Craftsman 113.298030 with a delta t2 fence

[jorp_porp]

Hi! I've just about had it eith my jobsite saw after snapping the arm that attached the fence to the table. I was browsing marketplace, and I saw this:




I'm thinking that the fence alone is worth the $100 asking price. Only issue, owner says the blade 'needs to be straightened out a bit', but they can't elaborate. I'm guessing that it just needs a trunnion adjustment.

Anyone have thoughts on this purchase? Anything in particular that you'd check out in person?

 

[alinc100]

Trunnions on contractor saws are notoriously tough to align. There is a PALS system to assist with that. The fence is a lower end version of the much sturdier Biesmeyer fence. The tube rails are thinner, bulkier,etc. If it was me and I was planning to use the saw a lot I'd look for a used cabinet saw like a Delta Unisaw or one of its clones. For those that say a cabinet saw takes up too much room: The footprint of a cabinet saw is less than that of a contractors saw. Is just heavier. Depending upon where you live and search functions I've seen Unisaws ready to work for $200. While not optimal, tube lock fence, this Unisaw is available in my neighborhood for $75

 

[jorp_porp]

Yeah, before I busted my jobsite saw, my plan was to hold out for a unisaw. It seems though that many seem to be wired for 220?

I did see this rockwell cabinet saw listed in an estate sale, but their initial asking price of $460 seemed a bit high -

 

[rayik]

I was given a version of that Craftsman table saw (113.999040). Updated the fence system. Used it a lot.

It's very unsafe. Does not have and cannot attach riving knife to it. Will not be in the tools I hand down to my kids some day.

 

[shibertus]

I had a similar Craftsman 113 with updated fence. Worked well after giving it a complete service with new bearings, pulleys, etc. It was a pain to adjust the blade for square and not particularly precise. As others have mentioned it cannot accept a riving knife. I used a Microjig splitter with mine. If this is something you plan to keep for a while, would recommend holding out for a nicer saw.

 

[alinc100]

Yeah, before I busted my jobsite saw, my plan was to hold out for a unisaw. It seems though that many seem to be wired for 220?

I did see this rockwell cabinet saw listed in an estate sale, but their initial asking price of $460 seemed a bit high -

The Rockwell in your pictures is a very low -end saw. I wouldn't consider it an option at that price.
Many of the early Unisaws say pre-1955 were wired with a convertible motor 110/220.

 

[jorp_porp]

Dang well thanks guys. I'm just bummed because I have multiple projects right now that I can't move forward on.. one of them is kind of critical.

I can deal with the lack of a riving knife, if the tradeoff is that I have a sturdy, well built, precise machine. I'm done with not being able to trust that i'm getting accurate and reliable cuts.

Im not convinced that my jobsite saw is particularly safe, even with the riving knife. For one, trunnion isnt perfectly aligned, and there's no way to adjust it. Causes pinch. And i had the friggin entire carriage drop when the height adjustment screw stripped.

Can anyone recommend what to look for in these old saws? What looks solid to my eye is often not so.

 

[alinc100]

Dang well thanks guys. I'm just bummed because I have multiple projects right now that I can't move forward on.. one of them is kind of critical.

I can deal with the lack of a riving knife, if the tradeoff is that I have a sturdy, well built, precise machine. I'm done with not being able to trust that i'm getting accurate and reliable cuts.

Im not convinced that my jobsite saw is particularly safe, even with the riving knife. For one, trunnion isnt perfectly aligned, and there's no way to adjust it. Causes pinch. And i had the friggin entire carriage drop when the height adjustment screw stripped.

Can anyone recommend what to look for in these old saws? What looks solid to my eye is often not so.

What are you attempting to do? Could it be done with a track saw? Router? Where are you located?
Things to look for:
ease of adjustment
accuracy of adjustments
is the saw blade parallel to the fence?
cast iron= less vibration
is the fence sturdy with no deflection?
are the settings repeatable?
does the HP of the saw ,blade dia/tooth count equal what task I am trying to accomplish?

Riving knives are great if you are ripping stock. Riving knives get in the way if you are using a crosscut sled, making dados , stopped cuts, etc.
Many obstacles can be overcome with push sticks, featherboards, hold down clamps,etc.

 

[jorp_porp]

What are you attempting to do? Could it be done with a track saw? Router?

I like to work with hardwood. Right now - making a face frame for my terrarium and I need to break down some 4/4 cherry lumber. Not trying to do high volume pro work, just building stuff for around the house. I like old tools, as long as they aren't too big of a job to tune, and definitely not looking for a full restoration job right now. I already have my delta jointer and atlas drillpress in various states of repair lol. I'd be open to spending up to 1k on a newish saw, but It would be preferable to spend much less on something used.

