Craftsman 100 Drill Press Column Rusted In Place

[Ferrstein]

Hello all - This may end up resulting in defeat, but I thought I'd ask here - any thoughts on removing a drill press column that seems to have fused to the base plate? I picked up this 1953 Craftsman 100 specifically because I wanted the taller 67" column. As it turns out, it had spent some time in a damp corner of the garage on a dirt floor - the base is quite rusted. The column won't budge. Good news is I only paid $50 for it, and the motor and tilt table are both in great shape. The rest of it is in decent shape as well.

After a bit of scraping, wire brushing, and cleaning it no longer looks anywhere near as bad as it does in the below pic, but that column seems like it may be attached to that base for life. I'm currently soaking the area with Kroil and tapped it a few times. We'll see what happens. Any other thoughts? Heat? twist? I'm thinking now that I may just clean up and paint the base with the column in place and use it like that. Only the bottom 1/2" of the pipe had any real cross section loss, and it still is quite sturdy. The base cleaned up better than I thought. Basically I have no concerns about this area failing.

Anyway - thoughts on how I should proceed are greatly appreciated!

 

[WillyBoy]

I've seen some solutions that involved clamping the tube and using a hydraulic jack between the clamp and the base.

When it's stuck and corroded that badly, I'd be inclined to try making some cuts inside the tube at the base to make the it easier to peel the pieces inward with a cold chisel. It's probably too small for a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder. Maybe a sawzall. You may have to accept shortening the tube and inch or two.

 

[Ferrstein]

I've seen some solutions that involved clamping the tube and using a hydraulic jack between the clamp and the base.

That's a great thought. I have a bottle jack and also a porta-power I could try. I think I'll try separating it via non-destructive means for now. Failing that I will probably just leave these two attached together as a "matched set."

 

[WillyBoy]

The challenge will be to clamp it tight enough so the clamp won't slide while jacking. Also, it's tough to keep the tube from cocking when jacking on one side.

 

[FrankLee]

Usually bases and columns rusted that badly require some kind of mechanical device to separate them.

I've had plenty in that condition. One of better solutions I came up with was to use a threaded rod and a short collar to force the base UP the column. I used a Proto puller, but nuts and washers will suffice.

Here's a link to a document that includes all techniques I've used.

Bases and Columns.pdf

drive.google.com

Craftsman Drill Press

Powr-Kraft Motor 84 DP 4551 - cont'd Because of how this motor was assembled, the switch-side end cap was much more difficult. I could not push the rotor through the bearing on the switch side, so I had to loosen the end cap to see what was going on. This is very different than anything...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[Ferrstein]

Usually bases and columns rusted that badly require some kind of mechanical device to separate them.

I've had plenty in that condition. One of better solutions I came up with was to use a threaded rod and a short collar to force the base UP the column. I used a Proto puller, but nuts and washers will suffice.

Here's a link to a document that includes all techniques I've used.

Bases and Columns.pdf

drive.google.com

Thanks Frank - That's a great document! I love the "In order of increasing aggressiveness" layout.

I'm pretty sure I need to go straight to technique #4 for this particular unit. I like how the draw rod keeps the forces even. Also moving this way should expose the most rusty part of the column much faster to allow easier removal. Hoping I don't need to have a "drill press barbeque" but I will if I need to!

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks Frank - That's a great document! I love the "In order of increasing aggressiveness" layout.

I'm pretty sure I need to go straight to technique #4 for this particular unit. I like how the draw rod keeps the forces even. Also moving this way should expose the most rusty part of the column much faster to allow easier removal. Hoping I don't need to have a "drill press barbeque" but I will if I need to!

I think it would be beneficial to drill a small hole in the underside of the base in order to inject a penetrant into the lower column cavity as decribed in #2.

 

[Ferrstein]

I think it would be beneficial to drill a small hole in the underside of the base in order to inject a penetrant into the lower column cavity as decribed in #2.

Good point. I have the area soaking in Kroil now, but I'm fairly certain nothing can make it down to that cavity. I'll get that done before I head out for vacation so it has plenty of time to soak. I'll soak for a few days upright and then invert it and soak it some more.

 

[The Cobbler]

I'm thinking now that I may just clean up and paint the base with the column in place and use it like that.

that sounds like the line of least resistance and the less chance of doing damage to the base .
if I was going to tackle removing the post I'd probably cut it off and then cut inside the tube with a sawzall or something to relieve the stress from rust jacking . then work it out with hammer & punches etc

 

[Old tool guy]

Hacksaw, and a resulting 65” column.

 

[DaveAndStuff]

I would cut it off almost flush and sawzall through the tube wall in a couple places

Or bore it out if I had a mill or lathe

 

[DaveAndStuff]

Why does it have to come out?

 

[Ferrstein]

that sounds like the line of least resistance and the less chance of doing damage to the base .
if I was going to tackle removing the post I'd probably cut it off and then cut inside the tube with a sawzall or something to relieve the stress from rust jacking . then work it out with hammer & punches etc

I have a nice 62" column and base here. For that reason I will stop short of cutting anything. If it comes to that I'll just leave them together, clean up the column, and give the base a new coat of paint.

 

[Ferrstein]

Why does it have to come out?

It doesn't. I just wanted to get it cleaned up and repainted. I can do that with them assembled if I have to.

 

[Ferrstein]

Hacksaw, and a resulting 65” column.

There's quite a bit of vertical engagement in that column. I think I'd be closer to 62", and I already have a 62" post here. Rather than do any destructive removal I would just leave these two pieces together and clean them up.

 

[Whitworth]

It's too tall for most hydraulic presses.

You could try heating the casting, in one spot until dull red, but you NEED oxy acetylene for that.

Or, best, just clean it up and leave it on.

 

[Old tool guy]

There's quite a bit of vertical engagement in that column. I think I'd be closer to 62", and I already have a 62" post here. Rather than do any destructive removal I would just leave these two pieces together and clean them up.

The way you worded the OP seemed to indicate you had a shorter column and wanted a taller one. I didn't realize you were only gaining 5 inches.

 

[Ferrstein]

The way you worded the OP seemed to indicate you had a shorter column and wanted a taller one. I didn't realize you were only gaining 5 inches.

Yeah. These were made in 62" and 67". I'm fairly tall, so that height difference means a lot to my neck. If I had any fab / weld skills I would just extend one of my existing columns.

 

[Old tool guy]

Or build a riser for the base to sit on. Couple of layers of 2x12 in alternating directions, a little wider than the steel base.

 

[Ferrstein]

Or build a riser for the base to sit on. Couple of layers of 2x12 in alternating directions, a little wider than the steel base.

That's a good idea. Will keep it off the floor to prevent any further rust as well.

 

[BSWS]

I can vouch for Frank's #2 technique. I had soaked mine for about a week, then applied heat to the base, on both the top and bottom sides and that column wasn't going anywhere. A few days later I saw Frank's technique and modified it slightly. I used a BFH, or a smallish sledgehammer, along with a foot long solid steel cylinder, about 1 1/2" diameter instead of a 2 x 4. I lined up the steel carefully with the edge of the column and whacked it. I think it took 2 good whacks and it broke loose. Didn't do any damage to the column or the base.

PS I did use eye protection for the steel on steel assault.

 

[jmarkwolf]

I would cut it off almost flush and sawzall through the tube wall in a couple places

Or bore it out if I had a mill or lathe

My approach also.

Mrpete222 has a multipart video currently about installing a linear transducer as a table lift on an old drill press. The column was rusted into the base badly. It took some real effort for him to hammer the base off the column.