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Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT The Garage / Shop / House Thread - Motivation

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
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ctandc72

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Great work. What a mess of previous work that was.

I have heard great things about the Spraymax Clear for restoring headlights too.
Yeah I have a spare set of headlights for the '04 I need to wash / and wet sand. I have an extra can of clear set aside for that, but Spraymax actually sells a can of clear FOR headlights.

No clue on what the difference between the normal 2K Glamor clear is though

 
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cccoltsicehockey

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Charlotte, NC
Yeah I have a spare set of headlights for the '04 I need to wash / and wet sand. I have an extra can of clear set aside for that, but Spraymax actually sells a can of clear FOR headlights.

No clue on what the difference between the normal 2K Glamor clear is though

Oh wow that is really cool. Did not realize they had one specifically for it. Will have to get that when I get around to doing my Suburban.
 

SamYoung

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Massillon, Ohio
Thanks for the super detailed response. Paints not my specialty. I've done a fair amount of paint prep, but not spraying. For exterior finish work I used to have a buddy who did body work that I would have lay down the paint that mattered. My laying painting has been somewhat limited to floors, frames, and engine bays. I feel good about sanding and cleaning. I've got the full range of paper and a few sized blocks as well. A little less so about actually laying paint and planning qty.

I was aware that 2K clears are a true activated clear, but was unaware that the basecoats lacked a hardener.

I have looked into replacement covers, but its limited edition color (Scion/Toyota 580 millennium gold mica) makes ordering pre-painted choices limited. The ironic part is its only the standard bumper covers and not the other plastic/composite body parts that are fading and flaking. The factory body kit (valences and side skirts) still look great and still match the metal body panels. Also, I've only noticed it happening in certain colors (mine being one) for Scion. As you noted, it may have had something to do with the reaction from the non-standard basecoat paint not playing well with their standard primer and clear.
 
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ctandc72

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Got time to yank the front bumper cover today. It's faded. Original OEM cover and it's in surprisingly good shape. Got it scrubbed down clean. Ran out of 320 paper. Got some showing up tomorrow. Hopefully this will be much quicker than the rear bumper, but apparently the paint shop shipped my second order of base / clear via USPS - it was supposed to show up today. About noon the USPS tracking info magically switched from Nov 4th to Nov 6th. Lovely.

I'll prep it tomorrow, won't be able to spray it until Monday after work. So likely won't get it bolted on until Tuesday after work.

I have horrible experience receiving packages from the USPS - I should have double checked with way they were shipping it when I ordered it. They used UPS for the prior order. That's on me.

I'm gonna hit it with 320 dry, use adhesion promoter on the few spots that have rubbed down to the base plastic underneath. Hopefully 320 will be good enough. Might be a few small spots I'll have to go 180 then 320. At this point, don't even think I'll need primer. We'll see

front bumper2.jpeg
 
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ctandc72

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Worked on the bumper cover yesterday.

180 dry, then 320 dry.

front bumper prep1.jpeg

front bumper prep2.jpeg

Got it washed, dried, wiped down with prep spray, tacked and hit the bare spots with adhesion promoter. Hopefully color and clear this afternoon.
 
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ctandc72

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Busy with work and everything else plus the time change - not a lot of daylight left after work to get color / clear on this front bumper cover. Finally got it done today after taking the day off to deal with DMV paperwork.

There is some trash in the clear, that's the nature of the beast spraying outside. There should be plenty of clear to wetsand down the road if I feel the need.

I'll take it

front painted1.jpeg

front painted2.jpeg
 
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ctandc72

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Finally got some new headlights for the '04. I had a used pair I was refurbishing. Wet sand / rinse / wet sand etc etc then 2k clear coat. Of course I just randomly chose one of the pair of headlights I'd gotten used (got them cheap - so no big deal). That headlight came out great

refurbed headlight1.jpeg

So I went to do the same to the other headlight. Found some damage to the inner black painted part of the sealed headlight. And of course, it's the LH headlight - which is actually the one I most want to replace.

I bit the bullet and ordered some DEPO brand CAPA certified replacements from Rock Auto. They came in, got them mounted, bulbs transferred over and gave the car a quick wash. Not bad.

clean1.jpeg

clean2.jpeg

I'll take it. I might take the buffer to it to see if it's got any more life left in the OEM paint, but not bad for a 20 year old daily driver.
 
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ctandc72

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That really cleaned up the overall look of the car. Great work. Fresh headlights bring so much life back.
Thanks and yeah they did sharpen the look of the car up. Also much better at night - I had already replaced / upgraded the bulbs.

But now it looks good enough I decided to break the buffer out and see what the original paint might look like cleaned up a bit. Damn that rabbit hole. Ordered a couple of pads and some cutting compound and polish.
 

EastTexJTR

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Howdy! I'm new here and purchased a house and shop not to long ago. My first shop and I couldn't be happier! Look forward to sharing info, learning and watching yalls shops grow while sharing my shops transformation.

I hope to have a small fabrication business in the future. 4x4, jeep, offroad trailers and such but for now I'm just happy that it's finally half way organized after being a complete mess from moving. 20231119_111422.jpg
 

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ctandc72

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Okay this Edelbrock carburetor from our '84 GMC is got me almost ready to chuck it across the shop.

84GMC1.jpeg

The truck in question shown above. It had been sitting for 6-8 months? So a couple of months ago I decide to get it running / driving since it'll be a while before I have the shop space to start tearing it down for rebuild. Can't stand to see it sit.

305 / 700R4 (paperwork on full rebuild when we got it several years ago) - 4WD works well, I added 4.10 gears a while back (305 w/ 3.08s not exactly a work horse - just saying).