I'm currently limited to 110V and a very small 1 car garage.

Where are you located?

Southwest MI. I can drive a few hours to pick something up, but it would probably involve renting a truck to do so.

Things to look for:
ease of adjustment
accuracy of adjustments
is the saw blade parallel to the fence?
cast iron= less vibration
is the fence sturdy with no deflection?
are the settings repeatable?
does the HP of the saw ,blade dia/tooth count equal what task I am trying to accomplish?

Riving knives are great if you are ripping stock. Riving knives get in the way if you are using a crosscut sled, making dados , stopped cuts, etc.
Many obstacles can be overcome with push sticks, featherboards, hold down clamps,etc.

 

[jorp_porp]

Just saw this get posted. At least it has the better fence?

 

[Jgaz]

Go. Go now and look at it if you are serious about replacing your saw

 

[alinc100]

Southwest MI. I can drive a few hours to pick something up, but it would probably involve renting a truck to do so.

OK I'm just outside of Detroit. Here are some FB listings:
This one is kinda high but meets the 110 requirement:https://www.facebook.com/share/18Eaw6eazS/

This is an old ad,but still up ,may be convertible to 110 https://www.facebook.com/share/14dgUaCXSt2/

Personally I'd still rather have a cabinet saw over a contractors saw but: https://www.facebook.com/share/1CSQZRewdB/

A craftsman saw with cast iron wings like this is IMHO better than the steel stamped ,newer saw you had above: https://www.facebook.com/share/1BKs6LrXgg/

 

[alinc100]

Still a better option than the craftsman in the OP : https://www.facebook.com/share/14YmYC4CkdX/

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[alinc100]

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[alinc100]

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[alinc100]

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[driftpin]

Always a good idea to put your location below your avatar. It helps people to know if they have something for sale you may be interested in, vs being 'geographically undesirable.'

Look at the Powermatic saws, the cabinet grade 10" #66 is better than the contractor grade #64 Artisan's saw. I have both. Do I need both? No, but I haven't gotten around to selling one.

 

[alinc100]

Always a good idea to put your location below your avatar. It helps people to know if they have something for sale you may be interested in, vs being 'geographically undesirable.'

Look at the Powermatic saws, the cabinet grade 10" #66 is better than the contractor grade #64 Artisan's saw. I have both. Do I need both? No, but I haven't gotten around to selling one.

Very true. In this instance the 1st Unisaw I posted above was for sale within 5 miles of me. It was $75. had I known from the start this morning the OP is a few hours away in SW MI, I'm in SE Mi , I likely could have gotten the saw /process started and dealt with logistics at a later time.

 

[jorp_porp]

OK I'm just outside of Detroit. Here are some FB listings:
This one is kinda high but meets the 110 requirement:https://www.facebook.com/share/18Eaw6eazS/

This is an old ad,but still up ,may be convertible to 110 https://www.facebook.com/share/14dgUaCXSt2/

Personally I'd still rather have a cabinet saw over a contractors saw but: https://www.facebook.com/share/1CSQZRewdB/

I sent him a message. I've not heard of this platinum edition, I'll have to read up. I wouldn't be surprised if someone got the jump on me though, my work week starts tomorrow and logistically anything i have to travel for will be a challenge. Never arranged something like this before. Im guessing I'd see it in person, put some money down, and come back with a truck.
https://www.facebook.com/share/1CSQZRewdB/

A craftsman saw with cast iron wings like this is IMHO better than the steel stamped ,newer saw you had above: https://www.facebook.com/share/1BKs6LrXgg/

I do see tons of these posted, most in bad condition, but this one actually looks nice. I agree with you on the wings, stamped steel is usually a turn off. My first saw (SUPER cheap off brand) was impossible to align / get level. bad experience there.

 

[jorp_porp]

Very true. In this instance the 1st Unisaw I posted above was for sale within 5 miles of me. It was $75. had I known from the start this morning the OP is a few hours away in SW MI, I'm in SE Mi , I likely could have gotten the saw /process started and dealt with logistics at a later time.

Added location! Also dang, that's super kind. I've never driven for something that I couldn't fit in my car. Wouldnt mind some pointers on organizing something like this, and what to expect / keep in mind.

 

[jorp_porp]

After sleeping on this, as much as I hate to admit it, I think my best option is to either fix my saw, or purchase a new jobsite. I'm VERY space limited in my tiny one car garage, and anything I buy now, Ill have to move again since our two year plan is to buy a house - and a pole barn or large garage is on the short list of requirements.

