OSB vs Metal vs Pallet Walls

[VietGnome]

In the debate of how I want to eventually finish the interior of my 30x40x12 stick build.

Im planning white metal for the ceiling to keep it bright, and the ease of install/maintenance.

Was originally planning OSB walls, due to it being cheap, and the ability to mount stuff anywhere.

I've thought of metal, as it will be clean, bright, and easy install. However I'm concerned about A) the price, B) how loud that will make the shop, and C) the lack of ability to mount stuff everywhere.

I've also considered tearing apart pallets and doing a shiplap style. I'm pretty sure the labor might make me homicidal to tear down all the pallets, but it could be a good winter job. I realize it will be in the realm of 170 pallets for the entire building.

It should also have the same mount everywhere ability as OSB, but look much cleaner.

Thoughts?

 

[MovingAlong]

Torn up pallets will look like torn up pallets and split easily when trying to mount anything to the pieces. Also pretty weak when trying to mount something heavy..

I'd lean toward painted plywood (or OSB if you must).

 

[VietGnome]

Y

Torn up pallets will look like torn up pallets and split easily when trying to mount anything to the pieces. Also pretty weak when trying to mount something heavy..

I'd lean toward painted plywood (or OSB if you must).

Yeah fair point with the pallets splitting.

I've seen them turn out real nice looking it you take your time and sand/finish them. But the strength is a good point.

I'll look into ply. The only thing that hurts is 1/2" OSB is about $800, 1/2" Ply is about $2200

Though I'm sure the ply will look a lot nicer in the end (especially painted), and will take paint much better.

 

[NUTTSGT]

From what I have done with experience, I would put metal on ceiling and spend a little more for decent plywood for the walls.

Still wood on the walls but the plywood definitely looks nicer.

 

[VietGnome]

From what I have done with experience, I would put metal on ceiling and spend a little more for decent plywood for the walls.

Still wood on the walls but the plywood definitely looks nicer.

This place has a really bad habit of talking me into spending more money.

 

[NUTTSGT]

This place has a really bad habit of talking me into spending more money.

Yes, happen all the time here and members follow along with ease most of the time.

 

[finn]

My 32x54 at the house has a metal ceiling in the raised 32x24’ work area and 1/4” osb in the lower ceiling 32x30’ parking storage area. The walls are Sheetrock painted white, but I started adding galvanized suding up to about the five foot level as an accent. I don’t hang things on the wall in there except display items like my grandfather fishing creel, antique crosscut and buck saws, a 36 Ford truck grill duel, and some decorative signs and banners.

My shop is much larger than the garage, and has a 16’ ceiling, painted osb walls to the 8’ level, and white steel above that. It also has surface mount electrical conduit and outlets, as well as air lines.

I do hang things on the osb walls in the shop but don’t particularly care for the rough surface. It was painted a light color years ago, and needs it again. I’m considering doing a skim coat of mud to smooth it out a little when I repaint. I have a few “decorator items” hung on the steel walls, but will eventually run a 1x6 board around the perimeter at the 10’ or 12’ level to hang antique parts like grills, valve covers, etc.

My shop was already built with the steel over OSB walls, but if I was doing it from scratch I think I would go all steel but run a couple of bands of 1’x4 or 1x6 boards to anchor things I wanted hung on the walls, and add strategically located purlins behind the steel for cabinets, etc. I actually ran French Cleats to hang cabinets.

The steel is much easier to keep clean than any wood product.
, and doesn’t need finishing.

The building is fully insulated and I don’t notice any noise with the steel interior. The enclosed lean to isn’t insulated and is quite loud in a rainstorm, given the steel roof.

 

[66Caprice]

If you do go the pallet route. Just make sure they are ones that do not have a pesticides treatment on them.

 

[Technologyteacher]

I used pallet wood on my walls in my garage. I have had no problems mounting things on the wall with sheetrock screws.

 

[WildBill]

You can get one of those pallet busters and a nail popper for pallets, makes taking them apart pretty fast.

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

 

[dcg9381]

Thoughts?

I love the look of R-panel, but yea, difficult to mount stuff without doing an offset. And it's difficult (for me) to install. I did painted OSB in a shop where I'm hanging stuff. Looks good enough, but we have lots of levels of "shop interior here". You do you!

Pallet stuff is cheap, looks good, but a bit time consuming.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I used white painted BC plywood on my walls and have never regretted it for one second. Of course, when I did it the plywood was $20 a sheet.

 

[Fav Onefour]

You can get one of those pallet busters and a nail popper for pallets, makes taking them apart pretty fast.

