sale in the 1970s. I probably paid 10 cents, maybe as much as a quarter. I think Dad cleaned it up, probably refinished the (not original) wood base. I remember it working, but it was just a display decoration on the coffee table.

Cleaning out the house now. Decided it was coming home with me.

Some YouTube videos show that this machine really does work. It sews a chain stitch. I’m missing the thread, and a nut and spring that provide thread tension. But it’s not working because the needle shaft is not connected to the arm that should move it up and down.

Not sure how it was originally attached, so I made a pin for it.

Some .062 music wire from my scrap bin fits in the hole in the needle shaft. Not tight, but snug. Annealed the top 1/8” or so of the wire with the torch.

Drilled a 1/16” hole in some steel. Clamped the wire in my vice and peened over the annealed end.

Cut to length and installed with some LocTite bearing lock left over from another project.

IMG_8772.jpeg

It now advances the fabric, and the needle goes up and down. I need to find a brass 10-32 nut and a spring and it should work. Probably never use it, but it’s kinda amazing how simple the mechanism is and it does actually make stitches. Mechanism is a copy of a Singer model 20.
 

DGersic

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Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,286
Location
DeKalb, IL
Another problem entirely is that some of the benches extend a good foot out beyond the legs length-wise. Those can pitch-pole if a biggie is sitting outside the legs. Bosses want that fixed, too.

For that problem, the only good solution I can see is cutting the bench down to about an inch outside the legs. Poor design to begin with.

How about just putting up a “sit at your own risk” sign and calling it a day. You’ll never completely idiot proof the tables.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,703
Location
Far NE Oregon
How about just putting up a “sit at your own risk” sign and calling it a day. You’ll never completely idiot proof the tables.
That idea was immediately shot down.

What I don't understand is that we've been using (and tipping over) these or similar picnic tables for the better part of thirty years--and just now, it's a problem requiring my immediate attention.

I like to think of things like this as teachable moments. You get to learn some basic applied physics while dumping dinner and a beer in your lap--it makes for a more memorable night.
 

bugnut

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Jul 14, 2012
Messages
3,864
Location
Central Ohio
Installed the handcrafted fuel line olives on the ford tractor, fired it up and they leaked. It appears that removing the exterior layer and the cord to allow for compression makes the od to small to fill the void and compress enough to stop the flow. I hunted down dimensions of the ford truck diesel parts, compared them to the old olives and have 2--$6 sets on order. Carb coming back off. Glad the weather is hit and miss cause doing this over and over......
 

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Firebird1975

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Joined
Feb 16, 2017
Messages
56
Location
MA/NH Border
Thanks, 68 Pontiac Alpine blue.

Spent the last couple days tinkering on getting the Sports Coupe cleaned up and back together. It is getting pretty close. After that I'll be back onto the wagon. Soon I hope. I can't wait to be able to take this one out and enjoy it again.
22528.jpg
Thanks for the motivation. I'm going to check the timing and adjust the carb on the Trans Am.
 

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rollinlower

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Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
179
Location
Rogersville TN
What year and motor I can't recall ever having to pull a fender to get a starter out.
It's a 93, Iv had some surgeries that are healing up so I can't really crawl under and get to the top bolt easily, the fenders have to be replaced anyway so it's just a waiting game, mostly waiting on the wife to sleep in so I can work lol
 
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aka Larry

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Joined
May 2, 2012
Messages
8,026
Location
Eastern, NC
So I've been updating my old 2003 F-150 since I'll now be using it to tow our new camper. I added air bags, new WDH setup, new brakes, changed the trans and diff fluids, added a brake controller....and the list goes on.

I'm a big fan of fog lamps and mine is an XLT, but did not come equipped with them. Lots of people just buy the lower valance from the 4WD models which all had fog lamps. I like the look and function so I went to the salvage yard this past weekend and grabbed one for $45.

I wanted the updated clear-type lenses on the actual fog lamps so I bought this aftermarket type replacement that comes with the OE mounting bracket:

LED_03.jpg


I LOVE LEDs, and bought a set to replace the OE halogens that came with this set. Problem is Ford designed the OE bulbs to twist and lock into place in the 9 o'clock position, which rotates the LED's two chips 90 degrees on the wrong axis to work with the reflector. IOW, the LEDs would be pointing up and down vs side to side, which won't work for a fog beam pattern.

