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Old school copper plumbing - what is this stuff?

DGersic

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Last week was spent at my Jersey Shore cottage getting it ready for the summer. Some planned repairs, several unplanned repairs. One of which was plumbing.

I don’t do a lot of copper, but that’s what the cottage is plumbed with. It’s late 1940s stuff, but has been modified over the years. Here I’m in what I believe to be original 1948 stuff, where it joins a modified section. I don’t know who did this, why, or when, or what it looked like before they did it.

IMG_9193.jpeg

The water supply comes up out of the slab on the right, and has a shut off valve. That looks newer that 1948, so was probably replaced at some point. The 90* fitting is at a weird angle, about 20* to the wall. That seems wrong to me, makes everything else much more difficult. The T goes up to the kitchen sink. Then it needed to re-join the original house plumbing. Two street 45* fittings, one of which is swagged in to the old plumbing, which has been bent to make it fit. The old pipe continues left, along the wall, and eventually to a 90* running up the wall to the water heater.

Turning on the water (we drain it for the winter), I got a leak at that swagged joint with the street 45.

I tried to add some solder to the joint, but that made it worse. i didn’t expect that to work, but it seemed worth a try. It had to come apart.

Because the left side is anchored in to a wall, and the right side is anchored in to the slab, I could not separate the leaking joint. I had to cut the old pipe. I moved over to an area that would be easier to work on, behind the stove, and cut it there. That’s where the real fun starts.

Whatever this old copper pipe (tubing?) is, it’s not modern standard 1/2”. It’s just a bit larger. I didn’t have anything more accurate than a tape measure, but the tubing OD is about the same as the OD of a standard 1/2” fitting. Maybe 1/32” less.

Naturally, the box stores have nothing that fit here. A local hardware store that has everything, had nothing. They suggested a plumbing supply company. Plumbing supply had nothing, but an older than me plumber picking up supplies thought that it might be “bendable type L”. His only suggestion was to sand down the OD until it fit, jam it on, and solder it. Or maybe try an HVAC company.

There are T and 90 fittings on this stuff that are original to the house, so whatever this is, it used to be normal. Normal has changed. Since I couldn’t get a proper fitting, I had to get creative.

I found that Home Depot sell a Husky branded copper tubing expander, and the local store had two in stock.

IMG_9205.jpeg

I got it, and a handful of hubless 1/2” couplings. I annealed one, and stretched it to fit over the old pipe. It’s no longer truly hubless.

IMG_9197.jpeg

After cleaning up the old 45* joint as best I could with sandpaper, I added flux and resoldered that joint. More flux and solder, and my modified coupling was in place. No leaks. Probably will outlast me.

But I’m now really curious to identify this mystery pipe or tubing. What is it?
 
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Gutman

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ENC
Did you fix these spots?
That's a sharp eye!

OP: I'd be of the mind to start the conversion to PEX. I've done a lot of copper in the past, but the constraints and inflexibilty of existing (and old installs) seemed to always result in me chasing more leaks. I think you'll find it's a little more forgiving in freeze environments too.
 

nadogail

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Copper has become "Old School" IMHO, many who are under 40 have not gained a lot of experience with it. I prefer wirking it over "Iron Pipe" especially for comressed air systems.

50-50 solder, prohibited forpotable water work, and Acid Flux is easier to use than that Lead Free stuff presently sold for general plumbing.
 
OP
D

DGersic

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That's a sharp eye!

OP: I'd be of the mind to start the conversion to PEX. I've done a lot of copper in the past, but the constraints and inflexibilty of existing (and old installs) seemed to always result in me chasing more leaks. I think you'll find it's a little more forgiving in freeze environments too.

I‘m tempted to replace it all with PEX. But that requires planning, permits, and time I didn’t have. It’ll also be a lot of work, having to open up walls and fix the resulting damage.
 
OP
D

DGersic

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possibly froze and expanded
looks like soft copper with that curve, which would have a bit more give before it splits
measure the o.d. of the pipe in several places

I‘m now ~1000 miles from the pipe, can’t measure it. I’ll take a caliper with me next time I’m out there. By eyeball estimate with a tape measure, it’s about 23/32” OD.

It’s possible that there was freeze damage. Something caused that solder joint to fail. It wasn’t a great joint, but it had held for a long time. But that it was swagged, not just a normal slip joint with solder, hints that whoever made it also found that a slip joint fitting wouldn’t go on.
 
OP
D

DGersic

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I don’t mind getting permits and inspections, but they take time and scheduling. After having an electrical fire, cleaning up after that, and not having any plans or tools with me to do PEX, I needed working plumbing now.
 

Junkman

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I have never seen a copper water pipe swadged; however, I have seen soft copper tubing swadged, but that was in refrigeration, not water plumbing. When it comes to older cottages, you never know who or what was repaired, and the level of expertise of the person doing the repair. Possibly, it was an old refrigeration technician who worked on it last.
 