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

I've been around a lot of pallets. One job used a couple semi loads each hour to keep our lines moving. In simple terms, we saw a lot of pallets in a day.
I'm amazed there are tools marketed just for the purpose of breaking apart pallets. I had rookie forklift drivers that destroyed pallets all day. Biggest problem with popping the boards is the variety of wood used. A lot of those pallets turned into kindling when boards started popping.
I don't know where you guys get pallets, but I've seen every kind of wood you could imagine. The main focus was to use the cheapest wood available. Board specs were all over the place too. Thickness and width is a variety pack.

I'm still having a hard time imagining how you line walls with pallets. Standard grocery pallet specs are 40" wide. The vast majority will be that size or shorter. How are you spanning studs?

If you want to go the pallet route, plan on a lot of extra pallets to weed through the mismatch and busted boards.

 

[WildBill]

I've been around a lot of pallets. One job used a couple semi loads each hour to keep our lines moving. In simple terms, we saw a lot of pallets in a day.
I'm amazed there are tools marketed just for the purpose of breaking apart pallets. I had rookie forklift drivers that destroyed pallets all day. Biggest problem with popping the boards is the variety of wood used. A lot of those pallets turned into kindling when boards started popping.
I don't know where you guys get pallets, but I've seen every kind of wood you could imagine. The main focus was to use the cheapest wood available. Board specs were all over the place too. Thickness and width is a variety pack.

I'm still having a hard time imagining how you line walls with pallets. Standard grocery pallet specs are 40" wide. The vast majority will be that size or shorter. How are you spanning studs?

If you want to go the pallet route, plan on a lot of extra pallets to weed through the mismatch and busted boards.

Last time I used a bunch of pallet boards for a project I got them from a tractor dealer. Really nice wood and as big of pallets as I wanted. If you find the right place they will have better pallets. I once got some from electronic assembly equipment that were made of really nice 6x6 and 2x10 hardwood, 20-24ft long. We built two decks and a tree house out of them. Also got some from an electrical supply house, those were super nice wood and beefy. Had spools of wire on them.

 

[Fav Onefour]

@WildBill , Sounds like you are talking about crate material. Big advantage is that most of those are spec built and used one time. That's a whole different world from what I was thinking.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

Skip the pallets. Way too much work for it to still look like pallets.

Go with plywood or OSB for the walls - either can be painted and you can hang things anywhere. Put metal on the ceiling if you want.

 

[Yankeefarmer]

Do you plan to hang stuff on every inch of wall space? I think OSB-even painted-looks terrible. I’d sheetrock and paint, then fasten plywood panels or use French cleats wherever I planned to mount stuff to the walls.

 

[ddurrett896]

I did 1x12. Looks pallet-ish and functional with the ability to hang anything anywhere.

 

[VietGnome]

Do you plan to hang stuff on every inch of wall space? I think OSB-even painted-looks terrible. I’d sheetrock and paint, then fasten plywood panels or use French cleats wherever I planned to mount stuff to the walls.

I just don't really know where or what I want to hang.

My biggest concerns with drywall is moisture and impact resistance.

Also **** mudding

 

[OccupantRJ]

Unless boards are ripped and installed at the same width per row there is going to be error accumulation due to various widths which are going to act as dust and insect havens. If welding and grinding in the shop it is also a good place for a stray spark to light off once it gets into a gap with dust bunnies. I worked around conveyors that moved filled cardboard cartons and the fine material that sluffed off the boxes was highly flammable if an ignition source hit it. Any welding work required extensive cleaning of the area with a vacuum. Some conveyors were installed in a concrete trough cast in the floor. I saw one light off once from a stray spark and it might as well have been gasoline with the speed it flashed down the trough.

 

[Notgrownup]

I did OSB painted with Zinsser primer I believe. Screwed on with Torx deck screws for easy removal if I ever need to get behind for any reason. OSB was below $10 a sheet then.

 

[VietGnome]

Unless boards are ripped and installed at the same width per row there is going to be error accumulation due to various widths which are going to act as dust and insect havens. If welding and grinding in the shop it is also a good place for a stray spark to light off once it gets into a gap with dust bunnies. I worked around conveyors that moved filled cardboard cartons and the fine material that sluffed off the boxes was highly flammable if an ignition source hit it. Any welding work required extensive cleaning of the area with a vacuum. Some conveyors were installed in a concrete trough cast in the floor. I saw one light off once from a stray spark and it might as well have been gasoline with the speed it flashed down the trough.

That's a very good point. Im leaning towards painted plywood.

