Champion R15B Air Compressor Rebuild Info, Photos, Tips (Long)

[1fast4door]

I am about to throw a "Tune-up kit" at one of these, otherwise know as a minor overhaul. basically just a top end rebuild, valves, piston rings, valve gaskets. For the guys that have been here before do you hone the cylinder? I was going to buy a couple ball hones to help the rings seal. Anyone have a recommendation one way or the other on that?

Thanks in advance
George

 

[elaskowski]

I'm rebuilding an R-15A, the (shim gaskets) gasket between the crankcase and the governor housing is leaking. Did I read Kevski correctly that the bearing end play should be .002 or less? I haven't found this spec anywhere else and just wanted to double check. Also, I forgot to mark the orientation of the governor spindle (which holds the governor weights) relative to the crankshaft position before I removed the bolt holding the governor spindle to the crankshaft. Is the governor weights/spindle position relative to the crankshaft critical or is everything balanced and the spindle and weights orientation doesn't matter? Any info is much appreciated.

Thanks!

Eric

 

[Low50s]

I want to bring this back from the dead because I have a question how much play is acceptable for a low pressure connecting rod ? High pressure side seems tight but I do have play in low pressure side and I just don’t want it failing after I overhaul it

 

[MarkSCagleSr]

I’ve been looking at motors for another R15 project . Leaning towards a Baldor 5 hp . Anything I should know before buying one ? Have had really good luck with Lesson in the past but .... I think I want to get a Baldor .

 

[jbfrancis3]

Nothing to know other than my Baldor works great. Here's what I bought:
5 HP single phase
184T Frame
# L1430T
230 volt

I paid $360 shipped from CompressorSource on ebay.

 

[bastage]

-The compressor outlet/discharge fitting uses an unusual thread, 1”-18. This is sized for a ¾ tube flare nut. If you want to use something different (such as a stainless flex hose as I do), you’ll need a ¾ tube compression fitting (McMaster 5220K84). Remove and discard the compression nut, and thread that end into the compressor outlet. The other end is ¾ npt.

I have several of these pumps and was in need of making a new discharge pipe. The existing threads of the discharge manifold and compression nut is 1"-16 TPI. not 1"-18 . It is a real oddball size to find. I believe I read that it is solely a Champion specification. The Champion part number for the nut is SE541. The 3/4" OD copper tube slips through it and uses a compression sleeve or ferrule to seal against manifold seat. I have tried 1"-18 and only turns maybe 1 turn before it starts to cross. I am still in the process for a good solution but in the meantime, the Champion SE541 nut will do. They cost about $7.

I had read the complete thread including Erik's response saying that Kevski was wrong here about the threads, but as there was no other info one way or the other I went ahead & ordered McMaster 5220K84 & can confirm that this absolutely does not fit.

 

[tonyis]

Bringing this old but good thread back to the top.

I recently picked up an old R15 compressor. It looks like the previous owner tried to do some work on it himself, but gave up halfway through (bought it from his father). Then it was put outside for a few days with the manifolds off before I bought it. I think he was trying to service the valves. One of the valves looks new, two of them are fouled with a lot of carbon build up and oil, and the fourth valve has surface rust from being out in the elements for a few days.

I'm going to buy a service kit to replace the gaskets and pistons rings. I'm not sure if I need to replace the valves or if I can just rebuild them. So my question is, how common is it for the "valve bodies" to go bad and need full replacement?

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Bringing this old but good thread back to the top.

I recently picked up an old R15 compressor. It looks like the previous owner tried to do some work on it himself, but gave up halfway through (bought it from his father). Then it was put outside for a few days with the manifolds off before I bought it. I think he was trying to service the valves. One of the valves looks new, two of them are fouled with a lot of carbon build up and oil, and the fourth valve has surface rust from being out in the elements for a few days.

I'm going to buy a service kit to replace the gaskets and pistons rings. I'm not sure if I need to replace the valves or if I can just rebuild them. So my question is, how common is it for the "valve bodies" to go bad and need full replacement?

