Garage Build Questions

[hyperanjeeta]

I’m currently building a 20' x 32' stick-built garage in my backyard.

The garage portion will be 20' x 22', and the back room will be 20' x 10'.

I’m trying to decide between a side-mount (jackshaft) garage door opener or a traditional overhead mount. The garage ceiling height will be 10 feet, and the garage door itself will be 9 feet tall, so it’s not like I’m losing much overhead space. That said, I really like the clean look of a side-mount opener. But contractor said it will be an extra $500 for side mount, I’m assuming it’s worth the extra money?

Second question: Should I go with recessed canless lighting throughout the entire structure? I’m thinking 12 lights in the garage and 6 in the back room would provide plenty of light. Since they’re adjustable, I’d likely run them at 5000K.

 

[kngelv]

Jackshaft all day long and twice on Sunday's. That bar on normal openers will get in the way at some point. BTW double check that you can get a 9' door to work there. That's not a lot of room for that top panel to turn. What are you doing with the garage? I don't like recessed lights in a garage. They are too inflexible. I just built one with a 12' ceiling but I have a lift in there. Even if not it feels far more spacious than a 10' ceiling.

James

 

[Mikes61]

Definitely get the jack shaft opener. It’s a way cleaner look and there’s nothing to get it your way if you want to put a lift in there later. $500 isnt bad. The electrical has to be moved and the openers are a little more costly.

 

[OneEyedMan]

Another plus for the side mount is the one we installed included a battery backup. In a power outage you can open or close the door depending on the need.

 

[MNMike]

Side mount all the way. As mentioned, a lot cleaner look.

I have a row off 4 can lights over my cabinet/countertop area and 4 regular lights evenly spaced in the ceiling. All the lights are on their separate switch; I can control how much light I need.

 

[jblnut]

I’ll be the outlier and say I hate my side mounts and tore them out of the house to put in regular ol el cheapo chain driven LiftMasters.

The one in the shop has to stay as it’s a high rise track so it’s the only option. They’re slow and expensive. They do reduce head room so if that’s important for you go with them.

 

[dcg9381]

3rd vote for jackshaft... I absolutely love them and they've been way less problem than traditional units.
Plus they've got that great "hard lock" sound..

 

[sjvicker]

another vote for side mount. They're also extremely quiet.

 

[pima67]

Replaced a center mount (died) with a LM. Quieter and has the battery and automatic lock. High ceiling so next owner can install a lift w/o a problem. Battery not a big deal for me but my wife would have trouble lifting the double door manually.

 

[Mikes61]

3rd vote for jackshaft... I absolutely love them and they've been way less problem than traditional units.
Plus they've got that great "hard lock" sound..

Ahh yes. forgot about the deadbolt that locks the door in the down position. It’s comforting hearing the deadbolt click into place when the door closes.

 

[JohnX14]

You need to make sure that with a 9' door and 10' ceiling height that you have enough room to fit a side mount operator. (as well as the low rise track) that 12" is barely enough for a low rise door. The side mount probably extends more than 12" above the top of opening. (I have 10' tall door with about 11' ceiling (plastered with second floor storage above) and I had to cut an opening into the plastered ceiling for the side mount to fit. But with that said, the side mount is "all that" and worth every penny.

As far as recessed lights, I put them in both of my garages. I replaced the original 2013 T8 strips in my attached garage with 3" and 4" LED wafer lights (850 LM each) and when I built my detached 24x24 (smaller than I would have wished, but all I could fit) I illuminated with about a dozen higher lumen (~1600) 6" wafer recessed lights. These are higher end NDR brand, not the amazon specials. Ceiling height in attached garage slopes from 10' - 16' and is about 11' in flat ceiling detached garage.

I'm an electrician. I could have put anyting in there, but these work well for me.

 

[JohnX14]

Ahh yes. forgot about the deadbolt that locks the door in the down position. It’s comforting hearing the deadbolt click into place when the door closes.

Last week it was discomforting when the deadbolt didn't retract fully and my door wouldn't open. It partially retracted, and after about 2-3' of rise, would return closed. Seems it was just slightly stuck. After hitting it with some penetrating oil, it freed right up. But if the wife was home alone, her car would have been "stuck". (No way I could explain how to open it manually between the deadbolt release and the red rope release.

But still the best style of operator.

 

[Mikes61]

Last week it was discomforting when the deadbolt didn't retract fully and my door wouldn't open. It partially retracted, and after about 2-3' of rise, would return closed. Seems it was just slightly stuck. After hitting it with some penetrating oil, it freed right up. But if the wife was home alone, her car would have been "stuck". (No way I could explain how to open it manually between the deadbolt release and the red rope release.

But still the best style of operator.

Hmmm, my deadbolt has a tab that sticks up. The deadbolt slides easily by hand, either direction.

 

[pima67]

Forgot to mention I enjoy watching the door when it does it's little hesitation waltz just before hitting the floor. Noticed it when I had a lot of trouble with the first unit not closing on first try (replaced unit.)

 

[Sturgeon]

I have a 200 amp panel in my shop, wishing I had another panel down the wall a little bit and mounted on the outside of interior wall. Then when the need arises I would have a easy sorce for power for that added watch a call it.

 

[JohnX14]

Hmmm, my deadbolt has a tab that sticks up. The deadbolt slides easily by hand, either direction.

I have the tab. I could push the tab to open the deadbolt fully, then it would shut, but again wouldn't retract fully

 

[Dodgeboy2020]

I have both jack shaft and the 'conventional' openers and would go jack shaft on all of them if I had it to do again. The ONLY issue I have found with the jack shaft opener that I use daily is that it is somewhat fussy about snow/ice build up under then door when it's closing. I just have to clear that crud out of the way as needed and have learned to do it proactively. The jack shaft openers in addition to the battery back up feature seem to be much quieter inside the house when the door is activated (attached garages). I also would not hesitate to use the can light style lights in the garage. I had the electrician put a lot of them in the shop (10' side walls and cathedral ceiling up to about 13 feet at the peak) and have no issues with how they light the space. I also had them put in the garage same sidewalls but flat ceiling. That garage could have used a few more when compared to the shop, but given its just lighting to get in and out of vehicles and such it's more than sufficient.

 

[JuncleJohn]

I have both types. The jackshaft is on a 18x12 big door that has an open very high ceiling (clear span truss building). It doesn’t get a lot of use as it’s in a back garage/shop.

I recommend you get a good opener whichever style you choose. I prefer Chamberlain/Liftmaster.

I have had bad luck with both Genie and Stanley openers.

John

 

[dcg9381]

I have a jackshaft opener in my "office". Love it. Yes, a garage door is attached to the interior of my house.

And I just added one to the 14' high door in the shop. I replaced a roll-up door.





Both of these work with the standard "rolling code" remote openers, but also work with the MyQ app, which will give you their status (open/close/error) in real time. I can open the garage doors from anywhere that I have cellular/internet.