I had watched a video (another vehicle, not a F-150) where the guy removed the screw in the side of the LED, rotated the lock ring 90 degrees, drilled a new hole and re-inserted the tiny screw. It was finiky, but I did just that w/o too much trouble. Problem is that doesn't help when the housing was designed to have the bulb locked in the 9' oclock position and it needs to be in the 6 o'clock position.

After messing with it for about 20 mins, I decided I might just skip the locking ring and glue the damn bulbs into the housing. Of course if the bulb ever died, I'd likely destroy the housing trying to remove it.

The real issue is there are a pair of raised bosses where the screws hold the lock ring to the reflector. Here's the back of the housing with the halogen bulb in place in the 9 o'clock position. Notice the screws on either side.

LED_01.jpg

It looked like if I trimmed half of the lower one off, the bulb might clear. Here's the housing after I modified it to accommodate the LED in the correct 6 o'clock position. Note the missing plastic on the left side of the lower screw.

LED_02.jpg

I tested it and it totally worked! Beam pattern looks good too. I should get it all buttoned up tonight with everything in place.
 
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930dreamer

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Oct 7, 2009
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22,945
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Amarillo,TX and Stinnett,TX
Us Squids and you Jarheads called this pair of tools a Swab and bucket.
Dunno what the Ground Pounders and Fly Boys called them.
I still swab the deck in my shop on occasion.
Bare concrete floor.
You can vacuum them out but nothing gets them as clean and dust free as hot soapy water and a couple of rinses.
After years of marriage even my wife calls it a swab, though she uses the flimsy sponge kind.
I've had a big project going on in here since November. Combining parts from two old lathes into one. Not quite done with that yet but I've turned this place into such a hell hole and needed to put it back in some semblance of order for sanity's sake.
All in all, It was another good day in my garage.
Army- sweep, mop, buff.
 

Hooked

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Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Messages
428
Location
League City, Texas
You'd have to be walking under the bench for either to be a trip hazard.

My recommendation was to do what the Oregon State Parks Dept. did back in the '90s and replace them with "tip-proof" tables.

Here's an example:

shopping


Expensive. We have about a dozen picnic tables.
We have both types and although I prefer the wooden tables, because they are more sturdy, the tip-proof design is better for anyone with difficulty lifting their legs over the wooden bench. They simply slide in from either end. My wife prefers them.
However, the plastic will begin to crack after a few years sitting outdoors. And, if they get moved frequently the top/seat screws will strip out of the plastic if they are lifted by the ends. DAMHIKT. :)

I'm in the camp that either of your mods would be a tripping hazard but would suggest laying your board flat attached under the legs would reduce the possibility. It would raise the height 1 1/2" but I extended the length of the legs(from the pattern) when I built ours.
Makes it much more comfortable for anyone over about 5'6". ;)
 

driftpin

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Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Messages
11,218
Location
Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
I'm a cheap guy, sometimes. One way I save some $ is to repair my sneakers, the need for which happens as the factory glue fails on the tread. I use contact cement and Scotch masking tape to hold the joints together overnight, and get 'em back in-service. I can get years out of a pair, and being retired, I don't use them as-hard as I once did. I buy new replacements on-sale, often at someplace like Famous Footware, Designer Shoe Warehouse, or sometimes Marshall's or TJ Max. About $60 is what I'd pay, at the most. I like New Balance because of the width availability, and they compliment my polo shirt and jorts so-well! :lol2:

My latest pair, Skechers hiking fabric/leather shoes are still in the box. Quality Goodyear soles, waiting until my current repair job runs its course, and they get holes, or the sole rips-out.

I fixed a pair of Reeboks w/the Scotch masking tape/DAP-Weldwood contact cement, now back in service.

20260312_101110.jpg20260312_102111.jpg

I usually have to use a bit of solvent on a cloth to remove residual masking tape glue from the soles, or otherwise they pick-up dirt like magnets and iron debris.

