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Shed - Build, buy, or DIY "kit." Any input appreciated

67King

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Okay, I've read up some on here, particularly from @bdbecker on his shed build. The time it seems to take has me thinking that just sucking it up and buying one may be the best bet. Here's what I'm looking for: 10x16 with an 8' wide double door on the 10' side, just a walk in door on one of the 16' sides. 7' walls are fine. Do NOT want a concrete pad. It'll be located on a slight slope that'll need to be adjusted (note at least Tuffshed will do that). Unfortunately, I don't have too many places that are good to put one. The places I'd like to put it are below the allowable line from TVA (we are on the lake, and much of our property is below the 820' elevation line where non-dock buildings are prohibited, full pool is 813' ASL). And while I don't want to just spend a ton of money, I don't want to try to do the scavenge scraps method to make it super cheap. So I assume I'll be buying all materials new. 67Princess' partner is a manager at 84 Lumber, so I may be able to get some supplies at a discount. Have an e-mail into him for any info he may have on them.

LONG build of the house just finished, and we close on the old house on Friday. I've got stuff scattered everywhere. I'd really like to get the mowers and other lawn equipment moved. Right now I have them parked on a covered patio. ONe big concern is that one of the mowers is a commercial grade one, a John Deere 997Z, which has a 60" rear discharge deck and weighs in at 1850 pounds empty. So whatever I do will need to be able to handle the weight.

So Tuffshed has quoted me $6650. That's turnkey. I like that they have galvanized floor joists. COnsidering DIY, as I'm thinking the premium I'd pay for having it basically ready to assemble would save me a ton of time. Costco doesn't have a good DIY option, and even then, one of the options is $4100 DIY, or $7100 turnkey. Seems high to have it built. There is a Home Depot DIY option for $3500, but I would have to frame in the second door, and the door that comes with it is not wide enough, so I'd have to do that door, as well. THis is getting away from both the cost savings, as well as the time savings.

Anyway, so wondering I guess mostly from guys and gals who have done these ground up and those who maybe did a "kit." How long does each one take, would you do it, again (especially if pressed for time), or would you punt and just paid the premium to have it turn key done.
 
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cgrutt

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I don't know anything about Tuff sheds but my gut is telling me you will want a somewhat robust floor system to support those commercial mowers. Thinking min 2x6 (or 2x8) floor joists on 12" centers with double layer of 3/4 subflooring. Doubt you'll find that pre-built.
 

BillK

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I dont know if they still do them but 84 used to offer kits and they would customize them to whatever you wanted. That being said and depending on what your time is worth the $6550 does not sound bad at all. Is that delivered and set up ?
 

MovingAlong

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I'd build. In fact, I did build mine (12x16) because I also had some specific requirements: 2x6 walls, hip roof, rafters & joists (no trusses), 20" soffit overhang, gutters, matching siding, etc. Wanted to blend with the style of the house.

Floor spans have tables that will address your weight. Remember, some folks park their cars in wooden garages where the back of the garage is 8' in the air. So, it's been done before.. maybe take a look at some neighbors garages and see how they did it.
 
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67King

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I don't know anything about Tuff sheds but my gut is telling me you will want a somewhat robust floor system to support those commercial mowers. Thinking min 2x6 (or 2x8) floor joists on 12" centers with double layer of 3/4 subflooring. Doubt you'll find that pre-built.

That's one of the questions I have. I've found info on total load for the whole shed, but that isn't that helpful when I have the bulk of it in one spot. At least this sucker has big *** tires under the (diesel, so heavy) engine!

It comes with 2.6 galvanized steel joists with 24" centers. And yes, the floor is my big concern on all of this. I have some questions into TuffShed, where I did address the weight of the mower. I will ask about doubling up on the joists. Wonder also if maybe running 2X6's on top of OSB may be better than another layer of subfloor.

I dont know if they still do them but 84 used to offer kits and they would customize them to whatever you wanted. That being said and depending on what your time is worth the $6550 does not sound bad at all. Is that delivered and set up ?

Yes, that is with any grading necessary, delivered, set up, painted (current promo through Home Depot is free paint). Turn key, so to speak.

Thanks to everyone for the replies. I'm feeling a bit better about being enticed to just stroke a check.
 
