Lift location in a 3 car garage

[slowyellow]

Hello all, long time lurker here, finally going to have a garage worth discussing, ha! I've got a dilema...

I'm sure that this has been discussed, but I can't find my exact question. So please humor me! I'm having a house built and it's going to be an oversized side load 3 car garage with a pedestrian door, single and double car door. The single door is 9 foot wide and the double is 16. I just found a Bendpak HD-9XW lift and I'm trying to figure out the best spot to put it. The garage has 12' ceilings and the dimensions of the interior of the garage are 25'8" deep by 35'8" wide. I'm planning on putting 3 maybe 4 cars in there. I've got a 2022 power wagon that I really wish would fit under the lift, but I don't think it's going to. I hardly drive that. I've got a 92' 911 that gets driven, probably more than the truck, but still just on weekends/nice days. And my daily is a 21' Model S Plaid. I originally thought that the lift would go in the far side of the garage (from the pedestrian door) where the single bay door is and I'd put the 911 on top and the power wagon underneath. But after crunching numbers, it looks like I'm going to be an inch or two short (story of my life!) to fit the power wagon underneath. So then I had the thought that I could put it to the right side of the double door and stack the 911 and plaid underneath with the power wagon in the single bay door. My only concern is that I'd occasionally need to put another car to the left of the lift, which would be a really tight fit.

Does anyone have any experience with this type of a setup? I'd love to hear some insight and see some similar setups if possible. Thank you for your input in advance! I'll put some pictures of my setup for ease of reference (picture with the CMUs is a rough layout of the lift dimensions (ramps included).

 

[Yankeefarmer]

It’s a 4 post lift! It doesn’t need to be anchored to the floor. You can try different locations and see which works best for you.

 

[slowyellow]

That's the plan, I just didn't know if someone had a good starting point, or had been through these pains before!

 

[Mike65]

If it was me I would put it in the middle spot so you have plenty of room on both sides when you have to work on a vehicle on the lift.

 

[racecougar]

Slide the lift closer to the wall opposite the overhead doors and you'll have more room to slip a car in next to the lift if the lift is in the middle bay. Additional benefit is that you won't have to remove the ramps every time.

 

[slowyellow]

The garage is deep enough to have the ramps installed, and still have about 4.5’ in front of it. I don’t really want to push it up to the wall because I’d like to walk the if possible.

 

[racecougar]

The garage is deep enough to have the ramps installed, and still have about 4.5’ in front of it. I don’t really want to push it up to the wall because I’d like to walk the if possible.

Gotcha. From your photo above with the CMU's, my impression was that you were marking out where the posts would land. With the perspective of that photo, I don't see how the ramps could remain attached with the garage door closed.

 

[Mikes61]

Are you going to have side mount garage door openers? Are you using garage door tracks that tuck up against the ceiling?

Where will the electrical be for the lift and openers? You don’t want an extension cord for the lift going across the floor.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If you put the Power Wagon in the single bay, you don't have to pull in straight, you can pull it in slightly towards the outside wall creating more room around the lift if it's in the center. Also whether you back in or pull in the truck can make a difference on where it's going to sit if you angle park it.

 

[Mikes61]

I have a 4 post lift that has a track car on top. That car only gets used every couple of months, if that. What ever you put on top, will most likely not get moved much.

 

[slowyellow]

Gotcha. From your photo above with the CMU's, my impression was that you were marking out where the posts would land. With the perspective of that photo, I don't see how the ramps could remain attached with the garage door closed.

The CMUs are laid out as the total dimensions, ramps included. If you look, there is one brick towards the wall, that is where the other post will be, lol. Sorry, I didn't expect that picture to be analyzed!

 

[slowyellow]

Are you going to have side mount garage door openers? Are you using garage door tracks that tuck up against the ceiling?

Where will the electrical be for the lift and openers? You don’t want an extension cord for the lift going across the floor.

I will have the side mount garage door openers, and the electrical/controls wires are already run to where they will be. The doors will be tucked as close to the ceiling as possible. I've got an awesome construction manager, who knows and understands exactly what I'm trying to do, as far as maximizing height and space in the garage. The lift, I'll likely drop a 220v from the ceiling. I put a 120v under the window towards where the front of the lift would be in the single car because I didn't expect to find a smoking deal on a bendpak. I'll gladly drop a 220 where the lift lands. Above the entire garage is storage, so it'd be relatively easy to drop a 220v outlet or hardline.

 

[slowyellow]

I have a 4 post lift that has a track car on top. That car only gets used every couple of months, if that. What ever you put on top, will most likely not get moved much.

I'm really hoping that's not the case! I enjoy driving the car. I've also thought about this too. The truck may just have to live outside!

 

[racecougar]

Meh, I shuffle cars around and drive the car that's typically on the lift regularly. Everyone is different.