The Edelbrock was on the truck when we got it. Never really had to mess with it. Go to crank it up a while back, it starts ******* gas out of the body of the carb. I pull the carb - figuring stuck float or something along those lines - the inside of this thing is horrible.

Okay - no problem. I tear it apart, throw the parts / pieces in my parts cleaner. Let it soak. And soak. Scrub, then soak. The garbage in the body of the carb body is not having it. I've tried carb soak, etc etc.

The thought of buying a new or even a used carb chaps my *** - since this thing is going EFI (where it retains a SBC or I go LSx) regardless. But I'm fighting the urge of going down that rabbit hole right now.

My last effort will be later this week. After talking to a buddy who does a ton of carb rebuilds, he told me to go get some 30% Muriatic Acid, cut it with water and soak the pieces for 10 minutes at a time, then rinse with clean water and once it's clean enough dunk it in a baking soda / water mix to neutralize the acid, clean it out and put it back together. Since I don't care about the appearance of the carb - just the function.

This truck came with a QJet. Figured I'd just find a core locally and build it. Wow. Prices have sure gone up in the 20+ years since I've really messed with carbs (I like EFI - what can I say - even though I cut my teeth on lots of QJets since I was poor and everyone tossed them for Holleys etc).

Here's hoping the acid works.
 
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ctandc72

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More than two years later....LMAO
Life comes at you fast.

Last two years have been chock full of times where I seem to be jumping from fix to fix, instead of working things that were 'planned' projects.

Spent a good six months going through things I've collected over the years. I'm sure many of you know what I'm talking about.

"I'll be glad I kept that if I ever need one."
OEM radios. Intake manifolds - for engine types I don't even run / own anymore. Crate after crate of stuff I collected turning (3) 90s Broncos into one, which was sold a good while back.

Between Facebook Marketplace and Ebay, I clawed back some room in my shop and garage.

And JUST when I'd catch up on things that NEED to be done and try to get to some things I want to do?

The '03 Mustang my son drives had been plugging along just fine. The one day he calls me. "Car won't move. Engine is running fine, no weird noises. Pulled out onto the main road, and then it just stopped pulling. Nothing. No Reverse, No low, No Drive. It's an automatic... 4R70W.

Get it back to the shop. It has fluid in it, that doesn't look burnt or bad. No weird noises. Drop the pan. Filter is in the pan. Fairly common issue. Call my buddy I grew up with who knows these transmissions. I describe everything going on. I ask him:

"No gears at all. It's gotta be the pump or the converter. Right?"

He tells me that's about it - but if it was the converter the fluid wouldn't be so clean. Likely the pump. Pressure test would confirm. So I put a new filter (already had it) back in it, put the pan on it, filled it with fluid. I think my son and I were both hoping it was just that filter issue - though I knew that wasn't likely the case. Nothing. No gears.

It's gotta be the pump. Right? Nope. Pressure test is fine. Okay - something internal has left the chat, transmission has to come out regardless. So we get to it.

IMG_5627.JPEG

160k+ - looks to have never been out. Fluid / pan was not bad at all. No major metal shavings. Guys I know:

"Just get a good used transmission, those things are a dime a dozen!"

True - literally millions of 4R70W transmissions produced - but the VAST majority of those lived behind 4.6 engines. Different bolt pattern from the same trans here used behind the 3.8. But guess what does share that 3.8 bolt pattern? The traditional Ford Small Block. Want to swap an overdrive in your 289, 302, 351 car without a lot of drama? Find a 3.8 Mustang version or a 5.0 Explorer version. My buddy says some places want $350 just for a buildable core.

I'm a three pedal guy myself. Always have been. Talked to several local guys that came recommended. Take out price for a STOCK rebuild? $650-1200. Helluva range. Of course no 'real' warranty. That I understand, since they aren't installing - they can't be sure the customer is installing a new converter and flushing the trans cooler - if they don't all that lovely clutch material goes right into the rebuilt trans.

Fine - I'll take it apart and fix it. Not a lot of sensors, just lots of seals, bushings and clutch packs. At worst rebuild / replace the pump. Maybe a screwy valve body. Worst case? Rebuilt converter and replacing all the parts is still way cheaper than the cheapest 'rebuild' (which usually just replaces seals / bad bushings and the burnt clutches etc).

Never even had to remove the pan again. Get it out - of course the last owner stripped two exhaust studs, so I have to replace those, but that's par for the course. And of course the ADULT, previous owner, decided to install a OEM Mustang GT exhaust. "For the sound." It was "custom" installed by an exhaust shop. I'm tempted to message the guy to tell me which shop so I can make sure that no one I like ever goes there.

Pull the converter. Doesn't smell burnt. Fluid inside looks okay. I had already ordered a rebuilt converter from Summit - worse case I'd be replacing it when I rebuilt it. Waited to order internal rebuild parts until I knew what hard parts were bad. Good thing. Looking at the new converter versus old? The splines literally 'spun' inside the old converter. I thought had pictures. Guess not. Input shaft was fine. Installed the new converter. Fought the new converter to actual seat ALL the way on the shaft - old converter was really sloppy compared to new. Got it seated. Fixed exhaust, installed everything, new fluid.

All gears working. I'll take the small wins. It's been fine for quite a while now.

Then late last year, when it was ridiculously cold for VA - I had a water leak in the crawl space.

The house was custom built 20+ years ago (not by me) and well done, overbuilt really, for the most part. On land, well water. BUT the plumber decided to use PEX (fine) but randomly used some STEEL unions on certain runs. (Not fine). I've replaced them as I've run across them over the years with various leaks sprung - I'd re run that section.

This time a plastic 90 cracked.

