Power tools - Corded vs Battery

[Ultradog MN]

A discussion about battery powered tools on another forum prompted me to make this video.
The set up:
Corded Milwaukee Super Sawzall vs
Milwaukee battery Sawzall.
Both saws are nearly new.
Both with identical New blades.
Cutting a piece of 4"X 12" Douglas Fir.
Guess which one wins.

PS
Yes I cheated.
Notice that when the corded one made the cut Much Faster (and easier) I dropped that saw on the ground and gave the battery one an assist and used both hands to help it get the job done.
I understand that for many here the battery tools meet their needs. And they are portable.
But when you need to get a job done it is still best to pull a cord!

 

[Mr Ratchet]

What models are they and their specs? Milwaukee makes several in both corded and battery with different specs. What was the battery specs used? What was the charged condition and overall condition of the battery? Any nails or screws in the board? You don's show the side before and after the cut.

 

[micromind]

I agree. Plus, the battery doesn't run down on a corded model.

On most of my corded tools I've replaced the factory cord with a 25' one. This way I don't need an extension cord very often.

 

[Ultradog MN]

The cordless job belongs to a friend. He says it's about 2 years old. Hasn't had a lot of use. I did charge the battery for about 2 hours before I made the test. First 3 photos.
My corded one is the last photo.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I agree. Plus, the battery doesn't run down on a corded model.

On most of my corded tools I've replaced the factory cord with a 25' one. This way I don't need an extension cord very often.

My first Milwaukee Sawzall lasted about 15 years. In that time I had to replace the plug once and quick blade change thing once
This one Was nearly new when I got it at an auction.

 

[zendriver]

Does the left arm always have the exact same amount of strength as the right?

They did look like they were being horsed during their prospective cuts and the battery sounded like it was ready to poop out.

 

[sparky 1971]

I don't think I've ever used a corded Milwaukee Sawzall but I have a 20+ year old Hitachi that will run circles around my M18 Fuel. And I had a Porter Cable Tiger Saw that was at least as good as, if not better than, the Hitachi but have no idea what happened to it.


I just built a shelter house at my pond for the ducks and, at 250+ yards from the house and shop it would have been ideal for battery tools but with the exception of an impact driver I did it all with corded and air tools and a 2200 watt generator. The dust got wiped off the above mentioned Hitachi, Makita circular saw, an old Ryobi miter saw, Milwaukee Magnum Hole Shooter, Rockwell multi tool, and three nail guns if for nothing else, to justify still having them. I did have to buy a new eight gallon air compressor; the generator wouldn't start my 30 gallon and the little hot dog compressor couldn't keep up with the framing nailer. I could have taken the 5500 watt generator down there but decided I would rather have a new compressor.

In hindsight, it was fun but rolling up the extension cords and hoses sucked and made me realize how much I appreciate battery tools. I'm definitely not getting rid of anything with a cord but I doubt that I ever get that many out again for one project.

 

[zendriver]

I have a corded Milwaukee Sawzall rarely used, that probably will still be good 1000 years from now. The weight alone is a advantage over newer cordless stuff in the OP rigorous test.

 

[neophyte]

If I’m not mistaken, the older Milwaukee Super Sawzalls use a different tupe of gear mechanism compared to the newer ones, and particularly the cordless Milwaukee sawzalls.
The mechanism in the newer saws is closer to what other manufacturers tend to use, and goes back to some of the original cordless and compact Sawzalls such as the “Hatchet” model, which was made in both a corded and cordless model. (Back in the NiCd days).
I don’t know why Milwaukee used that mechanism, style.
Maybe it was cheaper, or maybe it was more efficient than the other mechanism.
The older Milwaukee mechanism was very smooth, and you can even see that in the video.

 

[crewchief888]

all i have corded and cordless drills as well as air
cordless hex drivers
cordless, corded, air grinders/sanders
cordless and air impacts
corded sawsall
coded and air die grinders
wife has cordless drill, hackzall, sprayer, limb cutter and blower

 

[Ultradog MN]

If I’m not mistaken, the older Milwaukee Super Sawzalls use a different tupe of gear mechanism compared to the newer ones, and particularly the cordless Milwaukee sawzalls.
The mechanism in the newer saws is closer to what other manufacturers tend to use, and goes back to some of the original cordless and compact Sawzalls such as the “Hatchet” model, which was made in both a corded and cordless model. (Back in the NiCd days).
I don’t know why Milwaukee used that mechanism, style.
Maybe it was cheaper, or maybe it was more efficient than the other mechanism.
The older Milwaukee mechanism was very smooth, and you can even see that in the video.

The corded saws have a longer stroke.
Cordless is shorter - almost vibratory.
More teeth cutting per stroke means more sawing done and longer blade life as well.

 

[KnurledNut]

I'm not a Milwaukee guy, but my Makita brushless recip will run circles around my older brushed model. I bet the results would have been noticeably different with a newer Fuel saw and some fresh high output batteries.
Also really need a guy running each saw to be a fair test. Same for letting gravity determine the outcome without compensating for differences in tool weight.
I understand the point trying to be made here, but I don't fully agree with the method to prove it.

 

[MovingAlong]

But when you need to get a job done it is still best to pull a cord!

And which job might that be?

 

[Ultradog MN]

And which job might that be?

I'm retired now but was a remodeler. So the type of jobs I would have used a reciprocating saw on was like cutting out 10 feet of wall to open a kitchen into the dining room. Or open a roof to add a dormer so you could have an egress window for an attic bedroom, or relocate a stairway to the basement.
I understand how handy cordless tools can be around your home or farm but for raw cutting, sawing and drilling power - plus longevity - there is no comparison between corded and cordless tools.

