How would you paint something on a car subject to damage?

[American Locomotive]

So my Land Cruiser project is nearing the finish line, and the last things that need to be painted are my bumpers, rock sliders, and wheels. This vehicle will absolutely be used off road. The bumpers and rock sliders I'm planning to paint black. Obviously they are going to be subject to damage, and will likely frequently need touch-ups.

Would you go for a base coat/clear system on them, or just shoot them with a single stage black? I'm learning towards a single stage, as logically I think that'd be easier to touch up in the future?

 

[PCustoms]

Either a single stage black, and epoxy black or maybe something like raptor liner.

Bc/cc is going to be a pain in the *** for touch-ups.

Next project I do is either going to be epoxy or raptor. Testing some raptor (had some excess mixed spray can) on a tractor grapple now

 

[Buckgnarly]

I had Line X color match my fenders and corners on my Jeep...STUPIDEST thing I ever did. Rust ALWAYS gets under, and no way to touch up. I've also used POR15 with mixed results.
My new method for anything that's gonna get messed up is just plain old easy to buy and do spray cans. The fancy **** does not belong on stuff you beat on.
NAPA has a great series of chassis colors that I use now...last a long time and kind of cheap at about 160ish a gallon. Comes in various colors too.

 

[PCustoms]

I had Line X color match my fenders and corners on my Jeep...STUPIDEST thing I ever did. Rust ALWAYS gets under, and no way to touch up. I've also used POR15 with mixed results.
My new method for anything that's gonna get messed up is just plain old easy to buy and do spray cans. The fancy **** does not belong on stuff you beat on.
NAPA has a great series of chassis colors that I use now...last a long time and kind of cheap at about 160ish a gallon. Comes in various colors too.

I used to use Rust-Oleum pro satin black on things, but it just doesn't hold up to the salt.

My thoughts with an epoxy is that it should hold up, but if it doesn't I can sand it down and repair.

Need to pull the tow hooks and coat them with something soon...been layering spraybomb in them and they look like ****, all flaky

 

[American Locomotive]

The bumper and rock sliders are going to be epoxy primed. Maybe it makes more sense to just use black epoxy primer? I think SPI says you can use their black epoxy primer as chassis paint.

Definitely not interested in any kind of "liner" product, nor anything in a spray can. I have bad experiences with spray can products just failing miserably in automotive use.

 

[mikedodge]

Single stage something like Rustoleum that's easy to redo.

Or perfect excuse to start powder coating.

 

[PCustoms]

Or perfect excuse to start powder coating.

Yeah, not easy to touch up and really not that durable in my experience

 

[PCustoms]

The bumper and rock sliders are going to be epoxy primed. Maybe it makes more sense to just use black epoxy primer? I think SPI says you can use their black epoxy primer as chassis paint.

Definitely not interested in any kind of "liner" product, nor anything in a spray can. I have bad experiences with spray can products just failing miserably in automotive use.

FYI you can get 2K in a can these days...

Also not sure what the aversion to "liner" is, really they're just a textured 2K paint with good durability.

 

[American Locomotive]

FYI you can get 2K in a can these days...

Aren't they internally a two component system?

Also not sure what the aversion to "liner" is, really they're just a textured 2K paint with good durability.

I think it looks really bad just about anything except the inside of a truck bed. It also is difficult to clean well, in my experience.

 

[Wrench97]

Single stage, easy scuff and touch up.

 

[rsanter]

Stuff like that that gets rubbed on all the tome……spray paint

 

[mikedodge]

Yeah, not easy to touch up and really not that durable in my experience

I've never had a problem with durability. But I do agree I prefer stuff that's easier to touch up.

 

[PCustoms]

I've never had a problem with durability. But I do agree I prefer stuff that's easier to touch up.

OP mentioned rock sliders.

I had set coated for the cost of materials at a shop I was doing lots of industrial work with. They looked fantastic, but as soon as I started using them the rust set in. Rocks and branches will scrape powder off just as quick as paint, one is just easier to spray back on.

 

[e015475]

My favorite paint for these types of projects is SEM Trim Black. Durable and it blends in well with just a scuff from a scotchbrite pad. Not glossy, not flat and just right.

 

[jack stand]

On my work trucks the accessories like bumpers and ladder racks (shop built) always got basic implement paint, brushed on.
A annual "refresh" could be done in an hour with a throw away brush.
FJ cruiser?

 

[badmatt]

Steel-it

 

[jblnut]

Not sure what the aversion to spray paint is but I’d absolutely pick a basic color you like and blast it on. If it truly is a trail style rig to use and will get scratches and such isn’t leaving some of them on there part of the fun VS having it showroom pretty ? Every dent tells a story, every scratch has a back story.

I have numerous things painted with basic ol rustoleum black and touch things up as needed. Wash it clean, let it dry and spray away. I paint the rims, deck spots and other misc on my FL70 each spring and it is ready for another year of battle on the farm.