I was also planning to line the corners where the enlventual welder will go with steel 6-8ft high

 

[OccupantRJ]

I did my ceiling with 7/16” OSB. I aligned all the joints as it was installed with deck screws. Nailers were applied between trusses as needed with free scrap wood crate material from work. Each sheet got a 45 degree bevel cut 1/4” deep all around it on the smoother side. When installed the sheets were spaced with a temporary 12d nail to leave a small gap. After fastening the gap was caulked and then smoothed with the corner of a wood block. After painting white this gave the general appearance of giant 4x8 ceiling tiles due to the surface texture and beveled edges.

 

[jblnut]

I did steel in my 54x72x18 and it doesn’t echo really at all. Most of the time if I’m doing something loud I’ll have hearing protection on anyway.

If you’re going to do wood and like things to look clean skip OBS and do a sanded plywood of some kind. It’ll paint nicer and look a whole lot better.

The last thing I’d ever do in a working space is sheet rock unless you like holes, scuffs and scratches all over.

 

[OccupantRJ]

That's a very good point. Im leaning towards painted plywood.

I was also planning to line the corners where the enlventual welder will go with steel 6-8ft high

I posted a picture of my welding corner with painted plywood walls earlier in the thread. I have had zero issues welding in the area or with grinding throwing sparks directly on the walls for what that input is worth to you. My wall sheets were lightly fastened first with an air finish nailer to hold them in place faster, then i used a combined drill and countersink to drill for coated deck screws to end up flush. After painting over they blend in pretty well. Nailing would have worked, but I tend to work in overkill mode and wanted to be able to hang heavy items. The plywood had a bit of bow tension in it and the screws pulled it nice and tight to the studs.

 

[racecougar]

I have one shop with a drywall interior and the other with liner panel (steel). Both are insulated and furnished (they aren't empty buildings). I certainly cannot tell the difference in noise/echo level. If/when I put up another building, I'll go with liner panel again. I appreciate the durability, clean-ability, and appearance.

As far as hanging stuff goes, I can't say that it's been an issue at all. I marked my column locations on the stem wall before I put the liner panel up, and the girts are plainly visible, as that's where the screws are. Lightweight stuff is hung with magnets, mid-weight uses the existing screw holes in the liner panel, and heavy-weight is lagged into columns/girts.

 

[VietGnome]

I have one shop with a drywall interior and the other with liner panel (steel). Both are insulated and furnished (they aren't empty buildings). I certainly cannot tell the difference in noise/echo level. If/when I put up another building, I'll go with liner panel again. I appreciate the durability, clean-ability, and appearance.

As far as hanging stuff goes, I can't say that it's been an issue at all. I marked my column locations on the stem wall before I put the liner panel up, and the girts are plainly visible, as that's where the screws are. Lightweight stuff is hung with magnets, mid-weight uses the existing screw holes in the liner panel, and heavy-weight is lagged into columns/girts.

Yeahhh photos like this make me want to go the metal route. Looks so clean. I'll likely get the ceiling done, then measure and get the exact height for the wall panels.

Marking the studs on the stem walls is absolutely the way to go. Ill be doing blocking at 4 and 8 feet so it should make securing the panels a breeze.

Also that's a clean looking F150

 

[crooney1189]

For the metal wall guys, are you using 26 ga or 29 ga?

And for those who have insulated behind the metal walls, is it with batts or spray foam?

My worry is the lack of noise/echo with metal panels in insulated buildings may be due to batt insulation which is "puffier" obviously, and likely sits against the backside of the metal somewhat reducing vibrations. In my situation I'll be spray foaming the walls (30x50x14, 2-1/2" tube on 4' centers, tube steel building with metal skin - whole other discussion topic, I know...) but the spray foam would not be contacting the backside of the interior metal panels like batts likely would, and would offer no vibration resistance in that regard.

My biggest hesitation/worry with a metal panel interior is it would turn the space into an echo chamber, otherwise I'd strongly consider metal myself. It's durable, no finishing needed, and easy to maintain. All huge positives. Currently I've been planning on going with wood walls primarily due to the noise concern.

 

[strength_and_power]

The fastest and easiest way to break down a pallet is to put a long metal cutting sawzall in your sawzall and run it down the joint cutting the nails. You can then use a punch and push the nails out if you wanted. 2-3 minutes a pallet tops.

In my shop, I put OSB from 4’-8’ and went over that with 98” pieces of W panel ( R panel without the smaller ribs). I spaced the bottom 14ga angle on the floor to match the front of the OSB. J-trim at the top gives it a finished look. The girt is at 96” so the extra 2” made it bit of a trough where I ran MC cable for the electrical. In the corners, I picked up 4” angle the same color as the panels since the panels will never end perfectly in the corners. I used the same J-trim around the door, switches and panel.