This delta contractor saw is ~60 inches wide, and my garage is maybe 10 or 12 feet wide. I could rotate it, but then I'd struggle rip cutting without hitting my walls.

 

[jorp_porp]

How do y'all feel about these? I could probably fit these in my car if I broke them down, greatly simplifying pickup. I know they can come in 8" or 10", and that they are Right tilt blades. the long term plan would still be a unisaw once I buy a house with more space - but thats probably 2 years out.

On all of these, unsure if theyre 8" or 10".

Facebook

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I messaged this guy but i think i asked him too many questions and he didnt respond lol: https://www.facebook.com/share/18b6yLdUju/

I'm not sure if this has the wings: https://www.facebook.com/share/1c9MMtkuER/

Just wanted to share this one, i couldnt fit this fence in my shop. https://www.facebook.com/share/1Anc5a57zw/

 

[alinc100]

first thing you need to understand the footprint of a cabinet saw is less than that of any contractors saw. The contractors saws all have a motor/belt hanging out the back. A cabinet saw has the motor within the confines of the cast iron top. With a mobile base you could honestly tuck a cabinet saw up against a wall when not in use. Fence-wise the length(cutting capacity) is not a variable/factor since a 30" or 52" or whatever length fence is the same on a contractors saw or a cabinet saw. Making use of flip up outfeed, table saw as assembly table, when not in use expands the usage/maximizing the square footage.

 

[PoorUB]

Just saw this get posted. At least it has the better fence?

I would be all over that Delta contractors saw! I had one just like it and it was a very good saw. I sold it only because I went to a 3 HP Unisaw. IMO, that Delta contractor's saw is a great saw. Plus it looks like it is in great shape. The Biesmeyer fence is a great fence and that is the pro version. It makes a Craftsman look like junk. That Delta sold for $600-$700 thirty years ago. $350 is a steal. For reference I sold mine for $500 and the guy that bought it never even came to look at it. He sent his kid over with $500 and a pickup!

Don't think about it, just go buy it!

Have you bought it yet??

 

[jorp_porp]

first thing you need to understand the footprint of a cabinet saw is less than that of any contractors saw. The contractors saws all have a motor/belt hanging out the back. A cabinet saw has the motor within the confines of the cast iron top. With a mobile base you could honestly tuck a cabinet saw up against a wall when not in use. Fence-wise the length(cutting capacity) is not a variable/factor since a 30" or 52" or whatever length fence is the same on a contractors saw or a cabinet saw. Making use of flip up outfeed, table saw as assembly table, when not in use expands the usage/maximizing the square footage.

I have so much stuff packed into my small space that I can barely get around my ~2x5' saw stand. I could eliminate most of the outfeed and rotate a saw 90 degrees, but then I'd hit the wall when ripping here's an embarrassing picture of my mess lol.

 

[jorp_porp]

I would be all over that Delta contractors saw! I had one just like it and it was a very good saw. I sold it only because I went to a 3 HP Unisaw. IMO, that Delta contractor's saw is a great saw. Plus it looks like it is in great shape. The Biesmeyer fence is a great fence and that is the pro version. It makes a Craftsman look like junk. That Delta sold for $600-$700 thirty years ago. $350 is a steal. For reference I sold mine for $500 and the guy that bought it never even came to look at it. He sent his kid over with $500 and a pickup!

Don't think about it, just go buy it!

Have you bought it yet??

It was gone 8 hours after it was posted, but it did look like a nice saw

 

[alinc100]

The saw is on a mobile base. You rotate it 90 degrees when ripping long stock to avoid "hitting the wall"

 

[RTM]

first thing you need to understand the footprint of a cabinet saw is less than that of any contractors saw. The contractors saws all have a motor/belt hanging out the back. A cabinet saw has the motor within the confines of the cast iron top.

Not all. My contractor's saw has the motor integral to the cabinet (direct drive), only a slight bump out the back for the motor, unlike a Unisaw, which has a big bump out. Craftsman 113.242502 12" w 5/8" arbor (bit of a *******). Here is a **** view.

 

[alinc100]

I have so much stuff packed into my small space that I can barely get around my ~2x5' saw stand. I could eliminate most of the outfeed and rotate a saw 90 degrees, but then I'd hit the wall when ripping here's an embarrassing picture of my mess lol.

Not all. My contractor's saw has the motor integral to the cabinet (direct drive), only a slight bump out the back for the motor, unlike a Unisaw, which has a big bump out. Craftsman 113.242502 12" w 5/8" arbor (bit of a *******). Here is a **** view.

