Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT Kwik Fab's Small Shop

[KwikFab]

Love your Thread !
Looking forward to seeing what you do with your New Press


I Dont understand all that Gibberish ! XYZ axis stuff
I need to press one for English

lol

Some Things are above a Carpenters pay grade !


Keep it Going

D

I barely understand myself, don't worry

 

[Old Man Roger]

let’s say you just have one piece to bend. Can you still just walk up with a piece of metal with a line drawn on it, stick it in there and step on the pedal?

I get the whole cnc thing for repeatability and producing a bunch of parts, but it would kinda be a pain in the *** to have to program it for one bend.

 

[KwikFab]

let’s say you just have one piece to bend. Can you still just walk up with a piece of metal with a line drawn on it, stick it in there and step on the pedal?

I get the whole cnc thing for repeatability and producing a bunch of parts, but it would kinda be a pain in the *** to have to program it for one bend.

Absolutely!

There's a manual mode just for that, but now that you mentioned it, I did do "test" or one off bends if you can call them that.

I simply chose the pre-existing bend I already made prior since it was in the thickness I needed (3/16") and angle (90). And the backgauge isn't something always used, it only comes into play if you specifically add it to your program although it does also allow manual jogging of the backgauge if you want to just set it there for awhile.

Having owned different brakes, and made hundreds and hundreds of bends, I'll easily take the few extra seconds of programming since it'll ensure a proper bend. Doing it with my air over hydraulic setup, I'd have to correctly remember the sound in order to stop.

Kind of like popping popcorn in the microwave that doesn't have the popcorn preset - a little too early and you get lots of kernels, and too late and your **** gets burnt.

 

[Chris F]

Tip for future use, when mounting heavy/awkward assemblies cut the head off of a bolt with the same thread pitch as the tapped hole or use all-thread, mount the part using the "stud" as a third hand while you start bolts in the remaining holes. Noticed when you mounted the backstop there were no plastic plugs on the linear rail to cover the socket heads, maybe done off camera?

 

[KwikFab]

Tip for future use, when mounting heavy/awkward assemblies cut the head off of a bolt with the same thread pitch as the tapped hole or use all-thread, mount the part using the "stud" as a third hand while you start bolts in the remaining holes. Noticed when you mounted the backstop there were no plastic plugs on the linear rail to cover the socket heads, maybe done off camera?

That's a freaking great idea.

My thought was to use an extra long bolt just to catch the threads and hold it temporarily but yours is one to remember next time.

But no I had no extra hardware matching the threads at all on hand so I did the whole "be a man" and did it myself by holding it up in place

As for the bolt covers, I've got some incoming. They had ran out before my order was completed so they knew they owed me some.

 

[Nobody-named-Olli]

My most sincere condolences for your loss @KwikFab !

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[KwikFab]

My most sincere condolences for your loss @KwikFab !

Kind regards,
Oliver

Appreciate the kind words!

 

[KwikFab]

What a day, from dropping off the dog with the vet at 715am to detailing the wife's car and doing her oil change, washer and dryer getting delivered, and cutting parts, once I'm done welding a few things up I can relax the rest of the day.

As for the parts I recently cut and bent, here's a 3D mock up.









Going to use my truck tomorrow to do a "mock install" for documenting some instructions for local buyers.

 

[KwikFab]

And the welded parts for the above assembly.



Nuts don't need anything more than just two good small welds. The threads will strip or the bolts will break before the nuts ever break off.

 

[larry4406]

And the welded parts for the above assembly.



Nuts don't need anything more than just two good small welds. The threads will strip or the bolts will break before the nuts ever break off.

Surprised you are not using rivnuts?

 

[KwikFab]

Surprised you are not using rivnuts?

Aren't they weaker though?

These plates with nuts welded on are the back plates for bolting on those large panels in my above CAD.

The large plates will have rock sliders welded to the faces, which will have to be strong enough to handle the force impact that is equivalent to a fully loaded truck.

I've never seen rivnuts used in such an application which is why I wrote them off completely.

 

[LXCam]

Aren't they weaker though?

These plates with nuts welded on are the back plates for bolting on those large panels in my above CAD.

The large plates will have rock sliders welded to the faces, which will have to be strong enough to handle the force impact that is equivalent to a fully loaded truck.

I've never seen rivnuts used in such an application which is why I wrote them off completely.

Welded steel nuts are a much better solution for this. Rivnuts are great for blind locations and for assemblies not subject to impact like your application. Plus all those would do is add time and complexity to something that’s a one minute one n done.

Bud, between you and lil scorpion I’m really jealous of that brake. I might have to hit up Santa for one this year.

 

[Snip's]

Aren't they weaker though?

These plates with nuts welded on are the back plates for bolting on those large panels in my above CAD.

