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How crazy is moving a custom built carport?

Today's Tom Sawyer

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Maryville TN
Okay, I know it's not a garage! But our garage is fine and does not need to move. Let me explain, and I will try to do so without going too deep into the history. For a number of reasons that I will not go into here we accidentally built the carport about 6 feet over a property line. I can go into why if you want, but I'm trying to get to the question. How feasible is it to:
  1. cut the 6x6 posts off a few inches above current slab level
  2. Jack up the entire carport using the truss crossbeams
  3. Remove the shrubs and planting bed
  4. Have an extension slab poured adding 6 feet to the slab on the downhill side
  5. Move the carport over
  6. Lower onto new mounting hardware
  7. Attach to top of slab using the appropriate Simpson zmax post mounts

    Carport in question:
IMG_3514.jpeg
Another angle
BF0297BE-F431-4C2E-828E-C4CBEB44BC7F_1_105_c.jpeg

So here is what this would possibly look like. The building needs to move about 6 feet as depicted here:

Image 3-13-26 at 9.35 AM.png

This was just a crazy idea that came to me yesterday. I know the cleanest way to approach this is to buy that strip of property from them, but I highly suspect they will be unwilling to do that, so I am brainstorming alternatives. So... is this idea of moving the carport over 6 feet feasible? If you need more info on materials or more pics, let me know, I'll be very interested to see what this community comes up with.
 
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PCustoms

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Fairly simple with the right equipment.

Run some braces down the sides, bolted into the posts. Cut posts, Jack up.

What do you have to roll it? You could run a second brace at ground level after cutting the posts and use pipe.

I moved a 1 stall sided carport a few years ago. Did a cross brace in the back, backed the tractor in, did a cross brace in front of the tractor then lifted it with the loader/3pt. Had someone call out instructions as I drove it across the lawn to make sure I was clear and bam, set it on the new footing
 

sailor_lou

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Are you sure getting inside the property line is enough? Can't speak about TN, but everyplace I ever lived there was always a setback within the property line before you could build. Also, are you on good terms with your neighbor? If my neighbor came to me with an issue like this I would grant him/her an easement for no charge.
 
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Today's Tom Sawyer

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This is the first and best option I'd be persuing, have you explored it yet or are you just assuming the answer is no? Maybe explore a land swap so lot sizes stay the same?

W have not directly addressed it with them. There is a long history here. Basically we thought the property line was in one place because the previous owners of BOTH properties said it was. Turns out they had made a handshake agreement on where the property line was, but never filed that with the Register of Deeds in our county. So, in reality, that handshake agreement does not legally exist.

The current owners of adjoining property have been openly hostile in every interaction with them, so we don't think this would go well. If they were willing to sell us the required land (less than 1/10 an acre), I would fully expect them to exponentially inflate the price above a realistic value.
Can you pour the 6 foot extension to the slab first? I'm thinking if it's in place first, moving the carport itself will be easier - just slide it over.

Yes, this would be the plan. That and lots of cross bracing to keep all the posts in alignment, and keep the entire structure from twisting.

The pipe idea that @PCustoms brings up is an idea we had not thought off. I could see how that would work.

Keep the ideas and inputs coming!
 

aka Larry

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Are you sure getting inside the property line is enough? Can't speak about TN, but everyplace I ever lived there was always a setback within the property line before you could build.

This.

A carport in my area is classified as an "accessory structure", but still has a setback. You'd better check, otherwise you might be moving it twice.
 
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Today's Tom Sawyer

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Are you sure getting inside the property line is enough? Can't speak about TN, but everyplace I ever lived there was always a setback within the property line before you could build. Also, are you on good terms with your neighbor? If my neighbor came to me with an issue like this I would grant him/her an easement for no charge.

There is a 10 foot setback technically on the books, but we are in a rural area, and even the guy at the county planning office said no one is ever going to care/investigate about a shed or carport. From my property, I cannot see a single neighbors house. We are in the woods!

The setback is a risk I am willing to take. Having the carport actually sit on their property, I want to fix.
 

racecougar

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Are you sure getting inside the property line is enough? Can't speak about TN, but everyplace I ever lived there was always a setback within the property line before you could build. Also, are you on good terms with your neighbor? If my neighbor came to me with an issue like this I would grant him/her an easement for no charge.
Bingo. I'd fully investigate this first, as it's likely you're going to need to move more than just 6'.
 

aka Larry

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There is a 10 foot setback technically on the books, but we are in a rural area, and even the guy at the county planning office said no one is ever going to care/investigate about a shed or carport.

You've already said the neighbors are hostile. If they discover your discrepancy with a setback, they could push it and make you move it yet again.
 

Old tool guy

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Can you pour the 6 foot extension to the slab first? I'm thinking if it's in place first, moving the carport itself will be easier - just slide it over.
That’s a jeep, right? Pour the new slab, turn the jerp sideways, run braces off the bumpers to the trusses, cut off the posts at ground level and drive forward. Fill the old post holes later.
.
Serious question. Are you going to have to saw cut and remove 6 ft of slab on their side? Is there a thickened grade beam under the perimeter?
 
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Today's Tom Sawyer

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That’s a jeep, right? Pour the new slab, turn the jerp sideways, run braces off the bumpers to the trusses, cut off the posts at ground level and drive forward. Fill the old post holes later.
.
Serious question. Are you going to have to saw cut and remove 6 ft of slab on their side? Is there a thickened grade beam under the perimeter?
LOL, no longer own that Jeep, but we do have something hefty to provide the humph. Neighbor has a tractor we could use.

