Restoring lettering on plastic-handle tools

[nz44tool]

I couldn't find an existing thread on this topic (though I'm pretty sure it would have been discussed previously), so...
Does anyone have a good method for restoring the white paint often seen in the lettering on some plastic-handle tools (e.g. S-K, many others) without making a large mess and degrading the plastic around the lettering?
Would White-Out work? Or some kind of paint that could be easily wiped away from the surface surrounding the lettering?
Any help appreciated!

 

[leg17]

You might investigate lacquer stik.
Available in variety of colors.

 

[Beerhippie]

Would White-Out work?

Probably. I use Wite-out pens to fill the engraving on sockets, etc. I also use the Wite-out pens for a lot of metal marking, especially where I need the marking to survive heat--like free-hand plasma or torch cutting.

 

[nz44tool]

Thanks for the replies, folks - I bought some White-Out at the supermarket just now (who knew they would still carry something from the typewriter age??), will try it out.

 

[Beerhippie]

Let the Wite-out dry then scrape the excess off. I use my fingernails.

 

[d42jeep]

The results were mixed on the first one I tried. It could have just been that the embossing was worn down from use.
I’m going to let these dry overnight and scrape the excess off tomorrow,
-Don

 

[nz44tool]

The results were mixed on the first one I tried. It could have just been that the embossing was worn down from use.
I’m going to let these dry overnight and scrape the excess off tomorrow,
-Don

Yeah, that's what my attempts looked like as well - not great.
The Wite-Out doesn't stick to the plastic quite well enough.
Maybe there's a water-based paint that would work better.
...would like to hear from someone who's gotten a better result, either with Wite-Out or something else.

 

[gahrajmahal]

Haven’t tried it, but maybe use the edge of an old credit card as your scraper. I’m thinking a fingernail has a curved edge able to reach into the letters lower surface.

 

[floyd]

I’d try enamel model paint. Apply with small brush or q-tip. Then wrap a cloth rag tightly around you finger and dab it in thinner to wipe away the excess. The rag should be moist, not soaked in thinner. Several quick wipes using clean portions of the rag. I usually use lacquer thinner, but it’s pretty strong. I’d test it on the plastic first to make sure it doesn’t mar the plastic.

Make sure the recessed letters are cleaned thoroughly beforehand so you get good paint adhesion (detergent and a tooth brush)

 

[Davefr]

I'd use a sharp toothpick with a tiny drop of enamel model paint and just fill in the recess. Or maybe use these:

 

[4xdog]

If the imprint has enough depth, a Lacquer-Stik paint stick can work well. They're available in various colors and seem to harden after being rubbed in, at least enough to resist typical handing.

Here is one of my Milwaukee utility-blade knives in which I've filled in the imprints on front and back with a white Lacquer-Stik to be able to tell which one has a (white) ceramic blade. You'll note I still have some cleaning to do of the grained finish of the plastic to remove the last of the rubbed-in white paint. Sometimes I'll use mineral spirits on a Q-tip to help this process.

If the imprint is really shallow, this approach won't work well -- the burnishing needed to remove the excess will end up taking all the paint off.

 

[d42jeep]

I had semi-success with one. The others were fails. I guess I’ll just let them be.
-Don

 

[Beerhippie]

I guess the embossing just wasn't sharp or deep enough.

 

[humber2]

Try using a white crayon.

YMMV

 

[d42jeep]

It seems like the original color on some was gold.
-Don

 

[Beerhippie]

That would be Gold-out.

Some hide glue, gold leaf and a burnisher or two....

 

[4xdog]

It seems like the original color on some was gold.

I have special fat Stabilo gold and silver crayons I use for filling the imprints or engraving on vintage fountain pen barrels.

 

[pcrov]

Good news on the Gold-out: https://www.amazon.com/LA-CO-Markal...D146/143-1392773-6271543?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[59Sled]

I used a China marker/grease pencil with decent luck. The excess wipes off with a dry cloth.
Also this method is for more display purposes. I think if you were to use the tool then my method wear off fast.

I've also tried making the engraving a little deeper with a rounded off awl before. Mixed results on that. Some look ok and others came out terrible. In the end it wasn't worth it especially how much time it took not to go out of the lines and put a scratch on the handle.

 

[nz44tool]

I’d try enamel model paint. Apply with small brush or q-tip. Then wrap a cloth rag tightly around you finger and dab it in thinner to wipe away the excess. The rag should be moist, not soaked in thinner. Several quick wipes using clean portions of the rag. I usually use lacquer thinner, but it’s pretty strong. I’d test it on the plastic first to make sure it doesn’t mar the plastic.

Make sure the recessed letters are cleaned thoroughly beforehand so you get good paint adhesion (detergent and a tooth brush)

Thanks - I think this will be my next method to try.

 

[nz44tool]

This one came out quite good (Wite-Out), helped by the letter imprints for "Happy Home" being fairly deep. The model number, not so much. I wiped the excess away with some light swipes with 400 grit sandpaper.
I have my doubts the Wite-Out would stand up well to actual use. Also, it does look a little too new on an old screwdriver.

 

[nz44tool]

If the imprint has enough depth, a Lacquer-Stik paint stick can work well. They're available in various colors and seem to harden after being rubbed in, at least enough to resist typical handing.

Here is one of my Milwaukee utility-blade knives in which I've filled in the imprints on front and back with a white Lacquer-Stik to be able to tell which one has a (white) ceramic blade. You'll note I still have some cleaning to do of the grained finish of the plastic to remove the last of the rubbed-in white paint. Sometimes I'll use mineral spirits on a Q-tip to help this process.

If the imprint is really shallow, this approach won't work well -- the burnishing needed to remove the excess will end up taking all the paint off.

Interesting. The deep and clearly defined lettering definitely helps.
The tool has a lightly textured finish, which I guess made it hard to completely remove the residue "halo"

 

[garilla]

I have had some success using tub and tile white caulk to fill letters. The stuff sticks pretty good to plastic is water proof after drying. Smear a blob into the letters using a plasic spreader which works good. Plastic Coffee can top can work as spreader just cut to size. It spreads nicely, the spreader removes excess well. Let it dry, apply another coat and it gets better, clean up with the spreader, better than paint as it has thickness. There isn't much you can do with shallow letters though.

 

[nz44tool]

I have had some success using tub and tile white caulk to fill letters. The stuff sticks pretty good to plastic is water proof after drying. Smear a blob into the letters using a plasic spreader which works good. Plastic Coffee can top can work as spreader just cut to size. It spreads nicely, the spreader removes excess well. Let it dry, apply another coat and it gets better, clean up with the spreader, better than paint as it has thickness. There isn't much you can do with shallow letters though.

That's a good idea - will try that too.