Buckeye Hill Shop Build

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Well things are getting real again on Buckeye Hill.

Tuesday I obtained my building permit for this summers project.

40x64x16 Pole building
18x14 Insulated OH door & 12x12 Insulated OH door
Small porch area 8x12
5" slab - 2" Insulation under & around edges, 4-6" of 57's base
Roof w/ drip stop on panels
House Wrap under steel

Insulation will be done after construction is done, Batt in walls & blown in above ceiling.
3/4" plywood for 8' then white VB above
Ceiling will be the Stars & Bars (AKA American Flag)
100 amp service

DIYPoleBarns.com kit, yes doing this one myself with some grunt help a few days.

Should order the kit next week, then roughly 4 weeks to get site prep done before materials are delivered.

 

[Buckaroo5]

Sounds like a fun project, one that I would like to do someday. Keep us posted with progress and pics. Are you doing site prep and electrical yourself or farming that out? Are you renting equipment (i.e. skid steer, excavator, etc) or do you already own it? Interested in why you are choosing diypolebarns.com vs materials from say, a Menard's kit. Also, how much money do you think you are going to save doing it yourself?

 

[jack stand]

Busy summer in store for you!
I hope you can stand the excitement!
You don't strike me as one who hasn't put a lot of thought into this already.... but...
Unless you have some very wide and tall farm equipment, I'd go with 2 12x14h doors. Any road legal trucks/trailer will fit right in.
Another item if you can swing it, used or 2nds foam sheets are cheap compared to new retail. You might have some Amish around you that sells it. Ripping to width and shoving it in between the metal and wrap horizontally in between the wall girts as you install the metal will wildly assist any "normal" fiberglass insulation that you might put inside later.
Looks like a great building! Have fun.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Sounds like a fun project, one that I would like to do someday. Keep us posted with progress and pics. Are you doing site prep and electrical yourself or farming that out? Are you renting equipment (i.e. skid steer, excavator, etc) or do you already own it? Interested in why you are choosing diypolebarns.com vs materials from say, a Menard's kit. Also, how much money do you think you are going to save doing it yourself?

I had a couple builders quote it erected and 60% - 80% cheaper to build myself.
I will sub out the concrete & OH door installation.

Only thing I need to rent is an auger for the post holes & Telehandler for the truss’s & roofing. Have access to a bobcat that all I have to do is buy some Busch Light

I will start site prep as soon as things dry out a bit. Own equipment for all this work. Tractor, box blade, dump truck, backhoe, site is pretty flat so not a lot of dirt work required.

Electrical will be done by me also, have not decided if I will use the backhoe to trench it in or renting a trencher.

I have heard horror stories about the Menards kits. No personal experience, I did not get them to quote.

Package I’m going with is not the cheapest quote I have but the most complete & easiest to deal with by far. Helps their salesman is a good personal friend.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Busy summer in store for you!
I hope you can stand the excitement!
You don't strike me as one who hasn't put a lot of thought into this already.... but...
Unless you have some very wide and tall farm equipment, I'd go with 2 12x14h doors. Any road legal trucks/trailer will fit right in.
Another item if you can swing it, used or 2nds foam sheets are cheap compared to new retail. You might have some Amish around you that sells it. Ripping to width and shoving it in between the metal and wrap horizontally in between the wall girts as you install the metal will wildly assist any "normal" fiberglass insulation that you might put inside later.
Looks like a great building! Have fun.

Total farm country here, while I don’t farm I know the wide door will add value down the road.

I will look at the insulation sheets closer once I get to that point. I have a wholesaler local to me that is MUCH better priced than the big box stores.

 

[Buckaroo5]

Package I’m going with is not the cheapest quote I have but the most complete & easiest to deal with by far. Helps their salesman is a good personal friend.

Are they still in Arcanum, OH? Did you do your planning over the phone/on-line or did you go down there?

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Are they still in Arcanum, OH? Did you do your planning over the phone/on-line or did you go down there?

They are still in Arcanum

They hired a good buddy of mine up here in southern Michigan. So I have had a personal experience with him doing all the design / quoting. I had most of it planned before we met up, other than what the Building inspector wanted changed, we changed very little during the design process.

