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What did you do "IN" your garage today?

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welder4956

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Messages
3,058
Location
Birmingham, AL USA
I spent the last few days removing the factory sound deadener from the floor of the Mustang. Back around 1984ish I paid an upholstery guy in Georgia to replace the carpet and he used a nail gun with small nails to hold the carpet down. There are a couple dozen nail holes I need to weld up and some of the old sound deadener had to be removed first. It was pretty cracked and not very thick anyway, so I decided to remove it all. I'll replace it with some new sound/thermal mat that is 0.200" thick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6JKF9SC/?tag=atomicindus08-20 My weapons of choice for removing the sound deadener are an oscillating tool with a scraper blade and a 5-in-1 paint scraper. I took out the plugs in each side of the back floor and swept all the scrapings into a 5 gallon bucket placed under the holes on each side as I worked.

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I welded up a few dozen nail holes in the floor pan and ground them all down. Still have to clean up the bottom side. Every time I think I got them all, I find one or two more. Still have one spot left in the back to weld and grind.

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Jakeweldsalittle

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2024
Messages
63
I spoke too soon. Tried to run my trusty pushmower today and it wouldn't run longer than 3 seconds. Cut the whole side yard just fine, was running low so I filled with brand new gas, and nothing. Finished the lawn with the ol man's tractor for now. Maybe I have something plugged somewhere or some gunk in the carb. I'll have to tear into it this weekend I guess.
 

C.L S2000

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2017
Messages
180
Location
LB, CA
Today in the garage I spent a little time futzing around with my 1938ish Atlas 612 lathe...
It got new belts and I installed the motor and connected the power switch and I replaced all the wiring with oil resistant SOOW...
The frame and motor is now properly grounded...
I decided to just clean up the original paint, since it's in pretty good condition...
I need to add better lighting and a proper backsplash to control the oil that will be flinging off the chuck...
The original Atlas operating instructions call for copious oiling each time it's put to use...
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I really like that metal topper you have on your box with the counter sunk/flush screw heads.
 

Snip's

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
1,847
Location
Ohio
I really like that metal topper you have on your box with the counter sunk/flush screw heads.
It's just a piece of 1/4" thick hot rolled steel, cut to size to fit the dimensions of the 42" x 22" U.S. General Roll Cab...
I didn't bother trying to remove the HR scale... I ran a bead of urethane caulking on the top of the cab, and dropped the plate in place...
That should keep the oils from dripping on the tools in the upper tool tray directly under the top...
The lubricant used on the machine should keep the HR top from rusting... With cleanup a quick wipe with a rag...
 

Skyman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2021
Messages
1,140
Location
Central Maryland
I spent the last few days removing the factory sound deadener from the floor of the Mustang. Back around 1984ish I paid an upholstery guy in Georgia to replace the carpet and he used a nail gun with small nails to hold the carpet down. There are a couple dozen nail holes I need to weld up and some of the old sound deadener had to be removed first. It was pretty cracked and not very thick anyway, so I decided to remove it all. I'll replace it with some new sound/thermal mat that is 0.200" thick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6JKF9SC/?tag=atomicindus08-20 My weapons of choice for removing the sound deadener are an oscillating tool with a scraper blade and a 5-in-1 paint scraper. I took out the plugs in each side of the back floor and swept all the scrapings into a 5 gallon bucket placed under the holes on each side as I worked.

1776965151983.png

1776965184410.png

1776965211114.png

1776965232706.png


I welded up a few dozen nail holes in the floor pan and ground them all down. Still have to clean up the bottom side. Every time I think I got them all, I find one or two more. Still have one spot left in the back to weld and grind.

1776965330316.png

1776965351333.png
Someone NAILED the carpet to the floor pans?!?!?!

SMH.

Every time you think you’ve seen or heard it all, some damned idiot is headed your way to prove you wrong.
 

Snip's

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
1,847
Location
Ohio
Did a 5K oil and filter change on my wife's 2017 Ford Explorer today...
I went with the 5W30 Valvoline Restore and Protect... Supposed to slowly remove carbon buildup...
Want to keep the Ford "Valvetronic or whatever it's called" clean and free of buildup...
It's supposed to keep carbon out of the ring lands and other places...
 

welder4956

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Messages
3,058
Location
Birmingham, AL USA
Someone NAILED the carpet to the floor pans?!?!?!

SMH.

Every time you think you’ve seen or heard it all, some damned idiot is headed your way to prove you wrong.
Nailed it!!! 🔨 The bad part was not knowing he did that until the first time I slid under it to fix something and saw all the nail points sticking out.
 