 

[The Metric System]

Of the 3 options given I would go with metal because:

1. It's the only one that won't burn.
2. You can stick a magnet to it. Reconfigurable surface mounting with no holes and no labor is a real benefit.

 

[MichaelP]

My view on this issue is a choice between practicality and esthetics. I decided to go with unpainted OSB on the walls and the ceiling and never really regretted the decision. I guess I could've painted it, but to me it looks more "natural", and have no needs to patch and repaint holes if I change the arrangements. The only area where I put metal (galv. sheet) on top of OSB was behind grinders/sanders/buffers.

On the ceiling I have power outlets (120, 240, 240 3-phase), wires and j-boxes, cord reels, copper air lines, exhaust, lights (with switched outlets), etc., and it was very easy to add or remove anything which I did many times over the years.

 

[Yankeefarmer]

I just don't really know where or what I want to hang.

My biggest concerns with drywall is moisture and impact resistance.

Also **** mudding

That’s why you get to do it your way!
My two shops have never been dehumidified and I’ve never-in 40 years had moisture problems except localized to ceiling areas (never walls) where there was a roof leak that I didn’t address soon enough. I’ve also never had impact damage, but I’m not a bull in a china shop when I work.
As for mudding, I have twice found that I could hire my walls hung and taped for less money than I could buy the Sheetrock for. Drywall and insulation contractors get much better pricing than the average Joe.

 

[VietGnome]

That’s why you get to do it your way!
My two shops have never been dehumidified and I’ve never-in 40 years had moisture problems except localized to ceiling areas (never walls) where there was a roof leak that I didn’t address soon enough. I’ve also never had impact damage, but I’m not a bull in a china shop when I work.
As for mudding, I have twice found that I could hire my walls hung and taped for less money than I could buy the Sheetrock for. Drywall and insulation contractors get much better pricing than the average Joe.

Knowing me I'd put a hole in it within the 1st week, and my wife would put 2.

I also think I can get the drywall for around 800-900. I don't think theres a chance in hell i could get it hung for that price!

 

[racecougar]

For the metal wall guys, are you using 26 ga or 29 ga?

And for those who have insulated behind the metal walls, is it with batts or spray foam?

My worry is the lack of noise/echo with metal panels in insulated buildings may be due to batt insulation which is "puffier" obviously, and likely sits against the backside of the metal somewhat reducing vibrations. In my situation I'll be spray foaming the walls (30x50x14, 2-1/2" tube on 4' centers, tube steel building with metal skin - whole other discussion topic, I know...) but the spray foam would not be contacting the backside of the interior metal panels like batts likely would, and would offer no vibration resistance in that regard.

My biggest hesitation/worry with a metal panel interior is it would turn the space into an echo chamber, otherwise I'd strongly consider metal myself. It's durable, no finishing needed, and easy to maintain. All huge positives. Currently I've been planning on going with wood walls primarily due to the noise concern.

Speaking for myself: 29 ga liner panel and R-19 batts. The insulation absolutely touches the backside of the liner panel and dampens sound reflection. Same goes for blown fiberglass atop the ceiling.

 

[Jakeweldsalittle]

I did 3' metal wainscot on the bottom of the wall. Made to order from my local Amish guy. He charged me $3 a linear foot. I used 1x3 firring strips to get everything straight, then .20' luan plywood over that after insulation. Then covered the seams in 1x3 strips. This was all after raising my attic joists roughly 18" for more headroom. I may paint someday when I feel like it, or I may not. Only 20x30 or so, but my woodstove heats it very comfortably in the cold PA winters, sometimes too warm.

 

[u2slow]

I put 1/2" plywood on the walls..
refuse to use OSB - too many bad experiences.

Ceiling is still open. It will be white liner panels when done, but may strap it first as an easier way to retain insulation and VB.

 

[VietGnome]

Speaking for myself: 29 ga liner panel and R-19 batts. The insulation absolutely touches the backside of the liner panel and dampens sound reflection. Same goes for blown fiberglass atop the ceiling.

How much clearance do those doors have?

 

[kngelv]

I did tongue in groove pine boards for my recently built 24’ x 24’ x 12’.

James

 

[racecougar]

How much clearance do those doors have?

I set them up to have 6" clearance to the ceiling. I could have gone a touch higher, but I wanted to be certain I'd have room for the jackshaft operators. The main thing was having room to open the door with a car raised all the way up on the lift without any worry of crashing the door into the car.

 

[VietGnome]

I set them up to have 6" clearance to the ceiling. I could have gone a touch higher, but I wanted to be certain I'd have room for the jackshaft operators. The main thing was having room to open the door with a car raised all the way up on the lift without any worry of crashing the door into the car.

Awesome, didn't know you could go that high. Everywhere seems to recommend 12"