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reader2580

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Hah! Roofing companies never remove the plastic on the seal strips. It costs them too much time and money. Unless your in Florida of course.
Everything I have read online says to not remove that plastic. Even GAF has a web page stating not to remove the plastic.
 

dscheidt

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Oh,...that could easily go off into a rant about insirance companies, legalized extortion. I have an insurance review coming up wiht my State Farm agent, and the roof on my house was installed brand new December of 2002, my shop was a fall 2019 build, both asphalt shingled. I've heard stories of insurance companies dropping policies on homes with roofs over certain ages, even if not leaking.

I built my shop with a 5x12 pitch, and almost wish I had gone 6x12 pitch. I put on a standard architectural 30yr shingle roof. If I did it again I'd likely go 6x12 pitch with either steel or aluminum shingles that look like slate. A standing seam roof looks good too and sheds rain and snow naturally.
The problem with asphalt shingles, at least for insurance companies, is that susceptibility to wind and hail damage goes up dramatically with age, and there's not a good way to test for that. The shingles can look perfectly fine, and be leak free, but then suffer unnoticed (or noticed but not repaired, which the home owner will claim not to have existed) damage from a wind or hail storm, and then leak. The insurance company then has to pay an expensive claim for the water damage.
 

Codyboy

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See the link I posted above.
From your Google search link.
The truth is the need and opinions are all over the place. 5 to 10 years, scroll further down and its 20 to 50 years.
Even if at 15 years to 20 years its cheaper and easier to replacScreenshot_20260402_113426_Chrome.jpge screws than a whole roof for 32k in the example I noted on my house. F that.
 

racecougar

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From your Google search link.
The truth is the need and opinions are all over the place. 5 to 10 years, scroll further down and its 20 to 50 years.
Even if at 15 years to 20 years its cheaper and easier to replacScreenshot_20260402_113426_Chrome.jpge screws than a whole roof for 32k in the example I noted on my house. F that.


Yes, that gets back to what I said in my post about variables. Most sites I've found point to an expected lifespan of 5-15 years on the standard/cheap screws depending on climate. Texas and Ohio are pretty different with respect to climate. The gist is that screws will eventually leak. Better screws can last longer before leaking. The standard screw is junk, IMO, compared to some of the better options out there. I replaced mine with the Atlas UltiMate design, but even going to ZXL's is a big step up from the standard junk. Regarding cost, the OP was looking at just $1500-$2000 more to jump from R-panel to standing seam. That's a no-brainer to me. Heck, just replacing the screws on my 30x60 took me 12 hours and cost $350.

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andyvh1959

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Instead of aluminum or SS caps, why not just use stainless steel screws period? Given the SS screws are going through sheet metal into wood structure there is no likelyhood of the SS screws galling and jamming. Though on a steel structure, SS screws into the steel could gall and jam before getting tight.
 

racecougar

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SS would slightly increase the likelihood of breaking screws off when installing/removing. The larger issue IMO is that they wouldn't stick in a magnetic setter/bit. Oh, and then there is cost.
 

Skiff Builder

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30x40 @5:12 = under 14 square (plus overhangs). If you go with shingles and your supplier can boom them up to the ridge, you'll be looking at 2 days to complete solo or with 1 helper (pnuematic).
 

PoorUB

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Usually the shingles install specs require at least a 4 pitch. I'd go 6 -8. 6 is easy to roof without sliding off. 8 gets tougher. All newer construction (last 30 years) around here are 10 - 12 pitch. But OP says 5 is common in his area.
5:12 is about the limit of my pain threshold for shingles. 6 or 8? Someone else can do the job!
 

Jeff Ivers

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I am in Oklahoma and we get significant winds and hail. Built my shop in 91 with a self-installed shingle roof which has since been replaced with a self-installed exposed screw steel roof (about 19 years ago). Built the house in 92 with shingles installed by the contractor - now on 4th roof on the house due to wind/hail and shoddy shingles and workmanship. Built the barn in 02 with exposed screw metal. Have had no problems with barn roof and none with re-roofed shop. My experience says exposed screw metal.
 

reader2580

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Instead of aluminum or SS caps, why not just use stainless steel screws period? Given the SS screws are going through sheet metal into wood structure there is no likelyhood of the SS screws galling and jamming. Though on a steel structure, SS screws into the steel could gall and jam before getting tight.
It generally is not the screw itself failing. What generally happens is either the rubber washer goes bad, or the screw starts getting loose over time and letting water in. I have seen very short screws used that came loose.