But this leak? It's almost inaccessible. When the house was built (2 story Colonial) only ONE heat pump / AC was installed. They installed a second later. So of course the second air handler was installed in the crawl space - AFTER plumbing had already existed.

IMG_5411.JPEG

That's the ducting for the retrofitted air handler (again before we owned it). Good luck getting my PEX tool in there.

This happened at night. Just after work. Dark. Single digit temps. Was able to get a temp repair in (that barely leaked) to get by until the next morning, where I sucked up all the water with a shop vac and laid in the WET while fixing it. It was a balmy 22 degrees or so.

Around that time (it all blends in) the hot water heater sprung a leak. I had replaced the original heater ('99 when house was built) back in @ 2019. First one (likely never flushed) lasted 20 years, I'll go the same route.

This one lasted 6+ years. The tank sprung a leak. At least they honored their warranty. SC based company. Actually got a native SC person on the phone when I called. (I grew up there - you can't disguise that accent). Sent her pictures of the tank failure. She sent me all the info, go to Lowe's with old heater - get replacement. Simple right??

Show up to lowe's with old heater. Have the email / info from manufacturer for warranty. Apparently Lowe's updated their system. Manager gets involved, he's filling out all the prompts for info his system wants, submitting it - it keeps throwing him in a loop. Over and over. He gets frustrated. I get frustrated. Finally he looks at me.

"Do we have that same model in stock?"

Me: "Yes, I already checked."

Him: "Just go get the new one."

NOTE: The warranty is full replacement from manufacturer BUT the difference in price is on me. It was @ $70 more expensive for same heater. I get it back to the return desk, he does this thing, hands me a receipt and says "have a good day, sorry about the trouble."

Saved me $70. A hot water tank failing in 6 years is another issue - but hey - like I've said take the small wins.

Get it to the house, get it installed. It leaks a bit - from the HEATER itself at the top of the tank where the factory inlet / outlet is located. Turn out they weren't tightened enough from the factory. I fix that. No leaks.

Note - I did not turn on the heater's breaker until the tank is FILLED - not my first rodeo unfortunately. It heats up - takes forever to give hot water and it's not really "hot". Check settings. This thing was definitely UNOPENED since leaving factory - let me be clear about that. Called their warranty support. Get another SC local. Who then proceeds to tell me I need a certified plumber to look at it. IF it's bad - they'll pay $500 towards the cost. Do they realize what plumbers would charge to show up (not to mention how long that would take) and remove old heater to go get ANOTHER Warranty replacement? The cost would literally be MORE than be going and just buying a totally new heater at the store myself.

Tell the guy about the factory installed connections that leaked - that I fixed. He literally lectured me "I know every inch of those heaters and how they're built....." I hung up. I decided to pull the elements (dual element heater). Again this was a BRAND NEW, UNOPENED heater from Lowe's.

Here's one of the elements I pulled out of said brand new heater:

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IMG_0256.JPEG

Installed new elements. Flushed it -no sediment AT ALL. Let tank fill. Turned on breaker. Hot water - fast and plentiful.

The joys of being a homeowner. I live on 5 acres. And I can shoot / hunt on my property. And I like the one neighbor I can SEE from my property. So yeah - still worth it to me.
 
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ctandc72

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I've mentioned my FIL's '08 Silverado. It's been spending more and more time "parked" at our place. Finally he just gives it me. Get the title in my name, get it registered. Three days later? Son drives it to work - says the transmission is acting "funny" on the way home. He's been kind of ultra paranoid since his Mustang transmission 'adventure'. He enjoyed removing / replacing that as much as I did. Meaning not at all.

I check fluid. It seems a bit low, but clean fluid. I add a bit. Test drive it. Seems fine. No codes for transmission - just the nagging Evap sensor code (I'll get to that later) No obvious transmission leaks I can see.

NOTE: It's a 2008. With 250K+ miles. A truck with this many miles? That's never had the engine out? It leaks. I like to think of it was marking it's territory - bragging about how long it's been around. But no obvious ATF leaks at all. I knew it was losing almost a quart between oil changes from the rear main seal - but again not ATF.

I tell son to drive it to work the next day see what happens. He gives me a look. I tell him:

"Look if it's bad - it's bad. It's got a quarter million miles on it. I promise I won't yell AT you if it dies. I might yell, but not AT YOU."

It dies. Fine on the way to work. 10 hours later. Loses 3rd/4th gear (VERY common with 4L60E) on the way home. I make a dump run to confirm - yes 1st and 2nd gear are totally fine (after throwing some fluid in it). Still not easily visible leaks. 3rd/4th? Gone. Get it home, pull it in the shop. Find what looks to be a power steering leak. It's a power steering line.

Nope. It's the auxiliary trans cooler line (this truck has the radiator trans cooler AND an OEM auxiliary trans cooler). Turns out it's been leaking. But where it was leaking, leaching out on the P/S line + the shield underneath etc, there was no ATF evidence on the ground. That's fun. Tracks too - 3rd/4th gear in the 4L60E requires the most fluid pressure to engage / hold clutches.

My FIL apparently had this thing 'rebuilt' 100K or so ago. He offers to replace. I tell him not to sweat it. I'll yank it and see what's up.

Oh yeah - I priced this one too. Take it to a shop with a "buddy" discount? He pulls it, rebuilds it, rebuilt converter, 6 month warranty...$3500. LMAO. Labor rates are no joke anymore huh? Turns his normal charge is quite a bit higher than that. And he's stacked up with jobs. I guess I don't pay attention to mechanics' rates since my labor is free.

I crawl under and notice this:

IMG_0316.JPEG

IMG_0317.JPEG

I would have thought the shop that he's frequented for 30 years for state inspections would have noticed and mentioned this. To be fair, I didn't notice it - but I only ever went under the truck for oil changes and an O2 sensor (I slide under the front). Mea culpa. But this is common with these trucks. Midwestern people here are probably laughing at this.