The large plates will have rock sliders welded to the faces, which will have to be strong enough to handle the force impact that is equivalent to a fully loaded truck.

I've never seen rivnuts used in such an application which is why I wrote them off completely.

We used the same welded nut method on projects in my shop...
We did find a slight shrinkage occurred to the nuts from the welding heat relieving the stresses in the nuts...
When working with SS, we would run a tap through the SS nuts to reform the threads after welding...
This step prevented the nuts from galling with material transfer and seizing on the SS bolts...
Anti Seize was always applied to the SS threads...

 

[LXCam]

We used the same welded nut method on projects in my shop...
We did find a slight shrinkage occurred to the nuts from the welding heat relieving the stresses in the nuts...
When working with SS, we would run a tap through the SS nuts to reform the threads after welding...
This step prevented the nuts from galling with material transfer and seizing on the SS bolts...
Anti Seize was always applied to the SS threads...

I always put a dab of copper anti seize on the bolt I use to hold it in place then run them out as quickly as possible after welding.

 

[KwikFab]

I also did the whole anti seize thing, although I was also fully welding in nuts to the ends of tubes.

I'm pretty sure I posted it before here in this thread but if I haven't, here's me working at my first gig as a 'fabricator'. I say it like that because while I was completely new and it was my first actual welding job, I went into a shop that did everything from scratch (boss was a cheap ***).









Whenever we sold benches, it was always in a batch of say 10, 20, even 60 sometimes which meant lots of these tubes.

 

[KwikFab]

Welded steel nuts are a much better solution for this. Rivnuts are great for blind locations and for assemblies not subject to impact like your application. Plus all those would do is add time and complexity to something that’s a one minute one n done.

Bud, between you and lil scorpion I’m really jealous of that brake. I might have to hit up Santa for one this year.

What all sorts of fab work do you do?

A brake is always useful for damn sure, it's just when you get into the standardized tooling that things really change by a large margin.

I really like how the ends are open, allowing me to make small flanges on an otherwise large part.

You owe it to yourself to get one!

 

[KwikFab]

Since my business partner got *******, I took this morning to just do the mock install myself.

Was really simple actually, and it gave me a good idea of revisions I'll need to make. I say "we" in the video (I'll post it once I make it) since I'm just cutting the plates, bending parts, and welding nuts to specific parts.

He will handle making the sliders themselves which is the bending, notching, and welding of all the tubed sections.









I am by no means reinventing the wheel here at all as there are many companies that offer these for a variety of vehicles. The only problem is, they get very expensive and between different manufacturers, some have a few strong points but lack key things other companies provide.

Files also exist for many of these vehicles and I found a template for the factory holes for my own truck. It was just a matter of figuring out flange lengths and test fitting them first before getting to where we are now.

All I did was create my plate, using the bolt holes as my "template". I then made changes and added features to utilize what I liked from other companies, and have worked on putting this all together as a package using my own truck as the template.

Since I established a target for the material, parts, and labor, and my business partner has long established his own target for his sliders, combined we are both a lot cheaper than companies offering these themselves while offering the ability to make them a weld-it-yourself option (as a kit) or ready to go and powder coated.

 

[LXCam]

What all sorts of fab work do you do?

A brake is always useful for damn sure, it's just when you get into the standardized tooling that things really change by a large margin.

I really like how the ends are open, allowing me to make small flanges on an otherwise large part.

You owe it to yourself to get one!

There's no easy answer here, I do a ton of ****. Everything from one off personal stuff to custom production **** associated with my industry (jail / prison construction).

Some stuff I can show, some I can't but here's a simple one I can share. One of the big no-no's is creating a hand or foot hold for climbing and the biggest deal being a ligature tie point. I made these for a outside camera within a area that the walls were 16ft tall with no cover and the cameras mounted at 10ft. Very much within the reach of a couple guys working together to climb out had we simply mounted the cameras flat on the wall.

Well darn it, it looks like I no longer have a completed install picture. This was 16ga but I'd have rather used 14ga. And the final product was completely seem welded and powder coated white. Obviously the camera was attached on the lower 45.


Then there's a oddball stuff like I did in this thread.

Building tube fenders for a jeep

What was I thinking. :headscrat Well scope creep got the best of this project that's for darn sure. What started out as a AC install and lift kit lead to a front bumper and now these fenders. Anybody here done these in house or am I the only ******* :spit: But right or wrong, good or bad I...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[KwikFab]

There's no easy answer here, I do a ton of ****. Everything from one off personal stuff to custom production **** associated with my industry (jail / prison construction).