Unfortunately I have some slower than expected funds coming, won't be ordering until April. (I'm a commissioned guy)

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Funds secured, kit being ordered Thursday.
Bonus wife's cousin offered use of his Bobcat, Auger & Trencher for the project.

Now I'm looking at boom lifts to purchase, between this project and painting our house next summer, I may just need to buy something. Its the GJ way right

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Building package ordered & Paid for.
Now Mother nature just needs to turn off the spigot for the spring, or atleast to a trickle. Wettest beginning of spring (6 week span April - Mid March 10.4") in history here.

I was unsuccessful at buying an articulated boom lift yesterday, via online auction. Winning bid was one bid above my max.
Hoping to get one bought before shop starts to go up.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Just added this tool to my arsenal

Needs batteries but should make life easier

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Located a trailer to haul it, bonus is it’s only 5 miles from the house.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Picked up yesterday, threw new batteries in it and all functions seam to work. HAPPY GUY HERE!!!


Stored at my parents farm until I need to use it.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Watching with great interest...good luck!

 

[39Tudor]

I’ll be following along!

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

I have a scheduled delivery date June 3rd.

I just need to get a driveway installed before then.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Delivery date has been scheduled 6/3

Time to get the driveway put in.
Removed the sod yesterday, will fine tune the grading some today. Drive is over where an old house once was, so has a crown in the middle which I shaved down some but will still be higher in the center once complete. Guess that’s good for drainage.

Drive is 100’ deep from road & 50’ wide.
It will get wider for parking my trailers. But need this part completed for delivery.



I found the old septic tank from the house while grading. Going to have to fill it with stone as will be under the driveway where trailers will be parked / accessed.

 

[jack stand]

I wonder if you should jack hammer the top first. Filling every void through that hole will be "sketchy".
I think typically you'd fill it with what I've heard called grout. A flowable concrete. Of course another cost.
Sending some small aggregate into the bottom then letting what you hammer apart fall into it might give you the best results short of a couple-3 of yards of grout.
You might call the local concrete plant for a suggestion for the least costly product for this before you decide.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

I wonder if you should jack hammer the top first. Filling every void through that hole will be "sketchy".
I think typically you'd fill it with what I've heard called grout. A flowable concrete. Of course another cost.
Sending some small aggregate into the bottom then letting what you hammer apart fall into it might give you the best results short of a couple-3 of yards of grout.
You might call the local concrete plant for a suggestion for the least costly product for this before you decide.

The plan currently is - demo the top and fill with compacted gravel &/or crushed concrete recycle.

Of course I will get it pumped out first. It looks to be in pretty good shape. Still holding fluids at the correct level.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Sod & top soil all removed from driveway & building site.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Start hauling recycled / crushed concrete in the morning. Filling up the dump truck was expensive with diesel these days but sure beats paying hauling fees.

“Earl” will get his first haul in the morning under new ownership.

 

[VietGnome]

Waiting for my permits to come back on my summer project. You are hopefully about a month ahead of me.

Looking forward to follow

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

4 loads so far, takes about an hour round trip.

 

[jack stand]

What can you gross in OH with a tri axle?
That's a long looking body!

 

[larry4406]

At the day job, the Health department requires us to pump out old septic tanks, apply lime, and crush in place. We have to send in pictures and a copy of the pump out manifest.

They don’t want it hauled off site. Guessing it’s considered hazardous? I don’t recall the lime dosage rate. I recall it being powdered lime. Not sure what the lime does but guessing it kills bugs and microbes.

One in my backyard we filled with #57 blue stone as part of the demo and zero yard settling 12+ years later.

Delivery date has been scheduled 6/3

Time to get the driveway put in.
Removed the sod yesterday, will fine tune the grading some today. Drive is over where an old house once was, so has a crown in the middle which I shaved down some but will still be higher in the center once complete. Guess that’s good for drainage.

Drive is 100’ deep from road & 50’ wide.
It will get wider for parking my trailers. But need this part completed for delivery.