They make a frame overlay to fix this. All the parts to rebuild the trans are on the way at this point. Let's keep going

Go to drop the exhaust. The last shop to work on it? Apparently they broke off two exhaust studs. It wasn't leaking at least. But they did impact on and cross thread a GOOD stud on each side. So I yanked the wheel wells and they gave up the fight w/o much drama. Much better access this way.

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Dropped the exhaust. Didn't have to cut the bolts connecting the Y-pipe to the rear exhaust. SMALL wins. Remember?

Get the Transfer Case out

IMG_0348.JPEG

Remember FIL said he "had the transmission rebuilt" 100K or so ago? Nope. He apparently paid a shop to install a GM reman Transfer case, GM reman 4L60E and converter. Over $7k in parts today at my cost (which is well below retail).

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Get it all out. Roll the truck back out of the shop. Start tearing down the transmission. Parts start arriving.

Then one morning I get to work, driving my daily '04 Comp Orange GT - and walk past and smell the 'sweet' smell of coolant. No leaks. No drips. No overheating. After work I look - it's lost some coolant. Not in the oil. Not burning it. Time for a pressure test. Apparently the intake manifold is cracked.

For those who don't know, earlier 4.6 Ford engines were 'famous' for this. All plastic manifold - with plastic coolant crossover. Heat cycles. Happened enough they TOTALL redesigned the manifold around '00. My '04 got the 'redesign' that had an aluminum coolant crossover that is NOT supposed to have this issue.

Turns out until last year, the only real replacement were some aftermarket intakes that don't have the best reputation and effect power output (not in a good way) as well OR finding a 'PI' (performance improvement) intake ('00ish and later - Lincolns / Crown Vics had them well after the Mustang got redesigned in '05). People selling these used intakes for $200 and UP all the time.

Last year, "Ford" released a new service part for the 4.6. A "total" redesigned intake. Of course Ford doesn't actually make the intake, they never made the original. And apparently whomever made this new one? Summit Racing got in on the deal and had the supplier make them some of them too.

Ford part? $340 at the cheapest. Summit part? $199. They are IDENTICAL - same instructions (IDENTICAL) same accessories package (designed to be adapted to multiple 4.6 applications) - the ONLY difference?

Ford intake has FOMOCO molded into the plastic. Summit? Same spot has 'Summit Racing"

Since I'm doing the intake, and the car shows 114K (actually has @ 100K on body - gearing / tune issue dating back to the guy I bought it from and turns out EVEN less on the engine - I found the original owner - another story entirely) I figure belt tensioner, idler pullies, water pump, hoses, thermostat etc while I'm in there. Go in once and once only is possible is my theory. In theory.

Decide to do some cleaning in the engine bay while I'm in there. Remove the battery and tray. Had to cut the tray out. One of the bolts had rusted into oblivion. This car is has next to ZERO rust, even on the underside. Was garaged most of it's life. But there are spots the SN95 is simply prone to rusting. Luckily the shocked towers are great in mine - one TINY spot on just the outer LH shock tower where it meets the frame rail - frame rail and inner are mint. But under the battery? I'm guessing acid leak at some point. The corrosion was localized to JUST under the tray. No further in either direction.

IMG_0422.JPEG

It's 22 years old. That's life. Clean it up, get all the scale. No other spots anywhere - checked for soft spots. Treat it, and paint it with some rust converter paint I've used in the past. At some point I'll drop the K frame so I can redo the headers, and I'll address this permanently and base / clear the engine bay / front area. But it's fine for now.

Nothing to do but keep going.
 

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ctandc72

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Okay that's not going to get worse at least

IMG_0433.JPEG

Onto taking it all apart.

IMG_0434.JPEG

Not bad. Clean it up. Get it ready for the new intake. Bonus? The new intake has the intake gaskets, individual ports, installed on the intake. It is 2026 afterall.

Here's the side-by-side on old vs new

IMG_0436.JPEG

Of course my buddy calls "You done yet?" Apparently cleaning / assessing all part as they come out is not normal. Sue me. I think of it as surgery. Operate once if possible. I'm told cleaning the actual injectors is OCD - whatever.

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New intake, idler pullies, tensioner, water pump etc going on.

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Get it all back together. Fill the coolant. Fire it up to let it open the thermostat so I can burp the cooling system - idle is acting weird. Me thinking "It's a new intake. ECU needs to adjust." Warms up. Still idling / running weird.

"Almost sounds like a bad vacuum leak..." Turns out not connecting the large vacuum line on the back of the plenum causes a vacuum leak. Who knew? Immediately smooths out. Runs great. Burp the system, button it up. Back the 4L60E - but first let's take a look at the failed 'PI' intake redesign that was not supposed to fail.

Here's the original

IMG_0440.JPEG

While the crossover is aluminum - the actual intake in contact with the cylinder head coolant port? Plastic. Let's see - plastic, sandwiched in between metal mating surfaces, subject to hot / cold coolant passing through....thousand of heat cycles and 20+ years?

IMG_0446.JPEG

Huh. Who would have thought. Let me find my shocked face. Passed JUST enough coolant, only when hot, to cook it off. Didn't get in the fuel or oil. But that sweet smell? Yup. All those people collecting / hording these "improved design" intakes that are, at the newest, 15 years old? Good luck.

The new design?

IMG_0439.JPEG

I'm sure that was just a coincidence. Right? Anyway, all torqued down, buttoned up - been running great for a good while now. Zero coolant smell or loss. Went ahead and did the next oil change a bit early.