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Aaron_W

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I was considering the same thing a couple years ago.

After watching some videos of people building kit sheds, I came to the conclusion that build yourself from plans or pre-built was the best answer.
A lot of the people building from kits had to replace a fair bit of unacceptable material and many of the kits are not truly complete. They require the builder to separately source items like roofing, flooring, soffit vents etc. Not really a huge deal, but it hides some of the costs making the kit seem like a better deal than it is. I'm sure there are different quality levels of kits based on price, but it turned me off of the kits.

Ultimately I realized for my needs I don't really need a shed, I just need additional covered space. I'm just going to extend the carport that already exists.
 

driftpin

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You can compare your options with this builder. I have one 10' X 20' (the largest the AHJ would allow) with 3/4" plywood, a vapor barrier then Hardi-Board. Framing is 18 ga. galvanized steel, very well laid-out. You get engineered drawings, sealed for permitting. Standing seam metal roof, gable end vents, and a metal roll-up door are what I spec'ed. I also asked them to rough-in for a 36" metal side door (long side) and two windows, on the long sides, diagonally opposite each other, for efficiency of ventilation. I had a friend weld-up some burglar bars which I designed, which I bolted into the framed galvanized steel window openings.

1781111524177.png


A thread I did on the building: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/getting-some-needed-storage.368713/#post-6908182

I did it w/permits and for compliance w/the State of FL Building Code, for high-velocity hurricane zone (HVHZ) design needs. It is powered by an underground PVC electrical run from the house main disconnect panel to a 100 amp Square D outside shut-off and inside 100 amp circuit breaker panel. I have multiple 120V interior and exterior receptacles and 240V receptacles, exterior lighting/motion detector floodlights, and LED luminaires at the interior ridge beam, plenty of light. There are designed shear walls for the end roll-up door framing, and for the side 36" exterior door framing.

It's rated for 180 MPH gusts, as I live in SE FL, a mile from the Atlantic Ocean and two blocks from the Intracoastal Waterway.

You said, "no concrete," I had a concrete pad poured for the building and to connect to the rear of house driveway which opens onto a service alley. In the aerial shot, you can see I ordered it w/no floor. I used Hilti 1/2" X 5-1/2" threaded anchors through the perimeter PT 2" X 6" floor plates anchoring it to the concrete slab. The anchoring wasn't w/o some sub-contractor drama, read the thread if you're curious.

It's been 9 years and no issues whatsoever. I would buy another if I needed to.
 
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carlaisle

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The floor framing isn't really a big deal for you. Just add intermediate supports (piers) between the ground and joists to suit your wants/needs. I wouldn't want to park your mower on a floor with joists at 24" centers without first investigating the construction of the floor structure. If you decide to buy a kit or prebuilt, tell them what you plan to park on it and get their written confirmation that is okay by them and will not void or otherwise negatively impact the warranty or service life.
 
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67King

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You said, "no concrete," I had a concrete pad poured......

This is our last house. Bought the property 4 years ago, 1.5 years in architectural cycle, 2.5 years building. We had issues that delayed it, but we're on the lake, have 2 acres, over 300' of shoreline, blah, blah, blah. So we plan to live here until we die, or are somehow physically unable. House was designed so that we can live in it until old age (upstairs level on its own breaker, water heater, and HVAC, and worst case, there is room for an elevator in the middle of the staircase).

Which is all to say that at some point, I likely won't be using or needing all of the stuff that is going in the shed. Most of my neighbors don't do their own lawncare. Or I may want to move it if I don't like where I'm planning on putting it, though that's not the plan. But I don't want to permanently tie the lot to a pad for a shed that may not be here forever. If I could put it down by the lake in a corner of the property, I'd pour a pad and be good with it. But we can't erect a structure there, so I'm stuck with the sideyard.
 
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bdbecker

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Lol... I'm glad I inspired you not to build a shed? (just joking...)

It's worth pointing out that there are a lot of factors in my particular case that have stretched the project out so long. I work full time, have two young kids, am building it essentially on my own during weekends where I might only be able to spend a half-day working on it, have never built a shed before, and have weather to contend with.