Pretty rare. There's usually enough meat in them that they could get cleaned up and lapped back to good shape. Champion valves are a bit on the small side though. Bead blasting is best. Otherwise a good chemical soak and wire brushing. Get a good flat surface and put a sheet of wet and dry down and lap them in a figure 8 so that the seat is a nice even bright colour all the way round. Reassemble them and fill them with solvent or a very light oil. If it runs out, you have more work to do. If it holds the solvent, it's ready to run.

 

[tonyis]

Pretty rare. There's usually enough meat in them that they could get cleaned up and lapped back to good shape. Champion valves are a bit on the small side though. Bead blasting is best. Otherwise a good chemical soak and wire brushing. Get a good flat surface and put a sheet of wet and dry down and lap them in a figure 8 so that the seat is a nice even bright colour all the way round. Reassemble them and fill them with solvent or a very light oil. If it runs out, you have more work to do. If it holds the solvent, it's ready to run.

Thanks, that's great info

 

[metalmagpie]

I also had noticed that kevski called out 1-18 threads on Champion compression nuts designed for 3/4" OD copper tubing. I have one sitting in front of me - the thread is 1-16. The McMaster part he cited is wrong. I'm dead certain about this and can provide detailed photos if necessary. I just wanted to get this on the record.

The only real way to attach 3/4" OD copper tubing (not the same as 3/4" copper pipe from the box store which is 7/8" OD) to a Champion air pump is to use a compression nut made by Champion. Their part number for that compression nut is SE541. Gardner Denver and Speedaire also use that part number which in my book proves that some of their models were built by Champion. Once you've done that, though, you can use conventional fittings on the other end of the copper tube.

I am looking for a source that will sell 3/4" OD .063" wall soft copper tubing by the foot if anyone knows of one. Otherwise I'll have to resort to scrounging from commercial HVAC guys who reportedly use that stuff all the time and are thus likely to have drops available.

metalmagpie

 

[Hohn]

Bumping this superb thread that I'm using for reference as I attempt to get my Champion 5hp 80 gallon back into service. It has the R15B pump.

I'm posting just because this picture caught my attention:



It shows the McMaster fitting adapting the outlet of the compressor to pipe. But please note how thin are the walls of that port. And that you do NOT want a large amount of heavy and rigid pipe wagging while hanging off that pump discharge. This is a pretty big deal because it could cause the pump to crack in the main casting of the pump head. I think those parts are available as P12303B, but at over $120 for a small casting, that's not cheap.

I wanted to thank OP for an epic thread of Champion R15b knowledge that is superbly useful to my present project. Easily the most useful collection of R15b knowledge on the internet.

 

[Hohn]

I also had noticed that kevski called out 1-18 threads on Champion compression nuts designed for 3/4" OD copper tubing. I have one sitting in front of me - the thread is 1-16. The McMaster part he cited is wrong. I'm dead certain about this and can provide detailed photos if necessary. I just wanted to get this on the record.

The only real way to attach 3/4" OD copper tubing (not the same as 3/4" copper pipe from the box store which is 7/8" OD) to a Champion air pump is to use a compression nut made by Champion. Their part number for that compression nut is SE541. Gardner Denver and Speedaire also use that part number which in my book proves that some of their models were built by Champion. Once you've done that, though, you can use conventional fittings on the other end of the copper tube.

I am looking for a source that will sell 3/4" OD .063" wall soft copper tubing by the foot if anyone knows of one. Otherwise I'll have to resort to scrounging from commercial HVAC guys who reportedly use that stuff all the time and are thus likely to have drops available.

metalmagpie

I just measured the threads on my R15’s discharge pipe tube nut and I can confirm 16tpi thread. The McMaster part cannot work properly.

So if you’re like me and trying to find a way to divert the pump discharge to a cooler or such before hitting the tank, it’s sort of square one now. The easiest option is probably just buying the Champion parts (nut, ferrule, tube) and cutting the tube short and then using a regular 3/4 compression fitting to transition to whatever else it is you want to plumb.

I think some high temp PTFE hose (100r14a) is probably a good options to have a flex hose option that can handle the heat. The hose I’m familiar with is good to 260C, which should cover every discharge pressure this pump can do.