 

[BobnCO]

Nice garage/shop! I still like your original thought, far bay (9 ft door), I’m often (annually?) doing something I would like more space for (ripping 4x8 sheets on a table saw, laying out a large project, stuff w/ grandkids) where the open two bay area would be nice. I also would prefer the more open feel/light without the stored car in the middle, at/above head level. As you acknowledge, if you decide you don’t like it, you can move it.

 

[Stuart in MN]

My garage has a similar layout, I put the lift in front of the single door. However, as said by others you can move the lift around to suit your particular needs if necessary. Did it come with the optional caster kit? If not I'd suggest buying them, even if they only get used a few times and then you decide on a permanent spot for the lift they make moving it around a breeze.

Once you have it in the garage, note that the stops on the lift will partly dictate which vehicles you can stack. They may be located so that you can't get the lift in its optimal 'up' position (you have to allow a few extra inches since the lift has to go up a little past them before you can set it down on the stop.) Depending on which cars I've stacked I had to put shims under the lift's feet to make it work the way I wanted. The shims were simple squares of plywood and/or pieces of 2x lumber nailed together, and they didn't affect the stability of the lift. In some combinations I ended up with barely an inch of clearance over the roofs of the cars, but clearance is clearance.

Also, even though you'll be using jackshaft door openers it's possible the door itself will get in the way when it's in the open position. I've found sometimes I can make cars fit only if the door is opened part way. To prevent accidentally running the door into the roof of the car when it's opened, I took a simple approach and clamped a Vise-Grip on the overhead door rail to act as a stop.

 

[Mikes61]

I will have the side mount garage door openers, and the electrical/controls wires are already run to where they will be. The doors will be tucked as close to the ceiling as possible. I've got an awesome construction manager, who knows and understands exactly what I'm trying to do, as far as maximizing height and space in the garage. The lift, I'll likely drop a 220v from the ceiling. I put a 120v under the window towards where the front of the lift would be in the single car because I didn't expect to find a smoking deal on a bendpak. I'll gladly drop a 220 where the lift lands. Above the entire garage is storage, so it'd be relatively easy to drop a 220v outlet or hardline.

Ahh good, sounds like you are thinking ahead.

Something that almost tripped me up was not planning ahead for when the garage doors were open. I almost hit the car that was on top of the lift, while opening the garage door. I have to back that car onto the top of the lift, so the garage door goes over the hood of the car. I don’t have much ceiling height.

Take some blue painters tape and put it on the floor where the 4 posts are going to go. It will help you visualize everything a little better.

 

[Mikes61]

Also, try to get the aluminum ramps with your lift. The steel ones are crazy heavy and have sharp edges. I ended up throwing my steel ones in the trash after a couple months and buying the Race Ramps instead.

 

[SILVERPLATE]

My lift is in the single door side of my three car garage. 12 foot ceilings also. I have shaft opening garage door openers. I had one outlet on its own 20 amp breaker mounted high on the wall so I can walk under it when in use. Like someone said, aluminum ramps are a must have.

 

[slowyellow]

My garage has a similar layout, I put the lift in front of the single door. However, as said by others you can move the lift around to suit your particular needs if necessary. Did it come with the optional caster kit? If not I'd suggest buying them, even if they only get used a few times and then you decide on a permanent spot for the lift they make moving it around a breeze.

Once you have it in the garage, note that the stops on the lift will partly dictate which vehicles you can stack. They may be located so that you can't get the lift in its optimal 'up' position (you have to allow a few extra inches since the lift has to go up a little past them before you can set it down on the stop.) Depending on which cars I've stacked I had to put shims under the lift's feet to make it work the way I wanted. The shims were simple squares of plywood and/or pieces of 2x lumber nailed together, and they didn't affect the stability of the lift. In some combinations I ended up with barely an inch of clearance over the roofs of the cars, but clearance is clearance.

Also, even though you'll be using jackshaft door openers it's possible the door itself will get in the way when it's in the open position. I've found sometimes I can make cars fit only if the door is opened part way. To prevent accidentally running the door into the roof of the car when it's opened, I took a simple approach and clamped a Vise-Grip on the overhead door rail to act as a stop.

It does not come with the caster kit. That kit is rather expensive, should I quit being cheap and just buy the darn kit!? Lol.

As far as what car works with what, the power wagon is the limiting vehicle. That's the only thing that won't fit under the lift, everything else is pretty low. And I'm sure I'll end up with another old low car one of these days!

And if they get it REALLY close to the ceiling, hopefully only about 4' of door will stick into the garage. I think that the lift will be deep enough that it's not an issue. The vise grip solution will be a great safety measure though, just in case.