I have a pair of older New Balance sneakers, repaired this way > once, which have been relegated to the lowest spot on the totem pole, 'painting sneakers.' They get used for the dirty job of painting whatever needs that work, and I don't worry about them becoming peppered with splotches of paint, glue, grease or sanding residue.
 
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rd65

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Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Messages
2,750
Location
Granite Falls, WA
Can Am or Polaris are better than a trike I think. Much more stable. I went on a couple rides with a woman who got the Spider because an injury from a previous crash prevented her from throwing a leg over (she walked with a cane). She could really rail that thing in the twisties. When it's time for me to give up the bikes I'll just get a nice convertible sports car.
A small convertible is very close to the same feeling as riding.
 

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Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
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39,168
Location
The Badlands
I use contact cement and Scotch masking tape to hold the joints together overnight,
Get yourself some BARGE contact cement. it is what shoe repair folks use, and it is far superior to Weldwood.

Also make a first coat, let dry for 7-10 min (depending on temp/humidity) and recoat & dry again before seating.
 

niget2002

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Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
11,123
Location
Josephine, TX
I came up with a bunch of fancy designs for a clamp rack.

Then went out to to the shop grabbed some scrap wood. Made this.
1773327810907.png
Loaded it with clamps.
1773327880670.png
1773327917181.png
I had one like that. I got tired of having to lift some of the longer clamps all the way out. I switched to mounts that the clamps slid off the front and were held sideways.
 

Skyman

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Joined
Nov 9, 2021
Messages
1,165
Location
Central Maryland
The usual stuff for the morning.

Then the bosses got all worked up because someone discovered physics last week when they tipped a picnic bench over by having too muck weight on one bench. While this does happen occasionally, it's never been a national disaster before. I've gotta fix that RIGHT NOW!

Here's one of the bosses, Ed's idea:

55141665612_9a9e146a56_o.jpg

The two heaviest employees testing it. It works, but looks like ****, IMHO.

My idea, in concept:

55141665607_a00f63aa30_o.jpg

I think that looks better. Of course, the board would be the full width of the benches. I think an angle on the end that mirrors that of the bench brace would be nice.

Ed's idea uses less wood and a lot more work. Each "leg" has the be individually cut to fit. It also, as I mentioned before, don't look great.

My idea uses more wood, but quick and easy to cut and install--two pieces, the same length, shimmed up a half inch to clear irregularities in the pads and carriage-bolts to the bottom of the legs. Should even stiffen the tables up a bit.

What about unbolting the legs and relocating them as far outboard as can go? Looks as though they could probably move about four inches (being stopped when they contact the benches) and then bolted into place there?
 
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Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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9,703
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Far NE Oregon
What about unbolting the legs and relocating them as far outboard as can go? Looks as though they could probably move about four inches (being stopped when they contact the benches) and then bolted into place there?
That's one option I'm considering. It would still need something to prevent tipping over sideways.

What I'm recommending right now, considering all the tables need refinishing and some need extensive repairs, is to gradually phase out tables as they weather out and replace them with something like these:


Which are the tip-proof design already. Add your own boards--which will be much easier to refinish than an entire table and easy to replace as they weather out.
 
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LeonardY

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Joined
Apr 16, 2011
Messages
5,040
Location
Southern California
I had one like that. I got tired of having to lift some of the longer clamps all the way out. I switched to mounts that the clamps slid off the front and were held sideways.
That's on the other side.
1773339612088.png
Believe or not. I may have too many clamps. Although, I never seem to have enough of the right size.
 

Skyman

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Joined
Nov 9, 2021
Messages
1,165
Location
Central Maryland
I'm a cheap guy, sometimes. One way I save some $ is to repair my sneakers, the need for which happens as the factory glue fails on the tread. I use contact cement and Scotch masking tape to hold the joints together overnight, and get 'em back in-service. I can get years out of a pair, and being retired, I don't use them as-hard as I once did. I buy new replacements on-sale, often at someplace like Famous Footware, Designer Shoe Warehouse, or sometimes Marshall's or TJ Max. About $60 is what I'd pay, at the most. I like New Balance because of the width availability, and they compliment my polo shirt and jorts so-well! :lol2:

My latest pair, Skechers hiking fabric/leather shoes are still in the box. Quality Goodyear soles, waiting until my current repair job runs its course, and they get holes, or the sole rips-out.