 

[neophyte]

The corded saws have a longer stroke.
Cordless is shorter - almost vibratory.
More teeth cutting per stroke means more sawing done and longer blade life as well.

This is a difference, but it is not the only difference.
The sorter stroke is better for thin metal cutting, (such as plumbing work or metal studs), whereas a longer stroke is better for wood cutting.
The shorter stroke length is/was, almost certainly to save battery life. (Similar shorter stroke lengths would be found on older cordless jigsaws).
The other difference is in the design of the “gearing”.
Milwaukee used to use a completely different system than other manufacturers.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

For me, cordless wins every time because I'll be done by the time you get done rolling out a cord or hooking up a generator.

 

[jar944]

The cordless job belongs to a friend. He says it's about 2 years old. Hasn't had a lot of use. I did charge the battery for about 2 hours before I made the test. First 3 photos.
My corded one is the last photo.

That's a first generation brushed cordless. Not a great comparison

That model is closer to 15 years than 2 years old.

 

[MovingAlong]

So the type of jobs I would have used a reciprocating saw on ...

And so that makes it the better tool for you. A relatively important distinction to allow for.

We're not all the same - and that's ok.

 

[1Bad55Chevy]

Part 2 of this test should be in a Walmart parking lot under random trucks and SUVs.

 

[subroc]

Assume a corded saw is better. Who cares. It certainly is far less convenient. In the work the OP described, in any of those jobs, would you even go through one 5ah, 6ah or 8ah battery opening a 10 foot wall or roof hole or cellar stairway hole?

The 20 year old argument on if a corded tool is better is amusing. Corded tools certainly have a place. But, pros and DIYers alike have been voting with their wallets for decades and the hands down choice is the cordless tool.

 

[Mr Ratchet]

I have a corded 15 amp Super Sawzall and a M18 Fuel Super Sawzall. Both have 1 1/4" strokes. The Corded has 2,800 SPM and the Fuel has 3,000 SPM. Both have orbital and straight cutting selectors. The simple math equation goes to the cordless. That's without a load though. On paper specs and real world results don't always match up. Milwaukee puts it innovation behind the cordless tools and the corded has been unchanged for years.

If I know I'm going to go through a lot a batteries (seldom). I will get the corded model out. Otherwise, the M 18 gets used the most.

 

[lardy1]

The main criteria for me is whether I've already paid for something that works just fine for my needs or am I looking into something I don't already own. I worked with hoses and cords my entire working life so if what's already paid for works, I'd rather spend money on something I need but don't have.

 

[manwithtools]

I have a corded 15 amp Super Sawzall and a M18 Fuel Super Sawzall. Both have 1 1/4" strokes. The Corded has 2,800 SPM and the Fuel has 3,000 SPM. Both have orbital and straight cutting selectors.

This, the OP's test with outdated cordless equipment makes no sense. That cordless saw was made the 26th week of 2014. M18 tools have come a long way since then. I have the M18 Fuel Super Sawzall as well. It's a beast.

At least the corded version he tested is a 99 model. This test proves nothing other than some old tools don't perform the same.

By the way the current corded 15 amp Super Sawzall weighs in at 9.8 lbs and the M18 Fuel Super Sawzall weighs 10.3 lbs with XC-5.0 battery.

I have a forty year old Porter Cable Tiger Saw I bought new that is a tank. It's sat in drawer for the last 8 years or more. The M18 Fuel Super Sawzall does all I need just as fast if not faster than the old PC, with no need for a cord or a power source.

 

[mepstein]

I kept a bunch of corded tools as backups. I haven’t touched them in 5 years. This thread reminds me I need to drop them off at my local Spanish mission so someone can use them.

 

[KnurledNut]

A lot of people get passionate about their way of doing things, but I keep an open mind on the cordless vs corded debate because they usually both have a place.
For instance, a local well-established exhaust shop has been using corded recips for decades with no desire for cordless. And watching them work, I couldn't agree more with the decision they have made.

 

[MichaelP]

deleted

 

[Gmonkee]

Corded VS battery has been going on in my home on several fronts.

Trimmers, entry level B+D in both. The corded for horsepower and battery for ease of setup

Sawzall, HF Chicago Electric VS Ryobi 18v. Same result.

Hedge trimmer, Homelite corded, B+D battery.
Same result.

Drills, B+D, Pretul (3 models) Chinese import entry level all.
Power in cheap corded Pretul, big battery Pretul and B+D full featured came kinda close. Older and smaller (6 units) far behind.

Chainsaws, corded Truper 1600w, B+D 900w, Ryobi 18v battery.
Ryobi died of overheat. Corded outclassed it without effort. Still going like new.
The 1600w challenges my 45cc gas for power.

That's my **** at least. We prefer battery but when it's tough going corded wins. Bought a used corded base model circular saw, won't be bothering with battery.

Work near the house corded is fine. Battery goes anywhere. We have lots of extension cord too. But, we won't if it can be moved closer to power.

 

[whateg01]

Has it already been 24 hours since we bashed on batteries? Time flies!

 

[PugetDude]

Part 2 of this test should be in a Walmart parking lot under random trucks and SUVs.

.... using Harbor Freight Warrior blades vs. Milwaukee Demolition blades shoplifted from Home Depot.

 

[1Bad55Chevy]

.... using Harbor Freight Warrior blades vs. Milwaukee Demolition blades shoplifted from Home Depot.

Side note.....

I had to scrap a few cars I had behind my shop a few weeks back so I cut the converters off them. I purchased a Diablo carbide blade and that thing was an absolute beast! I cut over 20 converters off and additional cuts and it never dulled or bent. That was the first set i cut off.


My sawzall is a pos corded Ryobi.