Building a router table, need advise please.

[signcrafter]

I searched for router table and looked thru the first 3 pages of results and didn't see much about router table builds. I do a lot of construction and some woodworking here and there but took 4 years of it back in high school. I've been getting into more and more custom projects in residential kitchens and restaurants and it's time to build a real router table. Moved into a new house a while back and still setting up the shop but want to get into more wood projects when I get everything sorted out and have some time. Years ago I was going to build a router table and did a lot of planning but never got around to it. Don't remember much and I'm sure lots have changed in 15 or so years since then. Most of my stuff is portable because I need to be able to use it at jobsites and because I do a little of everything so have tools for auto repair, welding/metal, woodworking, and construction so 1200 sq ft gets filled up quick with tools and materials. I have a bunch of routers I've bought over the years but for the most part I just use a porter cable 2 1/4HP with plunge and fixed bases and have a few trim routers that do most of what I need, loving the m18 router. But I have 1 or 2 bigger 3.xxHP routers that are at least 15 years old and I haven't used in a longtime. Not sure if one of them would be good in the table or if I need to pick up a new router, which I'm not against.

I was asked today if I wanted to make some kitchen doors for a house I've been doing a bunch of work in. Guess she had a company quote her 900 per door for some oak raised panels, no matter what size the door is. It's been a good while since I've done raised panel doors but I have experience so told her I would look into it and get her a price. Figured this might be a good time to build a router table and fit it out with all the bells and whistles.

Anyone have pictures of theirs or links of router tables to get some ideas? Any nice features that are a must when building one? I haven't decided if I want to make this somewhat portable, as in not a full height cabinet, so I can take it to restaurant remodels and other jobs when doing custom stuff and just set it on a table or make a base for it. Or make it a shop fixture on wheels to store it out of the way. I do have an enclosed trailer to take it to jobs if needed but a "table top" type would be more convenient so still deciding which way I want to go.

Once I decide on that I need to decide on size and material for the top and get a lift plate, any suggestions on what's out there these days? I have T track already and I bought this fence a few years back, https://www.rockler.com/rockler-router-table-fence-and-guard. But not against making or buying a different one. Think that's the basics for now, I'll need to make or most likely buy a few jigs and other accessories for it but need to get the main part figured out and built for now. Any advice or ideas are greatly appreciated, Thanks.

 

[Firebrick43]

Router tables can be simple or very complex depending on how you adjust the routers spindle height.

I personally went with a milwaukee 5625 router, not only because it is one of the biggest but they have a lift for all practical purposes built in. Several different plates can be purchased and a hole drilled to allow quick adjust above the plate.

I personally used the Incra magnalock RT plate and I do like the quick change/quick removal of the center rings via strong neodymium magnets. And it is reasonable 150 ish dollars.

The most important thing about a router table is how flat it is, or more importantly, that it in no way is concave. It will cause all kinds of chaos in a cut if top is concave. Just barely convex is probably the best if you cant get it perfectly flat. I ended up using painters tape shims and a straight edge on sub base stretchers to get everything correct. I struggled with a prebuilt table for several years until I figured out it was concave.

I built mine as part of an MFT table but it doesn't have to be that way. A 2x4 base and MDF top can be very sufficient. Pat Warner had some excellent books and articles on router tables. He made every thing himself, both elegant, simple, and functional in the same piece. He has unfortunately passed but much of his stuff is still on the web if you google his name plus router table.

 

[jar944]

When I had a RT, it was just a router lift stuck in a table saw wing.

 

[cgrutt]

I had / still have part of a Bench Dog router table. I don't think they still make them but it had some very useful features, esp with fence system that came with it. T-track embedded in table and fence for jigs, etc. Also had a very nice cast iron lift but forgot who made it. I used one of the large Porter Cable industrial routers with it. Pricey but results were excellent. Made a kitchen at previous home with it. I put a large dust collection gate on cabinet that connected to my dust collection system. Table also included casters that lifted to place cabinet on solid legs but pushed down to make it mobile. Nice feature. Also had drawers to store router bits etc. I'll try to find an old ad or something it was a very nice table just for ideas.

From web

Router Table 40-037 - FineWoodworking

Router Table 40-037

www.finewoodworking.com

This looks like the lift that I had



Believe INCRA makes something very similar

Believe Router was a PC7518 it was about 3 HP variable speed and soft start.

 

[DGersic]

I searched for router table and looked thru the first 3 pages of results and didn't see much about router table builds.

Here’s mine from a couple of years ago.

