Laser guided miter saw thoughts

[afinepoint]

I've done a few search here without seeing this discussed recently. Or at all.

Is the addition of the laser or other optical guide useful or more a gimmick?

My 12" years old Dewalt DW705 non sliding is still doing well. Just bought a new blade.

Was looking at sliding compound saws with laser or other opitical guides like the Metabo C12RSH3M.

Seems Dewalt no longer makes the laser kit for their saws. My Dewalt will do fine but if it's a major step up to go laser (+ sliding) I'm all in.

I'm setting the ceiling at $700 since i really don't need the saw. No, I really don't.

Thanks.

 

[mike93lx]

I have a c12rsh2. The laser is kind of helpful, when you can even see it. But I just lower the blade to the work, align it and then cut.

The best system I have used is dewalts shadow setup. It had a light on each side of the blade and casts a nice, clear shadow line for the specific blade you are using.

 

[gahrajmahal]

I've done a few search here without seeing this discussed recently. Or at all.

Is the addition of the laser or other optical guide useful or more a gimmick?

My 12" years old Dewalt DW705 non sliding is still doing well. Just bought a new blade.

Was looking at sliding compound saws with laser or other opitical guides like the Metabo C12RSH3M.

Seems Dewalt no longer makes the laser kit for their saws. My Dewalt will do fine but if it's a major step up to go laser (+ sliding) I'm all in.

I'm setting the ceiling at $700 since i really don't need the saw. No, I really don't.

Thanks.

I also have a 12” Dewalt chop saw. I don’t like sliding ones as they are bigger and heavier. A laser would be a desired improvement for mine along with soft start if it was available to take the “jump” out of starting the blade. It would make it quieter too.

 

[jar944]

I far prefer the dewalt shadow to a laser.

 

[afinepoint]

I also have a 12” Dewalt chop saw. I don’t like sliding ones as they are bigger and heavier. A laser would be a desired improvement for mine along with soft start if it was available to take the “jump” out of starting the blade. It would make it quieter too.

I'd pay more for a soft start. It's a nice and sometimes necessary feature. I have an older Sears radial arm saw that I had to put on a separate circuit. Saw + refrigerator start = tripped breaker, saw + small dedicated vacuum = tripped breaker.

The sliding ones are heavier but their cutting capability is desirable. I would get one with the rails up front to reduce the bulkiness.

 

[tarbellb]

Laser is trash

Shadow is superior and not that hard to retro fit to any saw

Simply add a LED light behind the blade

(I retro fitted my Makita laser power supply and switch to activate a LED)

 

[gtae07]

I have a 12 year old sliding Ryobi; the laser is a gimmick. It'll get you in the ballpark but that's it.

Soft start would be really nice, but I don't use it often enough to justify a new one. It was a "buy it for the project" purchase when I built my shop at the old house.

 

[gahrajmahal]

Laser is trash

Shadow is superior and not that hard to retro fit to any saw

Simply add a LED light behind the blade

(I retro fitted my Makita laser power supply and switch to activate a LED)

Photos please

 

[flippin]

Did this to mine, works perfect!! Wished there was a battery led solution. I improvised and used alien tape to stick the junction box to the saw. The link below is the YouTube video which provided the instructions.

Bosch Glide Shadowline

 

[afinepoint]

I far prefer the dewalt shadow to a laser.

Can it be seen in bright sunlight?

 

[jar944]

Can it be seen in bright sunlight?

Ive not noticed an issue, but to be fair I'm cutting inside 99% of the time.

 

[dscheidt]

Can it be seen in bright sunlight?

Yes. very rarely, you need to cast a shadow on the saw, but you can usually do that with your body.

 

[dnschmidt]

Shadow line is the answer and normally, depending upon the position of the sun, can be seen very well in the sun which is a statement that cannot be said for the laser.

 

[Aaron_W]

I've got a 13 year old Rigid miter saw with a laser. One thing to be aware of, at least on my saw, the laser is not properly lined up until you start to bring the blade down, so it really doesn't save that much time over just lining up the cut with the blade. It is more of a last chance to catch an error in alignment.

I like having the feature, but I use the saw about the same way that I would a saw without it. It probably has saved me from making a few bad cuts over the years.

