Replacing a Micro-USB Charger Port? Altec Lansing Jacket H2O IMW448N-BLK-WM

[larry4406]

Hopefully this is in the correct forum.

I have an Altec Lansing Jacket H20 blue tooth speaker that the charge port has STB. I use this all the time.

By eye, there is a partial tab broken off inside the micro-USB port. The fit with the charge cord is very poor and no amount of tweaking the charge cord up, down, left, or right, will allow it to charge any more. The past several months I have coaxed it along by wrapping the cord around the unit a certain way to pull it taught to make continuity. I used a different new cord and, well it's dead Jim. Played just fine till it ran out of its last charge.

So, I need to replace the charge port, or buy a new speaker. I prefer the replacement option.

I dissembled the unit today. Ignore the black goo which appears to be RTV potting sealant. Here is the board where the charge port is.



As far as I can see, the micro-USB port is held in place by only 4 solder tabs. It "Appears" that the port has 5 "wipers" I will call them that just then engage the board traces.

Do I have a chance in hell of successfully replacing the port?

Device was probably $20 when I bought it umpteen years ago and now they are rather spendy. I can buy ports on E-bay for like $7-8.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253843161250

This picture shows the port with the 4 solder prongs and the 5 wipers.



I have a pencil style soldering iron, a desoldering iron, and a magnifying style bench light.

Do I have a chance in hell of a successful repair or is this a waste of time?

 

[The Cobbler]

I'd say it's doable as long as you can see what you're doing and don't get solder bridging . phone repair guys do it so you should be able to .
solder wick would help probably . adding some new solder to the old will help in removal too

 

[WildBill]

You are going to need to wick the solder out of the four mounting holes and get each leg completely free one at a time, then you can flood the leads (wipers) with one blob and lift it off. Then solder wick everything, clean with alcohol, and solder your new one in. I use a hot air soldering pen when I do USB connector repairs, but you can do it without, just takes longer. Those are great sounding little speakers, I have a couple and have fixed the USB port on one of them.

 

[larry4406]

I'd say it's doable as long as you can see what you're doing and don't get solder bridging . phone repair guys do it so you should be able to .
solder wick would help probably . adding some new solder to the old will help in removal too

I had to look a desoldering wick up. I can see where that would be handy.

When I replaced failed capacitors on a Mitsubishi projection TV circuit board ~15 years ago I just used the desoldering iron which has the suction bulb that pulled it out likety-split leaving a perfectly clean tinned hole.

Your going to need to wick the solder out of the four mounting holes and get each leg completely free one at a time, then you can flood the leads (wipers) with one blob and lift it off. Then solder wick everything, clean with alcohol, and solder your new one in. I use a hot air soldering pen when I do USB connector repairs, but you can do it without, just takes longer. Those are great sounding little speakers, I have a couple and have fixed the USB port on one of them.

What does this mean? Are the leads (wipers) individually soldered to the board traces or just in spring tension with the board traces? I was assuming spring tension.

Isopropyl alcohol for cleaning? I have 70% if I recall.

I am dumb on hot air soldering pens. Recommendations for an entry level one (say less than $50)? I am ok on buying a tool I might use again for another project.

Agreed on the sound! I love this thing!

 

[BillK]

I replaced one in a laptop for a friend a few months ago. Was pretty easy but I spend 15 years as an electronics tech and still do it as a hobby so I have the correct equipment. If you have the experience then its not a hard job.

 

[WildBill]

The leads are individually soldered. To remove you can just flood all of them at once, easiest way if you don't have a lot of experience. They will need soldered back one at a time. If you have a desoldering gun with the bulb it would help with the four mechanical attachment legs, but you will probably still need solder wick, as the bulbs don't work great on that type of connector.

70% is fine.

There are about a million versions of these hot air guns with different labels, but they seem to be ok usually and for $37 you won't be hurting too bad if it only lasts 5-10 uses.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Rework-Station-Desoldering-Nozzles/dp/B08GC3HXCM?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[larry4406]

The leads are individually soldered. To remove you can just flood all of them at once, easiest way if you don't have a lot of experience. They will need soldered back one at a time. If you have a desoldering gun with the bulb it would help with the four mechanical attachment legs, but you will probably still need solder wick, as the bulbs don't work great on that type of connector.