I found the old septic tank from the house while grading. Going to have to fill it with stone as will be under the driveway where trailers will be parked / accessed.

The plan currently is - demo the top and fill with compacted gravel &/or crushed concrete recycle.

Of course I will get it pumped out first. It looks to be in pretty good shape. Still holding fluids at the correct level.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

What can you gross in OH with a tri axle?
That's a long looking body!

We are hauling 16 ton loads. I believe gross is 58K.

He definitely will fit ALOT more than that.

Drive base is almost done, one more load was hauled after this picture. 6 total for the day.

Hopefully 6 more tomorrow.

Thinking I will need around 16 total loads.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

200 tons hauled yesterday & today about 1/2 spread out.

Building materials delivery @ 5am tomorrow

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

At the day job, the Health department requires us to pump out old septic tanks, apply lime, and crush in place. We have to send in pictures and a copy of the pump out manifest.

They don’t want it hauled off site. Guessing it’s considered hazardous? I don’t recall the lime dosage rate. I recall it being powdered lime. Not sure what the lime does but guessing it kills bugs and microbes.

One in my backyard we filled with #57 blue stone as part of the demo and zero yard settling 12+ years later.

This will be a quietly demo’d project. I used to be in the septic industry years ago, It will handled it properly. Just “off the books”

 

[larry4406]

This will be a quietly demo’d project. I used to be in the septic industry years ago, It will handled it properly. Just “off the books”

Septic is a ****** business.

Kudos for proper methods vs full disclosure. Understood.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Beautiful morning for a delivery!

 

[jblnut]

Looks like an awesome build coming up !!

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

How are you guys installing baffles for vented soffits?

I’m thinking this approach, eventually I will install blown in insulation above my ceiling.



Want to frame this up before ceiling is installed (obviously)

 

[TurnipTruck]

Unless you like icicles, you want the most insulation you can get in that area, but still have ventilation.

these are what I used:


then foam the gaps at the top of the wall.
Here is my shop:

I later blew in R80

 

[jack stand]

You might want to add an extra purlin somewhere in line with the top plate. This will normally give you at least 2 points to staple the baffles to. You might catch another one depending on your purlin layout.
The Styrofoam baffles are pretty flimsy when it comes to the wind (with no insulation) and having it securely fastened well might keep you from chasing them around those fields. It might be a while before you get the ceiling and insulation in.
In my building they installed a 4' "batt" of whatever 10" depth is from the exterior inwards the length of the batt. Now I had installed "strapping" across the bottom of the trusses to run my ceiling the same orientation as the trusses. I used 1x4 @ 16" centers.
It wouldn't be the worst thing to install these on a ladder just prior to the blow in. I also had them drop 10" batt down from the top prior to the blow in. It's usually an equal cost to buy it all as an insulation contractor would charge you. Sometimes less!

 

[larry4406]

You need insulation fully on top of the wall, so the baffle goes to the exterior side of the wall.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

You need insulation fully on top of the wall, so the baffle goes to the exterior side of the wall.

I could put the 2x4's between the trusses and take the house wrap to the exterior wall. Allowing the insulation to be blown clear to there, albeit not at full depth.
Top Cord is a 2x6 flush with the bottom would then give me 3" of air gap above the insulation / barrier. Centered would be similar to the space from the foam baffles.

I have used those foam baffles but only in a 24" spaced truss, and was not much of a fan.
I also think the house wrap would hold up better and not be so damn flimsy during construction.

 

[larry4406]

At the day job, we have a house type with 3/12 pitch morning room roof.

We baffle and spray foam the roof for a certain distance than transition to batts or blow.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

At the day job, we have a house type with 3/12 pitch morning room roof.

We baffle and spray foam the roof for a certain distance than transition to batts or blow.

This is a shop and will be heated while working in it only.
Not looking for it to be perfectly build for energy efficency.

I understand sealing it up and maximizing what you got. Most shops around here and many I have worked in have Zero insulation & a heater to take the chill off.

I have NO code here for a shop insulation envelope to meet.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Rough grade / fill done for shop, now we don’t have to frame in the dirt &/or mud.