 

[whateg01]

I've got a 13 year old Rigid miter saw with a laser. One thing to be aware of, at least on my saw, the laser is not properly lined up until you start to bring the blade down, so it really doesn't save that much time over just lining up the cut with the blade. It is more of a last chance to catch an error in alignment.

I like having the feature, but I use the saw about the same way that I would a saw without it. It probably has saved me from making a few bad cuts over the years.

True, sort of. If I don't put my mark in the right spot, the blade isn't contacting the work where my mark is. So I have to get the speed square out to draw a line so the way across the work to line the blade up. A laser is helpful then, even if I have to bring the blade down to use it.

 

[308guru]

I'd pay more for a soft start. It's a nice and sometimes necessary feature.

Nobody in construction (the majority of the buyers) wants to spend time waiting for a saw to start slowly. They want it up to speed and making the cut as fast as possible so they can move quickly. They can then spend the time saved drinking coffee and bs-ing with other trades on the job.

 

[tarbellb]

Photos please

I have the dual throw Makita 1016 slider that came with a factory laser (circa 2012?) Saw has been good overall, but lets be honest, a laser is only good for rough framing and bs work. If you do trim or fine woodworking this is a "must have" in my opinion, has saved me thousands of checking for blade to mark strokes

The shadow on my saw is so accurate you can see the carbide teeth on the blade

The basic idea is to mount a LED inside the guard, closer to the front.

My laser had a 120v supply mounted in the handle, I pulled all the unused laser wiring and laser and replaced with epoxied LED in hood, driver in handle, all ran by the factory switch.

Looks even easier now with LED + driver all on one chip- LED + driver link



My set up from 12+ yrs ago







Also lights up your work area very nicely



Shadow Line for the metal band too!

 

[The Cobbler]

I'm from the era when I was glad to have a powered miter saw. I have used saws with lasers but I prefer the old way . line the blade up & cut it.

 

[Rusted Nut]

Retired carpenter here, I’ve used a number of laser miter saws over the years, didn’t like any of them. Much quicker and more accurate to line a stationary saw blade up on the workpiece.

 

[afinepoint]

DWS780.

Using a dial indicator the runout measuring along the blade is .001 to .006". The saw itself is dead on at 45s and 90°. I found this Impressive for factory settings.

The torque kick on starting is something I've grown accustomed to from my other 12" Dewalt.

This is a large machine and is not likely going to fit a standard work bench. My other Dewalt miter is mounted on a mobile stand which stays collapsed and out of the way when not in use. I wheel it where needed so there had never been workshop space issues nor will there be here.

Those were among the biggest complaints about this saw and are non issues with me.

The blade changing remains the same PITA but honestly how often are blades changed? I do it every few years when one wears out.

The material clamp is flimsy but I've never needed more used one.

Raining today. Supposedly sunny tomorrow so I can check the visibility of the cut line in (bright) daylight. That is the deal breaker.

 

[gahrajmahal]

Afinepoint, that saw is the monster they had at the high schools where I used to teach adult education carpentry class. I had 50/50 women and men, and the action of a sliding miter saw was difficult for the students to master. I would lock out the slider action so it was a chop saw that helped some. But the trigger effort and pulling down into the work was not easy for beginners. It will cut large sizes though!

 

[afinepoint]

It dominates that workbench hanging 27" beyond the edges at > 51" angle lever to bag tip.

 

[tarbellb]

If you are seriously considering a new saw my favorite design for a compact footprint are the overhead rail saws
Kapex, Hitachi, and Makita all make a version

 

[dwasifar]

I added a laser to my Delta sliding miter, in the form of a little puck shaped device that replaces the outer blade clamp washer and shines laser light out its edge down to the workpiece. Turns on and off by centrifugal force. Works great. The saw cuts precisely on the line. Wouldn't be without it.

 

[afinepoint]

I added a laser to my Delta sliding miter, in the form of a little puck shaped device that replaces the outer blade clamp washer and shines laser light out its edge down to the workpiece. Turns on and off by centrifugal force. Works great. The saw cuts precisely on the line. Wouldn't be without it.

Hmm. I have read about these and still have the older saw. What's the lasers brand and model?

Seems opinions are mixed regarding laser saws and retrofitting.