Who's the next victim before the truck takes over my shop?

Oh that's right - my wife's '13 Camaro SS ragtop.
 
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ctandc72

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A few months ago - when it was way too cold - a button buck decided to run INTO my wife's car one early morning. You read that right. She saw it, on the side of the road (We live in a rural area) and stopped. It decided to run into her door and the front bumper. No real damage at all. One small ding in the door, that I can likely get out by removing the door panel, and a small scuff on the very corner of the bumper cover. Then one night the wife was driving up our shared gravel drive and I was in the shop - and noticed one of the headlights 'dancing' a bit. I asked her about it.

"Oh yeah I was going to ask you about that." Ordered new DEPO headlight assemblies and better bulbs from Rock Auto. Of course I need to pull the front bumper to get at them. No pictures. It had been a long day at that point.

When we bought the car we knew beforehand it had the RH fender replaced and a bit of paint work done. It's White, they can't screw it up that bad. Apparently they had already replaced the RH headlight - with a cheap aftermarket part. And this was a GM dealership.
:rolleyes:

They also apparently can't keep straight which bolts go where. And they cross threaded one of the nuts that hold the bumper cover on. Impact I'm guessing. It of course 'spun' the captured nut cage inside the plastic bumper cover. Was able to get the bumper cover separated just enough to get a hacksaw blade in there, tape of the corners, and cut the bolt. Yup - it was the wrong bolt. That explains the cross threading.

As I suspected the plastic bracket of the RH headlight assembly had broken where it bolts onto the radiator support. Installed the new headlight w/ better bulbs. Got the cover aligned correctly, reinstalled. Plenty sturdy even with the cut off bolt acting as stud on one side. I did grab a pic when it was done. MUCH BETTER look and MUCH better lighting at night. Wife is happy.

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This is the pic I texted my wife when she asked "you still in the shop?"

Took the time to clean up the engine bay, and get it's oil change done as well. My wife bought me a cheap steam cleaner. Thing is epic. If it breaks tomorrow it was worth every penny. Got the engine bay cleaned up, the interior as well(works great to lift dirt from leather before treating / conditioning). Okay so back to the truck?

(Waiting on the sound of something else breaking)

Good.

Decided to yank the bed on the Silverado. Check the entire rear frame (Front is fine). Make sure it's worth fixing. I don't like surprises.
Can you tell?

The bed bolts came out with no drama, so I have that going for me. Wrestling that 8ft bed with only two people? Easy once it's off the truck - but otherwise would not recommend. Drafted my cherry picker into the deal and got it done. Back in the shop.

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$1K worth of new Michelins + rims (FIL likes Michelins ) and he went to Discount Tire (at my bidding) to get a leak from his valve stem checked out. It was the steel wheel itself. It was rusted through in one small spot. Only one wheel. Told him I could find him a used wheel, he said "I like this wheels the kid here showed me. Look at me, I'm fancy now."

See the broken filler neck? Unbolted from bed, moved it just enough to clear. "CRACK". Thing was hanging on by a thread. That would explain that nagging EVAP Code.

Got the bumper and hitch off.

IMG_0470.JPEG

Optional blue tooth frame. Apparently super common on these trucks here as well. They sell a overlay for this one, heavier steel, just remove the spring hangar well the overlay to clean metal, bolt the hangar back up.

Got the fuel tank dropped. Add in a rear tank strap that apparently decided to retire a while ago. Tank / pump / inside was ridiculously clean.

Air hammer + sledge + awl - ALL over the rear frame. No soft spots. Just scale. Except the flimsy EVAP canister mount. I have some spare metal sitting around I can make a new mount out of. So next up order the frame overlays @ $350ish. Bug my neighbor - he has a better welder as well as being a better welder than I am - then get the frame cleaned, treated and painted.

Then maybe I can get to cleaning and replacing / rebuilding all this



It's a truck. Dump runs. Yard stuff. I doubt it gets 5K miles a year. Works for me. Even with all the parts / specialty tools for the trans rebuild, new converter, new GM trans cooler lines, new nylon fuel lines, the frame repair + odds and ends I'll be in it for $1600-1700? it's still worth it. The body is NOT rusted. The paint is actually pretty nice. The interior too. The thing runs great. I might splurge for valve seals one day. Everything back together it's a $6-9K truck here all day long.

So I need to pressure wash the frame. I have an electric one I use for cars and smaller jobs - but I need to fire up the big boy. As I get it out, I wonder. "How long has it been since this thing's been started?"

Apparently whomever used it last didn't use the ethanol free gas. I will blame my son. It was probably me, but I'm blaming him anyway. Isn't that why we have children in the first place?

Cleaning the carburetor is apparently next. Tried to do a quickie job on it last night before I lost light. No dice. Left it soaking in parts cleaner.

IMG_0486.JPEG

Just like eating an elephant. One bite at a time.

Followed by a strong shot of good tequila, to wash down the taste...of old ethanol gas...I mean elephant.
 
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ctandc72

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Looks like the best option for the frame repair on the Silverado are the 'Safe-T-Caps'


This piece would overlay the mid frame damage I pictured above. Cut the very bottom of the original frame rail off - this was one of the issues with these frame - no holes at the low points for water / junk to escape - weld this over the original frame section. I'll have to cut away the mount for the ABS controller and make a new mount or salvage what I can from the old.


The rear frame section as well. Cut off the factory rivets holding on the spring hangar, lay this piece over, weld it, then bolt the hangar back on. Already drilled for this and comes with hardware. Apparently this section going bad is really common.


They even have the EVAP canister mount. For that price, it's worth to not have to cobble something together with metal I have in the shop.