Post in thread 'What did you do "IN" your garage today?'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...-do-in-your-garage-today.126997/post-10762215

I needed something to cut cabinet doors and drawer fronts for a cabinet makeover. Doors and drawers are half overlay, made from 3/4” plywood. Front side has the edges rounded over, back side has rabbet cuts. Then the Z shaped hinge mortices cut in to the edges.

Other than the knobs and finger boards, this was all scraps from around the shop. The top is 3/4” MDF topped with 1/4” Masonite. The T tracks are just router cuts in the MDF and a narrower cut in the Masonite. Toilet bolts used for the fence and fixtures.

A real lift would be nice. I built this around the HF fixed base router, which offers decent adjustability, if awkward under the table. Bit changes require dropping the “top” half of the router out of the table. Ok for a couple of cuts every now and then, would be a pain if you have to do it a lot.

The fence dust collection pocket works pretty well, better than I expected.

I built the whole thing sized to drop in to a WorkMate. That makes a nice stable platform, that’s portable, and doesn’t take a lot of storage space.

The only real problem I have with this is the top thickness takes a lot of height adjustment out of the router. I’ve considered building a new one with a real lift, or cutting this one down to get the router base up higher, regaining some of the adjustment. But I don’t use it enough for that limitation to bother me enough to build Version 2.

 

[manwithtools]

I was asked today if I wanted to make some kitchen doors for a house I've been doing a bunch of work in. Guess she had a company quote her 900 per door for some oak raised panels, no matter what size the door is. It's been a good while since I've done raised panel doors but I have experience so told her I would look into it and get her a price.

Building raised panel doors takes a fair amount of time and effort. I'm not discouraging you from building a router table as they can be very useful, but today I would just buy the doors from a door and drawer making company. Especially for a low quantity of doors, you can likely buy them for less than your cost of material and your labor combined.

I've used Eagle Woodworking in the past with good results. The Cabinet Door Store is another source I've seen recommended.

They will make them to your specs, and typically ship in 2-3 weeks. That allows you time to work on the other aspects of the project.

If you want the best in router tables and accessories, go to JessEm . A Canadian company with first class products.

 

[kbeefy]

My cousin was a cabinet maker and had this round router table with at least 4 routers mounted in it, all with their own fences.
He could have different ones set at different heights with different bits and very quickly knock out pieces with multiple cuts.
It was on casters so he could turn the table to get to the different ones, or just walk around it for smaller pieces.

It was cool and I wish I had taken a picture of it.

 

[NostraThpmas]

I built this 9 years ago. The melamine top and MDF fence come off. The sides of the pine base fold in. The whole thing stores on wall hooks. All made from big box store materials. Easy to transport as well.

 

[JuncleJohn]

Seems like I once saw a portable table saw that you could mount a router underneath.

John

 

[alinc100]

Not saying ,don't build your own table but I'd for sure opt into something with a lift/micro adjust especially starting from scratch on raised panel doors.
IIRC you are in SE MI. I have a Freud 3hp router/table combination I'd be happy to loan you for the duration of your project and see if you find features you like/dislike want /don't want,etc.

 

[Jgaz]

My first real router table was a free standing unit from WoodHaven. You can see it along the wall in this picture. If you have the floor space, there is nothing wrong with this type IMO.
I would however enclose the router for dust collection purposes if I was still using this table.

In my current shop I didn't have the room to dedicate to the free standing table.

This is about the third version of a good sized benchtop table I built using the original cutdown WoodHaven top.

Since I’ve made these benchtop versions I only missed the larger tabletop on a couple of jobs.

If you make a bench top table, make it tall enough that you can move it off your bench and store it with the bit in place without removing the router. That’s the mistake I made with the first version.

 

[Jgaz]

I also agree with what has been said about the wisdom of buying doors vs. buying the cutters and a large enough router to make the doors yourself.

 

[Jgaz]

If you build your own, or really if you buy something I would strongly advise getting some sort of micro adjuster for the fence.
I got along without one for quite awhile but after adding one that I built I wouldn’t be without one again.

Here is mine home built connected to the WoodHaven fence.

 

[rsanter]

Sorry no pictures, but over the years I owned a couple of router tables and I made a couple of them.

this is what I know from that.
best thing you can do if you have a table saw (full sized tablesaw) is to make the router table as an extension wing of the table saw. This allows you to use the fence and miter guage from the tablesaw.

or just buy a shaper. I have two delta shapers and I will never go back to a router table

 

[jar944]

.

or just buy a shaper. I have two delta shapers and I will never go back to a router table

This is my preference, especially if you need to buy a router and a lift. A used shaper is usually close to the same cost or cheaper.