70% is fine.

There are about a million versions of these hot air guns with different labels, but they seem to be ok usually and for $37 you won't be hurting too bad if it only lasts 5-10 uses.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Rework-Station-Desoldering-Nozzles/dp/B08GC3HXCM?tag=atomicindus08-20

How are the individual leads soldered back one by one? That looks like a PIA!

Any desoldering wick you recommend?

 

[WildBill]

https://www.amazon.com/CHEMTRONICS-80-3-5-BRAID-DESOLDERING-ROSIN/dp/B00DJVY1PW/141-9071254-4990738?tag=atomicindus08-20

You can kinda solder the leads at once and then clean it up with the wick and IPA, but you will need to check carefully for any shorts and that they are still soldered OK afterwards. Ideally you would use a tiny soldering tip and small solder and do them one at a time.

Something like this for solder or even a smaller diameter.

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Leaded-Solder-Diameter/dp/B00425DZGK/141-9071254-4990738?tag=atomicindus08-20

Also while doing any of this remember those pads the leads sit on and solder to are pretty delicate, so if you heat them too much or put too much force on them you can rip the pads off the circuit board. So no prying the thing up and make sure the four mechanical attachment legs are completely free before trying to pull it off.

If you use hot air its a little tricky to get the four mechanical legs and the leads all melted at once without cooking anything, the four mounting legs need the most heat, if they are melted the leads probably are too but it might actually be safer to get them free and wicked clean before doing the leads.

 

[mm08822]

I was going to recommend the solder sucker/pump. I've have good luck using mine. Hopefully you still have yours.

I would resolder one at a time.

 

[welder4956]

I have pretty much the same issue with the charging port on my Samsung phone. I was able to pickup a repair kit on Amazon that includes tools, instructions and the charging port board for $12.99. I haven't installed it yet, but hope to learn some tips from this thread.

 

[larry4406]

I have pretty much the same issue with the charging port on my Samsung phone. I was able to pickup a repair kit on Amazon that includes tools, instructions and the charging port board for $12.99. I haven't installed it yet, but hope to learn some tips from this thread.

How about you go first and I watch you!

 

[larry4406]

This guy sure makes it look easy!

 

[djbmw]

How about you go first and I watch you!

The best way to accomplish this, without destroying the traces or pads, is with hot air lile in the video above. A hot air station can be bought for ~$35 usd. You just have to watch your heat and ensure you dont melt other stuff.

Im sure you could also poke and prod it with an iron and wick though... but that would not be my first choice.

 

[manwithtools]

Larry, it looks like you can buy a new speaker on Ebay for less than $50. In the end that might be the easy solution to this issue.

 

[LXCam]

Larry, it looks like you can buy a new speaker on Ebay for less than $50. In the end that might be the easy solution to this issue.

Blasphemy!!

Come on Dan, that’s not the GJ way. Unless Larry drops a couple hundred on tools and spends at least an hour of frustration on this, it’s a worthless project.

Btw, the hour of frustration should not be discouraged. It builds character

 

[mm08822]

Btw, the hour of frustration should not be discouraged. It builds character

And increases vocabulary usage ....... whether bad or made up.

The hot air method seems better for stripping boards than doing a focused component replacement. IMO.

 

[manwithtools]

Come on Dan, that’s not the GJ way. Unless Larry drops a couple hundred on tools and spends at least an hour of frustration on this, it’s a worthless project.

You are so correct! I should ban myself for a couple of days for this infraction

@larry4406 Ignore my suggestion to buy a new speaker, just be sure to share how many Miller Lite's it takes to complete this worthwhile project.

 

[LXCam]

You are so correct! I should ban myself for a couple of days for this infraction

The ban is unnecessary. But you do need to say three Hail Mary’s and sit and face the corner of your shop for an hour.

 

[larry4406]

Honestly, I am leaning towards buying a new speaker and being done with it.

Walmart has a new model Altec Lansing speaker on sale at $29.

I have too many other projects going on right now, especially the master bath project!

 

[mike93lx]

Honestly, I am leaning towards buying a new speaker and being done with it.