Now it's down to fill neck assembly, fuel lines and Fuel tank straps - which apparently I need to measure since depending on application / year they can vary. Even GM VIN reference wasn't exactly clear on this. I can measure one at least. The other, well not really anything left to measure LOL.

Need to pick up some carb cleaner to get this pressure washer carb cleaned up. Ran out. This thing was nasty. Took a good of soaking just to get the emulsion tub to come out. The needle and seat is gunked up enough it won't come out w/o a fight.
 
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Got the pressure washer carb cleaned without resorting in a side quest to find just where I put my can of carb dip. I'm sure it's somewhere that will make sense once I actually need it and have to find it.

Didn't want to run it more than a few seconds without the water flowing into the pump - and didn't particular want to run the water in the dark outside - I hate the cold more and more the older I get.

Fired right up. Okay. So maybe I can get the frame cleaned up tomorrow. After I borrow the neighbor's truck and make a dump run.
 
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Well - the pressure washer runs. Good in fact. But apparently I might have damaged a gasket inside the fuel cut off switch enough when cleaning it that it now leaks a bit of fuel (coming from withing the valve itself). Not ideal, but I needed to get this frame clean so I can start stripping / prepping it. Fire it up - and it's spewing water from the connection point where the hose feeds the pump. A few minutes of investigation reveals an o-ring that is in two pieces. Lovely.

Couldn't find an o-ring in my stash that will work. So I go to order an assortment. Also start looking for a gasket kit for this carb, since the offending valve is part of the carburetor. Lots of 'non in stock' messages for the kit - and after more digging, apparently it's cheaper and easier to order an entire carburetor. Figures. So add that to the order. I need some new wire cup brushes anyway.

Project creep is real.
 
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Trying to get the shop organized better w/o going down a rabbit hole so I can start putting all this back together:

4l60e1.JPEG

But I got sidetracked first by my DD '04 GT needing the intake manifold replaced. When I had that all apart (new tensioner, pullies, water pump, intake manifold, hoses etc) I remember the OEM alternator having a little more drag than I liked. Plus I had the bright idea of finding a spare OEM, tearing it down, replacing bearings / brushes / regulator and painting the case. Okay local yards want $50 for a core alternator? The rebuild kit is $60. Get to looking what a new / rebuilt OEM / Motorcraft would cost and I could just rebuild / paint the old one at my leisure.

Looking at $70 USED alternators on Ebay, I find a guy listing a new in box Motorcraft alternator. For $100. Confirm it is what he says it is (he immediately listed another one after I bought this one - so I was a bit worried) until it arrive. Original, unopened (paper tape) Motorcraft box was inside another box.

new mc alt1.JPEG

Looks like the guy might have bought some dealer stock out. Never opened, test / spec sheet still in the box - including warning tags lol. Got it installed. Figured I'd share a good deal. Search that part # on Ebay.
 
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Was talking to a guy I know the other day - he asked about the color of my '04 GT (Competition Orange - one year only color for that generation Mustang). Very few made. Marti Report says a tick over 1K Mustang GTs with this color were made our of 36K GTs produced that year. Realized I hadn't shared the story of my car here, for those who might care.

It can be a small world.

A car is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Believe me, I understand that. I've bought and sold way too many cars / trucks over the years. The rarity of my car doesn't equate to anymore value than any other nice driver '04 Mustang GT - except for those who know and like the color and its rarity.

I randomly found my car on FB marketplace. I am the 4th owner. I bought it in '23 - 97K miles.
3rd owner - Purchased it in '09 55K miles
2nd owner - Purchased '08 49k miles

Things to note - my car had EVERY factory option you could get on a '04 Mustang GT 5 speed. Including the Mach 1000 stereo system (subwoofers in the trunk, amp rack etc). The couple I purchased it from? They were both in their 70s. It was his 'weekend' car. In fact he thought the stereo was added by the previous owner. He had no idea it was factory. I took him with me (he couldn't drive it anymore) on my test drive. I noticed right away it had different (lower / higher numerical) rear gearing installed. He commented.

"The speedometer has always been off, it reads fast."

NOTHING had been modified since he'd bought the car 14 years prior. It had:

- 3/4 length Stainless Bassani headers
- Catted Bassani x pipe
- Cat back exhaust
- Eibach springs
- Upgraded struts / shocks
- Aftermarket shifter

After looking around under the hood? It had a oil return line in the oil pan - that had been blocked off. This thing had likely had a supercharger installed at some point. Besides this, under hood appeared bone stock. Ran great. I bought it. They were surprised I didn't haggle the price. I would have felt bad if I'd tried.

I immediately bought a tuner and corrected the speedometer - the gears were 4.10 (I checked them).

97K when I bought it. In reality, because of the uncorrected speedometer - actual mileage was 86K.

I posted a couple of pictures and a bit of info about my car on a Mustang forum - note this is not a HUGE forum at all. In fact I didn't even visit that forum often. I notice a random email from the forum last year. I log in. There is a post in my thread from a newly registered user "I may be the original owner of your car. I messaged you the VIN."

Checked my messages. VIN was correct. It was the original owner. He even shared a picture of the car from back in the day

He bought the car new. At 10k miles he added a Vortech supercharger. Headers / exhaust. 4.10 gears, Eaton posi and Moser axles. Had it dyno tuned. Sold it in '08 showing 49k miles.

He then noted that at @ 40k miles, the engine burned a piston. Instead of rebuilding the original, he acquired a complete long block from an identical year GT that had been rear ended - that had @ 16k miles on it. He sold it later on, supercharger etc all still installed, running great.

That owner apparently removed the supercharger, installed the stock tune (thus speedometer reading 25% fast) and sold it to the guy I bought it from.

