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What type of roof?

VietGnome

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Atlantic Canada, 30x40, planning for 5:12 pitch. We get decent dumps of snow/freezing rain in the winter, fairly hot summers, NIL for hail. Hurricanes occasionally, however not horrible winds by us, 12 year roof on our house, been in the house 5 years and never experienced any roof damage from storms. Roof looks near new.

I'm lost in the sauce of what type of roof. Architectural Shingles, Exposed Fastener, or Standing Seam.

I can put up architectural for under $5k, they'll go up quick, I'm confident we can do them with no issues, and they'll last perfectly fine. Allows me to direct some extra cash flow towards finishing the interior, heatpump, etc.

Exposed fastener will run me around $6k, seems quite simple, and also fast to go up. A few concerns I have are:
A) Screws - I've heard that people have to change out all the fasteners frequently. I've heard 7-10ish years. Slightly concerning/annoying.
B) Metal expanding - Sheets I'll be running are around 18'6", and I'm unsure if that length will put me at risk of metal expanding/contracting and loosening screws/growing screw holes.
C) I've heard one claim that snow/ice on the roof can cause the screws to get pulled up/loose and leak.

Standing seam is about 7.5-8k, and seems obviously the "best" choice, but as a DIY somewhat daunting. Requires lots of bending, very specific measurements, specific trim work, and most videos I've watched on it have had nuanced styles, therefor differing installs, trims, etc.

I'd like standing seam, but it seems like a lot, especially considering I have 12year old shingles on my house and they're in fantastic condition.

I'm back to leaning towards shingles, or exposed fastener if people think it's flat out better than shingles. Looking for peoples opinions/experience.

FWIW, construction will be trusses @ 24" OC, 5/8 Sheathing, full synthetic underlay, with ice and water shield 3' up, simple gable construction.

Also FWIW I'm budgeting $60k for the build, and we're hovering right around that 57-60k depending on roofing.
 
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BobnCO

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Architectural shingle's are very high quality now (compared to old 3 tab); I love standing seem.. when someone else is paying! Yes I looked at doing it (I have the skills, and have been on the roof when others installed) but as you note requires a few expensive specialized tools.
 

reader2580

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A click lock style hidden fastener metal roof is pretty easy to install DIY if the building is just a square or rectangle. The hardest part of installing my roof was bending the end to hook over the drip edge. My father helped me out and did nearly a hundred bends while I installed the panels on the roof. It took about the same amount of time to bend the end as to install the panel.
 

u2slow

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I went with DIY asphalt/fiberglas. I had the tools to make a go of it - nothing special.

Standing-seam metal wasnt in my skill wheelhouse, and too costly to hire out.
 

JohnX14

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Why so low of a pitch? Why not go maybe 8 pitch?

Either way, architectural shingles will last at least 30 years, if installed properly.

I'd do these or standing seam, but I don't see standing seam being anything less than double the architecturals.
 
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VietGnome

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Why so low of a pitch? Why not go maybe 8 pitch?

Either way, architectural shingles will last at least 30 years, if installed properly.

I'd do these or standing seam, but I don't see standing seam being anything less than double the architecturals.
Pitches that steep are quite uncommon out here, and I don't really see the need for it.

Thanks. Seems like the general consensus so far is shingles or standing seam. I'll keep looking into standing seam a bit but between the two I'd lean towards shingles just due to complexity
 

Stuart in MN

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You can get 40 or even 50 year warrantee on architectural shingles these days but they have to be installed by a certified roofer.
Will there be any dormers or roof penetrations or hips or unusual corners? Working around them and proper flashing will be more difficult with a metal roof.
 
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VietGnome

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You can get 40 or even 50 year warrantee on architectural shingles these days but they have to be installed by a certified roofer.
Will there be any dormers or roof penetrations or hips or unusual corners? Working around them and proper flashing will be more difficult with a metal roof.
None of that, just as simple as they get gable roof.