If I could do it over again, I would have taken a week off work and recruited my Dad and/or Brother to give me a hand. They are both much more familiar with construction than I am. Where I've had to think through problems and do some research when I hit a snag, they'd likely know the answer because they've done it before. Having an extra set of hands throughout the process would significantly speed things up as well.

If you've got someone you could rope into helping you out, you could easily knock the project out in a week's time, assuming you have that flexibility.
 

Notgrownup

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I’m building one from a kit I got delivered last night. $2500 barn style , metal roofing and T111 paneling. 12x16 . Imma set it up on 3 16’4x4 skids.like the one attached, there will be some storage shelves in the ceilings on both ends.
 

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67King

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If you've got someone you could rope into helping you out, you could easily knock the project out in a week's time, assuming you have that flexibility.

That's one of the issues. Just moved so I don't really know anyone nearby, certainly not enough to rope into this. My father passed away several years ago, father-in-law is 81, so even though he is knowledgeable, he shouldn't be doing this....and he lives 4 hours away. I've done enough stuff to be able to (multiple decks of different sizes and designs mostly), but getting a hand is an issue. My son is 16, and while I'd love to say he is able to help me.......it would take a full time supervisor to ride him to actually help, because if he is not actively engaged, he is watching his phone, and utterly incapable of observing, and stepping in without being told EXACTLY what to do. I used to joke when he was younger and played soccer that you could tell where he was playing because there was no more clover left in that area. I'm sure we'll get there one day, but we are not there, yet.

Will be building a solar awning carport this Summer, and a dock this Fall and Winter, and he's going to learn real fast about being a bit more assertive in assisting.

I'm semi-retired, but have so much still to do since moving in that just getting all the $#!+ that is sitting around in a location would be a major help to me. So the time to build a shed is really the deterrence. And yeah, I scrolled through a little of yours and thought that I may end up having it take WAY longer than I expected.
 

manwithtools

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I had one for three years, 2 x 6 on 12" centers, 3/4" Advantech flooring, 12' x 24'. I parked a Kubota ZD1211 mower ~1800 lbs and a BMW Z4 ~ 3500 lbs in it with no problems whatsoever. in 2023, it was around $7800 with a 8 foot wide roll up door and man door and one window.

No site work, that was all on me and fortunately the area was fairly flat so no work was required.
 
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dcg9381

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This is our last house. Bought the property 4 years ago, 1.5 years in architectural cycle, 2.5 years building. We had issues that delayed it, but we're on the lake, have 2 acres, over 300' of shoreline, blah, blah, blah. So we plan to live here until we die, or are somehow physically unable. House was designed so that we can live in it until old age (upstairs level on its own breaker, water heater, and HVAC, and worst case, there is room for an elevator in the middle of the staircase).

But I don't want to permanently tie the lot to a pad for a shed that may not be here forever. If I could put it down by the lake in a corner of the property, I'd pour a pad and be good with it. But we can't erect a structure there, so I'm stuck with the sideyard.
Then I'm going "all in" on a shed.

I assume you're opposed to the 8.5'x20' shipping container? For the additional $4k over a $2k container, you can dress it up to look like a doll house if you want. Easy to pull out and even has resale!

I kid a bit (I do own a shipping container, but understand why it might not be right for everyone). It all comes down to what your time is worth...
 

nadogail

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Asking advice on how you should acquire a shed is almost like asking about a girl friend or a prospective wife.
There are so many variables and other considerations involved.
If I had a shortage of cash I would seriously consider using pallets and plywood. The pallets could be modular wall sections that could be sheathed with plywood and also used as the basis for your floor. They don’t look pretty but they are very tough.
I have seen temporary corrals built from pallets and 2X4s enclosing Christmas Tree Lots.
Cheap, Fast and Easy. Look for them at your local Home Depot during the season.
 
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67King

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Sorry for any ambiguity in my original post. Price isn't the top priority, so I'm not considering using scraps and piecing it together. I don't want to spend a ton of money, but when I say that I mean I don't want to just throw a ton of money at it. Not saying I'm trying to be cheap. I'd like for this to look nice, and at least match the aesthetic of the house a little. Both Just_Steve and notgrownup's examples look pretty much in line. No frills, but the doors look nice, I can paint it in the same way our house is painted.