OK Kirk MOST contractors saws. That noisy, direct drive demon is an exclusion. I just measured my Unisaw the cast iron surface is 27" deep and 36" wide. Not including the fence outfeed or side tables, that is the footprint of a Unisaw. Your demonic saw above is atleast 25" deep is it not? What "big bump out" do I have behind my Unisaw, 1946 110volt ,10" blade, right tilt, single phase? I will stand by my assertion that a cabinet saw takes up less space than (Most/almost all) a contractors saws

 

[alinc100]

 

[RTM]

What "big bump out" do I have behind my Unisaw, 1946 110volt ,10" blade, right tilt, single phase?

Don't they come with some unobtanium motor cover that is big enough to hide a football?

I remember an acquaintance looking for one of these for years in 2005 or so. Never saw his in person.

1454 - Unisaw Cast Iron Motor Cover

unisaw goose egg

www.renovoparts.com

My table is 27" front to back, plus 2" for that add piece sticking out, plus front rail. No idea how much leg is behind the table, it's turned sideways and buried right now

 

[alinc100]

Don't they come with some unobtanium motor cover that is big enough to hide a football?

I remember an acquaintance looking for one of these for years in 2005 or so. Never saw his in person.

1454 - Unisaw Cast Iron Motor Cover

unisaw goose egg

www.renovoparts.com

My table is 27" front to back, plus 2" for that add piece sticking out, plus front rail. No idea how much leg is behind the table, it's turned sideways and buried right now

27" +2"=29" 29" > 27" Thank you for proving my point. The goose egg motor cover is on the right side, has absolutely nothing to do with the front to back dimension and stays withing the confine of the right side of the cast iron table. I failed miserably a couple months ago a Unisaw came up for $450, with the goose egg and I didn't get to buy it as I was out of state working at the time.

 

[RTM]

The goose egg motor cover is on the right side, has absolutely nothing to do with the front to back dimension and stays withing the confine of the right side of the cast iron table.

Did not know that. Was never noted by the other party.

Not trying to start a ******* match, just added a slight clarification to your All. My day job has lots of people who get in trouble with definitive statements, I try to prevent career limiting moves on a weekly basis, so it rubs off on the rest of my life, to many people's annoyance.

 

[alinc100]

@jorp_porp I edited your picture what are the length and width of your current set up?

 

[alinc100]

Did not know that. Was never noted by the other party.

Not trying to start a ******* match, just added a slight clarification to your All. My day job has lots of people who get in trouble with definitive statements, I try to prevent career limiting moves on a weekly basis, so it rubs off on the rest of my life, to many people's annoyance.

well I'm a thrift shopper .I try very often to get the most bang for my buck. After nearly 50 years using table saws in some capacity or another, I've learned a few things. Among them the footprint of a cabinet saw is no greater, and usually less than that of a contractors saw. What you gain, even if it takes up a couple more square inches is stability, less vibration, greater accuracy/adjustment, usually better dust collection, quieter. Especially in the case of the OP who admits in 1-2 years would like to upgrade to a Unisaw. Sacrifice a bit now and save the effort and money from a saw you will upgrade again. Just like I explain with laser levels. I use them daily at work 5 years ago I bought the $200 Dewalt 3AAA battery crossline for $200, it really ***** batteries, then I bought the Dewalt12 v cross line for $350, much better usage of rechargable 12v batteries, then I bought the 12 volt Dewalt 3 beam x 360 degree laser for $550, when it got stolen I replaced it with an $800 Hilti 3x360 laser. Ultimately I spent the $800 I could have saved the $550,the $350, and the $200 , just by buying the $800 laser first.

 

[Aaron_W]

After sleeping on this, as much as I hate to admit it, I think my best option is to either fix my saw, or purchase a new jobsite. I'm VERY space limited in my tiny one car garage, and anything I buy now, Ill have to move again since our two year plan is to buy a house - and a pole barn or large garage is on the short list of requirements.

This delta contractor saw is ~60 inches wide, and my garage is maybe 10 or 12 feet wide. I could rotate it, but then I'd struggle rip cutting without hitting my walls.

If you are considering new, these Skil jobsite saws look decent. Nice features, and can pack up pretty small to be stored out of the way when not in use. They get pretty good reviews for what they are (a jobsite saw), and I know someone who bought one last year for a very small shop space and has been happy with it. No matter how nice, a jobsite saw is still a jobsite saw.


