How hard to drill a 1/4 inch hole in 11 gauge steel? Can you do it by hand?

[mikey03]

I want to modify some fitness equipment that got 11 gauge steel pieces. I want to attach some stuff to it that would require me to drill about 1/4 inch holes in it. Honestly 3/16 might work I got some flexibility.

I got a m18 fuel drill is my biggest most powerful regular drill. I just got a feeling if I try without asking for advise then it’s not going to go well since it’s so much thicker than anything I ever drilled before.

Also wondering is there like small machine shops that do little piece work like this where I can show up with a piece of metal and say I need this many holes drilled and they charge me a decent rate that isn’t going to make me just buy my own drill press for half the price they want to drill a dozen holes

I figure it’s not worth there time for jobs like this idk if any kind of shop exists I can pay. If such a place exists can you give me tips on what the type of business it is so I can search my area.

 

[Loud Lyle]

With a quality drill bit 11 gauge should be no problem with a m18 drill

 

[mikey03]

With a quality drill bit 11 gauge should be no problem with a m18 drill

Do I use a pilot hole first or just go straight in?

any suggestions on doing this might be different than other drilling I’ve done? I got some drilling lune of some kind in the garage. Might be for taps I forget. It was recommended here on some thread. Cutting fluid idk

 

[johnre]

Don't try to hand hold it, if it's a small piece. Fixture it somehow, or if you have to, set it on the floor on a piece of scrap plywood and stand on it.

 

[LS1-IROC]

If it's mild steel, it's not hard to hand drill at all, really quite easy. First thing you'll want to do is center punch where you want the hole. Since you have no experience doing it, you could pilot it with a 1/8" drill to make it easier for you. Then follow up with the 1/4" drill. I personally wouldn't use any cutting oil for that size but it doesn't hurt and can keep you from burning up a drill bit if you don't know what you are doing. Now, if this 11 gauge is stainless it's a different ball game altogether.

 

[RoninB4]

-Some exercise equipment is chromed, if so the chrome will present a little difficulty in that it can dull the cutting edges and possibly burn the bit itself. Once below the chrome layer the mild steel should be no problem provided your bit is properly sharpened. Stainless steel will be different than mild steel. The chrome can also be sanded/ground off in the small patch needed for the hole, it's only a few .001's thick. Don't hold the piece being drilled in your hand, use either a vise or put it on some wood on the floor. Be careful when drilling through that the bit doesn't grab the piece as it breaks through. Cutting oil optional, pilot only if location is critical. More details about what you're wanting to do get better answers.

 

[ADKAmateur]

LS1-IROC is excatly right on a center punch and starting with a pilot hole. Without the center punch your bit will likely wander when starting.

 

[Lassen Forge]

11 ga is like 1/8", so yeah, unless it needs to be a precision hole, for, say. a bushing, I'd have no problem drilling that...

 

[coldh2o]

...set it on the floor on a piece of scrap plywood and stand on it.

Make sure you're wearing appropriate footwear, it's possible the drill bit could slip off the work piece and across the top of your foot.

Follow me for more advice on using a hole saw while wearing flip-flops.

 

[Lassen Forge]

I got a painful reminder the hard way 4 weeks ago about wearing appropriate footware - got the weed whacker out, working on the hillside, went to push the cutting head feed pole with my left foot and it slipped... Weed whacked the ankle (for juat a split second) and took the skin down to the ankle. Had no idea how bad until that night when I took my sox off (I was wearing my **** shape low ankle tennie runners) and the next morning it was swolen up like a softball and oozing...

It's FINALLY scabbed over, and itchy, and no more infection redness, but **** oh dear, after my disaster a couple few years back and almost losing my left leg, and being sore enough not to walk on it...

Where the hell are my red wings???

 

[lilredex]

I want to modify some fitness equipment that got 11 gauge steel pieces. I want to attach some stuff to it that would require me to drill about 1/4 inch holes in it. Honestly 3/16 might work I got some flexibility.

I got a m18 fuel drill is my biggest most powerful regular drill. I just got a feeling if I try without asking for advise then it’s not going to go well since it’s so much thicker than anything I ever drilled before.

Also wondering is there like small machine shops that do little piece work like this where I can show up with a piece of metal and say I need this many holes drilled and they charge me a decent rate that isn’t going to make me just buy my own drill press for half the price they want to drill a dozen holes

I figure it’s not worth there time for jobs like this idk if any kind of shop exists I can pay. If such a place exists can you give me tips on what the type of business it is so I can search my area.