Unfortunately/fortunately it will be DIY, probably with help from a carpenter who's done his share of roofs. Certified roofer raises the price easily by double I'd say.
 

Superbowl

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The real question is, how old are you and are you sure how long you are going to live there???

I have been managing hundreds of rental houses for others for over 45 years and I still personally own rental houses I bought in the early 1980's so I have seen it all.

My personal house has a 2/12 pitch roof (the way I bought it) and when I redid it I used cheap three tab shingles as no one can see the shingles with that low pitch. They are rated for 25 years. If I am still alive and living there when the three tab shingles are shot I will reshingle. Perhaps by then the shingles that generate electricity will be a bargain.

With your pitch, the shingles will be visible so I would use architecture shingles that complement the house.
Keep it cheap for now and spend your money elsewhere. 25-35 years is too far out to waste money chasing roofing longevity.
 

larry4406

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I would ice guard the entire roof as soon as the sheathing is on.

Then you can DIY your shingles for as long as it takes you.

I like the look of the architectural shingle.

I love standing seam look but not the price.

I would never go with a screw down roof due to the zillions of holes in the roof and reliance on the screw gasket.
 

Superbowl

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I would ice guard the entire roof as soon as the sheathing is on.

Then you can DIY your shingles for as long as it takes you.

I like the look of the architectural shingle.

I love standing seam look but not the price.

I would never go with a screw down roof due to the zillions of holes in the roof and reliance on the screw gasket.
No, read the ice guard instructions. Many have a max time allowed to be exposed to the sun.
 

loganb

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I would default to arch shingles until there is a significant reason to not use them. So far I haven't heard one here
 

Skiff Builder

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Go Arch Shingles. 5:12 is a great pitch- can handle the snow yet fairly comfortable to diy. Every bag has complete instructions!

Will you be using a pnuematic nailer?

Also when the time comes to replace, you can do a reroof without ripping the old off- that should hold you for the next 50 years!!
 

reader2580

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I spent right about $6,000 USD for a Menards Pro-Snap roof (materials only). This is a snap lock hidden fastener roof. The price also included a high quality underlayment. I realize you don't have Menards in Canada.

My garage roof is 24x62 with a 4/12 pitch. Each panel was about 14 feet long. I ordered 95 or 96 panels. Two of the panels were extra as I didn't want to wait a few weeks if I damaged a panel or two. One panel fell off the 16 foot tall roof, but it was not damaged.
 
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BobnCO

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I spent right about $6,000 USD for a Menards Pro-Snap roof (materials only). This is a snap lock hidden fastener roof. The price also included a high quality underlayment. I realize you don't have Menards in Canada.
That’s pretty cool, I could see using this on some of my shop/shed projects..
 

WisJim

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We've bought and sold a few places in the last few years and have found that a lot of insurance companies seem to think that a roof over 12 years old is uninsurable--so the folks we sold our farmhouse to had to replace our 15 year old shingles that were considered 35+ year shingles. They were undamaged and in excellent condition.
 
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ALinCarolina

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If you can get standing seam for only 2500 to 3K more I would jump on the metal.
I am a big fan of metal roofing but also think exposed fastener roofing is insane. When I had a metal building put up a few years ago I had to search metal building companies to find one that would sell me a building without a roof so I could have a roofing contractor install a snap-lock standing seam.
 

mm08822

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If going with asphalt shingles, either 3-tab or architectural, make sure to provide the proper NAILING for high wind areas (e.g. 3-tab = 6 nails) and not staples. Also consider a smaller shingle exposure. Typical of 3-tab is 5 or 5.5". Change it to 4.5" as it helps provide more wind resistance. Not sure what architectural shingles require.

Take your time and nail everything properly............speed here is your enemy. I cringe whenever I see speedy roofers in town. Shingle love to wave at you in the following storms from those 🕳️'s.