I'd like to be able to turn the big mower around inside if I need to. It is 8' long so the shed needs to be 10' wide. And I'd go even shorter (14.....maybe even 12), but I'm afraid I'd have trouble finding spots for my smaller mower (Toro SS42), the tiller, DR brush walk behind trimmer, pressure washer, etc. But 20' long is going to start impeding the side deck (can't be seen) where I have my grill stuff set up. And while it is silly to have two mowers, I'll eventually have a Zoysia front yard, with teh bulk of the acreage being covered with clover. Since I have both mowers, I'd ratehr just devote each one to the ground cover type, and not risk contaminating the Zoysia.

It is a pretty nice house, don't want the shed to look bad next to it. Unfortunately, I don't have a great place to put it where it would not be visible It is going to the right of the house as seen from the street (house's left). It'll be set back about 15 feet from the edge of the upstairs garage. I won't do the Hardi on this, but the vertical siding will be close enough.

Basically I was trying to find out from folks who have done kits if that saves them time, what's the cost difference, how much time a ground up from design takes, etc. Was fully prepared to hear no one say to buy an already built one. But that's sort of how I'm leaning.
 

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thammel

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I have a 12x16 shed. Made by the amish but perfectly matches my house siding, roof, etc. I had a concrete base poured and I tied the shed to the base with simpson ties. Ran electricity to it. I have the following in it and it's pretty crammed: deere x758 tractor with grass catcher, a front end loader attachment for the tractor, deere snowblower attachment for the tractor, pressure washer, small electric mower, gas cans for the equipment, 2 shelves, backpack blower, string trimmer, all my yard tools, and in the winter I put my folding 4x8 trailer in there. There's no way I could ever turn my tractor around in there. Of course, I wish it was bigger!!

I bought this when I was working full time. In retirement I would definitely have built this myself and gone a bit larger. The total cost for pad and shed was probably about 7500. Could definitely build it for less than this.

Tom
 

DGersic

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I built my own shed. Drew up some basic plans, it’s just four walls with 2x4 studs on 16” centers. I didn’t pour a pad, I drilled holes and set 4x4 posts in conrete to support and anchor the shed. Floor is 3/4” plywood over 2x6 joists, again on 16” centers. T1-11 siding covers the outside walls, and some plywood and shingles take care of the roof.

It’s just a shed, not rocket surgery.

Buy one if you want, or build it. Mine took a couple of weekends, working by myself. A second person would have made some things faster.
 

75gmck25

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It sounds like you have already done your HOA and permit research, but you might make an extra check.

In my AHJ they have significantly different rules for a shed installed on a concrete pad vs. one on block piers. Using the block piers option is much more flexible about location (nearly zero lot line, etc.), but more restrictive about size, since with no concrete pad its considered to be non-permanent and moveable. YMMV
 

Just_Steve

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The shed I posted above sits next to the house the cream color matches my siding and the blue trim matches my shutters, the blue roof is lighter than my deep blue shingle roof. I needed it to look like it belongs as it's very exposed in my side yard.
Screenshot 2026-06-11 at 9.03.29 AM.png
 

HogDude

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My buddy's HOA required a "moveable" shed. So he went with Tuff Shed. He is pleased with it. Me? Not so much. But then I'm in the camp of "If you want something done right, do it yourself". Or something like that. Dimensions, materials, location of windows/doors, in process adjustments and a bunch of stuff I'm not aware of. Lastly, You built it yourself. Mine would have a TV and heat for those winter time cigars. But that's just me.
 
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67King

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Do you NEED to have the big mower inside? Would a 'lighter' duty shed and a lean-to for the mower work?

You know, that's actually a really freaking good idea. I could absolutely do that. That's a REALLY, REALLY good idea. Could have the shed sit street side, and the Deere on the lake side. Far enough up from the lake, and covered, so it won't really look that noticeable. That makes the shed smaller and less expensive, virtually eliminates any grading work I'd need to do, eliminates any floor reinforcement. And not having to deal with getting it in and out alleviates some of the paint points of needing such a big door. Also helps keep the setback to the property line easier.
 