Where are you?? Around here we see import eight inch drill presses for as little as $25. That's the way to go!

Like this one.

 

[Jswain]

Good sharp bit. Good centre punch. Position the work so you can be overtop pushing down(preferably). Slower rpm & lots of downforce. Drill like butter.

 

[mikey03]

11 ga is like 1/8", so yeah, unless it needs to be a precision hole, for, say. a bushing, I'd have no problem drilling that...

By precision do you mean needs to be precise with no wobble that might make the hole oblong? Or do you mean precise as in where the hole is? Because honestly if the hole is a little off in size or shape it’s fine I’m just running a small bolt in to hold something on. But the hole does got to be in a pretty close to exact spot if it’s off more than 1/16 it will be crooked

 

[mikey03]

-Some exercise equipment is chromed, if so the chrome will present a little difficulty in that it can dull the cutting edges and possibly burn the bit itself.

it’s powder coated

If it's mild steel, it's not hard to hand drill at all, really quite easy.

it’s not stainless. Honestly I’m not familiar with the term mild steel but if it’s not stainless then does that mean it would be mild? Or how do I figure it out? It’s magnetic and stainless isn’t real magnetic.

 

[MichaelP]

Step drill.

 

[MJD1]

Center punch and screw machine length ( stubby length) drills. Cutting oil and drill it in one shot, no pilot needed

 

[yatg]

I got a painful reminder the hard way 4 weeks ago about wearing appropriate footware - got the weed whacker out, working on the hillside, went to push the cutting head feed pole with my left foot and it slipped... Weed whacked the ankle (for juat a split second) and took the skin down to the ankle. Had no idea how bad until that night when I took my sox off (I was wearing my **** shape low ankle tennie runners) and the next morning it was swolen up like a softball and oozing...

It's FINALLY scabbed over, and itchy, and no more infection redness, but **** oh dear, after my disaster a couple few years back and almost losing my left leg, and being sore enough not to walk on it...

Where the hell are my red wings???

Nice story, but this thread is about driling, not weed wackin.

 

[coldh2o]

Well if you're not drillin', you're probably whackin'...

 

[Lassen Forge]

Make sure you're wearing appropriate footwear, it's possible the drill bit could slip off the work piece and across the top of your foot.

Follow me for more advice on using a hole saw while wearing flip-flops.

Nice story, but this thread is about driling, not weed wackin.

My comment was about not wearing appropriate footwear and royally effing up my already effed up left ankle.

 

[RoninB4]

it’s powder coated

-Highly unlikely that it's SS if powder coated. Should be mild steel (low carbon content) and much easier to drill than SS.

Honestly I’m not familiar with the term mild steel but if it’s not stainless then does that mean it would be mild?

-"Mild steel" means a lower carbon content than high carbon or alloy steel. Less expensive, easier to form/bend/machine and what most things are made from that don't require steel with enhanced properties. High carbon is most often for things needing hardening (heat treatment) like drill bits, cutters, abrasion resistance, or springs.

Or how do I figure it out? It’s magnetic and stainless isn’t real magnetic.

-There's two general groupings of SS a consumer will usually encounter. Application determines which is used.

-The 300 series (austenitic) is almost non-magnetic and isn't heat treated. It's commonly used in items exposed to the atmosphere or chemicals like some deck screws, hinges, and things used in commercial food production (FDA rules). Lots of pots/pans are also 300 series but some are not. Higher nickel-chrome content. More ductile (formability) lower yield strength but higher tensile strength than 400 series.

-The 400 series (martensitic) is mostly magnetic, usually more expensive, higher carbon content, and can be heat treated for hardness. It is also susceptible to rust due to the ferrous/ferritic content. You'll find members of the 400 series in knives, machinist measuring instruments, firearms, and some household kitchen appliance components. I've a few good cooking pots/pans that are 400 series. Same maybe/maybe not goes for flatware utensils. Low nickel content, low ductility for forming. Higher yield strength but lower tensile strength than 300 series.

 

[mikey03]

Center punch and screw machine length ( stubby length) drills. Cutting oil and drill it in one shot, no pilot needed

Stubby drills is a good idea so less likely to snap. Honestly I never thought of that. Esp since I just need to drill a small bit of depth.

Step drill.

i thought these are for sheet metal?

 

[MichaelP]

11ga steel (about 1/8" or 3mm) is considered to be sheet metal.

But a twist drill will work with it without any problem, of course. A step drill will however produce rounder holes if its steps are long enough for the metal thickness.