I fixed a pair of Reeboks w/the Scotch masking tape/DAP-Weldwood contact cement, now back in service.

20260312_102111.jpg

I usually have to use a bit of solvent on a cloth to remove residual masking tape glue from the soles, or otherwise they pick-up dirt like magnets and iron debris.

I have a pair of older New Balance sneakers, repaired this way > once, which have been relegated to the lowest spot on the totem pole, 'painting sneakers.' They get used for the dirty job of painting whatever needs that work, and I don't worry about them becoming peppered with splotches of paint or sanding residue.

I re-bond mine with monkeysnot (aka 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive), and use bar clamps while the adhesive sets. Seems to work well for me. I hate shopping for shoes. That's partly because I have such a difficult time finding any that fit well and feel right, and partly because I hate the in-store shopping experience generally.
 

Hooked

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Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Messages
428
Location
League City, Texas
I'm a cheap guy, sometimes. One way I save some $ is to repair my sneakers, the need for which happens as the factory glue fails on the tread. I use contact cement and Scotch masking tape to hold the joints together overnight, and get 'em back in-service. I can get years out of a pair, and being retired, I don't use them as-hard as I once did. I buy new replacements on-sale, often at someplace like Famous Footware, Designer Shoe Warehouse, or sometimes Marshall's or TJ Max. About $60 is what I'd pay, at the most. I like New Balance because of the width availability, and they compliment my polo shirt and jorts so-well! :lol2:

My latest pair, Skechers hiking fabric/leather shoes are still in the box. Quality Goodyear soles, waiting until my current repair job runs its course, and they get holes, or the sole rips-out.

I fixed a pair of Reeboks w/the Scotch masking tape/DAP-Weldwood contact cement, now back in service.

20260312_101110.jpg20260312_102111.jpg

I usually have to use a bit of solvent on a cloth to remove residual masking tape glue from the soles, or otherwise they pick-up dirt like magnets and iron debris.

I have a pair of older New Balance sneakers, repaired this way > once, which have been relegated to the lowest spot on the totem pole, 'painting sneakers.' They get used for the dirty job of painting whatever needs that work, and I don't worry about them becoming peppered with splotches of paint or sanding residue.
I re-glue the soles until there's no wear left. I've tried super glue, contact cement and Shoe Goo. I liked Shoe Goo the best, seemed to last the longest but the last time I glued my 25 year old Ariat laceups I had some 3m 5200 left over from some boat stuff so I used it. It's only been a couple months but hoping it lasts on the soles as well as it does on the boat.
 

Hooked

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Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Messages
428
Location
League City, Texas
Bought a new tool. Makita cordless impact wrench making this #3 -- air, electric and battery.
After reading comments from people and considering one of these for years I finally decided to pull the trigger. Several years ago I gave my daughters each a long 1/2" breaker bar with sockets for the lug nuts on their vehicles. One has been used once and it wasn't easy but she got it done. So my thinking is I'll give this one a test run and if I like it will gift them one to make things a bit easier in case of emergency tire change.
 

rsparks64

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 22, 2015
Messages
580
Location
Hill Country Texas
I'm a cheap guy, sometimes. One way I save some $ is to repair my sneakers, the need for which happens as the factory glue fails on the tread. I use contact cement and Scotch masking tape to hold the joints together overnight, and get 'em back in-service. I can get years out of a pair, and being retired, I don't use them as-hard as I once did. I buy new replacements on-sale, often at someplace like Famous Footware, Designer Shoe Warehouse, or sometimes Marshall's or TJ Max. About $60 is what I'd pay, at the most. I like New Balance because of the width availability, and they compliment my polo shirt and jorts so-well! :lol2:

My latest pair, Skechers hiking fabric/leather shoes are still in the box. Quality Goodyear soles, waiting until my current repair job runs its course, and they get holes, or the sole rips-out.