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bugnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jul 14, 2012
Messages
3,837
Location
Central Ohio
Not much time in the shop today. Worked on the electric start for the trike. Having to hand fabricate hot and group wires, no 8awg fittings, so a hardware trip required before I can complete. Did turn over by turning the key!
 

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bugnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jul 14, 2012
Messages
3,837
Location
Central Ohio
I spent the last few days removing the factory sound deadener from the floor of the Mustang. Back around 1984ish I paid an upholstery guy in Georgia to replace the carpet and he used a nail gun with small nails to hold the carpet down. There are a couple dozen nail holes I need to weld up and some of the old sound deadener had to be removed first. It was pretty cracked and not very thick anyway, so I decided to remove it all. I'll replace it with some new sound/thermal mat that is 0.200" thick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6JKF9SC/?tag=atomicindus08-20 My weapons of choice for removing the sound deadener are an oscillating tool with a scraper blade and a 5-in-1 paint scraper. I took out the plugs in each side of the back floor and swept all the scrapings into a 5 gallon bucket placed under the holes on each side as I worked.

A bit of a history lesson. VWs used tack or nails if so called for installing carpet on their products for years, a proper award winning restoration requires the use of these or similar for carpet installation.

VW part number is 111-863-149

 

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niget2002

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
11,115
Location
Josephine, TX
Started sanding the epoxy filled screw holes on the chair. Discovered one of the arms wasn't straight when I installed it and the screw was protruding from the wood. Not sure how I didn't notice during assembly, but I grabbed the angle cutter and cut the screw flush. There's enough glue and other screws holding it on, I'm not worried.
 

Jakeweldsalittle

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2024
Messages
63
I spoke too soon. Tried to run my trusty pushmower today and it wouldn't run longer than 3 seconds. Cut the whole side yard just fine, was running low so I filled with brand new gas, and nothing. Finished the lawn with the ol man's tractor for now. Maybe I have something plugged somewhere or some gunk in the carb. I'll have to tear into it this weekend I guess.
Gave a quick google search on my mower, and it looks like a common problem. Usually gunk or varnish in the carb. Probably from this crappy overpriced gas we have. I'll tear into the carb this weekend and clean it up and hope for the best. New drive belt, air filter, spark plug, and fuel filter kit came UPS yesterday (before I knew I had other issues). This model doesn't have a fuel filter, but it might not hurt to splice one in.
 

welder4956

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Messages
3,058
Location
Birmingham, AL USA
A bit of a history lesson. VWs used tack or nails if so called for installing carpet on their products for years, a proper award winning restoration requires the use of these or similar for carpet installation.

VW part number is 111-863-149

Looks a lot like the ones I removed. Maybe he was a VW upholstery guy?

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Hooked

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Messages
423
Location
League City, Texas
Changed oil/filter and fuel filter on our Exmark ZTR yesterday. Will be hitting the grease zerks today and completing the annual stuff so it hopefully doesn't quit while my bride is out mowing this year. ;)

Also spent an hour+ with contact cement repairing her Catholic Missal. You laugh but I get major bonus points for keeping this ancient book and case held together for her. Got extra credit for adding some leftover leather upholstery for a binding. She freely acknowledges she should get a new one but this is one broken in too well so............
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,634
Location
Far NE Oregon
Fixin' stuff in the kitchen this AM.

Last night, the staff let me know that the bun toaster cord was getting hot. I immediately ran up to check and the cord was minutes from melting through! The outlet appeared t be the problem--for one thing, its was a 15A outlet and the toaster draws 15A (no overhead). For another, the outlet was old and showed signs of overheating.

Replaced the outlet this AM. Cord now stays cool as a cucumber.

Installed a latch on the walk-in cooler door as the original, very old (vintage!) latch was failing from wear. New latch handle for a commercial walk-in cooler runs $300+ (excepting junk). There's another kind of latch, 'though, which will work fine as this cooler in entirely inside and doesn't need to lock. $100.

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Works great. I removed the striker from the old latch, but left the handle as it makes for a handy handle to pull the door open. Bonus is, you no longer have to hit the big button inside the cooler to open the door--difficult to do when carrying an armload of food--just push on the door.
 

nadogail

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
31,904
Location
Coronado, CA
Cut and trial fit some of my salvaged bed frames; I am making a flat bed four wheel cart to move my creations around.
The deck will be 36 inches long and 24 inches wide. I already had 2 Harbor Freight wheels with pneumatic tires, bought two swivel casters and some 1” ridged conduit for the handle, the axles for the fixed wheels will be 5/8” bolts welded into Angle Iron. The top has been cut from a sheet of plywood that was an assembly table from a previous project.
With 7014 rod and scrap steel my imagination goes into Overdrive.
 
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