 

[American Locomotive]

I don't mind scratches, but if they get particularly bad, I want to be able to easily respray over it.

As far as my aversion to canned paint: What I don't want is paint flaking off and rust forming. I have found that spray paint never seems to get particularly hard and what should be a small scratch just ends up peeling paint off. It also seems to almost be porous (allowing the metal to rust under the paint).

If you have a spray paint that holds up, I suppose I'm open to considering it (don't even bother saying rustoleum black, it's a terrible product ime). The SEM product seems interesting.

 

[jblnut]

I don't mind scratches, but if they get particularly bad, I want to be able to easily respray over it.

As far as my aversion to canned paint: What I don't want is paint flaking off and rust forming. I have found that spray paint never seems to get particularly hard and what should be a small scratch just ends up peeling paint off. It also seems to almost be porous (allowing the metal to rust under the paint).

If you have a spray paint that holds up, I suppose I'm open to considering it (don't even bother saying rustoleum black, it's a terrible product ime). The SEM product seems interesting.

I’m not sure what I do so differently but I can’t remember a time when I had rustoleum spray paint flake off or peel off. Maybe I hold the can differently or something lol

My reason for suggesting an off the shelf common spray paint is that it’ll be super easy to touch things up in the future. You could even keep a can in the rig to quick spray a scratch right after it happens lol.

Rock sliders and bumpers are the items that are suppose to take a beating, that’s their whole purpose. Things that take a beating will get beat up and any product you stick to the surface will come off so it’s a matter of balancing ease of touch up with looks. In your case it seems like touching things up is important so the easier it is to touch things up the better. No one is going to judge the paint job on your protection devices more than yourself. If your wheeling buddies judge you because your sliders are scratched up they clearly shouldn’t be telling anyone they own a wheeling rig and use it.

I completely understand the desire to keep things looking nice and clean as well though. Any rust that forms on a slider or bumper will likely only be surface rust and will likely never affect the integrity of the slider/bumper.

I may have missed it but is this a wheeling rig you plan to only use off-road or will it be a daily driver of sorts ? More me being curious. A daily of sorts puts my brain in a “keep it clean and sharp” spot while a wheeling only rig says “every scratch tells a story”.

 

[Jacko264]

Cheapest chassis black paint and easy to touch up
G

 

[545_days]

I thought epoxy had to be coated for UV protection and the only reason epoxy is OK for chassis paint is because the body of the vehicle somewhat protects it from UV.

Without UV protection epoxy primers tend to turn chalky. Research the specific product you intend to use and ensure it's suitability for your use case

 

[American Locomotive]

I thought epoxy had to be coated for UV protection and the only reason epoxy is OK for chassis paint is because the body of the vehicle somewhat protects it from UV.

Without UV protection epoxy primers tend to turn chalky. Research the specific product you intend to use and ensure it's suitability for your use case

I ended up calling SPI today. They said their epoxy black does have UV inhibitors in it, and it should last quite a few years in direct sun before it starts to fade. They said the protection the product offers doesn't get compromised by UV - just the color fades. To fix would just require a scuff and re-coat to freshen it up.

They also informed me that I could clear right over the epoxy, which I did not know you could do. They then said if I had to repair it, I could just scuff and re-spray the bottom damaged side and just feather it into the edges of the undamaged clear area. The epoxy will apparently bond quite well to the scuffed clear, and I won't have to re-spray the clear because it's the bottom and you won't see it anyways.

Options...

 

[dan1554]

Powder coat with satin black rattlecan touch-ups have been working great for my LC over years, however it just sees the occasional departure and breakover contact, not a rock basher.

 

[Bodj Built]

I use Behr satin black in a rattle can on all the tubework for my prerunner. Lays nice, cheap, easy to touch up. I've also used the Rustoleum Professional gloss black and it wasn't too bad.

 

[ctandc72]

There was some type of brush on black paint that we used to use on stuff we knew was going to get abused. Can't remember what it was called for the life of me. It wasn't cheap (gallon) but it went a LONG way and it was hard as a rock. Guy we knew ordered it at his shop (County / DOT shop that did fleet maintenance / upkeep on trucks / equipment etc) - I know that's helpful. It's going to bug me not remember what it was called.

 

[Beerhippie]

I don't mind scratches, but if they get particularly bad, I want to be able to easily respray over it.

As far as my aversion to canned paint: What I don't want is paint flaking off and rust forming. I have found that spray paint never seems to get particularly hard and what should be a small scratch just ends up peeling paint off. It also seems to almost be porous (allowing the metal to rust under the paint).

If you have a spray paint that holds up, I suppose I'm open to considering it (don't even bother saying rustoleum black, it's a terrible product ime). The SEM product seems interesting.