I fixed a pair of Reeboks w/the Scotch masking tape/DAP-Weldwood contact cement, now back in service.

20260312_101110.jpg20260312_102111.jpg

I usually have to use a bit of solvent on a cloth to remove residual masking tape glue from the soles, or otherwise they pick-up dirt like magnets and iron debris.

I have a pair of older New Balance sneakers, repaired this way > once, which have been relegated to the lowest spot on the totem pole, 'painting sneakers.' They get used for the dirty job of painting whatever needs that work, and I don't worry about them becoming peppered with splotches of paint or sanding residue.
I don't think I am cheap, but I also glue sneaker soles if they need it. I also repair my tools and cars instead of throwing them away when that happens.
 

niget2002

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
11,123
Location
Josephine, TX
That's on the other side.
1773339612088.png
Believe or not. I may have too many clamps. Although, I never seem to have enough of the right size.
Every time I use bar clamps, I tell myself I need a few more. Then I never buy them, so the next time I need them, I tell myself I need more... It's a vicious cycle.

3" spring clamps, though? I'm stocked there...
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,168
Location
The Badlands
That's one option I'm considering. It would still need something to prevent tipping over sideways.

How about an out of the box option?

Assuming these things are not moved around a lot, a central anchor; i.e: an eye bolt in the center facing down, a ground anchor point, and a simple chain or cable to hold it down.
 

Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,703
Location
Far NE Oregon
How about an out of the box option?

Assuming these things are not moved around a lot, a central anchor; i.e: an eye bolt in the center facing down, a ground anchor point, and a simple chain or cable to hold it down.
The pads are concrete pavers--not poured pads (my preference). Nothing to really anchor to there. That was the first suggestion from the Bosses.

Here's my full mock-up:

55143303062_ab2c3de511_o.jpg

I could add a 2X4 spacer between the leg and the new support to add six inches to the wheelbase each end. Not sure how much that will help. I'm only 150lb, so I can't really test it by myself.
 

rd65

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Messages
2,750
Location
Granite Falls, WA
I re-bond mine with monkeysnot (aka 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive), and use bar clamps while the adhesive sets. Seems to work well for me. I hate shopping for shoes. That's partly because I have such a difficult time finding any that fit well and feel right, and partly because I hate the in-store shopping experience generally.
That is exactly why I buy the same model as the old ones on amazon.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,703
Location
Far NE Oregon
Playing with the Brick some more.

I got this in the other day:

55138197932_e303c745c3_o.jpg

I have an analog-only trans temp gauge in the Brick for now. I've become convinced that the higher precision of digital is what we need for this, but just can't give up on analog.

Why not have both?

55138197937_20925f1e9a_o.jpg

I also got a cheap plastic nacelle for dash mounting. I turned the gauge upside-down, glued a salvaged HDD RE magnet to the base

55144283026_a7c2a34f32_o.jpg

trimmed one edge off with a hacksaw and

55144445523_a1156d465d_o.jpg

That strip of dash right above the old gauge is steel. I can mount the new gauge wherever I want as long as it's steel, meaning on this strip or on the back of the dash against the windshield.

I'll install the new, two-wire sensor when I change my trans oil--a tank or two of gas from now.
 

kaymccampbell

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Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,478
Location
Upstate New York
I re-glue the soles until there's no wear left. I've tried super glue, contact cement and Shoe Goo. I liked Shoe Goo the best, seemed to last the longest but the last time I glued my 25 year old Ariat laceups I had some 3m 5200 left over from some boat stuff so I used it. It's only been a couple months but hoping it lasts on the soles as well as it does on the boat.
I did the lugs on some shoes with 5200. It outlived the uppers.
 

kaymccampbell

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Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,478
Location
Upstate New York
Stripped supports off a big 3d print. Tuned the print and installed magnets. Installed the printer screen in it. Put it on the printer.

Scraped the factory words off the next part and added my own. Applied selective fuzzy skin and set it loose. Orca has lots of handy little tools. Fought with Orca to try to get my printer's dashboard up, but it's proprietary and the Orca slicer fork that supports it doesn't have a Linux distro. Got the cam working, tho.

IMG_20260312_170224.jpg
 
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