LeeG
Well-known member
Like it says. This is a 5 gal nato style can I carry in my truck. Small weeping hole in the side. Looks like it got dented and the hole is at the edge of the dent.
Lee
Lee
What epoxy for pinhole leak in a 5 gallon steel gas can
- Thread starter LeeG
- Start date
American Locomotive
Well-known member
None, they will all fail. You need to solder or weld it. Soldering is probably the easiest.
Drain can out, fill can to the brim with water, shake it all around to make sure no air pockets, dump water out.
Sand the paint off, use plenty of flux, and use a torch you can control the flame.
Drain can out, fill can to the brim with water, shake it all around to make sure no air pockets, dump water out.
Sand the paint off, use plenty of flux, and use a torch you can control the flame.
I used that permatex stuff on a ford truck gas tank that had a bunch of small rust holes on the bottom front corner, still holding fine about 5 years later. Just wire wheeled it and cleaned it off first. I tried chipping some off, wasn't going anywhere.
Just_Steve
Well-known member
You could Kreem it. Used on motorcycle gas tanks forever.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Agree. I would not consider a torch on a gas tank unless filled with CO2. That said I have used steel reinforced epoxy putty on gas container, no issues.
Rst277
Well-known member
I've used Seal All on two leaking gas tanks that were like colanders from rust. Held for years.
SweetD
Well-known member
POR-15?
MichaelP
Well-known member
You can buy a metal gas tank for $50, and it'll serve much longer than the rusted and patched NATO tank. And you won't need to worry about fuel leaking inside your vehicle.
The NATO tank can become a sentimental artefact of your collection.
The NATO tank can become a sentimental artefact of your collection.
50/50 or 60/40 solder. some muriatic acid to clean it up and some acid flux
Junkman
Well-known member
In 1959, I was introduced to a product called Metalset A4. I used it to repair a hole in my car's gas tank. It worked perfectly, and 10 years later, when the car was full of rust, the repair was still intact.
Another vote for Seal-All.
https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-380112-Contact-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B008VK0JS4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-380112-Contact-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B008VK0JS4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
fourjeepin
Well-known member
NATO cans are great, the Blitz cans with the screw on caps, not so much.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
that little permatex turd thing would be my choice.
American Locomotive
Well-known member
That stuff just falls off after a few years and makes a mess.
If you completely fill the tank with water (twice if you're really worried about it), it will purge all flammable vapors out. Steel doesn't absorb fuel.
Maybe something like this:
Gold Standard Tank Sealer – Gas, Fuel & All-Purpose | KBS Coatings
KBS Gold Standard Tank Sealer permanently seals rust, pinholes, and weld seams in metal, aluminum, and fiberglass tanks — fuel, oil, diesel, utility, and more. Made in USA.
www.kbs-coatings.com
Just_Steve
Well-known member
Don't blame the product for poor prep. I have never had an issue.
American Locomotive
Well-known member
Every motorcycle I've ever seen or owned that had a "Kreem" coated tank, had the coating fail and flake off in huge chunks. Maybe it lasted 10 years? I don't know, since I bought them used. But it's unreliable enough to know that it's not a long term fix, and a waste of money.
On the other hand, soldering the pinhole will take 5 minutes of time, requires almost no prep besides some sand paper, and will be a very durable fix.
nadogail
Well-known member
Dry Ice will fill your tank with CO2 while you solder it with 50/50 Tin Lead Solder and Acid Flux.
Uncle murph
Well-known member
With a little luck it might not explode. I wouldn’t risk it having seen others attempts ending badly.
American Locomotive
Well-known member
I've soldered multiple steel gas tanks before, from motorcycle tanks to truck tanks. If you completely fill them with water, all flammable vapors will be gone from the tank. There just isn't any other possibility.
I can understand and appreciate the apprehension. But you just have to approach it logically: If you remove all of the fuel from the tank, and then fill it completely up with water such that there is no air at all left, then ALL of the flammable liquids and vapors would have been displaced from the tank. There is no other possibility. Gas can't permeate into steel and hide.
Last edited:
BurtEggley
Well-known member
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- Oct 8, 2024
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- 860
steel does absorb the H2 in the fuel and outgas with heat. Water also does not remove the flammable oils. I know this for a fact because years ago I cut a tank in half while full of water. Tossed the water out and set the tank aside. Everytime i walked by it for a week I smelled fuel. Tossed a match in it and ****!
Rinse it out with hot soapy water. Rinse. Fill half to 2/3 with water and toss in some dry ice from the grocery store. Lots sell it now. The dry ice will turn to gas and when you see it spilling out the opening CO2 has replaced the air. Then do your soldering. Use a high quality solder for brazing type repairs, otherwise it may crack. Personally I would write it off to a bad choice of where to set it down, or where to park etc., and buy a new one. Can't imagine what a small pinhole spilling a gallon or two of gasoline would do to a garage when a spark comes along.
Rinse it out with hot soapy water. Rinse. Fill half to 2/3 with water and toss in some dry ice from the grocery store. Lots sell it now. The dry ice will turn to gas and when you see it spilling out the opening CO2 has replaced the air. Then do your soldering. Use a high quality solder for brazing type repairs, otherwise it may crack. Personally I would write it off to a bad choice of where to set it down, or where to park etc., and buy a new one. Can't imagine what a small pinhole spilling a gallon or two of gasoline would do to a garage when a spark comes along.
dcg9381
Well-known member
Gonna go with not soldering on a gas tank. Grinding it off is bad enough (use sandpaper), over-patch it with fiberglass, paint for UV protection.
