how many sharpenings can you get out of a chainsaw chain?

[stickshift]

I have an Oregon Chainsaw Chain (3/8" LP Pitch, .050" Gauge for 14" Bar, 52 Drive Links) that I have sharpened 5x using a chainsaw file and guide (https://www.homedepot.com/p/5-32-in-Chainsaw-File-and-Guide-532FGPC2/315207022) and a flat file to take down the rakers. I waited a long time to do the first sharpening, but that really brought it back to life. More recently, this chain has been used a couple of times to cut stumps and large roots, where there was some exposure to dirt. Since then, sharpening helps, but it's mediocre in making chips.

I've been doing 2 passes on each tooth. Maybe I need to be make more passes since it has been in contact with dirt? Worst case, I need a new chain, which I'll need anyway because this chain is no longer performant.

Also, how many sharpenings before the round file needs to be replaced? How can you tell when the file is worn out?

 

[PCustoms]

I have an Oregon Chainsaw Chain (3/8" LP Pitch, .050" Gauge for 14" Bar, 52 Drive Links) that I have sharpened 5x using a chainsaw file and guide (https://www.homedepot.com/p/5-32-in-Chainsaw-File-and-Guide-532FGPC2/315207022) and a flat file to take down the rakers. I waited a long time to do the first sharpening, but that really brought it back to life. More recently, this chain has been used a couple of times to cut stumps and large roots, where there was some exposure to dirt. Since then, sharpening helps, but it's mediocre in making chips.

I've been doing 2 passes on each tooth. Maybe I need to be make more passes since it has been in contact with dirt? Worst case, I need a new chain, which I'll need anyway because this chain is no longer performant.

Also, how many sharpenings before the round file needs to be replaced? How can you tell when the file is worn out?

Have you flat filed the rakers?

 

[stickshift]

Have you flat filed the rakers?

Yes, as mentioned in the OP - "and a flat file to take down the rakers".

That does make me wonder - since I don't have a depth guide, maybe the rakers are too tall relative to the cutting edge. I'll have to take a close look at that.

 

[PCustoms]

Yes, as mentioned in the OP - "and a flat file to take down the rakers".

Ok, missed that right after the link, I was looking to see what guide you were using

Pic of a tooth?

 

[BurtEggley]

depends on what you hit, and how long you are on it.

 

[Hank11]

Unless you do some serious damage, you should be able to get a maybe a couple of dozen sharpenings out of your chains. You do need to get a depth gauge and use it maybe every half dozen sharpenings.

The number of strokes with the file is determined by how many it takes to clean up the worst tooth. So you have to look at the whole chain and figure out about what it takes and then do that. The other thing is that you should probably take your chain to someone with a grinder who can put it back into 100% condition. I do this with chains that I don’t seem to be able to file well, then I get to start over with fresh angles.

And I think you already know this, but do everything you can keep it out of the dirt.

 

[PWC Repair]

Some chains are better than others, and it depends also on whether the chain has been in the dirt or maybe overheated by a damn black locust tree........real problem around here......but I usually get 4 or 5 good sharpenings before I can tell the chain is ready for the recycle bin.

 

[jkeyser14]

Some people will sharpen them until their cutters are so thin they start breaking off. It must be 2 dozen times or more.

 

[Rst277]

I have an Oregon Chainsaw Chain (3/8" LP Pitch, .050" Gauge for 14" Bar, 52 Drive Links) that I have sharpened 5x using a chainsaw file and guide (https://www.homedepot.com/p/5-32-in-Chainsaw-File-and-Guide-532FGPC2/315207022) and a flat file to take down the rakers. I waited a long time to do the first sharpening, but that really brought it back to life. More recently, this chain has been used a couple of times to cut stumps and large roots, where there was some exposure to dirt. Since then, sharpening helps, but it's mediocre in making chips.

I've been doing 2 passes on each tooth. Maybe I need to be make more passes since it has been in contact with dirt? Worst case, I need a new chain, which I'll need anyway because this chain is no longer performant.

Also, how many sharpenings before the round file needs to be replaced? How can you tell when the file is worn out?

Two passes is a touch up, not sharpening. File each tooth until it is sharp, don't count strokes. Ideally all the teeth wear evenly but a little variation doesn't matter. There is a wear line on the chain teeth. Scrap metal after that point. If the file is not filing off obvious metal particles, you can use a brass brush or bang it on something to see if it's clogged but they wear pretty fast so replace as necessary. Wear gloves when sharpening the chain on the saw, if you slip you'll cut your knuckle open.....

 

[stickshift]

Unless you do some serious damage, you should be able to get a maybe a couple of dozen sharpenings out of your chains. You do need to get a depth gauge and use it maybe every half dozen sharpenings.