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Firebrick43

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So the whole pipe stretched evenly? Without bursting? I don’t normally have that kind of luck.
This pipe is several different diameters, any thing but even. And some times it takes several freeze thaw cycles to burst copper, especially tubing. Hard drawn "pipe" can split on the first freeze but I have even seen it look like a snake swallowed an egg at water ***** under a house and still not be leaking yet.
1777827243990.jpeg
 

Firebrick43

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I have never seen a copper water pipe swadged; however, I have seen soft copper tubing swadged, but that was in refrigeration, not water plumbing. When it comes to older cottages, you never know who or what was repaired, and the level of expertise of the person doing the repair. Possibly, it was an old refrigeration technician who worked on it last.
I use a ridgid expander all the time in hard pipe, and I have seen others as well. I do anneal it first but it saves a joint and a fitting.

IMG_1733.jpeg
 
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driftpin

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Call me a Luddite, I haven't bothered to 'learn' about PEX installation, nor do I have any of the tools for it. I do have an acetylene trench tank I bought from a NYS plumber who had moved to So. FL decades ago, he worked at a local hardware store I frequented. Because all my Cu plumbing work to that time had only been done w/a Bernz-o-Matic torch, capable of adequately heating the 1/2" or 3/4" Cu tubing I was working with in residential settings, discovering how quickly the acetylene torch would heat-up the tubing and fittings made a believer out of me. Once in awhile I would use compression fittings, but most of the time, I used solder, and tin/antimony spec.

I recently had a job to replace a residential water heater at our son's house, and I discovered that the paste flux for potable water systems which I had, had apparently exceeded its 'use-by' date. Even though I cleaned (sanding to shiny-brightness), de-burred, and solder-primed the Cu, I still had some points where the soldering wasn't working well, it leaked. Our son who is a whiz at researching things before attempting something new, suggested using a new can of flux suitable for use in a potable water system.

That worked! The several points that were porous at the solder seams, once disassembled and re-tinned with a new can of potable water flux, held. Our son also was able to demonstrate to me that though he was a novice, he was able to make strong water-tight solder connections on 1/2" and 3/4" Cu tubing. He didn't kid me too-much about my old flux cans, which were disposed-of. The new flux works much better.
 

jkuro

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It appears to be 1/2" pipe except for the aera in question. Buy a short piece of 1/2" copper pipe and some fittings. Cut out the old soldier in the new.
 

mike93lx

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It appears to be 1/2" pipe except for the aera in question. Buy a short piece of 1/2" copper pipe and some fittings. Cut out the old soldier in the new.
I agree, I'd cut out the goofy old stuff and just go back with new, but I'd press the new stuff
 

The Cobbler

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there's an obvious diameter change here .
someone swaged the pipe to fit that street 45° to the right of my picture . It's made in Korea so it's not that old, or someone imported Korean parts and it's their sizes . and it's a **** solder job.
1777850552756.png
 

Sumboodie

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Copper has become "Old School" IMHO, many who are under 40 have not gained a lot of experience with it. I prefer wirking it over "Iron Pipe" especially for comressed air systems.

50-50 solder, prohibited forpotable water work, and Acid Flux is easier to use than that Lead Free stuff presently sold for general plumbing.
Still used all over for heating, plumbing stub outs if you're not a cave man (like the toilet conntion, sinks, etc)
 

T444e

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I would just cut it out starting upstream of the valve to good tube and put it back with sweat copper. That doesn't look like to bad of a repair and everything can be fit up prior to sweating.

I've also seen pulled tees and bent copper tube. I have ordered annealed straight copper tube for bending.
 

PoorUB

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I‘m now ~1000 miles from the pipe, can’t measure it. I’ll take a caliper with me next time I’m out there. By eyeball estimate with a tape measure, it’s about 23/32” OD.

It’s possible that there was freeze damage. Something caused that solder joint to fail. It wasn’t a great joint, but it had held for a long time. But that it was swagged, not just a normal slip joint with solder, hints that whoever made it also found that a slip joint fitting wouldn’t go on.
I am a little late to the party, but it is freeze damage. I have seen it many times. And yes, it will expand the pipe fairly evenly.
 
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DGersic

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Do they require permits for a just a repair?

That'd be a double ugghhh for me.

My electrical fire repair required a city permit, with inspection, and a local association permit. I assume re-plumbing the house will require similar.
 
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DGersic

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there's an obvious diameter change here .
someone swaged the pipe to fit that street 45° to the right of my picture . It's made in Korea so it's not that old, or someone imported Korean parts and it's their sizes . and it's a **** solder job.
1777850552756.png

Yes, that end has an obvious swage and diameter change. Possibly that’s also showing freeze expansion.

It’s the other end I’m asking about.

IMG_9197.jpeg

The cut and couple at the blue circle. The pipe over here does not seem to be damaged, just slightly bigger OD than any available fittings. The plumber that looked at it didn’t think it looked freeze damaged, he just thought it looked like 1/2” pipe until he tried to put a fitting on it.
 
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DGersic

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I would just cut it out starting upstream of the valve to good tube and put it back with sweat copper. That doesn't look like to bad of a repair and everything can be fit up prior to sweating.

I've also seen pulled tees and bent copper tube. I have ordered annealed straight copper tube for bending.

I started down that path, until I couldn’t put a coupler on the old pipe. Then I decided that discretion was the better part of something or another and went for the easier fix. Even if it’s a hack, it’s a serviceable hack.
 
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