Here are a couple of pictures the original owner shared

Vortech1.jpg

Halibrand1.jpg
 
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The cheapo carb let the pressure washer fire right up with zero leaks. Kind of crazy it was less than HALF price to buy an entire new carb, that was identical to the old one - than buy the rebuild kit that had the one gasket I needed.

And the thing I didn't want to discover, but the thing I had a feeling about, before I started ordering steel / frame repair pieces for the silverado:

IMG_0500.JPEG


Keep in mind there is a lot more surface rust on the frame right now, since I've pressure washed / degreased it several times. I'll be cleaning it up and painting it as best I can to give this truck another 18 years of live hopefully.

Again this is so common on these trucks it's a readily available assembly from multiple suppliers. So all that's left to order for the truck is:

- Fuel filler neck assembly
- Fuel tank straps
- Replacement fuel lines
- The crossmember piece shown
- The middle frame repair overlay
- The rear frame repair overlay


With all that, the 4l60E rebuild parts (on hand already) + new converter + special tools etc, I'll still be way ahead of the game with a running / driving / weekend / work truck.

Just get run down with project creep is all. But that's the name of the game.
 
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Sidetracked. Again. Get home. Change. Go to shop. Run across new mulching blades I bought when the only that needed mowing was snow.

Was planning on doing diff / ATF fluid swap in the wife's '13 Camaro SS ragtop. See the leaves building up around the property. Dammit.

Get the mower out of the garage, move it in front of shop. Lift it up on jack stands to replace blades. See compacted / dried grass on the deck. Get the scraper. Question my life choices. See what's left of the deck paint and some surface rust. Start griping about the quality of new things - realize the mower is over 9 years old.

Question my life choices again. Drop the deck. Rather do it now then start griping about the rust holes in the deck in a few years then remember when I could have headed it off.

Get the newly fixed pressure washer. What's that? Oil? Smells like gas. Crankcase still has oil. Yup. That leaking fuel shut off in the carb - the reason I had to buy a $19 carb because the rebuild kit with that gasket was $40+ - dammit. Light a cigarette. Damn the torpedoes. Fire it up, pressure wash the deck. Runs fine. Didn't run it long. Add another oil change to the list.

IMG_0514.JPEG

Fought the urge to try and make it perfect. Remember how much I hate mowing. Throw a coat of paint on it. Move it so I can get the Mustang parked in the shop - wind really kicking up. I'll get another couple coats on it tomorrow.

IMG_0515.JPEG

I need to win the lotto so I don't have to work for a living. Who am I kidding? If that happens I would have went and bought a trailer wet blast rig, spent three days stripping the deck to bare metal, epoxy / prime - then base coat / clear coat - why not get rid of that yellow and go Comp Orange to match the Mustang.

Oh well. Could be worse and last time I checked this was a lot cheaper than paying for therapy.
 
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Haven't got back to the mower deck yet. Can you tell I just love mowing? :rolleyes:

Tuesday just wasn't feeling it. Got a tooth bothering me and I hate the dentist. I blame the Army. My entire life, up until I got out of the Army in '97 - I had two cavities. Both were filled before I went in the Army. Never had any issues. As I'm processing out, we had a new Capt who was insistent that I take advantage of my 'free' Army dental care. I go to the Army dentist. Tell him I have no issues, I'm good to go. They take x-rays anyway. Tell me I have two cavities - yes I know - they were filled years ago. It's fine. Just initial here please so I can go.

Nope. He decides to "redo them right". Well those two teeth? I've had nothing but trouble from 'em since. Root canal a few years out of the Army - on one tooth he "fixed". Finally had it removed not too long ago. Now the other one he 'fixed' is giving me grief.

Anyway, was going to go after it yesterday - got home and wife wanted to go to Lowes and a couple other places. Doesn't tell me she wants to pick up a new shrub and lawn rake. Remember the truck has no transmission right now -but my Mustang the rear seat folds down. Of course I don't realize we're buying rakes so we take her convertible and put the top down.

Yes turns out you can fit two rakes in a '13 Camaro SS ragtop - even with the top down. Ran a couple more errands, grabbed some food on the way home. Not going to lie - it didn't take much arm twisting to not want to work on the mower deck. I'll try to hit later this afternoon.

Then it's rear diff / ATF fluid change on the SS - and pull out the middle frame patches that came in for the Silverado. And break my welder out and see if I can recapture some of little welding skill I used to have.
 
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Got a few more coats of paint on the mower deck. Went to mount the new blades I bought back in December. 21" is the correct size. They were highly recommended by people I know - and made in the USA. I hate to say it - but someone's tape measure is out of whack. I know 21" blades aren't really 21" but these things were off enough they not only hit the deck in a few spots, but came close to hitting each other on that 42" two blade deck.

Maybe the universe is telling me I should never mow grass. After trying to convince myself, then my wife - I dug through my metal bucket and rack and found the original blades and the last pair I'd mounted. Found the best pair, got out the grinder and couldn't find my flap discs. I know I bought a box. Lovely. A quick Lowe's run later, some love with a 60 grit flap disc, I installed the 'reconditioned' blades (even hung 'e on a nail to make sure they weren't totally out of balance) installed / leveled the deck. Ended up decimating a ton of leaves and the super sharp blades did a great job.

In the midst of all this, finally got the time to get the front windshield in my '04 GT replaced. Found a local place where I could actually wait in their shop and get a feel for how good they were. Yes I'm picky - I normally do all the work on my vehicles. The shop I used in the past, he sold out and retired a while back.

Of course the original plastic cowl trim / vent cover (22 years old) had an existing crack that I'd never noticed. Shop owner said it would likely come off in pieces (he was right) - I ordered a new repro why they were finishing up the install of the new glass. It should be here tomorrow. Yay - more 'mods' I hadn't planned on.