Some stuff I can show, some I can't but here's a simple one I can share. One of the big no-no's is creating a hand or foot hold for climbing and the biggest deal being a ligature tie point. I made these for a outside camera within a area that the walls were 16ft tall with no cover and the cameras mounted at 10ft. Very much within the reach of a couple guys working together to climb out had we simply mounted the cameras flat on the wall.

Well darn it, it looks like I no longer have a completed install picture. This was 16ga but I'd have rather used 14ga. And the final product was completely seem welded and powder coated white. Obviously the camera was attached on the lower 45.


Then there's a oddball stuff like I did in this thread.

Building tube fenders for a jeep

What was I thinking. :headscrat Well scope creep got the best of this project that's for darn sure. What started out as a AC install and lift kit lead to a front bumper and now these fenders. Anybody here done these in house or am I the only ******* :spit: But right or wrong, good or bad I...

www.garagejournal.com

That's pretty badass! And I hear ya on the "not showing" certain things, there's plenty I'm not posting here or any other forum because the designs belong to those I'm cutting/making stuff for.

 

[KwikFab]

Placeholder video made -

I always add chapters cause most people like to skip stuff anyway.

 

[KwikFab]

Little mod to the brake today.

Not something I came up with as plenty of guys have modified their own - these brakes come with these large bars that require two hands to operate the ram.



I'm unsure why Langmuir chose them to be so spread apart, but a few others speculate that it was maybe a means of keeping the end user's hands and body away from the pinch point as much as possible.

Some people cut the tubes down, others relocate the wiring to the switches and run them to another foot pedal, others use toggle switches. I decided to do away with the handles, but maintain the safety of a two-hand operation so I 3D printed these little parts.



Not something I came up with, just found it on Bambulab. Fortunately the button is just a cheap generic one with a means of easy plugging/unplugging into.










No more is there a risk of hitting my head on these things.



I did come close to doing so many times, especially when I assembled and installed my backgauge. Fired it up to confirm it works and of course, it does!

I'll need to pick up some steel tomorrow and start knocking out more parts soon.

 

[KwikFab]

On another note, I probably never mentioned this (since I have too many hobbies) but I used to do lots of night shoots as well as extended long range. I'm talking 2,500 to 3,00 yards mainly with my .338LI with my DTA SRS action.









Unfortunately those MOD3B's are gone as I recently got them out of storage and sold them. I still have PVS14's and played with them for a bit last night.





Thinking I might put together another set as I still have extra tubes, housings, and more. Thing is, night vision gets up there in the tens of thousands even though I've got quite a lot more ******* in guns I don't shoot

 

[bugnut]

might weld nuts with only 4 sides , available in stainless steel also, work to reduce the weld time and not shrink. Beetle used them for fender mountain and such.

 

[KwikFab]

might weld nuts with only 4 sides , available in stainless steel also, work to reduce the weld time and not shrink. Beetle used them for fender mountain and such.

I've got some left over, and they work well.

But man they get expensive so I don't use them at all as I buy what I use in packs of 250+.

 

[KwikFab]

When it comes to customers and CNC plasma I've got two rules - if you bring your own steel, it cannot be rusted and if I'm going to cut something, only 1/4" or thinner.

I can do thicker than 1/4", but I don't like to since my machine is only 45 amps and often times the work they need done is better sent out for CNC laser. CNC plasma can and will have a natural bevel that occurs especially on one side called the "bad side" and it's more apparent on thicker material. If I owned a 65 amp plasma cutter, then I'd happily take on said work.

The only exception to this rule is when it's for a friend since I never charge them but man, this 3/8" I got from him was absolutely rusted to ****. I should've taken a picture before I cleaned off the surfaces as these are post clean up.



The other one beside it was way worse









And here's a quick test cut I did before knocking those parts out and the one side that shows a bit more bevel than the rest.

 

[67CarGuy]

Good eye!

I even lined up the bolts holding the outlet covers for any and all switches and outlets I've put my hands on in the house

Maybe it is OCD, but it's also attention to detail!

 

[KwikFab]

Went to my business partner's shop so we can tack on the sliders to the plates I made, and create an updated instructional video.

Just the pics I grabbed as we were mostly busy with installation, uninstallation, tacking, welding, and more.





The sliders I'll actually attach to my truck will be a weld-on solution.

 

[KwikFab]

Hope some of y'all got to enjoy Mother's Day yesterday.

Really hit me harder than I expected it to, but kept busy enough to not let it change things.

Got my wife some Edible Arrangements as she loves the stuff, especially the pumpkin pie stuff. That and went out for sushi.

Also got one of my housings put together so I've got two sets of nods on hand now.



If only I had an extra $9k or so I can put together my bare housing for a third set



Today I got started and knocked out some orders so just have to get some packaging material for shipping them out.

 

[KwikFab]

Went to my business partner's shop so we can tack on the sliders to the plates I made, and create an updated instructional video.