Thanks, will order this depth gauge: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RA7A?tag=atomicindus08-20

And I think you already know this, but do everything you can keep it out of the dirt.

Yep, but you know how it goes, sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

 

[stickshift]

Two passes is a touch up, not sharpening. File each tooth until it is sharp, don't count strokes. Ideally all the teeth wear evenly but a little variation doesn't matter. There is a wear line on the chain teeth. Scrap metal after that point. If the file is not filing off obvious metal particles, you can use a brass brush or bang it on something to see if it's clogged but they wear pretty fast so replace as necessary. Wear gloves when sharpening the chain on the saw, if you slip you'll cut your knuckle open.....

Thanks, very informative.

Also found this video, which is informative about the importance of getting raker height correct.

 

[PWC Repair]

^^^That's why I bought one of these........https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/sharpening-tools/2000760?store=18098&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20155428902&gbraid=0AAAAADtqLJHNdsaLHeEvPo_jQvLuFRJ_j&gclid=CjwKCAjw14zPBhAuEiwAP3-Eb6ijQQLs3VueVE5zZh8c0nT9ZobyZ4xc9uXHdKgvbBtOsoSk1LoQ0RoCgjwQAvD_BwE

....game changer for me.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Two passes is a touch up, not sharpening. File each tooth until it is sharp, don't count strokes. Ideally all the teeth wear evenly but a little variation doesn't matter. There is a wear line on the chain teeth. Scrap metal after that point. If the file is not filing off obvious metal particles, you can use a brass brush or bang it on something to see if it's clogged but they wear pretty fast so replace as necessary. Wear gloves when sharpening the chain on the saw, if you slip you'll cut your knuckle open.....

I might add, I spray my file with some penetration oil when sharpening to clean it out and wipe it with a shop towel. A clean file will do a better job.
I also mark, the first tooth with a sharpie when I start with a file, quick & easy reference point to know where to stop/start... I file from one side and then switch to the other side.

 

[PopcornSutton]

There is no magic number for the "number" of strokes per tooth. I don't believe in the method of measuring the shortest tooth and making them all the same, that's wasting the chain. But you have to file each tooth until it's sharp, there should be NO shine to the tooth edge. Any shine is not sharp. If you can "see" the edge, it's not sharp. They don't have to be all the same, just all sharp. Rakers have to be taken down as the chain is filed, not each time, but it has to be maintained.

 

[CraigStu]

I finally bought one of these.

https://www.northerntool.com/products/oregon-bench-wall-chain-sharpener-model-410-120-48269?ogmap=SEM%7CDSA%7CBING%7CSTND%7Cc%7CSITEWIDE%7C%7CNT%20DSA%20Feed%7CDSA%20Feed%7CALL%20PRODUCTS%7C361481939%7C1187473442406094&&utm_source=bing_PPC&utm_medium=NT%20DSA%20Feed&utm_campaign=&utm_content=ALL%20PRODUCTS&cmpid=361481939&agid=1187473442406094&tgtid=dat-2326016848613034:loc-4129&msclkid=b5d498fb806e1f5e3b5df11f4ebf9047&gclid=b5d498fb806e1f5e3b5df11f4ebf9047&gclsrc=3p.ds&gad_source=7&gad_campaignid=19581126863

This takes all the variation out of the job. I was having trouble w/ matching the left and right teeth just because of the difference in the way my arms work. Also had trouble w/ the flat file and getting all the teeth the same height. I have experimented w/ taking the rakers down an extra .010" and that really helps. It is a lot of $ but I now feel like I can make a chain not just better but equal to new.

 

[Rst277]

Thanks, very informative.

Also found this video, which is informative about the importance of getting raker height correct.

I file the rakers down a bit (5-6 strokes each) on a new chain and then leave them. If you file them too short, the saw becomes more difficult to control, too long and you're making sawdust not cutting wood. The saw should be cutting strips of wood, the size of grated carrot in coleslaw. You want to cut the wood, not grind it.

 

[johninct]

A touch up, maybe 1 or 2 strokes. If you saw sparks, maybe 5. I try to get each tooth about the same. more or less. Also, for me, one side of the chain requires maybe twice the strokes to keep the teeth about the same size.

