Can you successfully repoint a pry bar

[Shoreline_]

I wore out the tip of my Mac prybar. It's from 2008. I don't care much for the new handles of any of the major mfg. Can I hand file the end into shape or is it not through hardened?

 

[neophyte]

I wore out the tip of my Mac prybar. It's from 2008. I don't care much for the new handles of any of the major mfg. Can I hand file the end into shape or is it not through hardened?

Plenty of people reshape the tips of pry bars.
If the tip is already “worn out” there is likely little downside in trying.
The worse that might happen is you have a pry bar tip that is a bit soft, and which will wear quicker in future.

 

[gahrajmahal]

If it’s worn you can’t hurt it. I’d start with a sander first. Seems to put in less heat than a grinder.

 

[Copymutt]

Send it over, Ive got time this weekend

 

[Rusted Nut]

I’ve re-tipped pry bars, screwdrivers, chisels, etc… A hand file won’t hurt the temper, takes a little longer though.

 

[finn]

Seems like a prybar wouldn’t be through hardened. Caes hardening would retain ductility better.

Hand filing would be best, but if you’re through the case, it’s probably best to be mentally ready to replace it in short order.

 

[redwrench60]

If it’s just a little worn or boogered, touch it up with a file. If the tip is snapped or it’s really been abused, fix it slowly on a grinder with lots of dips in water to keep it cool. While grinding, if you see the steel turning blue or purple, you are going too fast and messing up the temper. It’s not complicated.

 

[rlitman]

Prybars aren't case hardened. They're not even all that hard. I've filed and ground dozens of them. In fact, I hardly have any that come from the factory with an edge to my liking. I'm always breaking down burrs, rounding sharp corners and sharpening up bevels for better wedge action.

Chisels don't take well to filing, and are better handled with a gentle touch on a grinder (and kept cool), but prybars are super easy to "improve". And once you've started, you'll realize all your prybars and demolition bars need loving. Just don't take off so much that it loses it's structural strength. Or do, and reserve that tool for starting in the thin cracks that nothing else fits in (I've got a few of these), because you know that once you start levering with something too thin it WILL bend over the edge.

 

[neophyte]

Prybars aren't case hardened. They're not even all that hard. I've filed and ground dozens of them. In fact, I hardly have any that come from the factory with an edge to my liking. I'm always breaking down burrs, rounding sharp corners and sharpening up bevels for better wedge action.

Chisels don't take well to filing, and are better handled with a gentle touch on a grinder (and kept cool), but prybars are super easy to "improve". And once you've started, you'll realize all your prybars and demolition bars need loving. Just don't take off so much that it loses it's structural strength. Or do, and reserve that tool for starting in the thin cracks that nothing else fits in (I've got a few of these), because you know that once you start levering with something too thin it WILL bend over the edge.

You can get a chisel “working sharp” with a good file.
You should not expect to be able to completely reshape a chisel edge with a file, and “glass smooth” finish cuts might not be expected with file sharpening, but a sharp edge for removing material or cutting joint seems to be fully possible.
I did a quick test of chisel sharpening with a file on a Hirsch/Two Cherries chisel and a Sorby chisel a while back, using a single cut USA made Simonds file.
I don’t know whether this would work on newer harder steel chisels like the Lie Nielsen ones, or the Lee Valley PM-V11 chisels.

 

[Old tool guy]

Re-hardening and tempering is not that difficult, and practicing on a small prybar would be a good exercise.