aka Larry
Well-known member
Where did you get those fans for $99?
They were on sale for a a limited time at that price, but they are still available now at $119, which is still a good deal IMO.
Where did you get those fans for $99?






I really like that metal topper you have on your box with the counter sunk/flush screw heads.Today in the garage I spent a little time futzing around with my 1938ish Atlas 612 lathe...
It got new belts and I installed the motor and connected the power switch and I replaced all the wiring with oil resistant SOOW...
The frame and motor is now properly grounded...
I decided to just clean up the original paint, since it's in pretty good condition...
I need to add better lighting and a proper backsplash to control the oil that will be flinging off the chuck...
The original Atlas operating instructions call for copious oiling each time it's put to use...
![]()
It's just a piece of 1/4" thick hot rolled steel, cut to size to fit the dimensions of the 42" x 22" U.S. General Roll Cab...I really like that metal topper you have on your box with the counter sunk/flush screw heads.
Someone NAILED the carpet to the floor pans?!?!?!I spent the last few days removing the factory sound deadener from the floor of the Mustang. Back around 1984ish I paid an upholstery guy in Georgia to replace the carpet and he used a nail gun with small nails to hold the carpet down. There are a couple dozen nail holes I need to weld up and some of the old sound deadener had to be removed first. It was pretty cracked and not very thick anyway, so I decided to remove it all. I'll replace it with some new sound/thermal mat that is 0.200" thick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6JKF9SC/?tag=atomicindus08-20 My weapons of choice for removing the sound deadener are an oscillating tool with a scraper blade and a 5-in-1 paint scraper. I took out the plugs in each side of the back floor and swept all the scrapings into a 5 gallon bucket placed under the holes on each side as I worked.
I welded up a few dozen nail holes in the floor pan and ground them all down. Still have to clean up the bottom side. Every time I think I got them all, I find one or two more. Still have one spot left in the back to weld and grind.
![]()
Nailed it!!!Someone NAILED the carpet to the floor pans?!?!?!
SMH.
Every time you think you’ve seen or heard it all, some damned idiot is headed your way to prove you wrong.
The dumb is strong!Nailed it!!!The bad part was not knowing he did that until the first time I slid under it to fix something and saw all the nail points sticking out.
Strong in this one the dumb is!
Replaced the "grinder wheel" side on my "Central Machinery" 6" bench grinder from "Harbor Freight"!![]()
Why don't you come check!Are you sure?
Nailed it!!!The bad part was not knowing he did that until the first time I slid under it to fix something and saw all the nail points sticking out.
Nailed it!!!The bad part was not knowing he did that until the first time I slid under it to fix something and saw all the nail points sticking out.
Well, yeah, but where's the fun in that?You know, I know next to nothing about automotive upholstery--but isn't that supposed to be glued, not nailed down?
I spent the last few days removing the factory sound deadener from the floor of the Mustang. Back around 1984ish I paid an upholstery guy in Georgia to replace the carpet and he used a nail gun with small nails to hold the carpet down. There are a couple dozen nail holes I need to weld up and some of the old sound deadener had to be removed first. It was pretty cracked and not very thick anyway, so I decided to remove it all. I'll replace it with some new sound/thermal mat that is 0.200" thick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6JKF9SC/?tag=atomicindus08-20 My weapons of choice for removing the sound deadener are an oscillating tool with a scraper blade and a 5-in-1 paint scraper. I took out the plugs in each side of the back floor and swept all the scrapings into a 5 gallon bucket placed under the holes on each side as I worked.
Gave a quick google search on my mower, and it looks like a common problem. Usually gunk or varnish in the carb. Probably from this crappy overpriced gas we have. I'll tear into the carb this weekend and clean it up and hope for the best. New drive belt, air filter, spark plug, and fuel filter kit came UPS yesterday (before I knew I had other issues). This model doesn't have a fuel filter, but it might not hurt to splice one in.I spoke too soon. Tried to run my trusty pushmower today and it wouldn't run longer than 3 seconds. Cut the whole side yard just fine, was running low so I filled with brand new gas, and nothing. Finished the lawn with the ol man's tractor for now. Maybe I have something plugged somewhere or some gunk in the carb. I'll have to tear into it this weekend I guess.
Looks a lot like the ones I removed. Maybe he was a VW upholstery guy?A bit of a history lesson. VWs used tack or nails if so called for installing carpet on their products for years, a proper award winning restoration requires the use of these or similar for carpet installation.
VW part number is 111-863-149
Carpet nails
Enough for one carpet kit, order two sets for securing body to chassis seal.www.wolfsburgwest.com


It did the growing earlier this week when it was in the 70s-80s.Probably not growing much in that cold...
With 7014 rod and scrap steel my imagination goes into Overdrive.
Not very well.It's amazing how, once you have a welder, every project becomes a welding project. I have no idea how I lived without one.