 

[slowyellow]

Also, try to get the aluminum ramps with your lift. The steel ones are crazy heavy and have sharp edges. I ended up throwing my steel ones in the trash after a couple months and buying the Race Ramps instead.

I'll likely grab the race rams, or have my local fab shop make some aluminum ramps. I'm for sure not paying 1200 bucks for ramps! The rolling jack is going to be the big addition to the lift.

 

[Stuart in MN]

You didn't get ramps with the lift? It wouldn't be too difficult to build some out of plywood and 2x4 scraps, the only thing that may take a little thought is making a method of latching them to the ramps so they don't slide out when driving on and off.

As for moving the lift around it can also be done with four of those cheap furniture dollies from Harbor Freight, it's just a little more work.

 

[SILVERPLATE]

Shop around for the ramps, you can do better than that. Most four posts come with castors. Moved my lift around a couple of times. Makes it easy. Quick search on google found them for 300 bucks.

 

[slowyellow]

I did get ramps, but it’s just the stock ones. I’d like longer ones, and I’ll likely have my local fabrication shop make some for me.

 

[Skyman]

A ceiling receptacle above the lift's power unit is a very good idea, IMHO. It keeps the cord out of the way, and (presuming it's not a twist-lock connector) it provides an immediate emergency power disconnect in the event that the contacts in the power unit's switch weld themselves closed - an occurrence that many have experienced. If you need to kill power in such a situation, just grab the cord and pull it out of the receptacle.

 

[slowyellow]

It’d be easy enough to just put 220v outlets in the ceiling above those two spots. I wouldn’t think that’s a common occurrence but it’s a nice failsafe.

 

[Skyman]

It’s a bit more common than you might expect. Some of those momentary switches are not as robust as they should be.

 

[mikedodge]

Itll probably be in the way at the double door. Far easier to put it at the single door and figure out what to park where.

 

[Viper98912]

That's an awesome 3 car garage! I had a similar size as you in a previous house, except my ceiling was 11 ft high and my third bay door was only 8 ft wide. Also, your lofted area above the garage is super awesome - very square, very spacious, and that truss design is pretty sweet.

More than likely, you are going to want to put the lift in the single bay, as I did in my previous house. The reasons:

1) In general, the posts get in the way of everything - of you walking, of you moving stuff around, of cars and car doors, etc. Having the posts sit in the "space" between the wall (on one side) and the gap between the garage doors (on the other side) will maximize your area and comfort around the lift posts.

2) It's also somewhat annoying to walk out of the house and run into a lift (if you put it on the 16 ft door side) - both from a physical standpoint (hitting your head) but it'll also make your garage feel MUCH smaller because you've essentially created a huge wall.

3) If you were to put the lift off to the side of the 16 ft door, those darn posts (again) will get in the way of you being able to park a second car in the space. Remember that the posts sit outside of the drive-through width (of the posts), and you lose about another foot or so on each side of the drive-through width. Given that a 16 foot door is already too tight to park two cars without putting in door dings, it'll be even tighter. [Note: I have one of the "regular" 4-posts with an 80" drive-through width, which by today's car standards is already a little small. If you're buying the extra-wide lift version, you'll lose even more space to the left and right of the lift).

4) With 12 ft height, you should be able to stack two regular cars on the lift, but more than likely the power wagon will not fit. Trucks are just too tall, and the power wagon is even taller. More than likely, your power wagon will also not allow for a second car in your 16 ft door. You might get lucky with the lift height, but more than likely the power wagon will sleep outside. More importantly, if you don't use it, sell it and buy a different toy

 

[Stuart in MN]

If you don't use the 911 for a period of time (like if it's not driven in the winter) you may be able to gain a few inches by taking off the wheels and sitting it on blocks . The lift may then be able to go a little higher, allowing room for the power wagon underneath. That's not real convenient, just something to consider.

 

[slowyellow]

That's an awesome 3 car garage! I had a similar size as you in a previous house, except my ceiling was 11 ft high and my third bay door was only 8 ft wide. Also, your lofted area above the garage is super awesome - very square, very spacious, and that truss design is pretty sweet.

More than likely, you are going to want to put the lift in the single bay, as I did in my previous house. The reasons:

1) In general, the posts get in the way of everything - of you walking, of you moving stuff around, of cars and car doors, etc. Having the posts sit in the "space" between the wall (on one side) and the gap between the garage doors (on the other side) will maximize your area and comfort around the lift posts.

2) It's also somewhat annoying to walk out of the house and run into a lift (if you put it on the 16 ft door side) - both from a physical standpoint (hitting your head) but it'll also make your garage feel MUCH smaller because you've essentially created a huge wall.