When mowing, realized it's already April and I need to get the weedeater how. Okay, so I was wrong. Winter has ONE redeeming quality - no yard work.
 
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The new cowl vent came in. Apparently staring at it did NOT enable it to self install. Broke out the backpack blower and lines up piles of leaves to mulch them up with the mower.

Got the cowl vent cover installed.
 
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Old cowl vent - 20+ years in the sun tends to make plastic a bit brittle. I'm actually impressed the shop that did the windshield was able to get it back on in one piece. I wasn't that patient removing it to install the new one


old cowl.JPEG

Bought a new jack - nothing wrong with my old one, 20+ years still works fine. But the thought of a low profile jack so I don't have to use boards to get under the front bumper / ground effects on the Mustangs and the Camaro was nice. Plus it goes higher and it's longer. $100 off and of course it's Orange like the car.

jacks.JPEG

Turns out my old jack IS low profile and a 1/2" or so lower than the new one. Oh well - this one is a lot longer for reach and goes a lot higher. My own fault for not checking.

Did I mention it was Orange?
 
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So the '04 GT has been making a 'noise'. It's not a mechanical noise - I've just noticed the road noise seems 'different' (highly technical term). Finally decided to get it in the shop and see what's on. If you refer back in this thread - 2023 if memory serves - the following have been replaced:

- Inner / outer tie rods
- Lower Control Arms (bushings were shot)
- Ball joints
- Struts
- Springs

And I'm sure some other stuff.

I did a quick and dirty alignment after all that - I just set the Toe in on the car. I knew I likely had a bit more negative camber than is prudent for better tire wear. Common with these cars. But it rides / steers / handles great. Not to mention, I plan on changing the current 17x8 (OEM) Bullitt type wheels for something different. Arguably at this point it'll likely be 17x9 Bullitt repo's on all four corners - so I didn't go all out when I replaced the front tires several years back - since I knew they'd be replaced.

So yeah - the different road noise is the tire. The wheel bearing / hub seems fine (even though age / mileage is leaning me towards replacing it before too long). It has some inner tire wear. It's not 'severe' but it's enough that I feel it / see the 'ridge' where it's wearing more on the inside. Since the rear tires (already had them) are a larger size, a standard rotation isn't an option.

Measured camber and it's @ -2.1° on the LF and I'm sure close to the same on the RF. Ideally, for me and how I drive it and how I like it to handle, the better setting for a decent compromise for handling / tire wear would be in the -1.2° range. Most people will tell you that camber isn't adjustable on these cars, as the top strut mounts on the shock towers are riveted in place, but it's fairly standard practice - even the OEM shop manual mentions it - to drill out the two rivets, loosen the three bolts - to get some adjustment, even slotting the factory holes in the shock tower if needed to get the right range.

The top rubber strut mount bushing does look tired. I ordered some urethane replacements. When those come in, I'll jack it up, yank the wheel and after replacing those see if I can loosen the strut to spindle bolts and maybe get a bit of + camber adjustment out of the assembly before torqueing it back down. If that's not enough, I'll drill out the rivets, loosen the top plate and see if I can get some there.

I really don't want to install aftermarket CC (Caster / Camber) plates. Even the really good ones use spherical metal bearings and they just make more noise than I want in a daily driver that I'm not auto crossing etc.

That in mind, I ordered some camber bolts. For those who don't know, these are fairly common and usually fit a WIDE range of vehicles that don't come from the factory with much, if any, front camber adjustment. It's simply a replacement strut to spindle bolt that has a 'cam' built into the bolt which when installed in in certain orientation can either push the strut assembly out (+ camber) or in (- camber) a bit.
 
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Managed to get the urethane upper strut bushings installed between a weekend of work on the property. Still need to set my rig up and make sure TOE in isn't out of spec.

I took apart the alternator that was on my '04 GT When I bought it. It's a Ford stamped part. I had a feeling the brushes were going bad as now and again I'd get a flickering battery light. Ended up scoring a new in the box Motorcraft rebuilt for $100 on Ebay (still in the paper tape sealed box - it's legit) so I'm running that one, I figured I'd tear this one down and rebuild it - maybe even paint it while it was apart. If you have the time, it really is NOT hard to TOTALLY rebuild your alternator.

Most parts houses rebuilds - they only replace visible worn parts (like brushed inside the Voltage regulator) and they let everything else ride.

alternator1.JPEG

Three thru bolts, impact on the pulley nut, bearing tolerance ring, then work the cases apart and the get the components out. A small hammer can help 'persuade' it. On the Left in this picture - that's the rectifier - this is an aftermarket part - so this was likely a Motorcraft OE rebuild put in by the dealer many moons ago. In the middle - that's the rotor. Those copper pieces under the bearing? That's the slip ring. It's where the brushes inside the Voltage regulator ride. It's supposed to be smooth. Definitely grooved. You CAN replace the slip ring, but it involves cutting the metal 'humps' on the rotor and cutting the hard wire connection that connects the snap ring, then soldering a new slip ring in place. $20-30 for a good snap ring. You can replace the entire rotor for @ $50.

alternator2.JPEG


You can really see the wear on the slip ring here. Not good.

alternator3.JPEG


I'm holding the Voltage regulator. Especially in the Ford 6G style alternators MAKE SURE you match up the VR part #. They usually are referred to by color (Gray w/ gray, Gray w/ white etc). The brushes are inside the circle area of the VR. You can see they are considerably worn. New quality HD VR can be had for these for about $40-50. Add in good bearings, another $30. Some places offer rebuild kits with the various parts. You can test the rectifier as well with a multimeter.
 
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