Just the pics I grabbed as we were mostly busy with installation, uninstallation, tacking, welding, and more.





The sliders I'll actually attach to my truck will be a weld-on solution.

After knocking out several orders, I got to revisit this once more now that the legs are welded up.







Bolted up they're a bit tucked but still out there enough to provide some level of protection.



Funny cause I'm a tube guy so I like how they flow well with my bumper.





I may temporarily make my own set, but with a 10 degree angle like I had on my Land Cruiser and 4Runner.

I say temporary because I've always ran a welded set, and I feel they are much stronger than a bolt on set although many people around here won't need anything more than a bolt on set.

 

[rd65]

Are you powder coating or painting for easier touch up?

 

[KwikFab]

Are you powder coating or painting for easier touch up?

This set will get powder coated if it doesn't sell in 2-3 weeks, and if so, will also be installed on my truck for display.

My temporary set I make for myself for bolting on will also get powder coated, and will also be a set 'available for sell'.

The final set that I'll weld onto my own truck will also be powder coated, but mainly because my business partner will do it for me at no cost. He powder coated my bumper for me some time back along with associated parts.



I really dig the textured finish he applies not to mention he etches the bare metal with a rust-free coating before powder coat. This way if the powder coat scratches or chips, the bare metal underneath isn't prone to rusting (easily). From there I'll just run black spray paint for touch ups.

 

[KwikFab]

Already got another request as we just finished up the last set.

So I decided to cut, clean, and bend up another set. Glad these are so fast to make.



















Had no intentions of working today since I normally do stuff on the weekends. But these are about 80% done with the 2 large plates needing 3 small bends, and a few small plates needing to have nuts welded on.

My business partner picked up some DOM for the main body and kick out so he'll get that going whenever.

 

[Chris F]

What's the shortest leg you can bend on the Langmire with there dies?

 

[KwikFab]

What's the shortest leg you can bend on the Langmire with there dies?

So, that's specific to the tooling used and as far as I can see, Langmuir's smallest die is 8mm wide (0.315).

I think it's stupid that they kept to metric sized openings for an American standard punch and die setup, but it makes sense since I bet the tooling is made overseas.

Knowing that, you should expect a flange as short as 0.15" since you just need it to be supported by the die.

Here's a small flange at only 0.25" long that I did on my old brake with a 0.63" opening and 60 degree punch.



I don't own Langmuir's 8mm acute die and instead do everything on their 4 way. The flanges for these parts on 3/16" are 0.65".



So just comes down to tooling, and being standard openings means you can opt to use non-Langmuir tooling.

 

[KwikFab]

Since I did most of today's work yesterday evening, today ended up being a short work day.

Few bends on the large plates.



Perfect as expected.



Then welding on the hardware.





And the kit is done.



Only thing missing is the M8 x 25mm x 1.25 grade 10 hardware which should arrive by tomorrow.

 

[LeonardY]

Really hit me harder than I expected it to

It sneaks up on you.

Last time for me, I was shopping at the grocery store. Saw my mom's favorite ice cream sandwiches.

 

[KwikFab]

It sneaks up on you.

Last time for me, I was shopping at the grocery store. Saw my mom's favorite ice cream sandwiches.

Recently we went out to Monterey (just 2-3 hours away) to meet up with my close friends so our kids could visit the aquarium and celebrate their birthdays together.

I remember getting back home and telling myself to text my mom that we got home safely; even at 40 years old and I never wanted her to worry because it's all she'd ask whenever I'd leave town. That stuck with me the rest of the night and still happens whenever we head out of town and back.

 

[KwikFab]

And since orders are going to open up soon, a repeat customer already sent me a template of the next art sculpture.



I don't believe I've mentioned this one before but I've done a few for him in the past.

A template arrives, I scale it as needed, and cut and weld the parts together.

Here's one from the beginning of last year (don't have a picture of the template).





And another I did a few months later.

Coming back to this sculpture piece (the top one in paper), I've got it scaled out.



My concern is that I'll have to extend the ends where the punch will make contact with the metal in order to provide a 'square' surface for pressing into.

Otherwise the material is just going to deform in on itself.

Or I can make one or both of them into separate parts and weld it all up which I really don't want to do.

 

[KwikFab]

Parts are cut.



Keeping to an exact 2:1 scale making sure all parts are at the same angle and distance.





Most would just mark and tack; I'll go through and also use spacers to ensure the exact distance between things.







Now I'm just waiting for the customer to advise me on where to run a weld, or tack since these pieces get displayed.







That outside corner weld I ran fast and hot since most times he wants me to grind them off anyway so ignore the weld.

It's strong, just not pretty

 

[Old Man Roger]

That would be the type of weld I would proudly post .lol