WisJim

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My son in Pueblo, CO, had a TuffShed built for his back yard storage. We were there visiting when he ordered it and when he looked at a few other options, and when it was delivered and set up. It came as panelized sections, which was good because of limited access to his back yard, and two guys got it 90% done in one work day, and one fellow finished up the next day. The galvanized floor framing looks substantial but I don't have details at hand. It was all painted but they recommended a second coat after it all set up and they supply 2 pails of paint (siding and trim colors) and rollers and brushes. He's happy with it and I was impressed with the construction. Some of the other places made sheds that were obviously of lesser quality.
 

pembol

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It sounds like this needs to be in a fairly prominent location relative to your beautiful new house. In which case I would for sure build a nicer looking shed - not the hokey mini-barn kits/prefab options. The premade ones look just OK on the day they are delivered and get progressively worse from there.

I am in a similar situation, built a new house, and really need to build a shed to move the garden stuff out of the garage. However the shed is going to be a prominent feature of my backyard, so I want it to match the style and be of a similar quality as the rest of the construction, not some home depot special. I am actually looking forward to the project and have some sketches modeled up in CAD. Just need to have a good block to time to actually build the thing.
 

JuncleJohn

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I wouldn’t even consider a shed that large and not have a concrete floor. Especially with lawn equipment as heavy as you stated. Something else to consider is critters making their home underneath.

Just my opinion.

John
 

thammel

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I wouldn’t even consider a shed that large and not have a concrete floor. Especially with lawn equipment as heavy as you stated. Something else to consider is critters making their home underneath.

Just my opinion.

John
My shed was pre-built but sits on a full concrete slab. What I did to keep critters out was staple wire mesh all around the base. This works. I keep a 1500 lb tractor inside. No problems with the floor strength.
 

mike93lx

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I prefer to build for the higher quality and savings. I priced a delivered option for my recent 16x16 and it would have been 15-20k for something I did for 6k in materials....


And months of work
 
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67King

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I wouldn’t even consider a shed that large and not have a concrete floor. Especially with lawn equipment as heavy as you stated. Something else to consider is critters making their home underneath.

Just my opinion.

John

Normally I would, but like I said, at some point, I'll be too old to do the maintenance, and won't need the stuff, and I will likley want to 86 the shed. If I could put it in a back corner of our property, not a problem. But I can't because it is below the elevation TVA will allow improvements to be made it, relative to the lake level. So my only real option is beside the house. And I just can't swallow the notion of a concrete pad there.

Animals is a concern, skunks in particular. I am thinking I will likely build up pavers around the perimeter to alleviate that. May even build up a small stone veneer to match the house.

But I'm leaning pretty heavily right now on a 10x10 for the smaller stuff, and extending teh roof an additional 6' or so, and parking the big mower there. That way I don't have to deal with any sort of grading, it won't be as big of a shed, and the Tuffshed is $4100, rather than $6650. I have some left over timbers and tongue and groove I could actually use to make the awning with that would match the pergolas and porches on the house.

Looked at another pre-constructed shed company. As corny as the name is, Tuffsheds are a LOT better built. Much tighter tolerances, better hinges, latches, floors, etc. After seeing the other ones, I don't think I'd buy a DIY kit, either.
 

mschoo92

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You mentioned ability to move the shed down the road, one thing to keep in mind is whether a company will move a tuff shed for you; grain of salt, I don’t have any firsthand experience with this but when I was looking into tuffshed apparently some movers won’t move them - something to do with the steel floor and possible twisting I think.

I’m sure if only moving it on the property it wouldn’t be a big issue but you may want to look into it ahead of time. Good luck!
 
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67King

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You mentioned ability to move the shed down the road, one thing to keep in mind is whether a company will move a tuff shed for you; grain of salt, I don’t have any firsthand experience with this but when I was looking into tuffshed apparently some movers won’t move them - something to do with the steel floor and possible twisting I think.

I’m sure if only moving it on the property it wouldn’t be a big issue but you may want to look into it ahead of time. Good luck!

Yeah, sorry that was ambiguous. I just mean final positioning. Where I put it will be a compromise. I'd like it set back from te front of the house, but the property line isn't parallel, so it'd be getting "pinched" and then come into play with a small porch for my grill off that side. So I may decide I'd like it 10' in one direction or the other.
 
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