 

[dwasifar]

Hmm. I have read about these and still have the older saw. What's the lasers brand and model?

Seems opinions are mixed regarding laser saws and retrofitting.

It's this.

The only problem I had with installing it is that it's flat instead of cupped like the original clamp washer, so if your saw uses an arbor adapter, it can't be any thicker than the blade; otherwise the laser clamps the adapter and doesn't hold the blade. So I had to get a thinner arbor adapter. Other than that, it's been fine. Been using it for eight years.

 

[afinepoint]

One of the reviews was for a Dewalt DW705. That is my saw.. The issue he/she had was rubbing against the blade guard which was solved by increasing the clearance via additional washers to the guard mounting bolts.
The device sounds like a good idea.

My concerns would be:

1. Visibility in bright daylight.
2. Only the left cut line is marked vice both.
3. The saw must be running to work.

Thank you for the information.

 

[whateg01]

2. Only the left cut line is marked vice both.

I've never seen a saw with a laser on the left and another laser on the right

 

[afinepoint]

Yeah. May not exist. The sliding Dewalt I bought shows both sides by way of casting the blades shadow. DNO.

 

[jar944]

I've never seen a saw with a laser on the left and another laser on the right

The festool kapex has 2 lasers to do just that.

 

[whateg01]

The festool kapex has 2 lasers to do just that.

Well there's the solution for op! Like I said I've never seen one.

 

[mike93lx]

My concerns would be:

1. Visibility in bright daylight.
2. Only the left cut line is marked vice both.
3. The saw must be running to work

One and two are common limitations.

A laser that only comes on when the blade is spinning is useless to me. Just align the blade with the line before turning it on. Adjusting stock position with a running blade, especially for an amateur is a recipe for a problem

 

[DaveAndStuff]

I have (below) a cheap (~$275) 10" double-miter saw. It has a laser that works well for most of what I do. It is not real precise, but it's okay.

The saw is actually pretty great for the money, and it came with a decent blade. It will cut a 90 up to 12" X 3 1/2". and while I've never cut 3 1/2" material, I have cut 3", and I have cut plenty of 1 1/2" X 12",

The bad: the slide extends out the back of the saw, making it a PITA to put on a stand along the wall, You have move it out every time you use it. The dust collector is largely useless, and while the saw and table seem pretty robust, the material supports and stops are junk.

I think I like the way the Makita slide above is configured much better.

 

[Buckaroo5]

Several years ago I bought the DWS779. At that point, the only difference between the DWS779 and DWS780 was the shadow cut line and it was much cheaper to buy the OEM kit and install it rather than springing for the 780. At the time, I think I only paid $80 with shipping for the kit from MM Tool Parts.....seems to be $170 now.

 

[AEAdam]

I think the chop saw lasers are a gimick. And a laser seems like a really precise tiny beam, but in reality, the beam is way too thick for decent work. Even my laser level is really not good enough for a lot of jobs.

 

[DaveAndStuff]

I think the chop saw lasers are a gimick. And a laser seems like a really precise tiny beam, but in reality, the beam is way too thick for decent work. Even my laser level is really not good enough for a lot of jobs.

Mine is a pretty cheap unit and it seems to me, that for 95% of what I do with it, the laser is fine, and pretty convenient. I watched a video on dialing in the Makita 12", and I think I would trust that for 100%.

I don't know that I use the saw enough to pay extra for the laser, but if I used in a lot I would.

If the saw gets moved a lot, keeping it dialed in perfect might be a pain.

 

[dwasifar]

My concerns would be:

1. Visibility in bright daylight.
2. Only the left cut line is marked vice both.
3. The saw must be running to work.

Thank you for the information.

One and two are common limitations.

A laser that only comes on when the blade is spinning is useless to me. Just align the blade with the line before turning it on. Adjusting stock position with a running blade, especially for an amateur is a recipe for a problem

Well. My saw is a permanent part of the miter saw station in my workshop, so it doesn't get a lot of sunlight. Yes, only the left is marked, but that hasn't been too big a limitation, as the longer side of the saw station is the left. I haven't had an issue with adjusting position. You just need to burp the motor a bit to get the laser going, and you don't have to lower the saw all the way to the workpiece.

I'm only saying it's been useful for me. I haven't found it to be a gimmick.