Oue Scientific Products "relay" isn't working, any suggestions?
- Thread starter Sonni
- Start date
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
Any identifying marks or diagram on the relay? Possibly post pictures and someone wll be able to identify it.
Appreciate the suggestion, However, there are no identifying marks nor diagram. Locally any of the "garage door" companies won't even come out to look at this "relic". They do not want the liability exposure associated with a "non-compliant" garage door operating system. However they will gladly give me a quote to install a "new" garage door operating system along with a "new" garage door. The door is 16'x7' steel door, very heavy and will not warranty the new system.
As fdorthe relay, an electrical supply house suggested a SPDT relay, which worked in one direction, but in order to reverse it, I had to switch two (2) of the leads. This was not a good solution. Another wiring suggestion, worked in both directions, but it would not stop. It would close the door and when it hit its own limit switch, it immediately reversed itself and kept doing that till I removed the power going to the operator. Sad to see it go after all these years. I've been in this home since 1954 and at that time the unit was 8 years old. They till me that any of the "new" operators may last 5 to possibly 10 years. The durability and quality are all but lost these days. Thank you again for your input.
Adaylate
Well-known member
Does your town have an electric motor repair shop?
If so they may be able to help with the relay repair.
Good luck!
If so they may be able to help with the relay repair.
Good luck!
BillK
Well-known member
Post a picture of the relay. You might be surprised as to how easy it might be to identify it.
As far as the new system goes the door you have cant be any heavier than the 40 year old solid wood door on my detached garage and if the springs are adjusted properly any opener should be able to lift it. My 16x7 door does not have an opener but my Wife can easily open it by hand because the springs are adjusted properly.
As far as the new system goes the door you have cant be any heavier than the 40 year old solid wood door on my detached garage and if the springs are adjusted properly any opener should be able to lift it. My 16x7 door does not have an opener but my Wife can easily open it by hand because the springs are adjusted properly.
rooster59
Well-known member
Make sure you have a kit that strings aircraft cable inside the springs if they’re old style linear springs. A spring shattered and just about killed my dad years ago.
I doesn't make "common" sense that a new door is necessary. Since our operator is "unhooked" from the garage door, I can easily lift up/open and pull down/close our garage door. But I'vebeen told by several garage door installers that "everything" old must be replaced and that attaching a "new" garage door opener to our original garage door would void the factory warranty. I'm quite sure that the "new" units will not last 80 years like my present system, 5 year warranty on the motor, lifetime on the chain rail, 1 year on the logic board, accessories, camera, built-in light, remote, and 1 year labor. *Warranties active with purchasing home-owner only.
Appreciate your thoughts and will post the relay.
Thank you...
Attachments
We replace the springs two (2) years ago, the original header bar broke in half, happened at night. Missed the car by inches. Thank you for your suggestions. It is a wise move to replace those "old" style springs.
Thank you
Post some better pictures of the contact arrangement. And also the coil wiring. I think it's a just a single pole double throw relay. It might be mechanically held though, that will be a little tougher.
Need to figure out coil voltage and I hope you labeled those wires before you cut them.
Need to figure out coil voltage and I hope you labeled those wires before you cut them.
Innovate1
Well-known member
Unlikely you will find exactly the same relay but getting one that is equivalent should be pretty easy once you know coil voltage and contact arrangement. I see a transformer - what is the output voltage of the transformer or make/model to look that up? The coil is marked 5VAC but that seems like a strange voltage so maybe it is a part code or something else. I also see a toggle switch - is that a limit switch? Tracing out the wiring would help - any wiring diagram on the unit?
Transformer is 24 volts AC, you're correct about the latching. I thought I had success, but crossed a wire and smoked the new Siemens relay.
Considering (my) age and my unit, the time I wasted on trying to keep it going was a waste.
Trying to keep it going for how much longer"???
Conclusion: new garage door and opener.
Can't buy time.
Thank you
PS Yes, I did label all the wires.
No wiring diagram or any markings.
The trolley track has a mechanical tab that moves a control box mounted toggle switch from up or down.
Appreciate your help and input.
At this point I'm looking for someone who apparently collects this among other relic openers.
The trolley track has a mechanical tab that moves a control box mounted toggle switch from up or down.
Appreciate your help and input.
At this point I'm looking for someone who apparently collects this among other relic openers.
Innovate1
Well-known member
Are you looking to repair it and figure someone who is familiar with old openers would have information on the relay or are you looking for someone who collects them to take it off your hands? Your posts seem to be a mix of both... If you are wanting to give it away it would help if you let people know where you are located.
Originally I was hoping to repair/replace the relay. That is not going to happen. Thus I am looking for someone that collects relic/antique garage openers.
I'm located in Buffalo, NY. This is where these units originated from. It was sought after by the affluent of the day.
Thank you
driftpin
Well-known member
Could you add that below your screen name initial, 'S?' That makes it easier on someone who may be thinking of taking that off your hands.
Thank you
pima67
Well-known member
I had 2 LM openers (first installed in 2006 that died)' replaced in the last couple of years. Didn't need new doors for either. So I would call BS for needing new doors. Is the company based in Nigeria?
kbuhagiar
Well-known member
TOTAL bs on needing new garage doors
I'm getting several quotes. One was saying that he can use the original door. It's balanced and works well even opening and closing by hand.
matt_i
Well-known member
The relay can only be for one thing, start/stop/reverse the motor. Need to understand the control logic (aka wiring diagram) before you can fix it. If you don't have one, an interconnect diagram can be made for those who are patient. There is not a lot there, two limit switches and a "go" button.
I don't understand cutting out the wiring of the relay when there are solder joints....going with a modern opener that someone else can fix seems like its leading to the correct choice.
I don't understand cutting out the wiring of the relay when there are solder joints....going with a modern opener that someone else can fix seems like its leading to the correct choice.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Anyone saying you need new doors should be shown the door
nadogail
Well-known member
I have encountered several instances of when someone butchered a relay by “Adjusting The Contacts” with needle nosed pliers.
I saw this most frequently on old equipment often of foreign manufacturer.
Sometimes I needed to reverse engineer the product and substitute a domestic relay.
I became fond of Ice Cube relays that plugged into octal sockets.
They showed themselves to be very good and easily accessible.
One machine was 50 years old and of Swiss manufacturer. The coil voltage was something like 36 volts AC, I added bridge rectifiers and dropping resistors to get the voltage I desired.
I saw this most frequently on old equipment often of foreign manufacturer.
Sometimes I needed to reverse engineer the product and substitute a domestic relay.
I became fond of Ice Cube relays that plugged into octal sockets.
They showed themselves to be very good and easily accessible.
One machine was 50 years old and of Swiss manufacturer. The coil voltage was something like 36 volts AC, I added bridge rectifiers and dropping resistors to get the voltage I desired.