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67CarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2008
Messages
763
Location
Outside Boston, MA
Tried to fix the overhead door opener. It's a Liftmaster 98022, and was working fine just the other day (isn't that always how it goes?). Now it's throwing a 1-5 error code, and we've progressed (regressed?) from a hum for 1-2 seconds (with no associated movement of the door) to just flashing lights. I've tried the manual release reset that's suggested by Liftmaster, but no luck. The safety sensors are aligned and happy. About to go remove the battery backup and unplug the thing to see if that helps, but otherwise I'm out of ideas.

It's a garage door opener, I'd like it to just work...
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,714
Location
Far NE Oregon
Sprayed the pub parking lot and access roads for weeds. Did something else--probably several something elses--then knocked off for the day to work on the Brick some more.

55181659117_0d7716b35e_o.jpg

Rear heater deleted, cantilevered corner leveled, leg added, under-bed lights installed, carpet vacuumed. I'll wire the lights via the harness for the deleted heater fan, giving me a handy switch on the dash for them. Maybe I'll get on that now.

Then re-pack the tools and **** in some sort of order....
 

ecotec

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 5, 2010
Messages
5,431
I swapped out the blades in a couple ph1 screwdrivers. The Racing Edition screwdriver was not good enough for my good screwdriver drawer, now it is.

I did not take a before photo. This is the after photo.IMG_5727.jpeg I also Super Lubed a 40971.IMG_5728.jpeg
 
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Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,177
Location
The Badlands
Tried to fix the overhead door opener. It's a Liftmaster 98022, and was working fine just the other day (isn't that always how it goes?). Now it's throwing a 1-5 error code, and we've progressed (regressed?) from a hum for 1-2 seconds (with no associated movement of the door) to just flashing lights. I've tried the manual release reset that's suggested by Liftmaster, but no luck. The safety sensors are aligned and happy. About to go remove the battery backup and unplug the thing to see if that helps, but otherwise I'm out of ideas.

It's a garage door opener, I'd like it to just work...

Are the springs busted? it could be stalling for the weight.
 

67CarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2008
Messages
763
Location
Outside Boston, MA
Are the springs busted? it could be stalling for the weight.
They look ok to me - the door's only been installed for about 1 year. I can manually open and close the door by hand just fine.
Other than terrible noises and metal flying into low earth orbit, how else does one tell that a torsion spring is busted?
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,714
Location
Far NE Oregon
They look ok to me - the door's only been installed for about 1 year. I can manually open and close the door by hand just fine.
Other than terrible noises and metal flying into low earth orbit, how else does one tell that a torsion spring is busted?
If the door opens and closes easily by hand, the springs are fine.

Does the opener work at all? Is the output of the opener turning when trying to open the door? I've had the drive wheel on the door get loose before, resulting in it just spinning on the shaft. Tighten the set screws and it's fine.
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,486
Location
Upstate New York
I wear glasses, so I always forget. My son has gotten pretty good at getting them on his own.
A friend waves off safety glasses because he's so delighted with his nifty new implants. Well, he waved them off in my shop, and a flying chunk of diamond got him. Luckily, I was able to pick it out of his eye. Now he looks for the after glasses on top of my toolbox.
 

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,177
Location
The Badlands
They look ok to me - the door's only been installed for about 1 year. I can manually open and close the door by hand just fine.
Other than terrible noises and metal flying into low earth orbit, how else does one tell that a torsion spring is busted?

If the door opens and closes easily by hand, the springs are fine.
This ^^^
 
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67CarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2008
Messages
763
Location
Outside Boston, MA
If the door opens and closes easily by hand, the springs are fine.

Does the opener work at all? Is the output of the opener turning when trying to open the door? I've had the drive wheel on the door get loose before, resulting in it just spinning on the shaft. Tighten the set screws and it's fine.
At this point I've got nuttin'! No clicks, no whirs, no turning, no gnashing of gears... just a bunch of flashing lights that I'm trying to decode. I'm out of the 1-5 error code (yay?) but now the durn thing won't respond to any input.

I can get by manually opening and closing the door for a little while, but I feel like I should be able to fix this. Unless it's a faulty logic board, but I'm hoping that's not the case.

As SWMBO tells it, she pushed the button, the door opened, she backed out, she pushed the button again, the door closed, she left to run errands. When she came back several hours later, she pushed the button, the door opened, she drove in, she pushed the button again, the door almost closed and that's when it started making a fuss, as it were.
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,486
Location
Upstate New York
Converted--reversibly--to LED and CR 18650 batts--in two banks, so I can get damned near 24 hours burn time!

