First time building

[sw40dude]

Starting to put together the plans for my detached garage. Going to be stick built on a 22x24 slab. I really have 2 questions. I am very new to this.

1. Is an 18’ Door too large for what I am building? The door is on the 22’ side. The hope is to be able to park a 1/2 ton pickup and a third row suv in there. There’s a little over 2 feet on each side of the door.

2. For my roof, which will be 4/12, obviously there isn’t any lumber long enough to span the 22’ for ceiling joists. Should I build rafters and tie them higher than the top plate? Or should I look into ordering trusses? I would like to be able to store some things like scrap lumber and such in the ceiling.

I’m really looking to do this a cheap as I can so any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[reader2580]

4/12 trusses are pretty inexpensive. I would not try to build the roof with rafters. If you live where there are Menards stores they have stock trusses that are fairly inexpensive.

 

[JuncleJohn]

Years ago I (with my Dad) built a 20x24 without trusses using 2x6’s for the rafters and cross ties. This was also on a slab. That was 50 years ago and it’s still standing today. Studs and rafters were all on 24” centers. It had a 16x7 door on the 20’ wide gable end. So, yes an 18’ wide door will not be a problem.

If you have the room, I would go at least 24x24 as full size trucks take up a lot of room.

John

 

[Junkman]

You don't say where you live, so it is difficult to advise on the roof pitch without knowing whether there is a snow load. I personally don't like extremely wide garage doors because they are quite heavy when in the horizontal position. I would use 10' or 12' doors and make sure you have a high enough ceiling to accommodate any future vehicles.

 

[loganb]

2 ft on each side will make it tight to open doors if the vehicles are pulled in tight to the garage door jamb. Go find a parking lot and bring a tape measure and some tape and lay it out on the lot and see what you think.

From a construction side, the sides of garage door walls often have to be built with what's called a portal frame to meet the shear strength requirements since there isn't much wall area. Don't recall of the top of my head what the minimum width to make that work is but 2' seems narrow

 

[JuncleJohn]

I have two wide doors. My attached garage has an 18x8 and an 18x12 on my detached shop out back. Over 20 years and both work as they should.

The new steel doors vs the old wooden ones are way better. They don’t seem to sag or get heavy with high humidity.

John

 

[Torque&Recoil]

All I can say is, figure out how big you can afford, and then make it bigger. 22 x 24 seems marginal. My current garage (I do have a barn for workshop) is 22x22 and it's too GD small. My full size P/U leaves about 6" on the front, and 6" on the rear. Wife has to get out before I pull into the garage, because car door won't open far enough for a passenger to get out. I would really like to meet up with the cheapskate who built it and beat him senseless... it is just a never ending hassle.

I am also joining the vote for trusses. Cheap, fast, effective.

 

[carlaisle]

My advice is to enlarge your footprint. I would like to be able to open the doors without hitting anything and that width won't cut it unless you're only using it for a single vehicle. I would never build a garage less than 30' x 30' for the exact reason Torque&Recall mentions, but you should know your needs and wants best.

 

[MushCreek]

My wife's '90's Olds 88 was 12' wide with both doors open. Her 15'6" wide one car garage is barely enough. 24' wide would be too tight for two full-sized vehicles. Don't forget; a 24' wide (outside) garage is only a little over 23' inside. As loganb said- go to a parking lot and try it out.

 

[Skiff Builder]

Many real lumberyards have 2x6 up to 24'. Even most big box stores can order it for you.
22x24 4:12 Gable Roof w/ 16" eave o.h./ 12" gable o.h.
(2) 2x10x14'-Ridge
(38) 2x8x14- Rafters- 16"O.C.
(9) 2x6x22'- Wall Ties alternate every other rafter.
(22) Sheet Sheathing for roof
Add sub fascia/trim boards for eves and gables


I have used garages that dimension with Yukon XL and Linc Navigator L. Pax and parcels unload outside the building, vehicle is parked in an orientation that puts the drivers door towards building center and as close to outside wall as possible. Got to work it like a city driver and not expect to do anything in the space when both vehicles are present.

 

[CraigStu]

...From a construction side, the sides of garage door walls often have to be built with what's called a portal frame to meet the shear strength requirements since there isn't much wall area. Don't recall of the top of my head what the minimum width to make that work is but 2' seems narrow

This will be your main issue from the permitting people. There may be ways to make it work (portal or?) but I'd be checking w/ your county before going any further. They could tell you to go to a 16ft door.

 

[JuncleJohn]

Sheet the entire front, especially around the garage door opening with OSB. The upper corners would be cut L shaped to surround the opening. That will act as a wind brace. On a lot of new homes, they sheet the outside corners with OSB for the same reason.