 

[PCustoms]

I finally bought one of these.

https://www.northerntool.com/products/oregon-bench-wall-chain-sharpener-model-410-120-48269?ogmap=SEM%7CDSA%7CBING%7CSTND%7Cc%7CSITEWIDE%7C%7CNT%20DSA%20Feed%7CDSA%20Feed%7CALL%20PRODUCTS%7C361481939%7C1187473442406094&&utm_source=bing_PPC&utm_medium=NT%20DSA%20Feed&utm_campaign=&utm_content=ALL%20PRODUCTS&cmpid=361481939&agid=1187473442406094&tgtid=dat-2326016848613034:loc-4129&msclkid=b5d498fb806e1f5e3b5df11f4ebf9047&gclid=b5d498fb806e1f5e3b5df11f4ebf9047&gclsrc=3p.ds&gad_source=7&gad_campaignid=19581126863

This takes all the variation out of the job. I was having trouble w/ matching the left and right teeth just because of the difference in the way my arms work. Also had trouble w/ the flat file and getting all the teeth the same height. I have experimented w/ taking the rakers down an extra .010" and that really helps. It is a lot of $ but I now feel like I can make a chain not just better but equal to new.

I've thought about getting one, but at less then $25 a chain I'll just buy a chain every few years.

I will say that I've had a fairly new Oregon chain cut crooked shortly after installing. Haven't used another since, hoping it was a one off

 

[c39er]

Some people will sharpen them until their cutters are so thin they start breaking off. It must be 2 dozen times or more.e

I have done that many times.
I get my moneys worth out of my chains.
I use my saws a lot on my acreage.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I've got some older chains (and a bar) that I'll put on for stumps or other tasks that are likely to damage the chain. No idea how many times I've sharpened them (probably 30-40). When sharp they work fine on small soft trees (mostly willows). I barely notice the difference from a new or freshly sharpened chain.
I save my new chains for logs, harder woods or more precise uses.

 

[jblnut]

Everybody likes tools so go get yourself a decent grinder and a CBN wheel for the size chain you run. I sharpen a couple hundred chains a year so it was a no brainer for me but it makes things sooooooo nice. Grab yourself a few extra chains and you can swap a sharp chain on instead of having to sharpen right away.

I’d agree that you need to sharpen more than what you’re doing if you let the chain go that long.

 

[PCustoms]

Pic of a tooth?

@stickshift

 

[Hank11]

Another somewhat obvious piece of advice…
It is really nice to have 3-4 sharp chains on hand, ready to go.

 

[PCustoms]

Another somewhat obvious piece of advice…
It is really nice to have 3-4 sharp chains on hand, ready to go.

And a second bar, or second saw

 

[Superbowl]

I got an electric sharpener from Harbor Freight for $35.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=chainsaw%20sharpener

It is cheap garbage, but I was shocked to find it works well. I am embarrassed to have it in my tool collection as is is so cheaply made. I suspect I was able to make it work so well because I am very experienced in sharpening. A noob might not be able to get good results from one.

 

[67King]

^^^That's why I bought one of these........https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/sharpening-tools/2000760?store=18098&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20155428902&gbraid=0AAAAADtqLJHNdsaLHeEvPo_jQvLuFRJ_j&gclid=CjwKCAjw14zPBhAuEiwAP3-Eb6ijQQLs3VueVE5zZh8c0nT9ZobyZ4xc9uXHdKgvbBtOsoSk1LoQ0RoCgjwQAvD_BwE

....game changer for me.

+1. Can't imagine not having this. And I used it almost every time I take out the saw. 3 passes each link, and good to go. Have no idea how many times I've sharpened the chain, but a sharp chain is a glorious thing to have. I actually carry the sharpener with me when I take out the saw, as well.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... On the top of the tooth, is an angled line, to show the preferred angle, which is also a hint to where the tooth is "worn out",.....

 

[jblnut]

And a second bar, or second saw

It’s never a bad thing to have a few spares.


And a place to keep the ones that run and are ready for battle.

 

[PCustoms]

It’s never a bad thing to have a few spares.


And a place to keep the ones that run and are ready for battle.

You must pinch a lot of bars...

 

[jblnut]

No idea what you’re talking about.

 

[Rst277]

It’s never a bad thing to have a few spares.


And a place to keep the ones that run and are ready for battle.

That's quite the collection!!

 

[jblnut]

That's quite the collection!!

Well it starts with one saw then you think you need a larger saw then you think maybe a smaller more nimble saw would be nice then you get an even larger saw then your pops says he wants to keep his saw by you then you get a great deal on an even smaller saw then you get a whole bucket of Stihl 024/026/0260 parts and start to build a few more and then your wife asks why you need so many saws so you have to get a few more …..

 

[WisJim]

It’s never a bad thing to have a few spares.

I always got by with just 2 running saws, but we only cut the wood we needed to heat the house, and by the time I ran both saws out of gas I was usually tired and ready to go home, sharpen the chains, and rest for the next day. We were lucky to have friends and friends of sons who would spend a Saturday helping us cut, split and stack 8 to 12 full cords if we had the logs ready to go--rewarded with snacks during the day and pizza and beer when done. Then we would get a couple of years firewood all ready to use.
I always bought chain files by the dozen or more and put colored paint on the tang if I used more than one size for different saws. You always want to have good sharp files available.