 

[tarbellb]

This lift looks incredible, reviews are positive too. Cheaper then the competition, and looks way beefier

I bought the smaller one for my spindle router, build quality is great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09CYV9BDJ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[zimman]

I searched for router table and looked thru the first 3 pages of results and didn't see much about router table builds. I do a lot of construction and some woodworking here and there but took 4 years of it back in high school. I've been getting into more and more custom projects in residential kitchens and restaurants and it's time to build a real router table. Moved into a new house a while back and still setting up the shop but want to get into more wood projects when I get everything sorted out and have some time. Years ago I was going to build a router table and did a lot of planning but never got around to it. Don't remember much and I'm sure lots have changed in 15 or so years since then. Most of my stuff is portable because I need to be able to use it at jobsites and because I do a little of everything so have tools for auto repair, welding/metal, woodworking, and construction so 1200 sq ft gets filled up quick with tools and materials. I have a bunch of routers I've bought over the years but for the most part I just use a porter cable 2 1/4HP with plunge and fixed bases and have a few trim routers that do most of what I need, loving the m18 router. But I have 1 or 2 bigger 3.xxHP routers that are at least 15 years old and I haven't used in a longtime. Not sure if one of them would be good in the table or if I need to pick up a new router, which I'm not against.

I was asked today if I wanted to make some kitchen doors for a house I've been doing a bunch of work in. Guess she had a company quote her 900 per door for some oak raised panels, no matter what size the door is. It's been a good while since I've done raised panel doors but I have experience so told her I would look into it and get her a price. Figured this might be a good time to build a router table and fit it out with all the bells and whistles.

Anyone have pictures of theirs or links of router tables to get some ideas? Any nice features that are a must when building one? I haven't decided if I want to make this somewhat portable, as in not a full height cabinet, so I can take it to restaurant remodels and other cajobs when doing custom stuff and just set it on a table or make a base for it. Or make it a shop fixture on wheels to store it out of the way. I do have an enclosed trailer to take it to jobs if needed but a "table top" type would be more convenient so still deciding which way I want to go.

Once I decide on that I need to decide on size and material for the top and get a lift plate, any suggestions on what's out there these days? I have T track already and I bought this fence a few years back, https://www.rockler.com/rockler-router-table-fence-and-guard. But not against making or buying a different one. Think that's the basics for now, I'll need to make or most likely buy a few jigs and other accessories for it but need to get the main part figured out and built for now. Any advice or ideas are greatly appreciated, Thanks.

Norm Abrams is probably one of the greatest carpenters on earth.
Here's his.

Router Table - The New Yankee Workshop

Norm visits American Woodworker magazine to get ideas for building a router table with drawers for accessories, such as bits and inserts. This was a lost

www.newyankee.com

 

[lilredex]

I built one of those large table top router tables long ago and never used it much. The first thing I did was make a larger base and went on from there. Most of my routing is done with the PC vise mounted and smaller jobs are done with the HF trim router pictured.

 

[signcrafter]

Seems like I once saw a portable table saw that you could mount a router underneath.

John

I have one, it's a husky and I love it for a work table, especially for tile jobs. Legs go on quick and it is sturdy and has T track built in. The router part works but isn't great. No way I would attempt something like cabinet doors on it. Think the table was originally made by ketter and rebranded by husky.

 

[signcrafter]

I will look into getting pre built. Thanks for the suggestion. Part of me wanted to build them and use it as an excuse and the funds for a router table. And have it for when I redo my own kitchen down the road. But I guess for the price it will save me time. May still build a router table but most likely will get pushed back to the bottom of the tools needed list if I'm not building these doors. Will have to see.

I have been searching marketplace for a used shaper. Not sure I want another full size machine in the shop right now or not. Don't have the room to leave my wood machines out so they have to get pulled out Everytime I want to use them. Part of the reason I was contemplating a bench top vs full size.

Will have to think about this now and see what direction I want to go. Thanks for all the advice.

 

[jhracer]

Norm Abrams is probably one of the greatest carpenters on earth.
Here's his.

Router Table - The New Yankee Workshop

Norm visits American Woodworker magazine to get ideas for building a router table with drawers for accessories, such as bits and inserts. This was a lost

www.newyankee.com

This is the one I built 10 or more years ago. It has served me well.

 

[zimman]

This is the one I built 10 or more years ago. It has served me well.