Put the shingles down in spring/early summer, so the shingle seal strips can get heated up with the summer sun to lock the coarses together.
 

JohnX14

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Why so steep?

Our house is less that 5:12, like 4-1/2 :12, our garage is right at 5:12.
Usually the shingles install specs require at least a 4 pitch. I'd go 6 -8. 6 is easy to roof without sliding off. 8 gets tougher. All newer construction (last 30 years) around here are 10 - 12 pitch. But OP says 5 is common in his area.
 

Rst277

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If you can get standing seam for only 2500 to 3K more I would jump on the metal.
I am a big fan of metal roofing but also think exposed fastener roofing is insane. When I had a metal building put up a few years ago I had to search metal building companies to find one that would sell me a building without a roof so I could have a roofing contractor install a snap-lock standing seam.
How many barns are there with exposed fastener metal roofing in North America? A million? Sheathing, tar paper, screw the roof on, good for 50 years. Hardly insane as it's incredibly common.
 
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VietGnome

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If you can get standing seam for only 2500 to 3K more I would jump on the metal.
I am a big fan of metal roofing but also think exposed fastener roofing is insane. When I had a metal building put up a few years ago I had to search metal building companies to find one that would sell me a building without a roof so I could have a roofing contractor install a snap-lock standing seam.
My concern is more about the install. I think all in it might be more like 3-4K more. However it seems to require much more knowledge and harder install.

Paying a contractor for install would make any of the prices insanely high.

I would go with a steeper pitched roof to start with !
Why?

Usually the shingles install specs require at least a 4 pitch. I'd go 6 -8. 6 is easy to roof without sliding off. 8 gets tougher. All newer construction (last 30 years) around here are 10 - 12 pitch. But OP says 5 is common in his area.
The shingles I'm looking at require 2:12 or greater.
 
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VietGnome

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How many barns are there with exposed fastener metal roofing in North America? A million? Sheathing, tar paper, screw the roof on, good for 50 years. Hardly insane as it's incredibly common.
Biggest concern for me is the fasteners? Metal may be 50 years but I commonly see the need to replace fasteners ever 10-15.
 

Buckgnarly

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Biggest concern for me is the fasteners? Metal may be 50 years but I commonly see the need to replace fasteners ever 10-15.
Our screwed on metal fasteners lasted 30 years....that said we had standing seam put on last year when they started to fail. Roof material was good, just too many screws backing out. Standing seam is king up here, but then again we get lots of snow.
 

reader2580

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We've bought and sold a few places in the last few years and have found that a lot of insurance companies seem to think that a roof over 12 years old is uninsurable--so the folks we sold our farmhouse to had to replace our 15 year old shingles that were considered 35+ year shingles. They were undamaged and in excellent condition.
The insurance agents I have talked to say that insurance companies are not writing new policies for roofs over ten years old. I hope that doesn’t apply to a metal roof.
 

reader2580

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I would go with a steeper pitched roof to start with !
Why? Here in Minnesota 4/12 was common for many years. Many houses in the last few decades have steeper pitches, but that seems to be mostly for looks. A steeper pitch costs more for trusses, sheeting, and roofing materials.

My house and existing garage are 4/12 so I went 4/12 on my new garage. I also had a height limitation that 6/12 would have exceeded.
 

WisJim

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We had a pole shed and a barn addition, both built in the 1960s, with old galvanized pole barn construction. The roofing was fastened with nails with lead washers, no nice screws with gaskets back then, and about 10 years ago we started replacing some of the old nails with modern screws. Those roofs were leak free for over 40 years and I was surprised. I suspect today's screws and gaskets should be good for decades.
 