I have an older Craftsman 113 with the cast iron top and wings. It has the "dreaded" direct drive motor which makes it compact. It's ok, it does the job but I keep waffling on spending the time and money to make it better. I'd love to upgrade the fence, but for the price of a decent fence I would be well into buying a good, modern contractors saw or an older cabinet saw. While it could be better, it does what I need and costs me nothing at this point (paid $50 for it).

I much prefer old tools, but with a table saw you are not going to have all the modern safety features on a saw more than 15-20 years old. I'm not too worried this myself as I've been using them for years and still have 10 fingers, but I'd be leery of letting someone else use it, or selling it to a beginner. Still, I'm not against having a saw with better safety equipment.

On the just get a cabinet saw, I'm on board with they have a similar foot print, but what they lack is mobility. I can easily move my contractors saw into an out of the way corner. Not so easy to do with a 600lb machine. I still look for a good deal on a Unisaw or Powermatic but the shop Tetris is already rather challenging.

 

[alinc100]

On the just get a cabinet saw, I'm on board with they have a similar foot print, but what they lack is mobility. I can easily move my contractors saw into an out of the way corner. Not so easy to do with a 600lb machine. I still look for a good deal on a Unisaw or Powermatic but the shop Tetris is already rather challenging.

This is just 1 example. I have a mobile base that extends and supports the right side table as well. It takes no more effort to move a cabinet saw to the corner than a contractors saw. https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-universal-mobile-base-70222.html?hftm_sc=588&hftm_source=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21901739405&campaignid=21901739405&utm_content=173216750591&adsetid=173216750591&product=70222&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21901739405&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4d66i-4WpfLmWIp8LoXZuN_8&gclid=CjwKCAjw-
dfOBhAjEiwAq0RwI8M4phc2hAH_MDp6mBDkVQ9_UY_Z_Qj7W4cncrD7VtPKVeuMyRZnyRoC5-cQAvD_BwE
The other thing you will find is you actually start leaving the saw in the middle, you use the table as an assembly table, My Unisaw is on a UTC mobile base( I'm not sure they are made any longer), but my garage is cluttered so it never moves, but it could, has 6 wheels, levelers and I've outfitted it with a kick paddle/relay that cuts the power with a tap of my foot, leaving both hands free to handle toe material safely above the table.

 

[alinc100]

Portamate Mobile Base/Table Saw Extension Combo PM-3750 | Zoro

Order Portamate Mobile Base/Table Saw Extension Combo, PM-3750 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

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[Aaron_W]

This is just 1 example. I have a mobile base that extends and supports the right side table as well. It takes no more effort to move a cabinet saw to the corner than a contractors saw. https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-universal-mobile-base-70222.html?hftm_sc=588&hftm_source=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21901739405&campaignid=21901739405&utm_content=173216750591&adsetid=173216750591&product=70222&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21901739405&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4d66i-4WpfLmWIp8LoXZuN_8&gclid=CjwKCAjw-
dfOBhAjEiwAq0RwI8M4phc2hAH_MDp6mBDkVQ9_UY_Z_Qj7W4cncrD7VtPKVeuMyRZnyRoC5-cQAvD_BwE
The other thing you will find is you actually start leaving the saw in the middle, you use the table as an assembly table, My Unisaw is on a UTC mobile base( I'm not sure they are made any longer), but my garage is cluttered so it never moves, but it could, has 6 wheels, levelers and I've outfitted it with a kick paddle/relay that cuts the power with a tap of my foot, leaving both hands free to handle toe material safely above the table.

Yeah, I have something like that under my current table saw. I have a **** excuse for a concrete floor, cracked and uneven with wide expansion gaps. Essentally an enclosed patio. It was probably installed 80 years ago by a wandering tribe of baboons.

That is a me problem though, somebody with a decent smooth garage floor those would help a lot.


I'm mostly onboard with the idea that if you can make a contractors saw work, you can make a cabinet saw work. I'm just pointing out 100lbs vs 600lbs does make a difference even if they similarly sized. Worst case I can always lift my saw over obstructions.

I know the quality of machine would be a big step up and I would probably use the table saw a lot more than I currently do. I don't like contractor saws, but they are better than no table saw.

 

[jorp_porp]

Portamate Mobile Base/Table Saw Extension Combo PM-3750 | Zoro

Order Portamate Mobile Base/Table Saw Extension Combo, PM-3750 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

Wow, only 50 bucks for that mobile base.

Also, the table is about 36" x 60". It technically is of a size that it could be rotated, but i've been in a constant state of trying to build stuff to store stuff while buying even more stuff. It's so hard to move stuff to organize it when there's no where to temporarily put it. There's definitely scrap wood that I need to get out of here, and stuff to store up in the rafters.