I loved this entire series and him. What a guy.
Zim

 

[gahrajmahal]

I think if I was going undertake a project like this I would be purchasing multiple routers. The thing that takes so long for me is inserting the router bits, getting the height just perfect and the distance to the fence. If I had multiple stations I could really be productive. I would also be creating lots of dust.

 

[jar944]

I think if I was going undertake a project like this I would be purchasing multiple routers. The thing that takes so long for me is inserting the router bits, getting the height just perfect and the distance to the fence. If I had multiple stations I could really be productive. I would also be creating lots of dust.

Typically it's 3 stations.
Coping, Sticking and Panel raising.

 

[FullRaceMerc]

When I had a RT, it was just a router lift stuck in a table saw wing.

At the shop we have one of these ^ dropped into the big table saw table. Very nice to use for small work. And a couple of shapers for bigger work.

Up at the retirement place I have a homebuilt benchtop version, built long ago. It has a hinged lid for router access. Not so easy as a modern router lift, but it still works.

 

[ALinCarolina]

You will want a router table but be sure to get one that has a contained space for dust collection. If you don't have a dust collection system yet then you will at some point if you get into more woodworking. It makes a huge difference in being able to enjoy the hobby or business. I have the Bench Dog one posted above but any table that has collection below and collection at the fence will work. Router tables produce a huge amount of chips and dust so if no collection you spend a lot of time sweeping and vacuuming.

 

[RTM]

I have an older (at least since 2007) Bench Dog Table top unit. Used it to build the drawers for my under workbench cabinet, the lock miter joints were a joy once we got it set up.

Being tall at 6’2”, I find TS wing units too low, mine sits on a Workmate for big projects where the TS is also in use.
One of the few tools I don’t have decent pix of on line.

Looks kinda like this, but no leveling feet, solid flat white MDF all around. Similar split fence w a dust port. I was too poor to buy a lift back then, so I used a 1/2” bolt and coupling nut to lift it a hair. Smarter older me would pick a set up w 20 TPI next time.

I can store my older Craftsman and newer Dewalt plunge routers inside when not in use, which is most of the time right now

Bench Dog ProTop Contractor Router Table - 40-001

Bench Dog ProTop Contractor Router Table - 40-001

www.cpopowertools.com

I too don’t have storage space for a cabinet in my garage, so stacking stuff on shelves is the only way.

 

[MongoTA]

Anyone have pictures of theirs or links of router tables to get some ideas? Any nice features that are a must when building one? I haven't decided if I want to make this somewhat portable, as in not a full height cabinet, so I can take it to restaurant remodels and other jobs when doing custom stuff and just set it on a table or make a base for it. Or make it a shop fixture on wheels to store it out of the way. I do have an enclosed trailer to take it to jobs if needed but a "table top" type would be more convenient so still deciding which way I want to go.

I made my own about 30 years ago, still use it today. It's a tabletop version, when in use, most often I put it on my table saw table. When tucked it can be hung from the shop ceiling. I've built numerous runs of kitchen and bath cabinets, built-in libraries, wainscot and runs of trim as needed.

Top is about 24" x 48". Poplar frame and melamine top.

Most fence adjustments are via wingnuts on carriage bolts. Fence is long enough where micro-adjustments can be easily made. Loosen one wingnut, slide that end of the fence in or out just a bit, retighten. In the photo below, there is a pin stored right next to the vacuum port.


The two front pieces of the fence are adjustable wings, they can be slid in or out based on router bit diameter. When using a large diameter raised panel bit and routing something dusty like MDF, I'll put a piece of tape on the fence above the bit to cover part of the gap/opening, it helps improve extraction of the fine MDF dust.



I have several melamine base plates so a few of my routers have dedicated base plates. That helps when doing cabinet door or drawer front runs. I can have one router with a cope bit, one with a stick bit, and a third with a raised panel bit. Get those three set-ups dialed in, then instead of changing bits, I change routers. It's fast and easy. There have been a few times when I've done all the cope cuts and moved on to the next cut, only to find I made a mistake of some sort. Instead of swapping out bits and re-tweaking to get the same setup, I just swap out routers. Done. Then swap back and I'm again on my way.

Drawer boxes are often dovetail, so I have another router with a straight bit and another with a dovetail bit, I use those on a Leigh dovetail jig. Multiple routers with dedicated bits makes things much easier and more efficient.

I use a 3-1/2hp Porter Cable variable speed router to spin the large raised panel bits. Yes, it can be a pain to manually tweak the bit height on a plunge router hanging upside-down in a router table. But I've been doing it for 30 years and it doesn't take more than a few minutes to make a few test cuts. And once it's set, it's set. I always thought I'd get a height adjust mechanism to make bit height adjustments easier, but what I have works for me. Again, while I may do large runs on occasion, I'm not a full time production shop and probably more importantly, I'm the only one using these tools.