These issues are why I used hidden fastener metal roofing. Menards had one option that used exposed screws to fasten the ends of the hidden fastener panels. Why would I go with hidden fastener panels only to put exposed screws in?
 

andyvh1959

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Then instead of a synthetic rubber washer, which is either neoprene or EPDM, the washer should be nylon or Teflon. Especially Teflon which is more UV resistant. But that is a cost issue. So a hidden fastener is a better choice. But overall, the newer metal roofing options that have hidden fasteners are the better choices, like those that look like shingles or slate.
 

reader2580

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Hidden fastener costs about 40 cents more per square foot than exposed fastener at Menards. My 1,800 square foot roof cost about $700 more for hidden fastener. (Price for roofing material only. Does not include trim and screws.)
 

Higgins

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Oh,...that could easily go off into a rant about insirance companies, legalized extortion. I have an insurance review coming up wiht my State Farm agent, and the roof on my house was installed brand new December of 2002, my shop was a fall 2019 build, both asphalt shingled. I've heard stories of insurance companies dropping policies on homes with roofs over certain ages, even if not leaking.

I built my shop with a 5x12 pitch, and almost wish I had gone 6x12 pitch. I put on a standard architectural 30yr shingle roof. If I did it again I'd likely go 6x12 pitch with either steel or aluminum shingles that look like slate. A standing seam roof looks good too and sheds rain and snow naturally.
We have State Farm. Minor roof issues, but the said the roof had passed its EOL. Offered 1,500 for repair/replacement, 5,700 deductible. So we loose! I just wished that SF had been proactive, several yrs ago and suggested we needed to replace the roofing.

Also had lightning hit last year! We had $25K sub pump failure. Glad we has that policy add on, however, that 25K only covered pump(S) replacement, and clean up. It was another 25K to re drywall, install trim, paint etc.
 
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driftpin

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My alma mater, Florida International University.

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That would be, "Hurricane Andrew," August 24, 1992, for which I was on-duty on fire-rescue. The area of devastation and the examples of the damages sustained were monumental.

Our home south of Ft. Lauderdale was spared the loss of its roof, as the hurricane in the last 24 hours took a big turn to the south. Homestead, home of the NASCAR racetrack, was ground zero.

We just replaced an architectural shingle roof on a SFR (single family residential) dwelling after 20 years. We had installed strap-over rafter/trusses to fight against uplift. The house was a 1961 construction and it was built w/hurricane clips. A simple gable roof. The work was done in March, and we've had several inches of rain, including some torrential downpours and the repairs/roof replacement did what they're supposed to do. The house also got new impact-rated windows and doors, so a substantial outlay to solidly increase the windstorm and water-resistance. I suspect that I'll possibly be gone by the next time work of this nature will need to be repeated (re-roof, the new windows/doors I expect to last 50+ years). The OEM awning non-impact windows/doors lasted 60+ years and only one broken-glass fenestration.

Pic below, Homestead FL Air National Guard. Someone dropped the initiative on evacuating some expensive aircraft.

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Shingle staples are not allowed in FL.
 

andyvh1959

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Another reason I prefer Wisconsin. I can deal with winter and mosquito seasons. No hurricanes, no wildfires, no landslides, no flooding (river caused) where we live, no sink holes, occasional tornadoes but very rare. So I'll see what my SF agent has during my review.
 

Codyboy

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Another reason I prefer Wisconsin. I can deal with winter and mosquito seasons. No hurricanes, no wildfires, no landslides, no flooding (river caused) where we live, no sink holes, occasional tornadoes but very rare. So I'll see what my SF agent has during my review.
John Winger: "C'mon, it's Czechoslovakia. We zip in, we pick 'em up, we zip right out again. We're not going to Moscow. It's Czechoslovakia. It's like going into Wisconsin."Russell Ziskey: "Well I got the **** kicked out of me in Wisconsin once. Forget it!"
 

finn

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How many barns are there with exposed fastener metal roofing in North America? A million? Sheathing, tar paper, screw the roof on, good for 50 years. Hardly insane as it's incredibly common.
I have a garage, shop, and sold a house, all with exposed fastener steel roofs.

All less than 25 years old.

All leaked before 15 years.

Call me disillusioned with metal roofs.
 

FullRaceMerc

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If you go architectual, I'd suggest a Class A fire rated shingle. At work we are encouraging it.

We were too close to the Jan 7 Altadena fire for comfort. Thankfully nothing but heavy smoke, soot, & ash made it here, but the fire stopped about 4 blocks away. Later watching a documentary about folks who fought it in their neighborhood directly in the path between the fire & our neighborhood, I think those folks saved us.

I had been working on being prepared for a wildfire up at the retirement place, but at home we're far enough into the city to have thought it would never happen here.

Class A, B, and C Roof Ratings Explained (2025) | CEDUR https://share.google/24D3iisvBOveQW0so
 

Beemer

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Why so low of a pitch? Why not go maybe 8 pitch?