If anyone here is scrapping a WWII warship, please save one of the bulkhead mounts for this for me!
They're not that difficult. It's just a steel strap with a vertical oval hole in it that's made to fit the oval bit on the back of your lamp. You turn the lamp 90 degrees, and push it in, then gravity locks it by swiveling down.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,714
Location
Far NE Oregon
They're not that difficult. It's just a steel strap with a vertical oval hole in it that's made to fit the oval bit on the back of your lamp. You turn the lamp 90 degrees, and push it in, then gravity locks it by swiveling down.
I ken that. But there has to be some kind of spring mechanism to keep it from rattling and popping out on it's own in heavy seas--or on rough backroads.

Gravity isn't always down relative to the vehicle.
 

Lassen Forge

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2014
Messages
15,115
Location
The romantic hills of central Umbria, Italy,
Are you going to do the foundation work yourself?

Foundation is fine.... it was the top that came down, actually the walls and floor are / were for the most part fine - some stone separation, but nothing critical. We just had a new floor poured a few years ago, it was some of the old (100-150+ year old) 3x3(ish) cross beams that gave way, a couple of them looks like they got wet and then spongy soft and deformed, then slid out of their niches in the wall. Construction here is nothing like in the states - the roof/ceiling is supported by massive beams - like 8x8 or 10x10 - (which were fine) that support square smaller beams on like 8-12"ish centers (which in this case got wet, warped, and came out of the "sockets" in the stone walls) on which rest pavimento (flattish bricks) on which the roof lives (also terracotta).... AS LONG AS the terracotta is in one piece and doesn't leak, it's an amazingly durable system. Remember "Lincoln Logs" and how they fit together? Kindasorta similar.

The good news is - the mains are still in place, the walls, while weaker (I'll need to do some re-mortaring as soon as it warms up a bit, maybe next week, to fix that) are still standing, and while it's been effing COLD here the past few days, everything is somewhat cleaned up now, I have a plan forward, and once we get materials (and as long as I can keep government eyes away, so they don't shut us down and delay the (deleted) out of things - did I mention the onerous Italian bureaucracy?? ) it should be short work to put it all back together.

BTW... originally the wood was local - used to be huge swaths of ancient oak, massive trees that provided the wood for such things. Unfortunately (or fortunately) replacing the huge beams (which seem to be OK) would be costly - crazy money we don''t really have. The smaller ones, while still pricey, aren't too bad. Apparently the adjacent property lost one of the main beams some time in the past, and the owners replaced it with a steel I beam, so there is that option as well.

All in all - while it was a snowy panic before, now it seems more manageable now that the dust has settled! .
 
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niget2002

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
11,123
Location
Josephine, TX
A friend waves off safety glasses because he's so delighted with his nifty new implants. Well, he waved them off in my shop, and a flying chunk of diamond got him. Luckily, I was able to pick it out of his eye. Now he looks for the after glasses on top of my toolbox.
I have a face shield for when things are really flying
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,486
Location
Upstate New York
I ken that. But there has to be some kind of spring mechanism to keep it from rattling and popping out on it's own in heavy seas--or on rough backroads.

Gravity isn't always down relative to the vehicle.
I've taken down and replaced hundreds of them. So no, not like I imagine you're thinking. There's just a metal bracket, a little thinner than the space between the foot and the base of your lamp's bracket, with a little upset at the bottom to engage that little tang at the bottom of the lamp side of the bracket pair and tighten it. Your lamp has the tang bent in. It's supposed to point straight down to provide the springiness.

My words don't describe it well, it's so simple.
Watch this video, they have a good picture of the whole deal.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,714
Location
Far NE Oregon
I've taken down and replaced hundreds of them. So no, not like I imagine you're thinking. There's just a metal bracket, a little thinner than the space between the foot and the base of your lamp's bracket, with a little upset at the bottom to engage that little tang at the bottom of the lamp side of the bracket pair and tighten it. Your lamp has the tang bent in. It's supposed to point straight down to provide the springiness.

My words don't describe it well, it's so simple.
Watch this video, they have a good picture of the whole deal.
You mean this tab:

55183834463_1a94ce2c93_o.jpg?

It's not exactly springy.

I'll watch that video after work.

These are the only other marks on the lantern:

55183932744_53472248b0_o.jpg

They're on the left side of the lantern with it facing me.

BTW: When they call this a "Battle Lantern", they ain't kidding! It's made of heavy gauge steel and fully welded. It doubles as a flashlight and anti-boarding weapon.
 
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pima67

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2009
Messages
303
Location
Tucson, AZ
67carguy
I had a different problem with my LM and after some 4 or 5 service calls from installer, I called LM tech support. Spent a bit over an hour with him doing various tests and adjustments, he finally sent me a new module. Then called the installer but they just replaced the whole unit after switching the batteries. Worked fine since then (almost 2 years).
 
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