Walmart has a new model Altec Lansing speaker on sale at $29.

I have too many other projects going on right now, especially the master bath project!

I'd replace it as well. Many people can solder those ultra small connectors, but I'm not one of them and I bet you'll spend as much on the tools and supplies as the new speaker. Plus micro USB is absolutely terrible and needs to be gotten rid of

I have one of these and it's quite OK

This waterproof, 24-hour playtime speaker delivers powerful 12W stereo sound with enhanced bass - perfect for home, outdoor adventures, and more. Others are loving it! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTB55WH?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Innovate1]

You are going to have trouble getting all the solder points melted without overheating somewhere to get them all at loose at once. I would have the same trouble and have done a little of this. The desoldering with wick or suction often leaves some solder where the pin is touching the barrel of the hole - wiggling the pin helps by getting clearance all around but I don't see that happening with the thicker mounting pins. I think I would take a dremel to the housing to cut each of the mounting pins loose from the main part. Then desolder the signal pins however you choose to do that - the solder ball over all of them is what I would try. You might also be able to do one at a time and lift them with a dental pick. That will free the main part and get it out of the way. Then you can pull the housing pins one at a time. Clean up the holes and pads and mount the new connector.

Is your soldering iron temp controlled? That really helps to not overheat things.

 

[larry4406]

You are going to have trouble getting all the solder points melted without overheating somewhere to get them all at loose at once. I would have the same trouble and have done a little of this. The desoldering with wick or suction often leaves some solder where the pin is touching the barrel of the hole - wiggling the pin helps by getting clearance all around but I don't see that happening with the thicker mounting pins. I think I would take a dremel to the housing to cut each of the mounting pins loose from the main part. Then desolder the signal pins however you choose to do that - the solder ball over all of them is what I would try. You might also be able to do one at a time and lift them with a dental pick. That will free the main part and get it out of the way. Then you can pull the housing pins one at a time. Clean up the holes and pads and mount the new connector.

Is your soldering iron temp controlled? That really helps to not overheat things.

Pencil soldering iron is old school. Just a plug.

 

[mm08822]

Honestly, I am leaning towards buying a new speaker and being done with it.

Walmart has a new model Altec Lansing speaker on sale at $29.

I have too many other projects going on right now, especially the master bath project!

That bathroom is important........Larry needs morning speed to change from this

to this

so he can tackle the day with his best face on.

 

[The Cobbler]

I have too many other projects going on right now,

I am a slow learner , I would put it in a round to it pile... that's the pile of **** that I will get a round to someday... maybe!

 

[gba2331]

Honestly, I am leaning towards buying a new speaker and being done with it.

The technical name for these types of projects is "can vs should". I can repair it but I should just buy a new one.

i hate giving up on a relatively simple project, but then I overheat the connectors and after spending 30 minutes the dang thing doesn’t work anyway. Some things aren‘t worth the fight.

 

[larry4406]

I am picking up a new Altec Lansing speaker this morning at Wally World. Was $29 sale from $49. Can't even buy a cheap hot air machine for that.

Will toss the old one in the bin.

Thanks all.

 

[cmandp]

I threw out an (admittedly cheaper) LED table light that melted the charge board somehow.

I really wanted to use it to practice repairing something like that but just didnt have the time. I dont like how something simple goes wrong on thing like this and they are basically e-waste. But thats how it is.

I think you'll be happy with your decision. You now have a working speaker that will hopefully last just as long.

 

[dave*99]

If you have a heat gun, stage to hold the PCB, 10-30X stereo microscope, boom for microscope, Illuminator for microscope, proper flux or solder paste, fine tweezers, steady hands and some practice, these repairs are easy.

 

[mike93lx]

If you have a heat gun, stage to hold the PCB, 10-30X stereo microscope, boom for microscope, Illuminator for microscope, proper flux or solder paste, fine tweezers, steady hands and some practice, these repairs are easy.

Well ****, that's all? I thought it would be difficult.

 

[mm08822]

If you have a heat gun, stage to hold the PCB, 10-30X stereo microscope, boom for microscope, Illuminator for microscope, proper flux or solder paste, fine tweezers, steady hands and some practice, these repairs are easy.

Where's Radio Shack when you need them?