3) If you were to put the lift off to the side of the 16 ft door, those darn posts (again) will get in the way of you being able to park a second car in the space. Remember that the posts sit outside of the drive-through width (of the posts), and you lose about another foot or so on each side of the drive-through width. Given that a 16 foot door is already too tight to park two cars without putting in door dings, it'll be even tighter. [Note: I have one of the "regular" 4-posts with an 80" drive-through width, which by today's car standards is already a little small. If you're buying the extra-wide lift version, you'll lose even more space to the left and right of the lift).

4) With 12 ft height, you should be able to stack two regular cars on the lift, but more than likely the power wagon will not fit. Trucks are just too tall, and the power wagon is even taller. More than likely, your power wagon will also not allow for a second car in your 16 ft door. You might get lucky with the lift height, but more than likely the power wagon will sleep outside. More importantly, if you don't use it, sell it and buy a different toy

Thank you, and it's kind of a dream attached garage setup for me. I'll eventually build a detached behind the house, but this one will be great for now! You make very good points and it makes me feel better about my initial thoughts! This lift is 110" from outside to outside of the posts, so she's pretty wide. As for the power wagon, it's not a ceiling height issues, its a truck vs lift height issues. It's to the point that it'd be less than an inch, and with the locks, I doubt that once it was on the locks, that the truck would fit. We'll see. But yes, it'll likely live outside!

And as far as the use of it, it's hard to have a house and not have a truck. I got rid of my raptor and got the power wagon because I didn't want to watch a REALLY expensive truck sit there and depreciate. The power wagon is a good truck and was 1/2 the cost of the raptor. That's a whole different story though!

 

[e-tek]

Just installing a BP/APEX 9K 2-post in my new 3 bay shop and am putting it in the center stall. I had originally installed a MaxJax lift in the left-hand stall but found it too hard to work around nezr tj a wall. This is going to to be way better! (Paint coming this spring!)

 

[slowyellow]

Just installing a BP/APEX 9K 2-post in my new 3 bay shop and am putting it in the center stall. I had originally installed a MaxJax lift in the left-hand stall but found it too hard to work around nezr tj a wall. This is going to to be way better! (Paint coming this spring!)

Good looking setup. How much room were you going to have if you put it in the other bay? As it sits I'm going to have about 29" from the post to the CMU portion of the wall, the outside portion of the ramp will be about 45" from the CMU portion of the wall. I think that'll be enough room to do decent work on that side of the car. That is also with the lift centered in that bay, I could always bias it a bit more away from the wall. The more I think about it, the more Vipers points make more sense!

 

[carcruse]

Be sure to take into account where your garage heater will be especially if it's an infrared tube heater, and its distance from combustibles requirements. You don't want the top vehicle's paint to get crispy.

 

[slowyellow]

I'm going to eventually drop in a couple of mini splits, so hopefully they won't get that hot! I'm sure the HVAC guy will tell me the best spot to put the evap units. I'd assume he's going to want to go on opposing sides of the garage.

 

[Byrdnyrd]

Slow yellow,
I just bought the new APEX foam ramps from Bendpak, I have an HD-9 4 Post and the stock ramps were a pain. The APEX ramps with the receivers is about $500

Cheers,
BN

 

[e-tek]

Good looking setup. How much room were you going to have if you put it in the other bay? As it sits I'm going to have about 29" from the post to the CMU portion of the wall, the outside portion of the ramp will be about 45" from the CMU portion of the wall. I think that'll be enough room to do decent work on that side of the car. That is also with the lift centered in that bay, I could always bias it a bit more away from the wall. The more I think about it, the more Vipers points make more sense!

It was more the post that was too close to the wall and was a pain to get around it, especially when carrying a tire and such. My doors are 10' wide so that only left like 3' to wall. If you have more room you'll have less of an issue. 29" is much more than I had!

 

[e-tek]

Slow yellow,
I just bought the new APEX foam ramps from Bendpak, I have an HD-9 4 Post and the stock ramps were a pain. The APEX ramps with the receivers is about $500

Cheers,
BN

Foam ramps? That's brilliant. How much do they weigh?

 

[e-tek]

I'm going to eventually drop in a couple of mini splits, so hopefully they won't get that hot! I'm sure the HVAC guy will tell me the best spot to put the evap units. I'd assume he's going to want to go on opposing sides of the garage.

I also went with a mini split. Installed it myself but had to wait until this weekend (less snow!) to pull a vacuum to complete the install.

 

[Byrdnyrd]

E-Tek,

The ramps are foam as in Structural Foam with a foam covering. It’s the same basic design as RaceRamps at about 1/3rd the cost!



I think they weigh 9 lbs each. The other benefit is that they clip onto receivers on the runways, the stock ramps are attached with pins.

The approach angle is also smaller than the stock steel ramps, which is good for the Miata. I never actually use the Ramps for the Land Rover!

Cheers,
BN