Codyboy

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How many barns are there with exposed fastener metal roofing in North America? A million? Sheathing, tar paper, screw the roof on, good for 50 years. Hardly insane as it's incredibly common.
👍
Biggest concern for me is the fasteners? Metal may be 50 years but I commonly see the need to replace fasteners ever 10-15.
Probably 99% of commercial steel buildings around here have exposed fasteners. Doesn't seem to be an issue.
 

sjvicker

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I did snap lock standing seam on my gable 40x72. The only different trim detail over an exposed fastener roof was a drip edge for the flap to wrap around. The only special tool I needed was a $60 hand bender to bend the flap for around the drip edge and a sheet metal clamp to finish it off. Mine came from Taylor metals.

The install was super fast and easy. About as fast as exposed fastener and much faster than shingles. I’m sold on snap lock standing seam.
 

racecougar

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I suspect today's screws and gaskets should be good for decades.
Like everything, it depends. Which type of screw, how was it installed, UV exposure, temp swings, avg rainfall, avg snow fall, and on and on and on.

If you're doing exposed fastener, at least move up to a ZXL screw to protect the gasket from UV exposure better than the cheap standard screws. I just went through the PITA job of replacing all 1,640 screws on my shop roof a couple weeks ago.

In the OP's case, I would not hesitate one second on choosing standing seam (or snap lock).
 

andyvh1959

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The insurance agents I have talked to say that insurance companies are not writing new policies for roofs over ten years old. I hope that doesn’t apply to a metal roof.
Oh,...that could easily go off into a rant about insirance companies, legalized extortion. I have an insurance review coming up wiht my State Farm agent, and the roof on my house was installed brand new December of 2002, my shop was a fall 2019 build, both asphalt shingled. I've heard stories of insurance companies dropping policies on homes with roofs over certain ages, even if not leaking.

I built my shop with a 5x12 pitch, and almost wish I had gone 6x12 pitch. I put on a standard architectural 30yr shingle roof. If I did it again I'd likely go 6x12 pitch with either steel or aluminum shingles that look like slate. A standing seam roof looks good too and sheds rain and snow naturally.
 

Rst277

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👍

Probably 99% of commercial steel buildings around here have exposed fasteners. Doesn't seem to be an issue.
I'm on the prairies where it is very dry all the time so that may be a factor, a leaky screw or ten will just not be an issue when the sheathing under the metal is baked in the sun for 4 months. The price of a fancy metal roof might make more sense in a wetter climate.
 

jkeyser14

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If going with asphalt shingles, either 3-tab or architectural, make sure to provide the proper NAILING for high wind areas (e.g. 3-tab = 6 nails) and not staples. Also consider a smaller shingle exposure. Typical of 3-tab is 5 or 5.5". Change it to 4.5" as it helps provide more wind resistance. Not sure what architectural shingles require.

Take your time and nail everything properly............speed here is your enemy. I cringe whenever I see speedy roofers in town. Shingle love to wave at you in the following storms from those 🕳️'s.

Put the shingles down in spring/early summer, so the shingle seal strips can get heated up with the summer sun to lock the coarses together.
Hah! Roofing companies never remove the plastic on the seal strips. It costs them too much time and money. Unless your in Florida of course.
 

mm08822

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Hah! Roofing companies never remove the plastic on the seal strips. It costs them too much time and money. Unless your in Florida of course.
The release strip is only to prevent the shingles from sealing together while in the package and on pallets.

Improper storage could cause the release strip to transfer from the rear of the shingles to cover the sealing tabs on the front of the shingle. This would be random and certainly all through an entire pallet(s) of bundles.

When they do transfer it is usually very hap-hazard and the strips blowing randomly in the wind.

There is no mfr requirement to remove each and every release strip from the rear of each shingle.
 

Codyboy

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Commonly? I've never heard of that being done.
Yeah I've never seen any one do it. I'm sure it happens but yeah its not common.
You'd think id have seen it a few times after passing by 100s of thousands of buildings over the years.
Eta
My shingle roof had hail damage and luckily it was replaced by insurance for the tune of 32k.
I'd gladly replace screws in 15 years if I had to pay for it.
The new house were building will have the same as the shop.
R panel.
 
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