Either way, architectural shingles will last at least 30 years, if installed properly.

I'd do these or standing seam, but I don't see standing seam being anything less than double the architecturals.
Around here it has gotten difficult to get house insurance if an asphalt shingle roof is over 19 years of irregardless of what grade the shingles are rated for.
Our very heavy 50 year shingles, at 20 years old, last year cut our insurance company options to 4 our of 12 companies; 8 would not quote.
Afraid to look forward to the next renewal. Expecting to be forced into roof replacement before it's physically needed.
Apparently the problem is abuse of insurance by owners' having minimal damage and statutes requiring getting entire new roofs.
 

Beemer

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My neighbor got a standing seam roof last year. I see the slickness and difficulty in possibly walking the roof as a liability when I see pollen piled up in the spring and leaves in the winter and fallen branches anytime. And then there is the need to regularly sweep the chimney for the wood burner.
 

andyvh1959

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I don't look forward to State Farm telling me I have to replace my roof now or suffer loosing coverage. Leverage I don't care for.
 

472scout

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Standing Seam. Once you have done a couple of sheets the rest will be cake.

My neighbor got a standing seam roof last year. I see the slickness and difficulty in possibly walking the roof as a liability when I see pollen piled up in the spring and leaves in the winter and fallen branches anytime. And then there is the need to regularly sweep the chimney for the wood burner.

Got to have a rope and harness.
 

racecougar

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My neighbor got a standing seam roof last year. I see the slickness and difficulty in possibly walking the roof as a liability when I see pollen piled up in the spring and leaves in the winter and fallen branches anytime. And then there is the need to regularly sweep the chimney for the wood burner.
Got to have a rope and harness.
Depends on the slope (4:12 is no concern, for instance), part of the country (is pollen even an issue for the OP?), proximity to trees, etc. Does the OP even have a wood burner? It's been difficult to get insurance on outbuildings with wood burners for some time now.
 

Beemer

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Depends on the slope (4:12 is no concern, for instance), part of the country (is pollen even an issue for the OP?), proximity to trees, etc. Does the OP even have a wood burner? It's been difficult to get insurance on outbuildings with wood burners for some time now.
No trees in Missouri?
 

racecougar

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No trees in Missouri?
Nope. Not a one.

Pretty sure the OP is in Canada, but regarding things here in Missouri, walking a 4:12 is no problem, pollen doesn't pile up on any of the roofs around here, leaves and fallen branches aren't an issue if you don't have trees right next to the building, and again, outbuildings with wood burners have become difficult to insure.
 

tarbellb

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I just put up my own hidden fastener snap-lock metal roof, 22 squares for the house, 9 squares for the shop. Very simple T shaped hip and valley 4:12 roof

I will say this, roofing gets substantially harder with more features ie roof design, skylights, vents, etc... and steepness. You dont want to roof on more then 6-8/12, or anything more then a story or two off the ground.


You can order hidden fastener snap-lock roofing materials from a local supplier, it will come as a package, and you better be really good at fully understanding ALL the different aspects to your roof design.
I would HIGHLY recommend you find a local metal roof company that will shoot the panels on site and provide some sort of support for unseen situations.

Cost wise- my insurance and 3 different roofing companies all quoted within $1000 of each other for basic shingle replacement, about $32k for the 30squares. Metal quotes came in from $45k to $55k.

My total cost was closer to $20k, and I paid a crew to remove the old shingles, dump run, replace 20 sheets of OSB, and do 100% Ice & Water membrane.

The main body goes up quick, its the details that if you havent done it before takes research and execution.

Turned out great, I dont ever want to put another roof on in my life

Feel free to PM OP

PXL_20251113_223222337.jpgPXL_20251113_223206853.jpgPXL_20251113_223242427.jpg
 

reader2580

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I did my snap lock metal roof myself. However, my roof is as plain as it gets. Just a 62 foot long rectangle that is 18 squares. No gables, valleys, or even plumbing vents. I would not have gone the DIY route it was more than just a plain roof.

I got one quote of $500 per square just for labor. That did not include the material.
 

tarbellb

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I did my snap lock metal roof myself. However, my roof is as plain as it gets. Just a 62 foot long rectangle that is 18 squares. No gables, valleys, or even plumbing vents. I would not have gone the DIY route it was more than just a plain roof.

I got one quote of $500 per square just for labor. That did not include the material.

Perfect example of when it makes sense to go metal, wouldnt be surprised if metal wasnt a faster install then shingles
 

BurtEggley

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drive around your area and see what roofs seem to be holding up the best. Then talk to a roofing supply in the area to see what they get the least headaches from.
 
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