Yes, we would be cutting off the no longer needed slab, then jackhammering and disposing. No perimeter on the slab, we had a concrete crew do this, and we discovered later that they gave us a subpar slab/pour. The carport was built during covid, and we were not in this house for weeks at a time unfortunately, and we did not realize some of the mistakes that were made until later. Completely on me, not blaming anyone, just the reality of how we got here.
 

mm08822

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I would get the property line officially determined first.....surveyor. Have the surveyor mark that line (intermediate temporary stakes) so you can be sure to find it and move onto your side (once!). You can wage your bets on the set-back needed.

It might be easiest to mark everything and dis-assemble it - tin roof panels, a few trusses, etc. Rebuild on some (all?) new footings which could allow for better positioning for your needs now knowing the property line.

Worst case, you need 6 new posts as what may be in the ground have to be cut off at top footing. These could be re-used for landscaping needs.

No matter what, you will need more concrete and have to demo the section over the line.
 

Innovate1

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The posts in the ground provide a lot of support from racking (falling over as posts lean). So just cutting at slab level and using post anchor bases in the new locations won't give you that. You could put posts in the new locations (buried) and then slide the roof assembly over using some 2 x between old and new posts just below the eve beams. I would also add some temporary cross bracing to the roof at eve level to prevent twisting.

I have had great neighbors some places and terrible neighbors other places. Even if things are in writing they can make things difficult.
 
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Today's Tom Sawyer

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Absolutely.

And man, I'd be "hostile" too if a neighbor built a carport on my property.
They have actually not said a word about the building. It's a long history, and I don't need to detail it here. We get along with all our neighbors very well, expect this one, and that did not stem from a property line dispute. I wish it weren't this way, but it is.
 
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Today's Tom Sawyer

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They certainly have seen the building and I strongly suspect they at least "think" it's over the line. I'm leaning towards talking to a real estate attorney to get advice on the legal aspects. Getting a surveyor in to exactly define the line is also darn good advice.

But back to the logistics, seems like everyone thinks the move is do-able?
 

Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
How deep are the posts and how were the holes filled? My approach would be to park a hay rack (or similar trailer) in it. Add braces to keep the poles vertical and the structure square.
Use a post hole digger along the poles then jack the whole thing up. Then support it on the rack.
No matter what you do moving it Lifting it 6 ft isn't much more difficult than lifting it 6".
Moving it 6 ft isn't much easier than moving it 60 ft.
 

CraigStu

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RE; racking w/o the post in the ground. Would you be open to enclosing or partially enclosing the sides? Sheathing would fix the racking and then all the Simpsons (or similar) are doing is holding it down to the concrete.
 

Innovate1

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I have looked at that site soooo many times. And I honestly can't tell. But I do believe we are over based on an old fence line.
That's a poor thing to base a property line on. Have had a couple issues with neighbors. In one I was working on going from overhead power to underground to a pole near the property line. There was a large swale between our houses - over 100' wide probably close to 200' and about 40' deep. And the property line and pole were on my side of the swale. When the power company was out and I wasn't there the neighbor told them the property line was an old fence but not a lot of it left in the trees. Power company said they didn't want to get in the middle of anything (even though they clearly had an easement) so said they would set another pole on my property no extra charge. I told them he exagerated how far over the line was (the fence line was clearly crooked) and it was only about 10' from the existing pole. So they put the pole there and I never heard from the neighbor. Maybe he didn't want to confront me directly. Where I am now there is an even bigger ravine between me and neighbor. One day a group with the neighbor comes wandering through the back yard about 100' feet from the house (just into the edge of forest). I went out and ask what they were doing. "Just looking for mushrooms". I told them we liked mushrooms too and they were on my land. If they had been less confrontational about it I probably would have let it slide. The guy wanted to argue about it and where the property line was but the women told him let's just go so they left. They had it surveyed a couple years later to harvest some logs and it was WAY down the hill from where they were. We never had much contact with them as their old mother lives there and the sons just are there infrequently and hunt and such. But they never really pushed hard and they never made an issue of it again. In the current place there are a few remains of barbed wire but it's nowhere near the property lines. Expecially in hilly land like yours the fences were often placed where it was a little easier and maybe where they thought the lines were so I wouldn't go by them. Heck, we bought 30 acres and when surveyed they determined it was actually 31 acres.

I might be inclined to just let it go and not worry about it until they complain. And not get a survey. If they don't notify you of trespass or give you written notice of right to use in a some states the law says it may become yours or at least the right to use it after enough time. If they complain it's on them to prove it.
 

Old tool guy

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Will post bases give you the sheer strength/resist racking that you need?

Most of that strength is currently coming from the posts buried in the ground.
He has small knee braces front to back, but none sideways. Add a couple along the back wall, won’t interfere with anthing, and make the existing braces longer.
 

mike93lx

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He has small knee braces front to back, but none sideways. Add a couple along the back wall, won’t interfere with anthing, and make the existing braces longer.
I don't think small knee braces will be anywhere near enough. Plus the front will have no racking resistance side to side
 

mm08822

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All of this is details after the fact......get a survey.......what if you find it doesn't need to move??!!
 

zak77

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Two words: adverse possession:ROFLMAO:. Knew of a case where someone put a shed on the neighbors property and they ended up deeding them the land to avoid costly legal fees, on the other hand i was working a for a house builder many, many years ago and same thing but it wasnt on the abutting parcel long enough so my boss offered to move it with his excavator nicely for a couple hundred,or not so nicely for free. We moved it nicely.
 
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