John

 

[manwithtools]

Sheet the entire front, especially around the garage door opening with OSB. The upper corners would be cut L shaped to surround the opening. That will act as a wind brace.

There is a lot more to a portal wall than this...

Foundation, anchoring, nailing schedule, framing member requirements, proper header materials and sizes, etc.

OP, don't even think about building your own rafters and ceiling joists. Trusses are quicker, stronger and likely cheaper depending on your location.

 

[Rst277]

Starting to put together the plans for my detached garage. Going to be stick built on a 22x24 slab. I really have 2 questions. I am very new to this.

1. Is an 18’ Door too large for what I am building? The door is on the 22’ side. The hope is to be able to park a 1/2 ton pickup and a third row suv in there. There’s a little over 2 feet on each side of the door.

2. For my roof, which will be 4/12, obviously there isn’t any lumber long enough to span the 22’ for ceiling joists. Should I build rafters and tie them higher than the top plate? Or should I look into ordering trusses? I would like to be able to store some things like scrap lumber and such in the ceiling.

I’m really looking to do this a cheap as I can so any help is greatly appreciated.

As others have said 22' wide is too small. Do you want to put anything in this garage or is it just a car hole? At 22' and 2 big vehicles you'll hardly be able to walk around in there.

 

[sw40dude]

As others have said 22' wide is too small. Do you want to put anything in this garage or is it just a car hole? At 22' and 2 big vehicles you'll hardly be able to walk around in there.

The plan would be to have my tool boxes in the back and some shelves. This is the largest I can go with the space so maybe a 16’ door and plan on just keeping the wife’s car in there is the best bet

 

[billconner]

I built mine a few years ago - 28 x 32 - and am fine with a post center and beam. It made joists for an attic and functional rafter ties easy. And the attic floor made rafters easy. Rough dawn lumber from Amish made it inexpensive. Half solo, half my son helping.

 

[sw40dude]

Thank you everyone for the responses. So it seems like my best bet, since this is the largest I can go, is going to be a 16’ door and then find a local lumber yard to order trusses from since I don’t have a Menards anywhere near me.

 

[moab11]

I have a 22x28 garage, and with a workbench on one side and a bit of narrow storage on the other, it's really just a one car garage.
Sounds like you have gotten a lot of good advice, and since you want to have some storage in there, best is to plan on only fitting one vehicle inside.

 

[Superbowl]

A few thoughts.

1. As others have said, bigger is better.
2. Think about attic storage. Higher pitch means more room. Standard trusses block useful space. Check on scissors trusses or use mainly regular trusses but stick frame some so you have a flat floor area for storage. "I" joists can span farther than dimensional lumber.
3. Think about a garage door higher that the standard 7 ft.
4. Floor drain so you can wash a car inside in the winter. Just run out to the grass. Sink drain, mine runs to a large hole outside full of gravel as no way to get to the house drain pipes by gravity. May need to hide from an inspector.
5. Future lift? Make the slab thick enough.
6. A man door let's you get in and out without letting the heat out.

 

[strength_and_power]

Welcome to the Journal.

 

[CraigStu]

BTW when checking on trusses you might ask about longer ones. It is really nice to have a couple feet of overhang at the doors and the upcharge will be reasonable.

 

[CraigStu]

Also to get 2 cars in and still easily open the driver door have your wife pull into the right as close to wall as she is comfortable. You back into the left. If both go in at an angle you have enough space between the cars that opening the driver door on each is easy.

 

[Uncle murph]

2 ft on each side will make it tight to open doors if the vehicles are pulled in tight to the garage door jamb. Go find a parking lot and bring a tape measure and some tape and lay it out on the lot and see what you think.

From a construction side, the sides of garage door walls often have to be built with what's called a portal frame to meet the shear strength requirements since there isn't much wall area. Don't recall of the top of my head what the minimum width to make that work is but 2' seems narrow

This.I’ve had to install steel shear panels on similar buildings to meet code.It’s that once in twenty years wind storm that you need to worry about.

 

[logical]

If the slab is 22 wide, you will have significantly less than 2 feet each side (beyond the door) on the inside...walls have thickness. Then again, you also don't park at the very extreme edge of the garage door.

I've lived with two big vehicles in a space that small and with even a little caution there's no reason it can't be done without banging doors into walls or the other vehicle, but doing any work beyond cleaning the windows is out and if there are children in the mix it will eventually lead to wall or car damage. My F150 has power fold mirrors and I park on the right as far over as I can. My wife added stripes to my summer car that I sometimes park in that RH spot walking between vehicles with her purse regularly...but it was just transfer, not scratches.