You'll figure out what efficiencies matter most to you.

The base, I have cardboard inserts to fill the four sides. Not really required when routing wood, but it does help improve air flow and dust removal when routing MDF. Below, cardboard on one side, the cardboard for the other sides is laying flat on the bottom.



I recently changed out my table saw, I replaced my contractor's saw with a Unisaw. I'm contemplating using the table saw table as my router table. Not certain if I'll go that route, but it's something I'm thinking of.

I do route long boards at times, 12' is not unusual, seldom 16'. The length of the 48" table top couples with infeed and outfeed support stands help keep the stock flat on the router table. But that's where hanging the routers on the much larger table saw table would help.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I was just at this crossroad, wanted a router table so I could use the bits I have. I ended up buying another shaper & will set it up to use as a router table. I picked up a 1hp Delta HD shaper in nice shape for 150$, wouldn't pay to mess around with a router table, just my opinion. As far as cut quality goes I've had great results on my other shaper.

 

[signcrafter]

I was just at this crossroad, wanted a router table so I could use the bits I have. I ended up buying another shaper & will set it up to use as a router table. I picked up a 1hp Delta HD shaper in nice shape for 150$, wouldn't pay to mess around with a router table, just my opinion. As far as cut quality goes I've had great results on my other shaper.

Are you using an adapter to be able to use 1/2" and 1/4" router bits in your shaper?

If I could find a shaper for 150 it would be a no brainer. I've looked and the only thing worth getting was 650 and up.

 

[Jgaz]

I know that the OP wants to make his own doors and I applauded that.

For those reading this that may be considering a smaller router table and buying a door or doors I offer this project.

I helped a friend doing an interior make over on a nice, older model diesel pusher motor home.
There was a CRT TV mounted overhead, up front between the driver and passenger seats.
He wanted to make use of the large open space where the TV used to sit.

I made this multi angle cabinet frame to tie the existing overhead cabinets to the new space.


Here is the completed job. The cabinet doors on either side were cut down and repurposed from elsewhere in the coach. I added glass after unsuccessfully trying to reuse their raised panels.

The center cabinet door was made to my specs for a very reasonable price.

IMO it ties the project together in a professional way I don‘t think I could duplicate with my skill set and existing tools. The arched top rail would have added even more complexity.

Long story just to say there is nothing to be ashamed of in buying doors when building a cabinet project

 

[Renegade1LI]

Are you using an adapter to be able to use 1/2" and 1/4" router bits in your shaper?

If I could find a shaper for 150 it would be a no brainer. I've looked and the only thing worth getting was 650 and up.

Yes I have an adapter for both shapers, just got to be ready when a deal pops up.

 

[RTM]

Get those three set-ups dialed in, then instead of changing bits, I change routers. It's fast and easy. There have been a few times when I've done all the cope cuts and moved on to the next cut, only to find I made a mistake of some sort. Instead of swapping out bits and re-tweaking to get the same setup, I just swap out routers. Done. Then swap back and I'm again on my way.

Dang Just brilliant.

 

[Codyboy]

Norm Abrams is probably one of the greatest carpenters on earth.
Here's his.

Router Table - The New Yankee Workshop

Norm visits American Woodworker magazine to get ideas for building a router table with drawers for accessories, such as bits and inserts. This was a lost

www.newyankee.com

I built the original version probably 26 years ago.
I needs updated with a better lift mechanism and new router.

 

[jar944]

This is GJ, you need a new martin t27 to make a couple cabinets.

 

[Max]

Here is mine:





I built the cabinet and drawers out of some leftover cherry plywood. The lift lets me be very precise on height, and it makes it relatively easy to adjust things like drawer lock bits. The Xacta fence is awesome - it does dovetails and finger joints, as well as makes it easy to setup things exactly. The top is from Rockler - I got it on sale and it was cheaper than I could make one.

I just printed a bunch of stuff to get organized so here is my bit drawer:

 

[alinc100]

Facebook

www.facebook.com

 

[PugetDude]

I have one of these, it will take 1/2" router bits or shaper cutters with an optional 1/2" spindle. Table is dead flat. I don't do enough woodworking anymore to justify a full size shaper.



DELTA Model 43-505 Now discontinued; I found mine on eBay for $150 a few years ago. Reminds me that I need to make a few more table inserts, I have some lock miter post covers to make this summer.