 

[jblnut]

I always got by with just 2 running saws, but we only cut the wood we needed to heat the house, and by the time I ran both saws out of gas I was usually tired and ready to go home, sharpen the chains, and rest for the next day. We were lucky to have friends and friends of sons who would spend a Saturday helping us cut, split and stack 8 to 12 full cords if we had the logs ready to go--rewarded with snacks during the day and pizza and beer when done. Then we would get a couple of years firewood all ready to use.
I always bought chain files by the You dozen or more and put colored paint on the tang if I used more than one size for different saws. You always want to have good sharp files available.

Oh I would absolutely be fine with one or possibly two running saws lol. If I had to keep only two it’d be the 026 and 066 hands down. I bring a few with when we go cutting as some of them are getting older and I want to give them all some time to stretch their legs. Plus having a saw to step in if something happens to the “daily driver” is always handy.

So far this year (yes the stove is still going) I’ve burnt around 19 cord of wood heating the shop and house. I have around 3yrs of logs on property with around a years worth cut up ready to burn at all times. Plus I have a half dozen buddies that also have hungry outdoor boilers so well cut close to a hundred cord of wood a year to keep everyone warm.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Another somewhat obvious piece of advice…
It is really nice to have 3-4 sharp chains on hand, ready to go.

I have a 3 drawer portable tool box for all my chain saw stuff. Extra chains, 20" for the MS290 and 25" for the MS362. There's also a single 16" bar and chain in case I pinch a bar.

It stays in the bed of the truck and r can easily come back to get it while I cut at my parents place.


As a point of reference.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/chainsaw-tool-box.169016/

 

[Blk88GT]

This has been a very informative thread. I struggle to bring chains "back" after abusing them cutting stumps/low to the ground and have usually just replaced it with a new one. Maybe one of these sharpening machines is in the cards....

 

[NUTTSGT]

This has been a very informative thread. I struggle to bring chains "back" after abusing them cutting stumps/low to the ground and have usually just replaced it with a new one. Maybe one of these sharpening machines is in the cards....

I usually hit my chains with a file during the cutting season. Once I swap them out for a "SHARP" chain, they get a pass on the electric sharpener before the new fall season.

If I get one that I can't get resharpened with a file, it goes to the electric sharpener.

The electric sharpeners are nice and I you figure what you save when burning wood, they easily pay for themselves.

 

[Blk88GT]

I usually touch mine up when refuelling so that I can catch an issue before it becomes a bigger one. I have no experience with the electric sharpeners, but I have 3 saws and probably 15-20 chains. I don't cut wood for heat (yet) - just acreage management between 2 properties. My family benefits from my abundance of trees and heats their homes with my wood.

 

[jblnut]

I usually hit my chains with a file during the cutting season. Once I swap them out for a "SHARP" chain, they get a pass on the electric sharpener before the new fall season.

If I get one that I can't get resharpened with a file, it goes to the electric sharpener.

I do the same for chains. Touch them up when refueling and swap when performance goes down.

… I you figure what you save when burning wood, they easily pay for themselves.

I’ve justified around 20yrs of savings to Mama Bear because we’re “saving” all this money burning wood. The saws, dump trailer, mini-ex splitter, grapple, IBC totes, and the list goes on lol.

 

[nateo]

^^^That's why I bought one of these........https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/sharpening-tools/2000760?store=18098&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20155428902&gbraid=0AAAAADtqLJHNdsaLHeEvPo_jQvLuFRJ_j&gclid=CjwKCAjw14zPBhAuEiwAP3-Eb6ijQQLs3VueVE5zZh8c0nT9ZobyZ4xc9uXHdKgvbBtOsoSk1LoQ0RoCgjwQAvD_BwE

....game changer for me.

I picked up the cheap Amazon knockoff and it still works beautifully. It makes maintaining a chain dead easy.

I usually touch mine up when refuelling so that I can catch an issue before it becomes a bigger one. I have no experience with the electric sharpeners, but I have 3 saws and probably 15-20 chains. I don't cut wood for heat (yet) - just acreage management between 2 properties. My family benefits from my abundance of trees and heats their homes with my wood.

I'm an every-fill sharpener, too. I've gone until the saw was spitting sawdust and getting the chain back to fighting form after that takes forever. Staying on top of it means a couple strokes per side and you're throwing chips like a champ.

Plus it means a few minutes rest for the back while doing a lot of cutting, which seems more and more important as the years go by!