I know these are big pieces, but baking Runstoleum at 225-250F for an hour makes it one hell of a lot more durable.

 

[Mr.N]

First: Paint it a color duct tape comes in.

I used to paint professionally (Aerospace company) and also have an off-road only "Jeep".
My advice: Paint it with a brush, if done right it will look like it was sprayed.
I prefer oil paint for off road rigs.
.
If you want it to look nice in pictures, the brighter the color the better it will look. A friend of mine painted his "Put Me on the Cover Orange" and it worked, he made the cover of a magazine.
.
If you want details on how to paint it with a brush, let me know.

 

[Mr.N]

So my Land Cruiser project is nearing the finish line, and the last things that need to be painted are my bumpers, rock sliders, and wheels. This vehicle will absolutely be used off road. The bumpers and rock sliders I'm planning to paint black. Obviously they are going to be subject to damage, and will likely frequently need touch-ups.

Would you go for a base coat/clear system on them, or just shoot them with a single stage black? I'm learning towards a single stage, as logically I think that'd be easier to touch up in the future?

Where is the build thread? If none, post some pictures here.

 

[472scout]

There was some type of brush on black paint that we used to use on stuff we knew was going to get abused. Can't remember what it was called for the life of me. It wasn't cheap (gallon) but it went a LONG way and it was hard as a rock. Guy we knew ordered it at his shop (County / DOT shop that did fleet maintenance / upkeep on trucks / equipment etc) - I know that's helpful. It's going to bug me not remember what it was called.

I can't remember the name either, but I'll go ahead and disagree with you. That stuff is horrible. I repeat, do not use it.

 

[Firebrick43]

Hot dip galvanizing with cold galvanizing for touch up

 

[ctandc72]

I can't remember the name either, but I'll go ahead and disagree with you. That stuff is horrible. I repeat, do not use it.

I believe this is it:

Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating

Underbody Rust Protection High Performance Specialty Paints Coatings industrial maintenance automotive fleet equipment refinish tractors refinish protection

www.magnetpaints.com

Chassis Saver

 

[racecougar]

I'd go with a cheap single stage implement paint like Majic or Rustoleum.

 

[American Locomotive]

Hot dip galvanizing with cold galvanizing for touch up

Is that something you've done? I'm not against the idea actually.

 

[mike93lx]

Hot dip galvanizing with cold galvanizing for touch up

Even better, stainless!

 

[strength_and_power]

Yeah, not easy to touch up and really not that durable in my experience

My powdercoat shop will straight up tell you that matching is all but impossible.
I built some gym equipment around 2012, had it powdercoated, no sandblast prep, just wipe and coat. That equipment is on its 5th owner and still looks respectable.

In this situation, I’d do something single stage and have some spray cans made at the same time

 

[Firebrick43]

Is that something you've done? I'm not against the idea actually.

Yea. My father and I welded and had dipped a c70 flat bed and rear bumper years ago. Sold the truck so I don’t have picture. We liked the rust resistance.

Can’t be anything hollow and capped, must be open ends or even holes drilled in the bottom of tubes to allow the galvanizing to drain when pulled from the vat but a couple of rubber plugs can be inserted after the fact.

The local company that did it charged by the finished weight after dipping. I don’t know what the current price is but I remember if you included prep time and blasting/sanding it wasn’t that much more than decent paint, and since it lasted longer than nearly any paint you saved money in the long run

 

[LopezBart]

If rust is an issue in your area, hot dip galvanizing is amazing in terms of durability and longevity. There's a reason it's often used on fishing boats. My parent's deck had custom galvanized brackets; they were in fine shape after nearly 45 years a 1/4 mile from the ocean.

For my Super Tenere which has twice taken a nap in a parking lot and gotten nudged by a couple of cars, I use a Rustoleum rattle can to touch up the heavy duty Rumbux crash bars. I just need some cardboard to prevent overspray and I can do it w/o removing the bars. Primer is needed if I went into the metal, and I may need to clean up any burrs, etc.

 

[BillK]

nor anything in a spray can. I have bad experiences with spray can products just failing miserably in automotive use.

Interesting. I have found Duplicolor Ceramic engine paint to be pretty bulletproof. Limited colors but it sounds like you are mainly interested in Black. I use their DE1635 Ford semi gloss on underhood brackets, chassis parts and tons of other stuff. Matches GM underhood black perfectly.

And obviously in a spray can it is easy to touch up if needed.

 

[duneslider]

I just use black rustoleum for bumpers and rocksliders. My sliders are getting a little rusty and should have got a coat before winter but it is what it is. I will probably have to clean them up a little before rattle canning them this time. I used to be better about doing it a couple times a year, I guess I am finding I have too many other things going on at this stage of life and I don't do it as often as I should.

 

[rust in the eye]

Agonizing over something you plan on damaging?
Someone else suggested the cheapest chassis black you can find, I'm in agreement.