Hell, I patch my plastic tanks with 3M marine stuff...
(not saying any of this is real advise, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do)
lolaetype
Well-known member
I've bought three military style gas cans in the past few years. I de-rust them by shaking a chain and small fasteners in them, then use muriatic acid to clean the inside, followed by a thorough rinsing. Then I use Eastwood's gas tank sealer to coat the inside.
One of the cans had pinholes that I first filled and sanded with regular JB weld, the same as I'd do body filler. The Eastwood tank sealer doesn't let the gasoline get to the JB weld. I've been using that tank for about 10 years and it refuses to leak.
One of the cans had pinholes that I first filled and sanded with regular JB weld, the same as I'd do body filler. The Eastwood tank sealer doesn't let the gasoline get to the JB weld. I've been using that tank for about 10 years and it refuses to leak.
BurtEggley
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2024
- Messages
- 860
best way to ruin a good thing is to say it like that. I told some buddies one night while we were working on a race car that I'd never seen my now ex-wife angry or upset. They laughed at me, both being recently divorced, and said wait a while. She showed up a little later that day with three cups of coffee for us. Pleasant as could be handing them their coffee, she dropped mine all over me and stormed off. Turns out she didn't like to be alone and that was the first time we had been apart except for work. She was jealous of the car. Buddies were like, the dude is out of touch. So yeah, you've never seen that tank leak, eh?
driftpin
Well-known member
One of my acquaintances uses KBS as needed and is satisfied with it. He buys a lot of used bikes and sells-'em after whatever needs to be done.
We usually have some tank sealant on the Engine. I forget the brand but it works decent enough that it was purchased and given to us by the County EMA office.
LopezBart
Well-known member
I once fixed a actively leaking polyethylene plastic gas tank seam on a mower w/ a soldering iron while it was leaking.... I did shut off the mower, though.
The dry ice approach does work well; there's a neat trick w/ pouring CO2 from sublimating dry ice into a jar w/ a burning candle that demonstrates how the heavier gas sinks to the bottom.
The dry ice approach does work well; there's a neat trick w/ pouring CO2 from sublimating dry ice into a jar w/ a burning candle that demonstrates how the heavier gas sinks to the bottom.
My two cents worth - I think the patch works on gas tanks that you're using "all the time" but what I'm afraid of is gas tanks that you use "some of the time" - you know, the ones that you use and then shove off into the garage and you do not notice the slow drip or leak until you see the gasoline pooled on the ground.
I have a fishing camp that I go to infrequently and I'm always amazed and how "stuff" leaks - gas tanks, plastic fuel cans, etc. I think something is fine to store and when go to the camp there is always some sort of leakage around the bottom of the base of the container. Honestly = I don't know where it comes from.
My camp has a large cistern where we collect rain water to shower in, wash dishes, etc. and I've used most of the above prodcuts these products to patch PVC & PEX lines with great success but I'm not sure I'd trust them to hold long term gasoline storage in a confined space.
Just my thoughts.
I have a fishing camp that I go to infrequently and I'm always amazed and how "stuff" leaks - gas tanks, plastic fuel cans, etc. I think something is fine to store and when go to the camp there is always some sort of leakage around the bottom of the base of the container. Honestly = I don't know where it comes from.
My camp has a large cistern where we collect rain water to shower in, wash dishes, etc. and I've used most of the above prodcuts these products to patch PVC & PEX lines with great success but I'm not sure I'd trust them to hold long term gasoline storage in a confined space.
Just my thoughts.
larry4406
Well-known member
I’ve done the water rinse out process and solder method on an old 1 gal metal gas can like @American Locomotive mentioned.
This was around 1978 time frame. Mower threw a rock into my minibike fuel can. I was in middle school and method was approved by dad and I’m still here. Was uneventful.
This was around 1978 time frame. Mower threw a rock into my minibike fuel can. I was in middle school and method was approved by dad and I’m still here. Was uneventful.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Anytime I’ve welded a gas tank, and there have been a few, I used soap and water to wash it out. So far none have exploded, now I did have a close call on a tune pipe from my kx125, lost an eyebrow on that one.lol I didn‘t think to wash that one out before I welded it.
JB weld. The original cold weld. Lots of ATV tanks have been done with it. 35 years ago my brother put a hole in the bottom crankcase of his 3-wheeler with a rock on the trail. Slathered the hole with JB Weld and it is still holding just fine to this day (I owned it, and now my friend owns it)
I'd solder, with an old-fashioned soldering copper so no open flame. Clean well, rinse with water, clean again. Clean and prep with acid. Apply some solder to a hot copper soldering iron, apply solder to the can near the iron. when it melts it will flow and seal.
I've seen my Dad assemble galvanized guttering like that and watching the solder follow the heat is amazing.
Might have to go to an antique shop (or eBay) to find a soldering copper. Maybe even an old gas torch to heat it.
I've seen my Dad assemble galvanized guttering like that and watching the solder follow the heat is amazing.
Might have to go to an antique shop (or eBay) to find a soldering copper. Maybe even an old gas torch to heat it.
Recoveryman
Well-known member
Another old time way to get rid of gas fumes in a can is to stick the filler pipe of the gas tank over an exhaust pipe of a running engine and let it run for some time, I'm thinking maybe an hour. I've seen it done a number of times.
Recoveryman
Recoveryman
That's probably because the water would not be drinkable...